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bruscreen
08-26-2012, 10:22 PM
I'm doing a brake job, and my front wheel bearings came apart when I pulled the rotors. I knew this was coming based on previous threads, and have new bearings already pressed into the rotors and ready to go.

What I wasn't expecting was that the race that stayed on the shaft would be so stubborn. I've spent half an hour banging on it already. Any tips for getting it off the shaft?

DMCMW Dave
08-26-2012, 10:29 PM
What I wasn't expecting was that the race that stayed on the shaft would be so stubborn. I've spent half an hour banging on it already. Any tips for getting it off the shaft?

Heat it up a bit;

if that doesn't work:

Notch it with a dremel grinder as far as you can without hitting the spindle, then crack it with a chisel.

bruscreen
08-26-2012, 11:29 PM
I'm not too comfortable with applying heat, especially since I've already applied flammable lubricants. Sounds like a great opportunity to break out my Dremel. Something to look forward to after work this week.

Tillsy
08-27-2012, 03:31 AM
I'm not too comfortable with applying heat, especially since I've already applied flammable lubricants. Sounds like a great opportunity to break out my Dremel. Something to look forward to after work this week.

You sure the lubricants themselves are flammable, rather than the propellant?

I tried all end of lubricants on my transmission plugs but then took a blow torch to it and got them unstuck - cans said highly flammable but it was the gas not liquid. Kept the extinguisher within reach but no fire.

David T
08-27-2012, 07:25 PM
Wipe it off and keep a wet rag handy, once you see a little flame it will all be burnt off. Heat is great for getting things apart. Grinding and chiseling is a lot of work and you take the chance of damaging the spindle.
David Teitelbaum

bruscreen
08-27-2012, 10:37 PM
Fire and I don't get along well. I know my limits. I got some new blades for the dremel and cut the rest of the bearings off. One had to crack all the way before it let loose, the other started turning once it was notched enough to get a bite with the chisel. New bearings, turned rotors, and rebuilt calipers are in place on the front and hooked up via new hoses.

I also picked up some brake fluid today. Does anybody know why the Delorean calls for DOT 4? The clerk at Napa asked if I was sure it was the right type, and what kind of car it was, but he dismissed it as just Deloreans being weird.

AirmanPika
08-27-2012, 11:07 PM
DOT 4 should be fine as far as I know. I'm using a DOT 3/4 certified fluid myself for my own brake job. I also made sure to order front bearings for when I hit the front brakes/rotors next week :)

jawn101
08-27-2012, 11:15 PM
It has been recommended by a lot of VERY trustworthy people here on the forum that you not screw around with brake fluid and seek out the Castrol GT/LMA. I have heard horror stories from plenty of places with standard/cheap DOT 4 fluid interacting badly with the natural rubber seals in the brake system. The GT/LMA doesn't command much of a premium price and in my opinion is worth the few dollar investment in what is arguably the most important safety system in the car. Brakes need to work. Everything else can be fixed.

GT/LMA is available on Amazon, or I got mine locally at Orchard Supply Hardware.

AirmanPika
08-27-2012, 11:21 PM
Or one would convert to DOT 5...but that's by no means an easy feat with all the purging and replacement of rubber parts you have to do before even thinking about it. I'm kinda tempted to do it at some point having seen the advantages of the stuff (like cars that have used it for 30 years and simply needed topped off over the years if even that). Of course there are some disadvantages too. Dunno if there are any delorean specific issues that would prevent DOT5.

Morpheus
08-28-2012, 10:56 AM
I used DOT 3/4 Synthetic in all of my cars, D included. It's great stuff.

As long as you are methodical about changing it every 2 years, you can probably go with either option.

DMCMW Dave
08-28-2012, 11:13 AM
I used DOT 3/4 Synthetic in all of my cars, D included. It's great stuff.

As long as you are methodical about changing it every 2 years, you can probably go with either option.

DOT 3 vs DOT 4 refers to a temperature specification. Apparently the folks at Lotus wanted the higher temperature stuff. It is DOT 4 in the clutch so that you use the same fluid in both.

The more common concern voiced is compatibility of Castrol vs. the others with respect to the makup of the rubber seals in the system. I can't say that I've done some kind of scientific test of Castrol vs some other brake fluid. I personally would avoid DOT 5, the benefits vs the issues are not worth it, and it is not a maintenance-free as people seem to think. A topic for another thread.

I agree that the best thing you can do for the brake system is change the fluid more often than every 10 years. . . .every 2-4 is good depending on your climate. Whatever kind you use.

bruscreen
08-28-2012, 01:23 PM
DOT 3 vs DOT 4 refers to a temperature specification. Apparently the folks at Lotus wanted the higher temperature stuff. It is DOT 4 in the clutch so that you use the same fluid in both.

Thanks, that's what I really wanted to know, for now. As to brands and frequency of replacement, I haven't studied prior threads yet. Maybe when I have, I can post an educated question in a new thread and see how polarized this group can be. :deviltail:

gulwng3
03-28-2013, 03:14 PM
I personally would avoid DOT 5, the benefits vs the issues are not worth it, and it is not a maintenance-free as people seem to think. A topic for another thread.

I've got new SS brake lines, new repacked calipers, new rotors, and new master cylinder so I thought it would be a good time to flush out the DOT 4 and switch to DOT 5 (based on the recommendation of the guy who sold me the parts and my mechanic). Has anyone tried DOT 5 and do you like it?

Andy

jawn101
03-28-2013, 03:52 PM
I've got new SS brake lines, new repacked calipers, new rotors, and new master cylinder so I thought it would be a good time to flush out the DOT 4 and switch to DOT 5 (based on the recommendation of the guy who sold me the parts and my mechanic). Has anyone tried DOT 5 and do you like it?

Andy

Dave is a better source of info than anyone else on topics like this. If he says it isn't worth it then I think everyone here would agree with him. Plus I believe I heard (but this is of course anecdotal) that DOT5 isn't compatible with the seals in the master cyl. Anyone with info to support or refute that is welcome to since I don't remember where or when I heard that.

David T
03-28-2013, 10:42 PM
Using DOT 5, the problem is not compatability. That said, to use DOT 5 you have to completely remove any trace of Dot 4 because although the seals can tolerate DOT 5, DOT 5 cannot tolerate ANY Dot 4. To do that requires a complete tear-down and rebuild of the brake system, not just a quick flush. Next is the problem of compressibility. Dot 5, although it is a liquid, contains tiny air bubbles and they make it compressible. That makes the pedal soft and because it never stops,if you push hard enough, it will go to the floor. Finally, water will not mix with Dot 5. While that sounds like a good thing, it is not. The water will collect in the lowest places in the system and when you bleed or flush you are always doing it from the top so you never get the water out. Eventually the water rots wherever it is and destroys the system. At least with DOT 4 the water is adsorbed into the fluid and when you flush it you remove the water. That is why you flush the system, to get rid of the water (which you never can with DOT 5). Dot 5 is also expensive. The ONLY reason you would ever consider using DOT 5 (besides a manufacturers requirement) is to have a much higher boiling point. DOT 4 is already sufficient, there is no need to go to DOT 5. In fact, part of the problem using DOT 4 is that it never gets hot enough. If it did then the water would vaporize out and the fluid would last that much longer. It has been noticed for a long time British cars generally seem to have a problem with brake fluid and just about all shops that service any British car will recommend Castrol DOT 4. It seems Castrol has repackaged their fluid. They no longer call it GTLMA. It is now referred to as synthetic and they also changed the bottle. It is now black plastic. I have been told it is the same fluid, just repackaged. I also suspect any good DOT 4 brake fluid would be OK as long as you flush it every other year. Since Castrol doesn't cost any more than any other, try to use it if you an find it. BTW DOT 5 is silicone based, not petroleum based. DOT 4 is hygroscopic which means it adsorbs water (moisture) from the air. Heating it vaporizes the moisture and gets it out of the fluid or just replacing the fluid gets rid of the water. When DOT 4 adsorbs too much water it turns acidic and attacks the metal in the brake system causing the pitting which ruins the seals and makes the system leak or makes the pistons get stuck.
David Teitelbaum

sdg3205
04-13-2013, 12:17 AM
I have the sleeve of the old bearing still stuck in the hub. How do I get this out?

I've tried using a large socket with a hammer. It's soaking with PB blaster, not that it will do any good.

18144

bruscreen
04-15-2013, 09:09 PM
I took mine to a machine shop with a press, had them get the old bearing out and press the new one in. Getting ready to do the same with the rears.

bruscreen
04-15-2013, 09:17 PM
I used DOT 3/4 Synthetic in all of my cars, D included. It's great stuff.

As long as you are methodical about changing it every 2 years, you can probably go with either option.

I wish mine would have stayed in the system for two years, but it only lasted six months. Decided to make a break for it, past the rear seal in the MC.