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Dangermouse
07-18-2013, 05:03 PM
After all my practice a couple of weekends ago,I thought I would add a slightly different "How to:" to the one recently posted. This enables the GC to be maneuvered out from under the car.

How To: Remove the Automatic Transmission Governor Computer


The Automatic Transmission Governor is an interlinked set of components used to select the appropriate gear in the transmission. It is comprised of a (A) Connector Box , (B) Governor Circuit (GC), (C) Switch Connector and (D) Solenoid Connector (thanks to DMC for the drawing used below). One frequent reason for removal is to repair the electronic circuit boards that are within the Governor and are typically known as the Governor Circuit (or Governor Computer or GC)

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20571&d=1374180423



There are several methods of removing the GC from the car, depending on the reasons for doing so.
Basic Method – Partial removal of components. This is used when the owner wishes to inspect and test the assembly but not drain the transmission.

This is similar to the method used in this dmctalk.org post,
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7244-Auto-Trans-GC-removal-and-rebuild-video
but gives better access to the componentry

Optional Method – Complete removal of all four components. These are the extra steps required if the Governor is being sent out for repair to a vendor or other repair facility. Or when the owner wishes to inspect and test the complete assembly


Basic Method – Partial removal of components. This is used when the owner wishes to inspect and test the complete assembly
Pros: No need to drain transmission.
Cons: Some soldering is necessary at the car

Parts needed:
Repair parts for GC

Tools needed:
11 mm socket
6mm socket

Step 1: Safely Raising the Car

Place your car on ramps/jackstands/lift in such a manner that is safe. Only access to the rear of the car is necessary.

Step 2: Removing Connection Box Cables

Move to the engine compartment and locate the Connection Box on the driver’s side firewall.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20574&d=1374181238


The Connection Box has 5 sets of cables installed on it – two on the top and three on the bottom.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20573&d=1374181238

Remove the two L-shaped rubber connectors (to the wiring harness) on top of the Connection Box..

There are two multi-conductor cables permanently connected to the bottom (shown on the right in the below photo). You cannot remove these. One is the wiring to the GC and the other is the wiring to the Switch Connector on the passenger side of the transmission.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20568&d=1374180421

There is one additional 3-conductor cable that enters the Connection Box from the bottom (shown on the left in the above photo), but physically passes through and is connected, via ring-terminals, to three of the brass connectors in the top circle. This is the connection to the solenoids. There is no need to disconnect this cable.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20572&d=1374181237

If you are testing the integrity of the solenoids – disconnect the three conductors (by loosening and removing the three 6mm brass nuts (having first noted the colors and locations of the wires) and measure the resistance between the two pairs (Green/Yellow & Blue and Green/Yellow & Brown, the Green/Yellow wire being the common). Each should be around 25ohms.

Step 3: Removing the Connection Box from the bulk head

The connection box is attached to a bracket on the firewall. There are no screws or bolts, it is just a friction fit. Slide the box towards the rear of the car.
Once the box is loose, find a gap between the firewall and the engine to push the connection box downwards to below the car

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20569&d=1374180422

Step 4: Removing the Governor

Locate the Governor on the passenger side of the transmission.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20564&d=1374180418

First remove the connection for the kick-down cable.

The Governor is attached by two 11mm bolts. Undo these and the Governor should just pull off.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20566&d=1374180420

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20567&d=1374180420

Step 5: Cabling (again)

Pull the Connection Box through from above, and feed it over the transmission from driver’s side to passenger’s side. There may be cable ties, or similar, holding the cables off the exhaust.

You should now have the GC and Connection Box on the ground. There is sufficient cable length to maneuver the GC to the back of the car, while the Connection Box stays underneath.

The Switch Connector and Solenoid Connector remain installed on the transmission.

Step 8: Repair Unit

With the entire system off the car, it can be sent off for professional repair, or the GC can be opened up on a workbench. There are 11 connections to de-solder while you are beside the car, before the two boards can be taken to your repair location.

There are several guides that deal with this in depth.


Optional Method – Complete removal of all four components. These are the extra steps necessary if the Governor is being sent out for repair to a vendor or other repair facility. Or when the owner wishes to inspect and test the complete assembly
Pros: Once removed, components can be disassembled and tested in a convenient location
All components can be shipped together to a vendor
Cons: Transmission fluid must be drained, and transmission pan must be removed

Extra Parts needed: Extra Tools needed:
103516 Transmission pan gasket (only if pan is removed) 4mm Allen key/wrench
102101 Transmission drain plug washer
103732 Switch Connector O-ring
103698Solenoid Connection O-Ring (only if removed)
Transmission Fluid – 5 qts Dextron III (probably need 4qts)


After raising the car in Step 1:

Step 1a: Drain Transmission Fluid

Remove the 8mm square-holed plug and drain the transmission fluid into a suitable container.

Step 1b: Remove Transmission fittings

1b.1: Switch Connector: Remove the switch connector on the passenger side of the transmission. It is attached by two 4mm Allen bolts.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20563&d=1374180418




1b.2: Solenoid Connector: This is a further optional step.

It may or may not be necessary/desirable to remove the Solenoid Connector. The vendors do not require it be sent to them to repair the GC.

If not desired: The cable connection at the Connection Box must be removed, - see the last part of Step 2 above.

If desired: No need to disconnect the cable at the Connection Box. The Solenoid Connector (item D in the drawing on Page 1) is attached to the transmission by means of a nut accessible by removing the transmission pan.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20565&d=1374180419

Remove the transmission pan. It is attached by 11mm bolts. Remove pan and gasket (use a new gasket for reassembly). At this point it is worth inspecting the pan for debris which may be indicative of a transmission problem. The filter can also be inspected.

Remove the nut attaching the Solenoid Connector to the transmission and remove the Solenoid Connector






file:///C:\Users\DERMOT~1.MCA\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlcl ip1\01\clip_image002.jpg
Disclaimer: The above outlines one method that I found useful to perform this task on my vehicle. Use it at your own risk on your own vehicle. Always work safely.

Dangermouse
07-18-2013, 05:04 PM
And a handy-dandy pdf

Ryan S.
07-18-2013, 05:22 PM
Nice!!! Looks so professional.
Thanks for posting. I am sure I will need this some day.

eagle-co94
01-16-2015, 10:08 PM
...If desired: No need to disconnect the cable at the Connection Box. The Solenoid Connector (item D in the drawing on Page 1) is attached to the transmission by means of a nut accessible by removing the transmission pan.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20565&d=1374180419...

Just a little update to this step of the process. The cable I just removed from my spare auto transmission did NOT have a nut holding it in place. It was held in place by a c-clip.

DMCMW Dave
01-17-2015, 12:10 PM
Just a little update to this step of the process. The cable I just removed from my spare auto transmission did NOT have a nut holding it in place. It was held in place by a c-clip.

That is normal. There is no nut on the inside. Once you unsnap the clip and unplug the wire (inside the trans), the connector will just slide out of the trans.

The one on the passenger side is held in by the bracket and can be removed without dropping the pan.

Dangermouse
01-17-2015, 12:18 PM
Hmm. I guess I'll have to check mine the next time I have the pan off.

cpistocco
06-07-2016, 10:36 AM
This was very helpful...Thank You to all.

I would add 2 extra steps:

1) There is a tab/ retainer at the very top of the transmission which holds the wiring for the governor in place. I had to remove a bolt at the very top of the transmission in order to remove the retainer.

2) You need a special tool to remove the transmission plug. I took a 3/8 drive extension and ground it down on 2 sides in order to remove the plug.

DMCMW Dave
06-07-2016, 11:09 AM
2) You need a special tool to remove the transmission plug. I took a 3/8 drive extension and ground it down on 2 sides in order to remove the plug.

That is the same tool you should already own to be changing your engine oil.

cpistocco
06-07-2016, 11:24 PM
That is the same tool you should already own to be changing your engine oil.

I think that my oil pan has a bolt...

cpistocco
07-15-2016, 12:03 PM
Does anyone have a photo of the proper routing for the trans governor wiring (esp at the transmission)? The 3 separate wires are difficult to place evenly,,,,no matter what configuration I use. ( I should have taken a photo before disassembly !)

cpistocco
07-15-2016, 12:06 PM
After all my practice a couple of weekends ago,I thought I would add a slightly different "How to:" to the one recently posted. This enables the GC to be maneuvered out from under the car.

How To: Remove the Automatic Transmission Governor Computer


The Automatic Transmission Governor is an interlinked set of components used to select the appropriate gear in the transmission. It is comprised of a (A) Connector Box , (B) Governor Circuit (GC), (C) Switch Connector and (D) Solenoid Connector (thanks to DMC for the drawing used below). One frequent reason for removal is to repair the electronic circuit boards that are within the Governor and are typically known as the Governor Circuit (or Governor Computer or GC)

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20571&d=1374180423



There are several methods of removing the GC from the car, depending on the reasons for doing so.
Basic Method – Partial removal of components. This is used when the owner wishes to inspect and test the assembly but not drain the transmission.

This is similar to the method used in this dmctalk.org post,
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7244-Auto-Trans-GC-removal-and-rebuild-video
but gives better access to the componentry

Optional Method – Complete removal of all four components. These are the extra steps required if the Governor is being sent out for repair to a vendor or other repair facility. Or when the owner wishes to inspect and test the complete assembly


Basic Method – Partial removal of components. This is used when the owner wishes to inspect and test the complete assembly
Pros: No need to drain transmission.
Cons: Some soldering is necessary at the car

Parts needed:
Repair parts for GC

Tools needed:
11 mm socket
6mm socket

Step 1: Safely Raising the Car

Place your car on ramps/jackstands/lift in such a manner that is safe. Only access to the rear of the car is necessary.

Step 2: Removing Connection Box Cables

Move to the engine compartment and locate the Connection Box on the driver’s side firewall.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20574&d=1374181238


The Connection Box has 5 sets of cables installed on it – two on the top and three on the bottom.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20573&d=1374181238

Remove the two L-shaped rubber connectors (to the wiring harness) on top of the Connection Box..

There are two multi-conductor cables permanently connected to the bottom (shown on the right in the below photo). You cannot remove these. One is the wiring to the GC and the other is the wiring to the Switch Connector on the passenger side of the transmission.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20568&d=1374180421

There is one additional 3-conductor cable that enters the Connection Box from the bottom (shown on the left in the above photo), but physically passes through and is connected, via ring-terminals, to three of the brass connectors in the top circle. This is the connection to the solenoids. There is no need to disconnect this cable.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20572&d=1374181237

If you are testing the integrity of the solenoids – disconnect the three conductors (by loosening and removing the three 6mm brass nuts (having first noted the colors and locations of the wires) and measure the resistance between the two pairs (Green/Yellow & Blue and Green/Yellow & Brown, the Green/Yellow wire being the common). Each should be around 25ohms.

Step 3: Removing the Connection Box from the bulk head

The connection box is attached to a bracket on the firewall. There are no screws or bolts, it is just a friction fit. Slide the box towards the rear of the car.
Once the box is loose, find a gap between the firewall and the engine to push the connection box downwards to below the car

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20569&d=1374180422

Step 4: Removing the Governor

Locate the Governor on the passenger side of the transmission.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20564&d=1374180418

First remove the connection for the kick-down cable.

The Governor is attached by two 11mm bolts. Undo these and the Governor should just pull off.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20566&d=1374180420

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20567&d=1374180420

Step 5: Cabling (again)

Pull the Connection Box through from above, and feed it over the transmission from driver’s side to passenger’s side. There may be cable ties, or similar, holding the cables off the exhaust.

You should now have the GC and Connection Box on the ground. There is sufficient cable length to maneuver the GC to the back of the car, while the Connection Box stays underneath.

The Switch Connector and Solenoid Connector remain installed on the transmission.

Step 8: Repair Unit

With the entire system off the car, it can be sent off for professional repair, or the GC can be opened up on a workbench. There are 11 connections to de-solder while you are beside the car, before the two boards can be taken to your repair location.

There are several guides that deal with this in depth.


Optional Method – Complete removal of all four components. These are the extra steps necessary if the Governor is being sent out for repair to a vendor or other repair facility. Or when the owner wishes to inspect and test the complete assembly
Pros: Once removed, components can be disassembled and tested in a convenient location
All components can be shipped together to a vendor
Cons: Transmission fluid must be drained, and transmission pan must be removed

Extra Parts needed: Extra Tools needed:
103516 Transmission pan gasket (only if pan is removed) 4mm Allen key/wrench
102101 Transmission drain plug washer
103732 Switch Connector O-ring
103698Solenoid Connection O-Ring (only if removed)
Transmission Fluid – 5 qts Dextron III (probably need 4qts)


After raising the car in Step 1:

Step 1a: Drain Transmission Fluid

Remove the 8mm square-holed plug and drain the transmission fluid into a suitable container.

Step 1b: Remove Transmission fittings

1b.1: Switch Connector: Remove the switch connector on the passenger side of the transmission. It is attached by two 4mm Allen bolts.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20563&d=1374180418




1b.2: Solenoid Connector: This is a further optional step.

It may or may not be necessary/desirable to remove the Solenoid Connector. The vendors do not require it be sent to them to repair the GC.

If not desired: The cable connection at the Connection Box must be removed, - see the last part of Step 2 above.

If desired: No need to disconnect the cable at the Connection Box. The Solenoid Connector (item D in the drawing on Page 1) is attached to the transmission by means of a nut accessible by removing the transmission pan.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20565&d=1374180419

Remove the transmission pan. It is attached by 11mm bolts. Remove pan and gasket (use a new gasket for reassembly). At this point it is worth inspecting the pan for debris which may be indicative of a transmission problem. The filter can also be inspected.

Remove the nut attaching the Solenoid Connector to the transmission and remove the Solenoid Connector






file:///C:\Users\DERMOT~1.MCA\AppData\Local\Temp\msohtmlcl ip1\01\clip_image002.jpg
Disclaimer: The above outlines one method that I found useful to perform this task on my vehicle. Use it at your own risk on your own vehicle. Always work safely.

Hello- I would love to see more photos of governor harness before disassembly. - especially near transmission connections.
Thanks
Charles

Noahkat
07-09-2019, 06:50 PM
So i am not a mechanic - but i did follow the procedure in this thread and it worked great! Kudos to OP. If u drop the pan and it has never been dropped before (like mine), here are a few notes if uve never done that before; as i had not:
1. The original pan gasket is cork, and therefore tiny washers are there in the holes of the cork to prevent overtightening. If u switched to a silicone gasket (i got the one from DPI) you do not need the tiny washers, just the larger washers for the bolts. Make a necklace or something with the tiny ones.
2. The torque spec on the drain plug is 15 ft-lbs, but the torque spec on the pan bolts is only 2-3 ft-lbs—-do not overtighten the pan bolts or you will bend the flange of the pan, which will make u sad (i was sad when i did it). You can fix this if you screw it up by carefully hammering the flange back in place (google this procedure if need be).
3. Its hard to find a torque wrench that starts at 2-3 ft-lbs—but if ur slightly ocd as i am u will want all the bolts to have the same torque. The method i used was hand tighten each bolt then give each bolt a half turn (180 degrees)—you must follow a crisscross pattern (google it) when tightening it or ur gunna have a bad time. The bolts will be snug but not super tight.
3a. For the ocd people out there: hand tightening is taking an 11M socket on an extension, putting a slight amount of transmission fluid on the extension (without the actual socket wrench attached) while wearing polyurethane gloves and turn the bolt until u cant turn it by hand anymore - this reduces the possibility of internal friction impeding the hand tightening process.
4. Its alot less messy if u put the drain plug back in before u take the pan off. Just hand tighten it to stop the drips.
5. Dont forget to purchase the copper crush washer for the drain plug!
6. This is a good time to change ur filter, the magnet is on the filter itself not in the pan.
7. Zip tie the wires from the govenor to the large hose coming out of the ac compressor.
8. Do not overtighten the brass bolts for the 3 connectors in the connector box they will beak and u will uave a bad time; u can order them online if u do break one (as i did).
9. If ur like me and u screw up the first time on something, dont give up, try again: youÂ’ll learn alot very quickly.

Ron
07-09-2019, 07:14 PM
:thumbup: Heck of a 1st post!

:welcome:

Check out the Introductions thread HERE (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1354-Introductions!).