Kenny_Z
11-07-2012, 10:44 PM
These aren't Delorean heads but they are aluminum. They're from my 99 Monte Carlo and I found three of the twelve studs snapped off when I removed the head shields. I broke the fourth while trying to back out the stud.
As you can see I tried to slot the bolt and back it out with a screw driver. That plan failed pretty quickly.
http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/monte/bolt01.jpg
I got a washer and a nut. The washer is just a little larger than the bolt. This gives me a gap to pour a little more heat into for better weld penetration without worrying about too much heat on the aluminum.
http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/monte/bolt02.jpg
Obviously the welds don't have to be pretty. At this point my welding gas is running a little low.
http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/monte/bolt03.jpg
I set the nut on the top of the weld and made a tack on the inside just to hold it in place. I found that starting your weld on the nut and then pulling it down to the edge of the washer works best. Also make sure your washer is larger than your nut. The one below ended up ripping apart the washer and I had to get a smaller nut.
http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/monte/bolt04.jpg
I was able to successfully remove all four broken studs without drilling or grinding.
http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/monte/bolt06.jpg
Couple of notes: Give the welds about half a minute to cool. Then take a hammer and lightly tap on your wrench as you apply pressure to remove the stud. When you feel it give stop and take a look to make sure the bolt is actually turning. Like I said before, I tore a washer and the nut gave way before the stud. If you see the weld breaking stop and reweld. Be careful you don't get too much heat into the heads or studs. The two metals have different expansion rates. BE MINDFUL OF WHERE YOU ARE. These heads were out of the car. If I had to do this in the car I'd watch for things like oil, fuel lines, and rubber components.
I think this will work with studs sheared off level with the rest of the surface. You can use a high heat and slow wire feed to put a bubble on top of the bolt without getting into the surrounding metal. Let the bubble cool and then weld it to the washer. I hope I never have to test that theory.
As you can see I tried to slot the bolt and back it out with a screw driver. That plan failed pretty quickly.
http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/monte/bolt01.jpg
I got a washer and a nut. The washer is just a little larger than the bolt. This gives me a gap to pour a little more heat into for better weld penetration without worrying about too much heat on the aluminum.
http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/monte/bolt02.jpg
Obviously the welds don't have to be pretty. At this point my welding gas is running a little low.
http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/monte/bolt03.jpg
I set the nut on the top of the weld and made a tack on the inside just to hold it in place. I found that starting your weld on the nut and then pulling it down to the edge of the washer works best. Also make sure your washer is larger than your nut. The one below ended up ripping apart the washer and I had to get a smaller nut.
http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/monte/bolt04.jpg
I was able to successfully remove all four broken studs without drilling or grinding.
http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/monte/bolt06.jpg
Couple of notes: Give the welds about half a minute to cool. Then take a hammer and lightly tap on your wrench as you apply pressure to remove the stud. When you feel it give stop and take a look to make sure the bolt is actually turning. Like I said before, I tore a washer and the nut gave way before the stud. If you see the weld breaking stop and reweld. Be careful you don't get too much heat into the heads or studs. The two metals have different expansion rates. BE MINDFUL OF WHERE YOU ARE. These heads were out of the car. If I had to do this in the car I'd watch for things like oil, fuel lines, and rubber components.
I think this will work with studs sheared off level with the rest of the surface. You can use a high heat and slow wire feed to put a bubble on top of the bolt without getting into the surrounding metal. Let the bubble cool and then weld it to the washer. I hope I never have to test that theory.