Custom Engine Upgrade

[Grover]

For awhile I had been toying with the idea of upgrading the motor. The idea first started out with a Stage II from DMCH, then I thought about doing something custom with some of the parts from Ed Uding (High Compression Pistons), etc, etc.

When I finally decided to go ahead and do the motor upgrade, the attractive package at the time was the DPI Spec II package, but I still wanted to add some custom flair to it, and I wanted to do the work myself in order to learn all that I could about the motor. So, with the idea, motive, and time to do the work, I went ahead and did the drive-train upgrade with the help of two very generous DMA members.

First, a general list of the parts (many other new parts and while-you-are-in-there parts happened along the way):
High-Compression Pistons from Ed Uding in Europe (The DPI over-sized high compression pistons were on back order)
Aggressive Cams from DPI (the most aggressive they offer)
Port and Polished Heads from DPI
UK Stainless Polished Exhaust with Test Pipes
Fully balanced rotating assembly
Polished Crankshaft
Re-surfaced Flywheel
Re-built Transmission from PJ Grady (The car has never shifted better)
Powder coated parts
Yellow Zinc Plated brackets, etc (Done through DeLorean MidWest)

A picture of some of the new parts:
13008
Honed cylinder liners
High Compression Pistons
Balanced and polished crankshaft
Cleaned up block
Blasted engine cradle
Clutch Kit
Resurfaced flywheel

Powder coated parts:
13035
13036

UK Stainless Steel Exhaust:
13037


So, with an idea of the parts I wanted to use, it was time to remove the motor.
13009
13012
13010
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With the motor out of the car, it was time to disassemble the motor.
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13015
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Upon taking the motor apart, a few things were found.
1.) My clutch was so heavy, and the squeal/squeak I would have was found. The pilot bearing was practically rusted to the point in which it would not spin, and the pressure plate and clutch were just about rusted together. No wonder the clutch pedal was so heavy. We also found a mud-bee nest between the trans and the motor. The clutch fork boot was folded in towards the clutch, allowing water and insects into the bell housing.

With the motor out of the car, it was time to clean the frame and repair frame rust.
Frame after the motor was removed:
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Frame after using Simple Green, a brush, and a power washer:
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Engine cradle rust that was ground away and POR-15ed
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Next it was time to clean and paint the engine bay with SEM Trim Black.
Masking the engine bay for painting:
13022
Painting complete:
13021

There was alot of painting of parts that happened throughout this project, here are two more. The rear louvre and the back fiberglass piece of the rear fascia.
Before:
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After:
13023
Repainted louvre:
13024

Next up was to start putting the motor back together. I first started by using POR-15 and Engine Enamel to paint the Valley of Death.
13026

After that, it was time to start putting the crankshaft back in and to start installing the pistons.
Installing the main bearings:
13028

First piston installed:
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Pistons installed:
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Pistons installed:
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Once the pistons were in place it was time to put the heads back onto the car.
First head installed:
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First head installed:
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Both heads installed:
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Test of how the new powder coated valve covers will look:
13031


After putting the time chains and gears back on, it was time to install the powder coated oil pan, along with the stainless hardware from DPI.
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The next step was to install the clutch and then the transmission, allowing for it to be put back into the car as one piece.
Flywheel installed:
13040
Clutch installed:
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Transmission bolted up to the motor:
13038

Now it was time to drop the motor and the transmission back into the car.
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After that it was time to put everything back together. Everything was original to the car, blasted and powder coated except for the Air Metering Unit. I exchanged mine for a refurbished unit from DPI. Truly a piece of art as it was freshly painted, new gaskets and hardware, and stainless steel brackets/throttle linkage.
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A side project that came out of this was to replace my gas tank. Since I got the car I noticed that the tank has some deep cracks in it. Not wanting to take the chance, I decided to replace it. It's a good thing that I did, since it didn't take much more pressure for the cracks to open up when the tank was removed.
Before removing:
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Old tank and fuel setup removed:
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Crack in original tank:
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Another crack in original tank:
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New tank from DeLorean Florida (picked it up while on vacation)
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New tank installed and all in one fuel pump/sender installed
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I also decided to replace the fuel filler as it was rusty. When removing the old tank I found bits of paper towel in the tank and in the fuel filter. There were also bits of rust in the old tank, and I could see the scrape marks from the fuel filler. Not wanting to contaminate my new fuel system I replaced the original one with one from Houston.
Rusty and gross:
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Shiny and new:
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Lastly, the fuel tank closing plate was ground down and POR-15 was used to clean up some of the rust from an old Brake Master Cylinder leak.
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Next post: Engine start up and driving/revving.

After having the car back and running for a little under a week, I must say, the car is nothing but pure fun to drive. With the cam shafts, 4500 RPM to 7000 RPM is just plain awesome. Once you hit 4500 RPM there is a big kick/push back into your seats eruption from the motor.

A big thank you to Tom and Marc from the DMA, Rob Grady for the awesome Transmission work, Josh at DPI for taking all of my calls and help, Julee at DMC MW for reminding me I put myself on the order list for the new fuel pump/sender combo, and Elvis for the tip on the Idle Computer modification (I increased the idle to help with the aggressive cams, more on this in the next post).

[dmc6960]

Some damn nice stuff right there. Its a thread like this which makes me want to re-post everything about the exact same thing I did to my own engine back in 2009. Congrats!

[Grover]

Some damn nice stuff right there. Its a thread like this which makes me want to re-post everything about the exact same thing I did to my own engine back in 2009. Congrats!

Your old thread is what inspired me! Per our discussions I chose not to lighten the flywheel. Thanks for your tips and information that we discussed before I started the project.

[Kenny_Z]

Very nice. Are we going to get to see and hear it run via a video? I'd love to know what it sounds like.

[Grover]

Very nice. Are we going to get to see and hear it run via a video? I'd love to know what it sounds like.

That's the plan. I have a few videos of it running before it was tuned, but they are on my laptop at home. I will get around to uploading these tomorrow. I also am planning on taking some more videos of it running after the tuning, and also driving. I have a mount for my iphone that I will use so that you can hear what it sounds like all the way to 7000 RPM while driving. =)


For the meantime, if you just CANNOT wait, I made this video on Facebook public just for the time being, until I can reupload it on Youtube.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=856372595472

[Kenny_Z]

It has the right mix of deep exhaust tones with a high revving exotic feel. That is awesome and I am extremely jealous. Very nice work.

[ArthurCaverly]

I'm a little afraid to ask, but are you willing to share an approximate total of what this upgrade cost you? I'm thinking about doing something similar with my car this winter, but haven't done all the research yet, but it seems you have! anyway, looks great and I'm looking forward to seeing the videos too!

Arthur

[Jacko]

This is a great thread, Steve. This is almost exactly what Josh at DPI is doing to 4915 as we speak. I won't get my car back for a few weeks but hearing that video of yours makes the waiting almost unbearable. I would love to have done the work myself as you did but I don't think I'm up to it. I'll leave it to the experts!

Congratulations on a job well done!!

[opethmike]

I'm a little afraid to ask, but are you willing to share an approximate total of what this upgrade cost you? I'm thinking about doing something similar with my car this winter, but haven't done all the research yet, but it seems you have! anyway, looks great and I'm looking forward to seeing the videos too!

Arthur

I have a similar build to Steve's, except where he went with the HC pistons, I went with EFI. For the ported/polished heads, aggressive camshafts, and DPI Spec 1 exhaust, as well as all of the necessary gaskets, seals, o-rings, etc, I spent around four thousand dollars.

[Mike C.]

Nice thread!

[Delorean Industries]

This hasn't been mentioned: Beyond our custom kits listed online we can also contour a package for what individual owners need. Such as in Mike and Steve's situations where they already had items etc.

[opethmike]

This hasn't been mentioned: Beyond our custom kits listed online we can also contour a package for what individual owners need. Such as in Mike and Steve's situations where they already had items etc.

And I'll add that Josh was VERY accommodating with this, and helped me plan my build excellently.

[Grover]

And I'll add that Josh was VERY accommodating with this, and helped me plan my build excellently.

I have to agree with Mike on this. While I did hit a few snags, hiccups, mix-up, etc, Josh was always more than willing to fix any of the issues I had and made sure that he did right by me. He was also just about always available to talk tech. on the phone, especially on weekends (when I did most of the work).

All of the vendors were very helpful during the whole process. So again, a big thank you to Josh at DPI, Dave and Julee (who ensured quick shipping so I had parts for the weekend) at DeLorean MidWest, Ed Uding at DMC Europe, James at DMCH, and Rob Grady at PJ Grady (which btw, after his transmission service he did for me, the car has NEVER shifted better than it does now since I have owned it, he also sold me some uprated Volvo head bolts (my original ones were pitted, as well as some really good used parts for great prices. He also has a louver brace that I bought and love since it involves no hole drilling into the louvers and is pretty much a stealth install).

Another big thank you to the people at Stainless Exhaust (UK), who will probably not see this. But they were friednly and helpful with my order, especially since I was ordering the system with both the CATS and the normal regular pipes. There were a few delays and mix ups, but otherwise they were professional and when it came time for the actual shipping, it arrived to the states VERY quickly.

[Grover]

So back to the original thread topic, the motor.

I should be going to a cruise event tonight which includes 1 free run down the 1/4 mile track. I will enlist the help of someone at the event to take a video of me going down the track, I will also try to get some video from inside the car, though I forgot my mount.

[Morpheus]

Great pics in this thread, I also intend on doing a few tweaks to my motor before putting everything back together.

[opethmike]

If your restoration budget allows for it, I highly recommend DPI's heads/cams/exhaust package. Engine sounds unreal good at idle, and the car actually has something resembling acceleration now.

[Grover]

This Sunday I will be taking part in a Dyno Day in NJ. The Dyno at the shop is a Dynojet. I will post the results and videos of my car Sunday night. There will be a stock car there with me as well, with the only modification being a custom dual exhaust setup.

I also hope to get on a Mustang Dyno at somepoint as well to compare the differences.

[Morpheus]

^Looking forward to the results.

[Grover]

Sadly the dyno shop cancelled the event, the dyno broke down. I will be trying to book a time either tomorrow or Wednesday morning before I leave for Germany. I will keep the thread updated.

[Grover]

Took my car to a track event at Pocono Raceway, North Course for the Exotics Rally Battle of the Beasts event on 4/21/13.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ldtpu39OuiY&feature=youtu.be

The car topped out at 110mph due to an incorrectly installed throttle cable. With my foot pressed to the floor the car only was given 3/4 throttle with no fuel enrichment. I will be fixing this issue and heading back to the track soon to see the results.

I will also post some video and the dyno results from the day before. Sadly, the same problem applied, so please look at the figures and realize I only had 3/4 full throttle and was running lean do to the full throttle switch not engaging.

For those interested, the performance mods done on this car are:
-Forged High Compression Pistons
-Aggresive Fast Camshafts
-Custom Port and Polished Heads with a 1mm Shave
-High Flow Custom Polished Stainless Steel Dual Exhaust
-K&N High Flow Filter with Cold Air Intake
-High Flow Reusable Oil Filter
-3 Core Brass and Copper High Flow Radiator
-Boxed/Reinforced Lower Control Arms with Poly Swaybar Bushings
-SPAX Shocks (24 setting adjustable)
-Front Lowering Springs
-Front Strut Tower Brace
-Custom Fit Vented Front Rotors

Feel free to ask any other questions.

[Starglider]

Great rebuild and nice to see it being driven fast.

[Nicholas R]

-Forged High Compression Pistons


Very nice build! What is the compression ratio now with these pistons?

[BABIS]

Very nice build! What is the compression ratio now with these pistons?

I guess he has Delorean.eu pistons which have 9.8:1 CR..

I have custom 10.8:1 CR pistons in my even firing engine...
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[Grover]

That's correct. They are Ed's (DPI was backordered due to a manufacturing mix up). The heads also included a 1mm shave which brings it up a bit more. From talking to Ed, with the 1mm shave and the pistons, the compression is 10.8:1.

Also, just some additional information, when I brought everything to get balanced, the machine shop told me the pistons were 35 grams lighter each. Just some FYI.


I guess he has Delorean.eu pistons which have 9.8:1 CR..

I have custom 10.8:1 CR pistons in my even firing engine...
18515

[Nicholas R]

That's correct. They are Ed's (DPI was backordered due to a manufacturing mix up). The heads also included a 1mm shave which brings it up a bit more. From talking to Ed, with the 1mm shave and the pistons, the compression is 10.8:1.

Also, just some additional information, when I brought everything to get balanced, the machine shop told me the pistons were 35 grams lighter each. Just some FYI.

A one millimeter shave does more than you'd think! I ran the numbers for you really quickly and you're pretty much dead on 11:1 compression! That's something I'd be braggin about!! Be sure to use premium from now on, haha! :burnout:

Here are the calcs if you dont believe me! Seriously man, awesome job!! :thumbup:
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[Grover]

Whoa! Thanks for doing the math, good to know!

Just wish I knew about my throttle not fully engaging. I have been driving around thinking this was as fast as it goes...I'll post my dyno results soon, but I will have to go back once the throttle spool is fixed.


A one millimeter shave does more than you'd think! I ran the numbers for you really quickly and you're pretty much dead on 11:1 compression! That's something I'd be braggin about!! Be sure to use premium from now on, haha! :burnout:

Here are the calcs if you dont believe me! Seriously man, awesome job!! :thumbup:
18521

[Mark D]

That green engineering paper brings back all kinds of memories from school. Keep those skills sharp... it's amazing how fast you forget things once you aren't forced to use that knowledge anymore.

[Henrik]

-Front Strut Tower Brace
-Custom Fit Vented Front Rotors


Stephen:
Where did you source these two from? Do they make a big difference? Also, do you have pictures of both? Nice video! You seem to be pushing your car pretty hard and I was going to ask about over-heating the brakes but then I saw that you have vented rotors.

[Grover]

Stephen:
Where did you source these two from? Do they make a big difference? Also, do you have pictures of both? Nice video! You seem to be pushing your car pretty hard and I was going to ask about over-heating the brakes but then I saw that you have vented rotors.

Sorry for the late reply. The front Strut Tower Brace was ordered through DeLorean Mid-West.

The front brake upgrade was a custom setup designed by a club member.

[Grover]

Just an update for those who care.

I got the throttle issue fixed so I am looking forward to taking it to another track event to see what I can get the car up to.

On another note, the car seems to ping/pre-detonate at 17 degrees advance now within the 3000-3500 rpm range. This might be because the engine was running warmer than normal due to an imperfection in a stainless header bottle which caused a loss of cooling pressure. I will be order a new bottle and hopefully that will prevent the coolant from boiling and allow for me to run at a lower temperature. If not, a new radiator may be in order (already have 3 row brass).

Otherwise, I have done a TON of research and found a spark plug that is actually rated 1 step colder. It seems the guys running turbo alpines use them. I am hoping this will allow for me to run back at 17-18 degree timing as the high compression and powder coating is causing the motor to run a bit hotter than normal.

I will give an update this spring, as well as an actual dyno run now that I have full throttle.

I also added the DPI poly shock bushings to the front of the car and it really helped tighten things up. The bushings that come with the shocks were all messed up.

[BABIS]

Just an update for those who care.

I got the throttle issue fixed so I am looking forward to taking it to another track event to see what I can get the car up to.

On another note, the car seems to ping/pre-detonate at 17 degrees advance now within the 3000-3500 rpm range. This might be because the engine was running warmer than normal due to an imperfection in a stainless header bottle which caused a loss of cooling pressure. I will be order a new bottle and hopefully that will prevent the coolant from boiling and allow for me to run at a lower temperature. If not, a new radiator may be in order (already have 3 row brass).

Otherwise, I have done a TON of research and found a spark plug that is actually rated 1 step colder. It seems the guys running turbo alpines use them. I am hoping this will allow for me to run back at 17-18 degree timing as the high compression and powder coating is causing the motor to run a bit hotter than normal.

I will give an update this spring, as well as an actual dyno run now that I have full throttle.

I also added the DPI poly shock bushings to the front of the car and it really helped tighten things up. The bushings that come with the shocks were all messed up.

great news!

Maybe the better reference for new spark plugs is ngk bpr7efs, even if you have to change the their factory gap (iirc wider than the delorean gap)
or you can run ngk BP7EFS (the ones I'm running now) but I don't know if non resistor plugs could affect the original delorean set up.
these high compression engine tends to run hotter and it's very important to avoid pinging. personally I wouldn't have shaved 1 mm the heads..
maybe a lower temperature hotterstat could help, and/or a manual switch for the raidator fans..

[Grover]

great news!

Maybe the better reference for new spark plugs is ngk bpr7efs, even if you have to change the their factory gap (iirc wider than the delorean gap)
or you can run ngk BP7EFS (the ones I'm running now) but I don't know if non resistor plugs could affect the original delorean set up.
these high compression engine tends to run hotter and it's very important to avoid pinging. personally I wouldn't have shaved 1 mm the heads..
maybe a lower temperature hotterstat could help, and/or a manual switch for the radiator fans..

I will have to check and see what the plugs are that I found when I get home. I will look into your plug options as well.

The 1mm shave came from talking to Ed Uding and his experiences with the modified motors. I had Josh at DPI do the heads, I assumed they had the shave done but never confirmed, maybe he has never done it on any products, I will have to follow up with him.

I have the lower otterstat in right now I believe, but with my coolant bottle issue I have had since 2008 (Hervey product), the system has never really worked at its full potential since I could never seal the system off to build up the required pressure. If all else fails I will install the high end aluminum radiator from the UK, seeing as that it can reliably cool an LS1 swap.

I have also been playing with the idea of installing a UTCIS-PT unit for more control over the fuel (http://unwiredtools.com/utcis-pt.asp). I know most people are going to say to go to EFI, but I like to keep it looking unmodded, and I would like to see just how far I can push the Kjet setup.

[BABIS]

I will have to check and see what the plugs are that I found when I get home. I will look into your plug options as well.

The 1mm shave came from talking to Ed Uding and his experiences with the modified motors. I had Josh at DPI do the heads, I assumed they had the shave done but never confirmed, maybe he has never done it on any products, I will have to follow up with him.

I have the lower otterstat in right now I believe, but with my coolant bottle issue I have had since 2008 (Hervey product), the system has never really worked at its full potential since I could never seal the system off to build up the required pressure. If all else fails I will install the high end aluminum radiator from the UK, seeing as that it can reliably cool an LS1 swap.

I have also been playing with the idea of installing a UTCIS-PT unit for more control over the fuel (http://unwiredtools.com/utcis-pt.asp). I know most people are going to say to go to EFI, but I like to keep it looking unmodded, and I would like to see just how far I can push the Kjet setup.

I have also a reference for the Iridium spark plugs for the alpine 2.5 turbo But I don't remember why I thought they were not the better option for my setup.

I know Ed recommend the 1mm shaving to achive the best compression, but I really dislike this solution because it will cause a misalignment with the front chain cover along with some issues with the chains tension. I found that in the Renault manuals they say that prv heads are not shavable, you can only do minor work of smoothing (like 0,1 mm

bad to know about hervey's bottle, I have the same one. what was the problem in your unit? any pic? I'm very happy with a oversized aluminium radiator..
I really like the UTCIS units and I think they could be a nice solution for the k-jets, especially with you custom setup since the k-jet is still calibrated for the original motor...

[Grover]

I have also a reference for the Iridium spark plugs for the alpine 2.5 turbo But I don't remember why I thought they were not the better option for my setup.

I know Ed recommend the 1mm shaving to achive the best compression, but I really dislike this solution because it will cause a misalignment with the front chain cover along with some issues with the chains tension. I found that in the Renault manuals they say that prv heads are not shavable, you can only do minor work of smoothing (like 0,1 mm

bad to know about hervey's bottle, I have the same one. what was the problem in your unit? any pic? I'm very happy with a oversized aluminium radiator..
I really like the UTCIS units and I think they could be a nice solution for the k-jets, especially with you custom setup since the k-jet is still calibrated for the original motor...

I will try and take a picture and upload a picture of the header bottle tomorrow. A fellow DMA member figured it out. There are imperfect welds on where the cap neck meets the bottle. Therefore, no matter what you do, when you put the cap on the bottle rubber seal is always pressed up. This caused me to always loose coolant since the coolant starts to boil earlier and condensate upwards and out the overflow hose.

[DMCVegas]

Years ago when looking at plugs I went to the local BOSCH parts counter, and they had the same plugs for the PRV in at least 2-3 colder ratings (most were hotter). I don't know if I would want to run that much cooler of a thermostat, because you do indeed need a certain amount of heat to ensure clean detonation. Like you say, if you've got problems with the cooling system, I'd address those first before moving on.

As for the Timing Chain Cover, would there be a problem with taking it to a machine shop to have the top ends milled down to match? It's not apart of the Cylinder Head, and really only needs to be there to hold the Valve Covers on.

[DMCMW Dave]

As for the Timing Chain Cover, would there be a problem with taking it to a machine shop to have the top ends milled down to match? It's not apart of the Cylinder Head, and really only needs to be there to hold the Valve Covers on.

That's the easy part. A problem with overhead cam engines. If you take too much off the head, you are retarding the cam timing and possibly "running out" of tensioner. Ideally you'd come up with an adjustable cam gear to resolve this. Or grind the offset into the cam (harder to predict).

[Grover]

great news!

Maybe the better reference for new spark plugs is ngk bpr7efs, even if you have to change the their factory gap (iirc wider than the delorean gap)
or you can run ngk BP7EFS (the ones I'm running now) but I don't know if non resistor plugs could affect the original delorean set up.
these high compression engine tends to run hotter and it's very important to avoid pinging. personally I wouldn't have shaved 1 mm the heads..
maybe a lower temperature hotterstat could help, and/or a manual switch for the raidator fans..

Turns out the ones I found are the NGK BP7EFS plugs. As for the non resistor plugs with the regular setup, to avoid any abundance of electrical noise I would go with a 8.5mm wire set to get some better suppression than stock wires.

As for the pictures of the header bottle, please see the two pictures below. You can see where the welds are raised on the flat surface. I could try removing it and grinding it down but I don't want to worry about breaking the weld and getting and shavings in the bottle that I can't clean out and then introduce into the cooling system. On top of that, I don't want to remove TOO much material and then have the entire sealing area not be consistent and still have the same problem.

2472824729

[DMC5180]

Steve,

The neck is not welded it's Soldered on. The neck is brass, You should be able to lightly touch it up (flatten it to a uniform surface) with a 1.5" sanding disc. Use a drill if you don't have 90 degree die grinder. Use a very FINE grit disc and just lightly touch the bottom with the disc flat to the surface.

I would be fearful of trying to remelt the solder with a flame. Although you might be able to use a solder iron and some solder wick to remove the excess.

[Grover]

Steve,

The neck is not welded it's Soldered on. The neck is brass, You should be able to lightly touch it up (flatten it to a uniform surface) with a 1.5" sanding disc. Use a drill if you don't have 90 degree die grinder. Use a very FINE grit disc and just lightly touch the bottom with the disc flat to the surface.

I would be fearful of trying to remelt the solder with a flame. Although you might be able to use a solder iron and some solder wick to remove the excess.

Ah ok, looked like weld beads to me. Thanks for the info. I will most likely try this route first and potentially save myself ~$180. If I am able to get it close enough the rubber on the cap should be able to make up for any slight variations.

Hopefully this will stop the slight coolant drips I get no matter what from the overflow hose every time after I drive.

[Grover]

Myself and another member from the DMA have some engine modifications. We are going to the track tonight and I will post some video and results.

My car has:
See current thread.

His car has:
DPI Camshafts
DPI Exhaust

Both are 5-speeds. I will post the times and other information sometime this weekend.

[dmruschell]

Myself and another member from the DMA have some engine modifications. We are going to the track tonight and I will post some video and results.

My car has:
See current thread.

His car has:
DPI Camshafts
DPI Exhaust

Both are 5-speeds. I will post the times and other information sometime this weekend.

Well, after driving over 4 hours from MD to NJ, my car broke in Grover's driveway right as we were leaving for the track. The power wire from my rpm relay to my fuel pump was delivering 12V, but it wasn't giving enough juice to run the pump. Because the meter still showed 12V, it took us a while to diagnose. Hopefully we will find another track day, though there is the possibility of dyno runs in November if things work out :)

[Grover]

Well, after driving over 4 hours from MD to NJ, my car broke in Grover's driveway right as we were leaving for the track. The power wire from my rpm relay to my fuel pump was delivering 12V, but it wasn't giving enough juice to run the pump. Because the meter still showed 12V, it took us a while to diagnose. Hopefully we will find another track day, though there is the possibility of dyno runs in November if things work out :)

Had a chance to get to a dyno the other day with 2 other DeLoreans. The results are below. Note: The dyno stopped recording data after 6,250 RPMs for some reason, on all cars. I am hoping to get to another Dyno sometime that is more accurate as my car easily can go to 7k.

Dyno Results from my car:
31511

Dyno Results vs 2 other DeLoreans (#1 = DPI CAMS and DPI Exhaust / #2 = DMCCA CAMS and Magnaflow exhaust (cross over left in place / #3 = Me)
31512