Spittybug
06-25-2011, 05:26 PM
I received my adjustable clutch linkage from Grady last week. Installed in a few minutes, and went to back out of the garage. No difference.
Some background: I have the stainless clutch line, fluid levels good, both cylinders rebuilt in the last couple of years. No leaking anywhere. New clutch plate and pressure plate in the last couple of years. I was one that despite all being in good shape, needed just a hair more throw in my peddle. I therefore shaved the stop nut off the pedal bracket and had a homemade replacement for the linker bar (that the adjustable linkage replaces) that worked fine for a year or two. No issues. One night, unexpectedly, my homemade piece snapped (simply too small a gauge metal) and I had to change gears with no clutch! This essentially meant not shifting out of second for the last mile home and going slow. I threw the old linkage back in and found that I was able to shift no problem... I've had it like this a month or two. Now all of a sudden the car won't go into gear when the engine is running and clutch engaged. Won't physically engage in forward gears, grinds tying to go into reverse. Same even though I now have the slightly extended linkage in place. I think I'm at the maximum throw that I can physically get, but I'm going to double check.
With engine not running, gearshift slides easily into all gears. With car up on lift I have visually confirmed that slave is moving with depressed clutch pedal. Of course, I can't tell for sure if it is going 100% of its available travel, but it certainly seems to be at least 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch I would guess. If I start car in the air and try to engage gears, same problem. I even put it into gear and then cranked car...I would have thought with no load (in air) it would start up and turn the wheels.. instead, I got some bucking and noise that strongly suggested I cease and desist.
Any suggestions? Any further diagnostics to try before I do the deed and drop the tranny to get to the clutch? It ought to be much, much easier now that I have the lift, but still not something I like to do.
Some background: I have the stainless clutch line, fluid levels good, both cylinders rebuilt in the last couple of years. No leaking anywhere. New clutch plate and pressure plate in the last couple of years. I was one that despite all being in good shape, needed just a hair more throw in my peddle. I therefore shaved the stop nut off the pedal bracket and had a homemade replacement for the linker bar (that the adjustable linkage replaces) that worked fine for a year or two. No issues. One night, unexpectedly, my homemade piece snapped (simply too small a gauge metal) and I had to change gears with no clutch! This essentially meant not shifting out of second for the last mile home and going slow. I threw the old linkage back in and found that I was able to shift no problem... I've had it like this a month or two. Now all of a sudden the car won't go into gear when the engine is running and clutch engaged. Won't physically engage in forward gears, grinds tying to go into reverse. Same even though I now have the slightly extended linkage in place. I think I'm at the maximum throw that I can physically get, but I'm going to double check.
With engine not running, gearshift slides easily into all gears. With car up on lift I have visually confirmed that slave is moving with depressed clutch pedal. Of course, I can't tell for sure if it is going 100% of its available travel, but it certainly seems to be at least 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch I would guess. If I start car in the air and try to engage gears, same problem. I even put it into gear and then cranked car...I would have thought with no load (in air) it would start up and turn the wheels.. instead, I got some bucking and noise that strongly suggested I cease and desist.
Any suggestions? Any further diagnostics to try before I do the deed and drop the tranny to get to the clutch? It ought to be much, much easier now that I have the lift, but still not something I like to do.