Steering Rack Q

[AirmanPika]

Quick question regarding the steering rack. Does the Steering Column need to be removed to separate it from the rack? I was considering a steering rack replacement while on leave in the states in a couple weeks but don't feel like doing it if I need to yank the steering column out too.

[jbreeden]

No, you don't need to take the whole steering column out, it disconnects from the rack so you can pull the rack out.

[Jacko]

I'm sure to be corrected if wrong but I'm pretty sure the steering column doesn't need to be removed. I recall replacing the rack on 4915 and if I removed the steering column it's such a PITA I'd remember it.

[TTait]

No, but if you need a steering bushing you should think about doing that at the same time. If you do the bushing too it might be easier to pull the rack, but you don't have to.

The rack reads as a pretty straightforward swap, but be wary of the tough spots:

Collapsing the intermediate shaft to get it off the rack can be tough - if you can start soaking it with pb blaster or wd40 a few days before to help with that part. Just remove the access cover and give it a shot every day for a few days beforehand - it may help.

you may need a pickle fork to get the tie rod ends loose. One of mine was so stubborn that when it finally did pop loose I was pushing so hard my face went into the fender and I had a black eye for 3 days. fortunately the fender was stronger than my face though.

I had a heck of a time getting the rubber bushings for the rack in place on the new rack. The second time I had to replace it I just paid a pro even though I knew the two items above would not be a problem that time around - it was that bad. (tips anyone?)

make sure you are installing good parts - I purchased a rebuilt rack and it had 15 degrees of slop in it - couldn't tell till it was in the car (I was NOT happy). I complained and got a replacement - (paid to put that one in and even after 5k miles its still way way too tight). I buy new now. I have a brand new one in the garage for the second car but the bushing thing above was such a pain that 2 years later I still have not put it in - and I may put it in the first car as the overly tight rack is a piece of junk as it turns out. My car with an 80k mile rack still has a better feel than the rebuilt one - so I do nothing for now.

Also watch out for incorrect tie rid ends - the ones I got aftermarket from a reputable vendor are longer than stock - the only way to get them to align properly was to remove the locking nut and spin them all the way down the available thread - that sucked. Then with no locking nut the mechanic had to tack weld them to the tie rods to keep them from backing out. I was not a happy camper and still feel like that whole rebuilt rack/non standard tie rod adventure was one of the worst maintenance experiences I'v ever had (had to do it twice, and the second time still had rotten results).

If you are pressing in a new busing too (half the work is done already when you pull the collapsable shaft) then make sure you have the right kit of parts to press the new one in place.

The steering column does not need to come out at all to replace the rack, and its helpful but not required when doing the bushing. Removing the rack is likely the easiest part of the all of it, especially if you can get a helper for 5 minutes when pulling it out and putting it back. Its just 2 wiring plugs and 2 bolts IIRC. I just fear that if that is the part you are worried about, you may be underestimating the job overall.

Good luck! Don't let me bum you out too much - I just had a conflagration of bad luck that made it all a pain in the butt Learn from my pain and find happiness.

Tom
10902 (original rack - minimal play at 80k miles)
03238 (%$@^%# rack that I would like to run over with a freight train but I don't want to hassle with taking it out again)

[outatym2001]

Here are some pictures I took of when I installed my newly remanufactured steering rack back in March, 2008.
I added words to the pics to describe what is there.
I was going to say what TTait said already and I also replaced the Steering Column Bushing at the same time. My original Bushing was worn and partially falling apart so I just cut it out.

I disconnected and removed the all the Universal Joints and then pushed on the Steering Column shaft from the wheel well area and pushed the shaft through the firewall until it cleared the hole for the new Bushing.. I hated installing that new Bushing. It’s larger than the hole and it takes and incredible amount of force to push it through.

P.S. I bought the newly remanufactured rack from DMC Northwest (they got it from DMC Houston) on October 13, 2007 and it comes with brand new tie rod ends on either side.
Well, I had to buy two new tie rod ends on January 3, 2011 since the alignment shop found too much slop in the tie rods and would not do an alignment until they were replaced.

[DMCH James]

The racks are now sold with the new rubber bushings, so you just re-use the metal brackets.

James

[nullset]

I'm looking to replace the steering rack on my daily driver.

There's very little steering response within the center (with the wheels straight ahead) within ~30 degrees. Sean looked at it and thinks it's a worn pinion gear.

Which is considered to be a better option? John's rack or Houstons?

Have the problems with Houston's tie rod ends been fixed? Is Johns rack the same as factory? If my pinion gear is worn, will I get the core back from either of them?

Advice and experience are appreciated!

--buddy

[nullset]

Have the problems with Houston's tie rod ends been fixed? Is Johns rack the same as factory? If my pinion gear is worn, will I get the core back from either of them?


Apparently I misread. I was thinking of the ball joint problems.

Does anyone else have any opinions of Special T's steering racks vs DMCH's?

So far, DMCH is winning.

--buddy

[Patrick C]

I'm looking to replace the steering rack on my daily driver.

There's very little steering response within the center (with the wheels straight ahead) within ~30 degrees. Sean looked at it and thinks it's a worn pinion gear.


I'm currently having the same issue on my 50,000 mile rack...what is the general consensus? How are the DMCH racks holding up now that they've been out for a few years?

[nullset]

I'm currently having the same issue on my 50,000 mile rack...what is the general consensus? How are the DMCH racks holding up now that they've been out for a few years?

I can tell you this - the rack I replaced came from Hervey and was less than 3 years old / had MAYBE 20,000 miles on it.

Hervey rebuilds the racks with old pinion cores and reshims them. DMCH is selling new racks.

I'd highly recommend DMCH's racks over Hervey's, but I may be a little bit biased (I've had very poor experiences with most of Hervey's parts, not just this one)

--buddy