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Mydmc5898
04-02-2013, 12:25 AM
I'm running MSII with a 3.57 board on the 3.0.
I'm using EDIS6 and also have a Wideband O2 sensor LC-1 installed.
I recently had the car tuned for the VE and cold driving.
The only issues I'm having are warm and hot starts. Anytime the engine is past 60 degrees it refuses to start unless its cranked multiple times... usually 5-6 attempts. and usually around 160-170 if it starts up it idles bad. if i shut her down and restart it idles just fine.
i assume my issues are in the cranking pulse and afterstart. but I don't know which way to go. I'll post my latest MSQ. And again it drives great, which is all I want the tuner to have done. I want to work on the starting myself to save some money.
Anyone have any techniques? Sometimes if I shut it right down and try to restart it, it starts great, I assume because small amount of fuel is in the cylinder. However if I push the gas all the way down to "flood clear" it starts as well... sometimes.
i don't really smell fuel so I'm guessing it needs to be higher in fuel.
Again the MSQ is a work in progress, please don't judge lol.
if anyone is available to help over the phone... that would be great too!
I will do my best to post updates as i go along, just hard with school and work.

thanks much in advance!
Darryl

AdmiralSenn
04-02-2013, 10:56 AM
Well, my first thought would actually be to check your fuel pressure.

If you turn the key to run (but not start) does your fuel pump prime the system? If so, try turning it on and off several times. Depending on your system you may be able to hear it pressurize the lines (mine sounds like a whoosh that gets abruptly quieter as the pressure builds). If it does that and then starts immediately you've found your problem. Also you can try just bypassing whatever fuel relay you're using with a jumper to apply power directly to the pump for the same effect.

If you have a regulator with a gauge on it that can also be enlightening. I discovered that my new accumulator was not doing its job and the system was losing pressure almost instantly after shutoff. I added a separate check valve and it made a big difference.

I would investigate your fuel supply before you mess too much with the settings. Despite eight or nine re-tunes, I have yet to need any serious fiddling with the startup settings. If you live in a very cold area it may be tougher but generally it's one of the areas that doesn't need terribly much to get going.

Spittybug
04-02-2013, 11:00 AM
I hadn't noticed you had the even fire 3.0. I was shocked when I saw the even fire in the General Settings!

Try making your cranking fuel lower. 100% by engine warm temps. Also, when having a hot start problem, does holding the gas pedal down half way (like an old carb trick) help? If so, it means you aren't getting enough air. Your idle air curve is meager. What idle air controller are you using?

Your VE, Adv., and AFR tables look pretty good. What size injectors are you using?

A log is worth a thousand words. Record a couple (to avoid being too big) showing the areas where you have issues so that we can see all the variables.

Owen.

Mydmc5898
04-02-2013, 12:10 PM
If I turn the key it primes the system. If I try holding the pedal half way it doesn't seem to help.
But if I turn the key on and off and not try to start it, usually it will fire right up. But not all the time.
I saved setting. Prior to messing with the starting settings... Just incase lol.

As for the idle I'm using the stock eagle IAC motor. The GM style one.
I will make a log, would it be best to show when it struggles to start?
Also I will get it to work so we could put a gauge on it. I have a new angle drive coming in, so I can get both done.
What idle curve would be best to start with?

Injector size I'm not sure. It was all built by someone else and left me with a mess of problems.
I can look for the part number and go from there. I believe they are high and not low
At work now, so it's hard to respond at the moment.
If I missed anything I will add it in other replies


Ohhhh and the accumulator... My old one is still in the car. I resolved it in 2002 I think... Maybe even 2001.
I'm not sure how to bypass it correctly with the three lines coming off of it.
Does anyone have a diagram to follow?
Because the starting as I mentioned sometimes does work perfect... Other times not so good.
But cranking or priming does seem to help. So yeah pressure seems bad.

I will add the log and pictures maybe.. Thursday if not then, then the weekend.

Thanks again!
Darryl
And I will change the setting back than until I figure out the pressure