Door stuck (driver side) front lock

[newperez]

Help! Can't seem to get my driver side door unlocked. The problem seems to be the front lock that releases when you lift up the lever. Any suggestions? Am I going to have to unscrew the bottom door panel to fix this? Anyone ever run into this issue? Thanks in advanced. I can provide photos or videos

[DMCMW Dave]

Try pressing very hard on the rocker switch (lock) toward the front (unlock) as you simultanously pull the release. Try the inside and outside release handles while doing this (not at the same time). Can be done from the outside with the window open. Also try using the key from the outside while you pull on the handle (not hard enough to break the key!)

Also pull the outside release handle and let it slam back, i.e. pull it all the way and then let your fingers off. If that is sticky at all the lock won't work correctly. Yeah - worst case the panels have to come off to get to the lock rods, although you can sometimes get what you need to by removing the grab handle only. Hard to do on a hot day with the door stuck shut though. . .

[newperez]

Try pressing very hard on the rocker switch (lock) toward the front (unlock) as you simultanously pull the release. Try the inside and outside release handles while doing this (not at the same time). Can be done from the outside with the window open. Also try using the key from the outside while you pull on the handle (not hard enough to break the key!)

Also pull the outside release handle and let it slam back, i.e. pull it all the way and then let your fingers off. If that is sticky at all the lock won't work correctly. Yeah - worst case the panels have to come off to get to the lock rods, although you can sometimes get what you need to by removing the grab handle only. Hard to do on a hot day with the door stuck shut though. . .


THANKS DAVE! Yeah.. I tried doing it this morning in the extreme heat & was about to pass out & got claustrophobic. (Had a Johhny Carson moment). Going to try your tips on a cooler day... I guess no 4th of July Delorean. :(

P.S. WHAT SHOULD I SPRAY/USE TO KEEP THESE DOORS LUBRICATED?

[content22207]

The problem is design flaws in the front lock rod:
1) It has no turnbuckles for adjustment (you have to physically bend the rod to adjust it). All the other rods have turnbuckles
2) It uses a cheap plastic retainer to hold it in fore/aft alignment. If/when that retainer breaks, the rod can bow outwards rather than unlocking the latch

You can move the front lock rod manually with a pair of needle nose pliers through the escutcheon opening.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[David T]

I disagree. The problem is when the striker pins are not in perfect alignment and you close the doors both latches are not in "Second Locking Position". Then you force the lock bending and stretching the linkage. After a while all of the internal door adjustments are upset and then the door is "stuck". First of all NEVER force the lock. If it won't lock it means the door is not properly closed. Don't slam the doors thinking that will get them to close better. If you have to slam them closed, again, something is wrong and eventually it will get stuck. On a properly adjusted Delorean you do not slam the doors or force the lock. It all works smoothly. Once you are "stuck" try the things Dave S mentioned. If they don't work you may have to take the upper door panel off and try working the linkage directly. Once you DO get it open you should not close it until all of the adjustments have been done. BTW I saw one car that was stuck, the seat belt was caught in the door. Again, it was forced closed and would not open.
David Teitelbaum

[John U]

It would be nice to see a writeup in the how to section for adjusting the door pins

[content22207]

1) Remove bulb weatherstripping
2) Examine wear patterns on striker bolt heads and latches/guides for evidence of bolts extending too far or not far enough -- add or remove washers as necessary (thinner washers can be substituted for factory washers)
3) Lightly snug striker bolts
4) While holding the exterior release handle up, close the door all the way, allowing the door to position the striker bolts where it wants them. Do not release the exterior handle. Open the door and tighten down the striker bolts.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[John U]

seems easy enough....thanks!

BTW...how do the doors become "un-aligned" over the years?

[content22207]

Most car/truck doors can stand to be adjusted after 30 years of service. The DeLorean difference is:
1) fiberglass underbody (very flexible, especially relative to the doors themselves)
2) two striker bolts rather than one
3) roof cages coming unglued
4) were the doors ever adjusted properly from Dunmurry? It seems like every DeLorean left the factory with the same number of washers under each striker bolt, whether the underbody wanted them that way or not.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[DCUK Martin]

For the specific issue described by Bill of the front latch not unlocking (which was also my first through), here's a neat trick.

On the back of the grab handle is a piece that's glued on. The glue is fairly feeble and if you just push on it, this panel usually comes unstuck and you can pull it out (it's very flexible). The front lock rod runs immediately behind it and with a pair of pliers, you can probably give enough of an extra pull to unlock the front latch.

If however it's the other common problem of the release handle not relaxing fully, here's what to do:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=92JJQG57t1s

[DMCMW Dave]

Most car/truck doors can stand to be adjusted after 30 years of service. The DeLorean difference is:
1) fiberglass underbody (very flexible, especially relative to the doors themselves)
2) two striker bolts rather than one
3) roof cages coming unglued
4) were the doors ever adjusted properly from Dunmurry? It seems like every DeLorean left the factory with the same number of washers under each striker bolt, whether the underbody wanted them that way or not.


+ probably related to your comment about time-the door skins are crimped and glued to the door frame. If the glue has let go the skin can move causing the actual shape of the door to change.

+ Loose/improperly installed side glass can do this too. I suspect this is the real reason for the tollbooth window, with a real full glass I suspect the doors would not maintain shape over time. As with the windshield, the glass is part of the structure.

+ weak struts compensated by turning up the torsion bar. This can twist the door at the hinges.

It's a wonder as many work as well as they do.

[content22207]

... here's what to do:...

Bit more challenging to shorten/lengthen the front lock rod, eh? Would it have killed DMC to spend a few extra pennies per car to put turnbuckles on the front lock rods too?

To ensure that the bell crank always fully returns, just put a helper spring between it and the cable bracket:
2279
The exterior cable makes a wicked U turn inside the door, and will eventually stop sliding well in its sheath no matter how much lubricant you slather on it. There's a return spring for the throttle cable -- why not ones for the doors too?

Bill Robertson
#5939

[DCUK Martin]

There's a return spring for the throttle cable -- why not ones for the doors too?


Both latch mechanisms contain return springs and they're more than adequate. After 30 years a few cars need a squirt of lube here and there is all.

[content22207]

Care to argue that my exterior cable return springs are harmful, detrimental, or otherwise a source of difficulty?

They were individually priced at 40 some odd cents apiece, so there was a monetary cost associated with them.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[DCUK Martin]

You can add brightly coloured pink ribbons to it too if you like but they'd be equally pointless. http://dmctalk.org/images/smilies/screwy.gif

[content22207]

A reasonable argument can be made that brightly colored pink ribbons would interfere with normal door mechanism operation. The same can not be said about my return springs. They are imminently affordable insurance that my bell cranks will return to their fully retracted positions every single time.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[DMCMW Dave]

I have to agree with both of you on this one - I've seen added springs easily overcome sticky latches. A lot less trouble than replacing the latches or at least having to take them out for a good cleaning.

[David T]

My guess as to why the striker pins go "out of adjustment" is because someone gets the bright idea of instead of replacing the old, dead, door seal, just get the door to close harder against it! Same idea as twisting up the torsion bar to make up for weak struts. One of the big reasons why the doors fail to work as they should is after 20 + years the lubricant dries out and becomes more glue than lube. The springs can't move parts the way they should and then the doors get forced throwing the linkage out of adjustment. One "trick" to adjusting the pins is to remove the front pin and concentrate on getting the rear one perfect. Now that you have one right it is easy to do the second. Hard to do both simultaneously. Also be sure the door is not striking the pin on the top of the head. That only makes the door move forward or rearward, again, making it hard to do both pins. A write-up will not take into account all of the possible problems you have to deal with in order to get the door SYSTEM to work. I say SYSTEM because to get the doors to work there are a LOT of things that all have to work just right. From the torsion bars being adjusted right to the struts being fresh, the door seals being supple, the mechanisms all cleaned and lubricated, the striker pins at the right height and position, the door lock module being upgraded, etc.
And BOTH doors must work right for the central locking system to work right! For instance if on one door both latches are NOT in 2nd locking position you should not be able to lock the doors even with forcing the lock to latch. That is the door telling you it is not closed and locked properly. Ignoring that and forcing it eventually it WILL lock but it ain't RIGHT!
David Teitelbaum

[newperez]

Turns out my problems was the key. I think I accident locked it with the key then from the inside and messed something up.

Rookie mistake? :thankyou:

[David T]

On a properly adjusted and working door that should not have caused the problem. What may have happened in you case is the key locked both locks but when you unlocked the door inside you only unlocked one lock because the linkage is out-of-adjustment. In any case now you must go over ALL adjustments to get it working as it should.
David Teitelbaum