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opethmike
06-18-2011, 09:58 PM
I need to take the rear driver's side spring/shock assembly off to fix a knackered body bolt captive nut. I would like to hear some recommendations on a good set of spring compressors to use.

Ozzie
06-18-2011, 10:31 PM
Mike I just used the cheapo Harbor Freight ones -- and a short chain with an adjustable link as a safety measure, around the spring.

Only issue I had with these compressors were that the bolts were very long, so there are only a few (by trial and error) positions that they work in, and in my case I wound up having them not 180 degrees apart. If I have to go back in there ever again, I'll cut those bolts.

I hear the free rental ones at AutoZone may be a notch better than the HF ones, but they are the same type of compressors.

Good luck, be safe.

tgraham
06-18-2011, 10:42 PM
I recommend using a scissor-style compressor as opposed to the two-piece units. And if you have an impact wrench to use with it, it gets the job done quickly. I use an OTC compressor - it wasn't the cheapest option, but it's a sturdy tool. This is one thing in particular that I didn't want to cheap out on... compressed springs are pretty scary (and potentially lethal). This one has bars to lock the compressor onto the springs for one extra layer of protection.

FWIW, it's a lot easier to remove/install lowered springs - less spring to compress! And the rear is easier than the front, IMO.

Travis

opethmike
06-18-2011, 10:44 PM
That's nice to hear; seeing as I am removing a rear spring, and it is a lowered spring!

DMage
06-18-2011, 10:44 PM
I tried a clamshell but was unable to get it to fit and compress the springs enough. The harbor freight ones are dangerous as I had one shift on me when I was working on my suspension upgrade, however they are good to use as a helper to get the spring compressed - with the bolts cut as Ozzie recommended. The rental units you can get at autozone are the best I used as they have a wide grasp on the springs at the top and at the bottom, and they are very heavy duty.

tgraham
06-18-2011, 10:52 PM
I tried a clamshell but was unable to get it to fit and compress the springs enough.

It definitely took some trial and error on the first round to find the sweet spot, but mine works just fine on the DeLorean (and the arms are 180 degrees apart). Those spring towers sure do get in the way.

Having done this both ways, it's a LOT easier when the body is off of the frame!

Travis

TTait
06-19-2011, 02:19 AM
http://www.harborfreight.com/single-action-strut-spring-compressor-43753.html

I used this one - it took about 5 minutes to get positioned properly - I have also tried the other style - which I could never aligned well.

Ozzie
06-19-2011, 10:04 AM
http://www.harborfreight.com/single-action-strut-spring-compressor-43753.html

I used this one - it took about 5 minutes to get positioned properly - I have also tried the other style - which I could never aligned well.


Cool. Those worked well on both front and rear springs?

TTait
06-19-2011, 12:58 PM
They work on the rear, have not tried the front. The shocks on the front can be swapped without a spring compressor if that's what your up to.

Ozzie
06-19-2011, 01:06 PM
They work on the rear, have not tried the front. The shocks on the front can be swapped without a spring compressor if that's what your up to.

Really? That'd be awesome, I had never head that before.
I do have a swap in the fronts planned for sometime this year.

TTait
06-19-2011, 11:42 PM
yeah, really easy. (for front shocks only!) Put the car up on jackstands, remove the wheel and then put a floor jack under the hub, but where you can still drop the shock out. Compress the spring with the floor jack enough so that the shock just starts to compress, and then remove the bolt at the bottom, then the nuts at the top and drop out the shock. Slide the new shock in, install the top nut and the jamb nut, and the shock will probably be sticking out of the bottom of the assembly a bit. carefully lower the jack until the lower bolt goes thru - torque it down. Done. If nothing is seized you can do a front wheel in less than 15 minutes.

Rear shocks you need a spring compressor and patience.

thegovernor9912
06-21-2011, 12:57 PM
yeah, really easy. (for front shocks only!) Put the car up on jackstands, remove the wheel and then put a floor jack under the hub, but where you can still drop the shock out. Compress the spring with the floor jack enough so that the shock just starts to compress, and then remove the bolt at the bottom, then the nuts at the top and drop out the shock. Slide the new shock in, install the top nut and the jamb nut, and the shock will probably be sticking out of the bottom of the assembly a bit. carefully lower the jack until the lower bolt goes thru - torque it down. Done. If nothing is seized you can do a front wheel in less than 15 minutes.

Rear shocks you need a spring compressor and patience.

You don't need the jack to change the front shocks. If you follow the procedure the manual states, and do NOT seperate the ball joint from the spindle, then the spring will be held in place as you change the shock.

The rear shocks you can change without spring compressors and using a jack.

If you need spring compressors I would suggest the set that Sears Craftsman sells. They are much easier to fit in the front then the scissor style, are made much sturdier than the harbor freight ones, have a lifetime warranty and the bolts are shorter than the autozone ones.

TTait
06-21-2011, 11:13 PM
The rear shocks you can change without spring compressors and using a jack.

Now you have my attention! How?

Grover
06-22-2011, 12:35 AM
Now you have my attention! How?

Carefully, as a slipped jack under spring tension can hurt a knee cap quiet a bit :wrenchin:. I know there are a few write ups out there, if one isn't posted I will find the one I have and repost it.

Basically you put a floor jack on top of towels to stop it from sliding. Remove top nut, slowly lower jack. The rear spring is not under a GREAT amount of pressure. The trick is lining up the bottom shock hole to the link bolt so that it is even when the jack is jacked up.

TTait
06-22-2011, 01:36 AM
Jinkies Scoob... I was afraid you were gonna say that. That sounds pretty scary - I'd love to see a full write up. What happens with the lower spring cup, do you grab the spring with the jack one or two coils above the cup?

Hmmm -

OK - I'm back now. Sounds like someone (Hervey?) needs to build something like this...

Jack up the rear, remove the wheel. Raise or lower with a jack so that the two lowest exposed coils are at the same height as the support arms. Slide the support into place. Lower the car 1" so the coils are just inside the support arm cups. Insert two safety bolts or pins, Then lower the jack a bit more until the rear shock just starts to compress - swap it out like the front...

Viola!

So, who's going to build it? It would be a nice piece to have one for every club for tech days, and one for each service center at least. John could probably sell a few of them, or have one or two to loan out free (U pay R/T shipping) with every set of rear shocks sold...


By the way, not being a jillionaire, I cannot recommend that anyone actually attempt to build or use such a device, and if they did do so it would be entirely at their own risk.

thegovernor9912
06-22-2011, 10:12 AM
It sounds scarier then it is. That said a little common sense goes a long way in making sure you are doing this in a safe way.

If you are concerned doing it this way, just use the spring compressors, You can use either style on the back because you don't have the cleareance issues you have on the front

TTait
06-22-2011, 11:46 AM
I was not happy with standard spring compressors, its still difficult to get them 180 degrees apart and get enough compression. In my experience I got them about 150 degrees apart, but the spring bent too much for proper re-installation, so I had to take the clamps off and realign them - which took a few tries to get right and still wasn't great.

I understand its a matter of experience to get a good compromise in positioning them, and that subtle variations between clamps allows them positioning to be a bit better or a bit worse. Most owners won't have to deal with it more than once every 10 years, so its hard to get good at it.

The clamshell style worked a lot better for me on the rears.