Hot and warm start issues...

[Mydmc5898]

My car is running MS2 on the 3.0 PRV. It is using the EDIS coils as well.
I had it tuned at a local tuning shop and the car runs great.
He left some things for me to do to save me on cost. But accomplished what I needed done.
The fuel accumulator was left in from the stock set up.
The fuel pump and assembly was replaced, new lines etc...
When the car is cold it starts just fine. Once it runs past about 160 it has trouble starting.
It doesn't hold an idle unless the car is shut down and the system is primed with fuel.
If the engine is shut off around 190 or higher it won't start until after about 5-6 attempts.
Just to rule out any mechanical component, could the accumulator cause this as well?
I figured since I have the Eagle Primer's fuel regulator in, it shouldn't matter on fuel
pressure. Or am I not understanding this correctly.
Thanks Darryl

[Spittybug]

Darryl, where are you located? Have you looked at our EFI section? We'd love to hear more about your car and would be really interested in seeing your VE and spark tables!

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge on your fuel rail setup (if not, you should consider it). This will tell us whether or not you are bleeding down pressure and when it is happening. If so, it could be the fuel accumulator or the check valve at the pump. I presume you don't get any visible leaks or you would have told us. Have you looked at your MS settings? You may be getting some good old heat soak into your intake air temperature sensor. Depending on how your settings are, this could be affecting things. Can you post your .msq and log files?

(wait, this isn't Darryl in San Antonio is it?)

Owen.

[Mydmc5898]

No I'm in Wilkes-Barre, Pa.
I will try to post more info and pictures after the weekend.
Along with the MSQ etc...

No gas leaks. One or two oil leaks, and also a trans leak too.
Just had an engine rebuilt and it is already leaking. 😒

I don't have a gauge on the fuel rail. Although I wanted to add one, I'm going to bring it to work tomorrow or Saturday so I could have the accumulator bypassed.
The fuel pump assemy was changed, including the boot etc... When the engine was installed. So I'm guessing the check valve would be ok. Although I'm not certain.

Thanks
Darryl

Runs pretty good, there is a missfire at around 5000-5500 RPM
But it goes away if its pushed past that. But I never climb that high anyway.
Idle is a little high so I wanted to bring it from 1k down to 750 if possible.
I can make a datalog and post that as well.

Thanks
Darryl