Shep
07-21-2013, 08:13 PM
I just did this one yesterday, and unfortunately forgot to take pictures along the way, but pretty much this is how the interior's going to look once you get to the point of removing the old faceplate:
http://vin559.com/images/work_done/cupholder/resized/cupholder05_640.jpg
Needless to say, this will take a while. I was mostly "flying blind", so it took me 4-5 hours, but your mileage may vary. If anyone who has gone through this process has pictures, it would be most appreciated!
First and foremost, bag and tag absolutely every nut and bolt you remove so you know where it goes later. You can never be too careful with this. Second, and I cannot stress this enough: disconnect the battery!!! You are messing with electronics here, I can guarantee you that if you do not do this, damage will result in one way or the other. Don't skimp on this one!
Third, and this will be more applicable as this how-to gets older and older: before reading this entire write-up, read the subsequent replies. They will provide valuable input (and possibly pictures!) that will be helpful to remember when following this write-up. Then, and only then, read the write-up with those replies in mind. Believe me, it helps! :)
Shifter surround
1) Remove as much of the shifter knob as possible. For manuals, this means removing the ball and boot/gate. For automatics, this means removing the handle, retaining nut, metal piece, and spring.
2) Unscrew the shifter surround via the two screws by the armrest. It should now be loose on that end.
3) Pry up the shifter surround by the loose end. You should see a bunch of wires.
4) Mark the wires that go into the rheostat and their positions (for me it was 1, 3, and 4) and disconnect them.
5) Disconnect the wire going to the clock (if applicable)
6) On Automatics, disconnect the PRND21 light (the gear selection indicator light). I couldn't figure this one out, so I unclipped the white housing from the shifter surround and left it connected.
7) Pull up on the shifter surround until it is removed. If neither you nor the PO have done this before, chances are it'll take a lot of force to break the clips that hold this in place free. They are located at the very front of the surround, on the left and right corners. Remember: don't pry on the plastic, but rather on the clips themselves. Prying on the plastic can result in breaking the shifter surround. Use a long flat screwdriver or trim panel removal tool to break them free.
Armrest
1) On the bracket that the shifter surround screws screw into, there are two bolts on either side. On mine, the size was 5/16", but your mileage may vary. Unscrew both of these.
2) Remove the rear tray behind the armrest via the two screws. I think there were two more 5/16" bolts here plainly visible, although I'm not sure on that one.
3) Remove the ashtray by sliding it open, then pulling up on the tab. This will give you something to hold onto when removing the center trim.
4) Carefully pull up and unplug both window switches, the defroster switch, and remove both dummy switches (or any aftermarket switches you may have installed)
HVAC Controls
1) Pull the three knobs off the HVAC controls For later reference, the outer two are identical, while the inner one has a line on both sides and a different connection style
2) Behind the "mode switch" (the center dial), there is a very small but long screw. Using a small screwdriver (a small phillips "bit" works great here), unscrew and remove it.
3) The HVAC panel will now be loose. Carefully pull it away from the faceplate by tilting the top downwards. There are three bulbs that go into spaces in the bottom part -- the ordering of these three is IMPORTANT! Usually after 30 years, the wiring has solidified into place and you can more or less figure out which bulb goes where, but it never hurts to mark which bulb goes where ("1", "2", and "3").
4) [to be followed when directions are reversed for reassembly] The "mode switch" has a nasty tendency to fall behind the faceplate. With the radio removed, it's fairly easy to push it back into place, however if the radio must be installed (as was the case with mine), it is still possible to reach in where the vents used to be and wiggle it into place. It's harder, but it's more about figuring out where the rod for the dial is and lining it up than anything.
Vent
1) Grabbing the center column of the vent, carefully pull it out. You may have to use a screwdriver to get both the top and bottom to come out at once (for me it was either-or without it).
2) There are two rubber boots that connect the vent to the whatchamacallit behind it. Removal is easy, however reinstallation can be hard as they deform easily. One tip I read is to put them in the freezer for a couple hours, so when you remove them, throw them in the freezer before proceeding. Once they are snug on the vents, they usually do not move much and reinstallation is a breeze.
Craig/ASI Radio
1) First, pull the dials off of the radio.
2) There are two thin hex nuts that hold the radio in place. You can either use a deep socket for these or a wrench (don't recall the size offhand). Once they're loose, they come off easily with your hands.
3) There is a trim piece that these hex nuts hold down with diagrams for the knobs. Remove it.
4) The radio should now fall backwards. Push it back a bit further until it is completely behind the panel
5) Using the space the radio was previously in, push the radio up and out the space where the vents previously resided
6) At some point, the radio will "snag" -- disconnect the antenna and any wires from the radio, then remove
Knee pads
This one needs no step directions as it's a simple matter of unscrewing four nuts on the driver's side, and six nuts on the passenger side. Here's some notes however:
- The driver's side has two kneepads. You only need to remove the right one (or, in the case of right-hand drive DeLoreans, the left one), which has four nuts. While it is not absolutely necessary, loosening the steering wheel and pushing it all the way up helps accessibility of the nuts drastically
- The passenger side has one kneepad, which has six nuts (four on the bottom, two on the top corners). There is also a vent that goes to the door, which takes about two seconds to disconnect and reconnect.
- Nut sizes are either 5/16" or 10mm (I don't recall offhand). Often they are nylocs, but if you're lucky, you'll get regular nuts. Nylocs tend to grip the studs too tight and cause them to back out when you attempt to remove them. Nylocs provide no added benefit, so do yourself a favor and buy about 10-15 regular nuts that also fit the same threads. You'll thank yourself later.
- If a stud comes out, it will remain in the bracket, and you'll need a flathead screwdriver to remove the nut. If this happens, use two regular nuts tightened against each other to reinstall the stud. Do NOT tighten the nut all the way and use that to tighten the stud. While this may seem logical, the nut will become too tight to remove, and will bring the stud back out with it. Two nuts tightened together on the shaft will provide leverage, while allowing one-at-a-time removal to keep the stud in place.
- When you reassemble everything, hand-tighten ONLY! This will secure the kneepad, prevent the studs from coming out he next time, and also allow you to not need tools next time you need to remove them
Center trim
1) Now that you've removed the kneepads, there are two brackets for the lower studs for said kneepads that screw into the center trim. Using a phillips screwdriver, remove both. Bag and tag.
2) The moment of truth, trying to move the center trim! Grabbing behind the area of the rear tray, gently pull up on the trim. It should take a little bit of force, but does not require muscle to remove. If it's not coming up, you missed a nut, bolt, or screw somewhere. Figure out where the "snag" is coming from and address it.
3) When you're moving the center trim, move it rearwards roughly to the point in the picture above. This allows the cigarette lighter to remain connected while still giving you plenty of access to remove the faceplate.
Faceplate
The first thing you'll notice is that access behind the faceplate is suddenly opened up drastically. This will come in handy later when reassembling everything.
1) There are two ground screws on either side of the faceplate. The one on the driver's side has one wire, while the one on the passenger side has three. Remove these bolts. Bag and tag.
2) There are four bolts holding the faceplate in place. Two (at the bottom) have already been removed. The remaining two are at the top, and are located at the edge of the dashboard. You may have a foam block in your way. If you do, work around it, but keep in mind any turning action of a screwdriver will likely disintegrate the foam and make a mess of your screwdriver, so you may want to cover it with something. Note however that these two bolts do not thread into sockets like the rest of these bolts, but rather are held on by nyloc nuts, so you'll need a socket behind and in front of the faceplate to remove it.
3) Once the bolts are off, the faceplate should be loose. Tilt it forward.
4) There are four lights that sit out in the open, around the dials. Referencing the HVAC panel, note which ones go where and Remove these one-by-one. Mark them like the other bulbs. The bulbs simply pull out from the back, while the plastic surrounds can be pushed out from behind to pop out towards you. For each plastic surround you remove, reattach it to the new faceplate by pushing it in from the front.
5) The headlight and hazard switches are tricky business. There are four wedge-type catches on the back of them. Using a screwdriver, press these in and one-by-one push the switch through from the back! Grabbing the button part and pulling on it will take it off, and you will find yourself missing parts and needing to order a new switch (I still have no idea what came out of my headlight switch)
6) There are three dials left. The "mode switch" has likely freed itself by now, so you only need to remove two. The one on the left has a large nut that needs to be removed in order for it to be removed from the faceplate. The size was imperial, and I had to use a deep socket for it, but a wrench works fine too. As with the radio nuts, once you get them loose, they come off by hand easily. Rather than bagging and tagging this nut, when you remove the switch, thread it back on. No need to bag and tag if it's already together!
7) The switch on the right is the last thing standing between you and getting the faceplate off. With a screwdriver (or, preferably, a trim panel removal tool), wiggle it free from the front. The white square needs to be pried forward. The rest is pretty straightforward.
The rest is the reverse of everything above.
Enjoy your new radio! :thumbup:
http://vin559.com/images/work_done/cupholder/resized/cupholder05_640.jpg
Needless to say, this will take a while. I was mostly "flying blind", so it took me 4-5 hours, but your mileage may vary. If anyone who has gone through this process has pictures, it would be most appreciated!
First and foremost, bag and tag absolutely every nut and bolt you remove so you know where it goes later. You can never be too careful with this. Second, and I cannot stress this enough: disconnect the battery!!! You are messing with electronics here, I can guarantee you that if you do not do this, damage will result in one way or the other. Don't skimp on this one!
Third, and this will be more applicable as this how-to gets older and older: before reading this entire write-up, read the subsequent replies. They will provide valuable input (and possibly pictures!) that will be helpful to remember when following this write-up. Then, and only then, read the write-up with those replies in mind. Believe me, it helps! :)
Shifter surround
1) Remove as much of the shifter knob as possible. For manuals, this means removing the ball and boot/gate. For automatics, this means removing the handle, retaining nut, metal piece, and spring.
2) Unscrew the shifter surround via the two screws by the armrest. It should now be loose on that end.
3) Pry up the shifter surround by the loose end. You should see a bunch of wires.
4) Mark the wires that go into the rheostat and their positions (for me it was 1, 3, and 4) and disconnect them.
5) Disconnect the wire going to the clock (if applicable)
6) On Automatics, disconnect the PRND21 light (the gear selection indicator light). I couldn't figure this one out, so I unclipped the white housing from the shifter surround and left it connected.
7) Pull up on the shifter surround until it is removed. If neither you nor the PO have done this before, chances are it'll take a lot of force to break the clips that hold this in place free. They are located at the very front of the surround, on the left and right corners. Remember: don't pry on the plastic, but rather on the clips themselves. Prying on the plastic can result in breaking the shifter surround. Use a long flat screwdriver or trim panel removal tool to break them free.
Armrest
1) On the bracket that the shifter surround screws screw into, there are two bolts on either side. On mine, the size was 5/16", but your mileage may vary. Unscrew both of these.
2) Remove the rear tray behind the armrest via the two screws. I think there were two more 5/16" bolts here plainly visible, although I'm not sure on that one.
3) Remove the ashtray by sliding it open, then pulling up on the tab. This will give you something to hold onto when removing the center trim.
4) Carefully pull up and unplug both window switches, the defroster switch, and remove both dummy switches (or any aftermarket switches you may have installed)
HVAC Controls
1) Pull the three knobs off the HVAC controls For later reference, the outer two are identical, while the inner one has a line on both sides and a different connection style
2) Behind the "mode switch" (the center dial), there is a very small but long screw. Using a small screwdriver (a small phillips "bit" works great here), unscrew and remove it.
3) The HVAC panel will now be loose. Carefully pull it away from the faceplate by tilting the top downwards. There are three bulbs that go into spaces in the bottom part -- the ordering of these three is IMPORTANT! Usually after 30 years, the wiring has solidified into place and you can more or less figure out which bulb goes where, but it never hurts to mark which bulb goes where ("1", "2", and "3").
4) [to be followed when directions are reversed for reassembly] The "mode switch" has a nasty tendency to fall behind the faceplate. With the radio removed, it's fairly easy to push it back into place, however if the radio must be installed (as was the case with mine), it is still possible to reach in where the vents used to be and wiggle it into place. It's harder, but it's more about figuring out where the rod for the dial is and lining it up than anything.
Vent
1) Grabbing the center column of the vent, carefully pull it out. You may have to use a screwdriver to get both the top and bottom to come out at once (for me it was either-or without it).
2) There are two rubber boots that connect the vent to the whatchamacallit behind it. Removal is easy, however reinstallation can be hard as they deform easily. One tip I read is to put them in the freezer for a couple hours, so when you remove them, throw them in the freezer before proceeding. Once they are snug on the vents, they usually do not move much and reinstallation is a breeze.
Craig/ASI Radio
1) First, pull the dials off of the radio.
2) There are two thin hex nuts that hold the radio in place. You can either use a deep socket for these or a wrench (don't recall the size offhand). Once they're loose, they come off easily with your hands.
3) There is a trim piece that these hex nuts hold down with diagrams for the knobs. Remove it.
4) The radio should now fall backwards. Push it back a bit further until it is completely behind the panel
5) Using the space the radio was previously in, push the radio up and out the space where the vents previously resided
6) At some point, the radio will "snag" -- disconnect the antenna and any wires from the radio, then remove
Knee pads
This one needs no step directions as it's a simple matter of unscrewing four nuts on the driver's side, and six nuts on the passenger side. Here's some notes however:
- The driver's side has two kneepads. You only need to remove the right one (or, in the case of right-hand drive DeLoreans, the left one), which has four nuts. While it is not absolutely necessary, loosening the steering wheel and pushing it all the way up helps accessibility of the nuts drastically
- The passenger side has one kneepad, which has six nuts (four on the bottom, two on the top corners). There is also a vent that goes to the door, which takes about two seconds to disconnect and reconnect.
- Nut sizes are either 5/16" or 10mm (I don't recall offhand). Often they are nylocs, but if you're lucky, you'll get regular nuts. Nylocs tend to grip the studs too tight and cause them to back out when you attempt to remove them. Nylocs provide no added benefit, so do yourself a favor and buy about 10-15 regular nuts that also fit the same threads. You'll thank yourself later.
- If a stud comes out, it will remain in the bracket, and you'll need a flathead screwdriver to remove the nut. If this happens, use two regular nuts tightened against each other to reinstall the stud. Do NOT tighten the nut all the way and use that to tighten the stud. While this may seem logical, the nut will become too tight to remove, and will bring the stud back out with it. Two nuts tightened together on the shaft will provide leverage, while allowing one-at-a-time removal to keep the stud in place.
- When you reassemble everything, hand-tighten ONLY! This will secure the kneepad, prevent the studs from coming out he next time, and also allow you to not need tools next time you need to remove them
Center trim
1) Now that you've removed the kneepads, there are two brackets for the lower studs for said kneepads that screw into the center trim. Using a phillips screwdriver, remove both. Bag and tag.
2) The moment of truth, trying to move the center trim! Grabbing behind the area of the rear tray, gently pull up on the trim. It should take a little bit of force, but does not require muscle to remove. If it's not coming up, you missed a nut, bolt, or screw somewhere. Figure out where the "snag" is coming from and address it.
3) When you're moving the center trim, move it rearwards roughly to the point in the picture above. This allows the cigarette lighter to remain connected while still giving you plenty of access to remove the faceplate.
Faceplate
The first thing you'll notice is that access behind the faceplate is suddenly opened up drastically. This will come in handy later when reassembling everything.
1) There are two ground screws on either side of the faceplate. The one on the driver's side has one wire, while the one on the passenger side has three. Remove these bolts. Bag and tag.
2) There are four bolts holding the faceplate in place. Two (at the bottom) have already been removed. The remaining two are at the top, and are located at the edge of the dashboard. You may have a foam block in your way. If you do, work around it, but keep in mind any turning action of a screwdriver will likely disintegrate the foam and make a mess of your screwdriver, so you may want to cover it with something. Note however that these two bolts do not thread into sockets like the rest of these bolts, but rather are held on by nyloc nuts, so you'll need a socket behind and in front of the faceplate to remove it.
3) Once the bolts are off, the faceplate should be loose. Tilt it forward.
4) There are four lights that sit out in the open, around the dials. Referencing the HVAC panel, note which ones go where and Remove these one-by-one. Mark them like the other bulbs. The bulbs simply pull out from the back, while the plastic surrounds can be pushed out from behind to pop out towards you. For each plastic surround you remove, reattach it to the new faceplate by pushing it in from the front.
5) The headlight and hazard switches are tricky business. There are four wedge-type catches on the back of them. Using a screwdriver, press these in and one-by-one push the switch through from the back! Grabbing the button part and pulling on it will take it off, and you will find yourself missing parts and needing to order a new switch (I still have no idea what came out of my headlight switch)
6) There are three dials left. The "mode switch" has likely freed itself by now, so you only need to remove two. The one on the left has a large nut that needs to be removed in order for it to be removed from the faceplate. The size was imperial, and I had to use a deep socket for it, but a wrench works fine too. As with the radio nuts, once you get them loose, they come off by hand easily. Rather than bagging and tagging this nut, when you remove the switch, thread it back on. No need to bag and tag if it's already together!
7) The switch on the right is the last thing standing between you and getting the faceplate off. With a screwdriver (or, preferably, a trim panel removal tool), wiggle it free from the front. The white square needs to be pried forward. The rest is pretty straightforward.
The rest is the reverse of everything above.
Enjoy your new radio! :thumbup: