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View Full Version : How To: Rebuild Steering Rack



Ron
08-22-2013, 11:15 PM
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/Steering%20Rack%20Rebuild/Steering%20Rack.pdf

ALEXAKOS
10-15-2013, 09:11 AM
http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/Steering%20Rack%20Rebuild/Steering%20Rack.pdf

All I wish to add to this tutorial is that the PVC used to guide the inner bar, needs some shafts to allow the fluid to move in and out of the rack.
Just like the original part did. The way this fella sealed the gateway between the two ends, it will create hydrolic pressure between the two ends making the steering rack stiffer.

Images supplied soon;)

Spittybug
10-15-2013, 12:14 PM
Good point, maybe...

When I did mine I also have it as a tight fit, minimizing the fluid transfer. I was thinking that it might be a problem for the passenger side tie rod joint inside the boot, but I can't see how that joint would ever be "bathed" in fluid anyway. I ended up inserting a pin through the side wall of the rack tube into the bushing, so I'm sure I won't have to worry about any hydraulic pressure popping my bushing out. Thinking about it though, there really isn't a lot of force to push the fluid around. The rack moves relatively slowly and there isn't any kind of tube pressurization since the other end is open.

ALEXAKOS
10-15-2013, 01:43 PM
That is a strong argument Owen.:thumbup:
I just noticed the original part that was grabbing the rod only at 50% of its total surface leaving 4 blanks in between. First thought was liquids passage, second was also less friction and air passage. Since the boots are tightly sealed on both ends, it leaves little "communication" between the two compartments left and right from that PVC tube replacement.

I am actually reproducing those with Polyurethane replacements of that seal as well as the filler inner cap as that was also melted... for some reason.

Will have photos in 2 days.:raveon:

ALEXAKOS
10-17-2013, 08:10 AM
Right, here are the originals next to the copies I made with poly.
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz135/alex-akos/delo%20resto/null_zps9074bbaf.jpg
Right the melted filler cap knob left my replacement
Goes like this:
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz135/alex-akos/delo%20resto/null_zps05de6976.jpg
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz135/alex-akos/delo%20resto/null_zpsb8e11c18.jpg

Then the centering cylinder that was ripped.
Left the original, right my poly repro
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz135/alex-akos/delo%20resto/null_zps56af3bfc.jpg
notice how large the gaps are on the original. I believe the main reason is minimal friction cause it was made of hard rubber


fitting
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz135/alex-akos/delo%20resto/null_zps6421c81b.jpg
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz135/alex-akos/delo%20resto/null_zps4a63f131.jpg

I rounded up the sharp corners