body removal from frame

[timothymoore]

when repairing my floorboards on 10186, i noticed that i had a small hole that rusted through the frame, so i was wondering how long it would take for me to take the body off the frame and what i have to do in order to take frame off. im gonna patch up any holes i see an try to re-epoxy wherever rust is showing. Thanks

[82DMC12]

when repairing my floorboards on 10186, i noticed that i had a small hole that rusted through the frame, so i was wondering how long it would take for me to take the body off the frame and what i have to do in order to take frame off. im gonna patch up any holes i see an try to re-epoxy wherever rust is showing. Thanks

I'm going to be doing a frame-off within the next few months also. From what I understand, If you know what you are doing and don't have any really bad fasteners or anything, you should be able to roll the chassis with engine on it out in a day, easy. The problem is, once you get it all apart, you might as well go all the way and restore all the suspension, replace everything old while you are in there. That will take quite a while. Then just roll the chassis back under the body and you are done.

Simple, right? ;-)

Andy

[tgraham]

From memory (so, it may be missing a few parts)!

Up front:
- Evacuate the A/C and disconnect the compressor hoses at the accumulator and condenser
- Disconnect the other hose at the accumulator
- detach the wiring grounds at the radiator bracket
- disconnect the fuel pump wires
- disconnect the steering joint from the rack
- disconnect the filler hose and vapor hose (take off that panel under the filler)
- disconnect the clutch reservoir line
- disconnect the clutch line from the clutch master cylinder
- disconnect the brake pipes from the brake master cylinder

Bolts/interior
- Two in the luggage compartment, six on the interior, two on the rear stabilizer, two on the rear pontoons

Rear:
- disconnect the parking brake cables (either from the interior handle or at the parking brake itself)
- disconnect the big cooling hose at the header bottle
- disconnect the wiring at the bulkhead box
- disconnect a ground or two going from the engine to the upper harness.
- disconnect the vacuum hoses leading to the metal piping at the frame
- disconnect the vacuum hoses going to the left pontoon

I think that's most of it... just go slow, then you'll see what you (and/or I) forgot.

How much time it takes will depend on a bunch of factors. The biggest one: do you have a lift?

Good luck!

Travis

[Morpheus]

I, too will be doing a frame-off with my car. Unfortunately, all those old threads illustrating the procedure disappeared with the old forum.


Unfortunately, I don't have a lift so i will be utilizing the cinder block/jack method. Has anyone done this before that can give me some pointers?

[nullset]

I've done this before!

First, fly Sean out to wherever you are….. well, fortunately, he was close to me.

It's easiest with lots of concrete, some 2x4s, and 2 floor jacks. You also need to remove the shifter boot and disconnect that linkage from the body.

Once everything is loose, just go slowly and watch for things that are still attached. REALLY slowly! Once the car is high enough to clear the frame, roll it out of the way.

It's a great thing to do for a Tech Session day. Invite your nearby owners to help out and watch. 2930 almost decided to tip over at some point, so having helpers nearby can be REALLY good……

--buddy

[David T]

The biggest problem with a removing the body is where and when to stop. There are so many things to do and replace "just because" that the project can take a LOT longer and cost a lot more than just what you initially think you want to do. A lot of the time you can do frame repairs without removing the body. Of course it depends a lot on the location and extent of the repair. If the frame is that bad that you need to remove the body, then don't be surprised if, after removing the body, you find a LOT more to repair. Follow the procedure in the Workshop Manual and when lifting go slow and easy just in case you missed something! Take a lot of notes and pictures. Avoid using cinder blocks. They can topple or collapse with no warning. Wood blocking and/or jackstands if you do not have a lift.
David Teitelbaum

[timothymoore]

not to sound like a moron lol , im still relatively new to the DMC community but is the work shop manual you speak of the same as what people call the tech manual?

[David T]

Right on the front it should say Workshop Manual and yes, it could also be called a tech manual. The other important manual you should have is the Parts manual for the exploded views.
David Teitelbaum

[timothymoore]

ok, sounds good. i will start reading into my tech manual and seeing what i have to do and get for the project.

[Morpheus]

Avoid using cinder blocks. They can topple or collapse with no warning. Wood blocking and/or jackstands if you do not have a lift.
David Teitelbaum

And/or jackstands? Does that mean there are some jackstands out there that raise up that high?

Can you illustrate the wood blocking method and describe how it's more sturdy than stacking cinder blocks? Seems to me that anything stacked that high can be unstable.