Shep
08-25-2013, 09:48 PM
After borking my upper speedometer cable where it connects to the Lambda Service Counter, I finally decided to go for the long speedometer cable option. Hervey sells one for $90, but you can make one in parts for less than $20. With Hervey's cable, what you're paying for is the labor in making the part. It's actually very easy to make. Unfortunately, all I had to go on was a couple part numbers (very minor thanks to Bill) and zero actual information on how to actually build the damn thing (zero thanks to Bill, after how many years of making his first one?). As a result, I made an error in the first long cable, and now have to make a second one. But fortunately for everyone here, I documented the entire process, and made this write-up.
First things first, you'll need a 61" speedometer cable fitting a 1971 Pontiac GTO (how appropriate :) ). It also fits a wide variety of other cars (1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass, 1985 Plymouth Reliant, 1987 Buick Regal), but that one's still quite popular in the classic car community. You'll also need a universal speedometer cable kit for the tip.
AutoZone/O'reilly's part numbers:
CA-3005 (GTO cable)
03369 (universal kit)
Advance Auto Parts part numbers:
03158 (GTO cable)
03368 (universal kit)
If you use any other auto parts carriers, reference any of the cars listed above, but make sure it's a 61" cable -- Advance Auto Parts for example sells cables that have the correct ends, but are far longer and a bit pricier.
And here's the tools you'll need for this process:
http://vin559.com/images/tutorials/long_bypass_speedometer_cable/resized/bypasscable01_toolsneeded_640.jpg
Pictured, from left to right:
- Electrical wire strippers (including "ignition terminal" section)
- Pliers (any type will work)
- Metal shears and/or hacksaw
Not pictured:
- Phillips screwdriver.
- Drill, with drill bits
Once you have the parts and the tools, it's time to pull the old speedometer cable. The full assembly, not just the upper or lower one. First, unscrew both speedometer cables from the Lambda Service Counter. There's two Phillips screws holding on the Lambda Service Counter and one plug you need to unplug. Then, wiggle the lower speedometer cable from the driver's footwell so you know where it feeds into.
Using a camera with flash (or a flashlight), take pictures of how it's routed. This may be easier on a jack, but I was able to do it easily without too much contorting. Once you've taken the pictures, reach around the driver's wheel (no need for a jack at this point, you can easily go by feel) and unscrew the lower speedometer cable from the angle drive. Then, following the directions here (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?5085-Binnacle-Removal-and-Bulb-Replacement), remove the binnacle. The upper speedometer cable is held on by a clip. Simply press the part of the clip below the speedometer cable, and it'll pop right out. Don't twist it unless you want an inaccurate odometer.
Now that you have both speedometer cables and the Lambda Service Counter box off of the car, reconnect everything and lay them flat on the ground next to the new GTO cable You'll probably need two heavy weights to prevent the speedometer from uncurling. You can see here that I used both of my old intake manifolds to hold in in place:
http://vin559.com/images/tutorials/long_bypass_speedometer_cable/resized/bypasscable02_640.jpg
Now measure the old cable from end to end. I don't recall offhand what the measurement was, but it's best to use your own measurement for consistency. Remember: as a bypass, it'll need to be the same length overall. Now, before you go any further, on the new GTO cable, pull the inner portion (the part that turns) towards the angle drive until the part by the binnacle looks like this:
http://vin559.com/images/tutorials/long_bypass_speedometer_cable/resized/bypasscable03_640.jpg
(new on the left, old on the right)
Use the old upper speedometer cable as a reference for how far in it should go. The O'reilly's cable had a nut on the binnacle end designed to prevent it from going back too far. Do NOT cut off the binnacle end of the cable! This was the mistake that cost me a cable. Here's a picture of what NOT to do:
http://vin559.com/images/tutorials/long_bypass_speedometer_cable/resized/bypasscable04_640.jpg
But, lesson learned, and it'll save a lot of people following this tutorial from making the same mistake, a small price to pay (less than $20 to be exact ;) ) for pointing out the caveats to this process.
Once you've made sure the cable is seated and lengthened properly on the binnacle end, it's time to cut the cable to length. Using the measurement you took from the old setup, cut the new cable to that same length using either the metal shears or the hacksaw. Keep in mind that "give or take half an inch" doesn't matter much for the length of this cable, so it doesn't have to be 100% precise. If it's slightly too long, you can just pull up the slack through the driver's footwell.
Now that you've cut it to length, it's time to check the length of the binnacle-attached cable again (you can never be too careful!) So verify that it looks like this:
http://vin559.com/images/tutorials/long_bypass_speedometer_cable/resized/bypasscable03_640.jpg
And if it does, go to the other end of the cable and strip the wire bare. To do this, give yourself about 3/8" (1 cm) to work with, and use the 10-gauge wire stripper. This works shockingly well with your average, run-of-the-mill wire strippers, as beefy as this cable is, so don't worry about any "starter cuts".
Remember that universal speedometer cable kit you bought? Here's where you're going to use it. Inside the package is a little bag, containing a metal shim and the tip to the cable. Grab the tip, and put it onto the end of the new GTO cable you just exposed. Using the wire crimpers, crimp the tip on. Make sure it's 100% secure by giving it a light tug. If the cable comes with it, use the pliers on the binnacle end to pull it back, referencing the previous picture (or your old upper cable) for positioning.
Here comes the point of no return: cutting your old cable. Now, due to the fact that upper and lower speedometer cable share the same lower end to them, you'll have two shots at this. If you screw up once (like I did), you still have another end to use. On the upper cable, this is the part that attaches to the Lambda Service Counter. On the lower cable, this is the part that attaches to the angle drive. They are identical, so choose whichever cable is broken more (or is cheaper to replace, if you're looking to sell off the surviving cable), and cut the cable off short of the end. Give yourself about half an inch (1.25 cm) of cable to work with, leaving the end intact.
Keep in mind: the construction of the two speedometer cables is vastly different. The OEM DeLorean cable is wrapped in one spiraling piece of metal covered in a thin layer of rubber, which ate up my metal shears, whereas the new speedometer cable has tiny metal strands that run the length of the cable embedded in the rubber, which my metal shears had zero problem handling. This is why I recommended the metal shears or a hacksaw -- a hacksaw would've been a better tool for this job.
Now that you've cut the end off, grab the drill, a properly sized drill bit (I believe 5/16" was the correct size, but I'm not 100% sure on that) Using gloves and pliers to hold the crimp-on end, drill out the OEM cable remnants from the crimp-on end. Once you've done that, take the crimp-on end, plus the nut for that end (OPTIONAL: also grab the grommet from the lower speedometer cable), and go over to your new cable. Slide the nut on first, then slide the crimp-on end on. Hold it in place with your hand first. It should look like this:
http://vin559.com/images/tutorials/long_bypass_speedometer_cable/resized/bypasscable05_640.jpg
The reason I show you this is so that you remember to put the nut in place. Can't use the cable without the nut! :) Now then, test the inner cable to see how easily it turns. You'll want it to continue turning with this ease -- any harder and you're putting strain on the angle drive, causing premature failure. With the electrical strippers, there should be a section labeled "ignition terminals" (or similar). It's the biggest hole on there. Slowly crimp the end incrementally, verifying that the end turns just as easily as before you started crimping. If it gets any harder to turn, STOP, grab the pliers, and squeeze at a 90* offset to loosen the crimp. Repeat so you have two (or even three) crimps. The end should now look like this:
http://vin559.com/images/tutorials/long_bypass_speedometer_cable/resized/bypasscable06_640.jpg
Shazam, you now have a longer bypass speedometer cable! Here's where you install it: first, oil the cable. You may not need any additional oil if the old angle drive and speedometer still have plenty of oil (mine did), but it doesn't hurt to add more. Next, block the wheels and jack the car up following the directions here (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1411-Proper-use-of-the-floor-jack-and-jack-stands-on-the-front-and-rear-of-the-DeLorean).
Once you've got it jacked up safely, go behind the driver's footwell and start routing the longer bypass speedometer cable in the same route the original lower speedometer cable took, binnacle end first (it's easier to maneuver the cable with the narrower end). Once the cable's routed roughly the same way the original one was, connect it to the angle drive. Then, route it through the firewall. If you opted to have the grommet transferred as well, plug that in place too. Next, route it in the same space as the upper speedometer cable, and connect it to the binnacle. Reinstall the binnacle, and you're done!
Enjoy your new speedometer cabling setup! :wrenchin:
First things first, you'll need a 61" speedometer cable fitting a 1971 Pontiac GTO (how appropriate :) ). It also fits a wide variety of other cars (1987 Oldsmobile Cutlass, 1985 Plymouth Reliant, 1987 Buick Regal), but that one's still quite popular in the classic car community. You'll also need a universal speedometer cable kit for the tip.
AutoZone/O'reilly's part numbers:
CA-3005 (GTO cable)
03369 (universal kit)
Advance Auto Parts part numbers:
03158 (GTO cable)
03368 (universal kit)
If you use any other auto parts carriers, reference any of the cars listed above, but make sure it's a 61" cable -- Advance Auto Parts for example sells cables that have the correct ends, but are far longer and a bit pricier.
And here's the tools you'll need for this process:
http://vin559.com/images/tutorials/long_bypass_speedometer_cable/resized/bypasscable01_toolsneeded_640.jpg
Pictured, from left to right:
- Electrical wire strippers (including "ignition terminal" section)
- Pliers (any type will work)
- Metal shears and/or hacksaw
Not pictured:
- Phillips screwdriver.
- Drill, with drill bits
Once you have the parts and the tools, it's time to pull the old speedometer cable. The full assembly, not just the upper or lower one. First, unscrew both speedometer cables from the Lambda Service Counter. There's two Phillips screws holding on the Lambda Service Counter and one plug you need to unplug. Then, wiggle the lower speedometer cable from the driver's footwell so you know where it feeds into.
Using a camera with flash (or a flashlight), take pictures of how it's routed. This may be easier on a jack, but I was able to do it easily without too much contorting. Once you've taken the pictures, reach around the driver's wheel (no need for a jack at this point, you can easily go by feel) and unscrew the lower speedometer cable from the angle drive. Then, following the directions here (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?5085-Binnacle-Removal-and-Bulb-Replacement), remove the binnacle. The upper speedometer cable is held on by a clip. Simply press the part of the clip below the speedometer cable, and it'll pop right out. Don't twist it unless you want an inaccurate odometer.
Now that you have both speedometer cables and the Lambda Service Counter box off of the car, reconnect everything and lay them flat on the ground next to the new GTO cable You'll probably need two heavy weights to prevent the speedometer from uncurling. You can see here that I used both of my old intake manifolds to hold in in place:
http://vin559.com/images/tutorials/long_bypass_speedometer_cable/resized/bypasscable02_640.jpg
Now measure the old cable from end to end. I don't recall offhand what the measurement was, but it's best to use your own measurement for consistency. Remember: as a bypass, it'll need to be the same length overall. Now, before you go any further, on the new GTO cable, pull the inner portion (the part that turns) towards the angle drive until the part by the binnacle looks like this:
http://vin559.com/images/tutorials/long_bypass_speedometer_cable/resized/bypasscable03_640.jpg
(new on the left, old on the right)
Use the old upper speedometer cable as a reference for how far in it should go. The O'reilly's cable had a nut on the binnacle end designed to prevent it from going back too far. Do NOT cut off the binnacle end of the cable! This was the mistake that cost me a cable. Here's a picture of what NOT to do:
http://vin559.com/images/tutorials/long_bypass_speedometer_cable/resized/bypasscable04_640.jpg
But, lesson learned, and it'll save a lot of people following this tutorial from making the same mistake, a small price to pay (less than $20 to be exact ;) ) for pointing out the caveats to this process.
Once you've made sure the cable is seated and lengthened properly on the binnacle end, it's time to cut the cable to length. Using the measurement you took from the old setup, cut the new cable to that same length using either the metal shears or the hacksaw. Keep in mind that "give or take half an inch" doesn't matter much for the length of this cable, so it doesn't have to be 100% precise. If it's slightly too long, you can just pull up the slack through the driver's footwell.
Now that you've cut it to length, it's time to check the length of the binnacle-attached cable again (you can never be too careful!) So verify that it looks like this:
http://vin559.com/images/tutorials/long_bypass_speedometer_cable/resized/bypasscable03_640.jpg
And if it does, go to the other end of the cable and strip the wire bare. To do this, give yourself about 3/8" (1 cm) to work with, and use the 10-gauge wire stripper. This works shockingly well with your average, run-of-the-mill wire strippers, as beefy as this cable is, so don't worry about any "starter cuts".
Remember that universal speedometer cable kit you bought? Here's where you're going to use it. Inside the package is a little bag, containing a metal shim and the tip to the cable. Grab the tip, and put it onto the end of the new GTO cable you just exposed. Using the wire crimpers, crimp the tip on. Make sure it's 100% secure by giving it a light tug. If the cable comes with it, use the pliers on the binnacle end to pull it back, referencing the previous picture (or your old upper cable) for positioning.
Here comes the point of no return: cutting your old cable. Now, due to the fact that upper and lower speedometer cable share the same lower end to them, you'll have two shots at this. If you screw up once (like I did), you still have another end to use. On the upper cable, this is the part that attaches to the Lambda Service Counter. On the lower cable, this is the part that attaches to the angle drive. They are identical, so choose whichever cable is broken more (or is cheaper to replace, if you're looking to sell off the surviving cable), and cut the cable off short of the end. Give yourself about half an inch (1.25 cm) of cable to work with, leaving the end intact.
Keep in mind: the construction of the two speedometer cables is vastly different. The OEM DeLorean cable is wrapped in one spiraling piece of metal covered in a thin layer of rubber, which ate up my metal shears, whereas the new speedometer cable has tiny metal strands that run the length of the cable embedded in the rubber, which my metal shears had zero problem handling. This is why I recommended the metal shears or a hacksaw -- a hacksaw would've been a better tool for this job.
Now that you've cut the end off, grab the drill, a properly sized drill bit (I believe 5/16" was the correct size, but I'm not 100% sure on that) Using gloves and pliers to hold the crimp-on end, drill out the OEM cable remnants from the crimp-on end. Once you've done that, take the crimp-on end, plus the nut for that end (OPTIONAL: also grab the grommet from the lower speedometer cable), and go over to your new cable. Slide the nut on first, then slide the crimp-on end on. Hold it in place with your hand first. It should look like this:
http://vin559.com/images/tutorials/long_bypass_speedometer_cable/resized/bypasscable05_640.jpg
The reason I show you this is so that you remember to put the nut in place. Can't use the cable without the nut! :) Now then, test the inner cable to see how easily it turns. You'll want it to continue turning with this ease -- any harder and you're putting strain on the angle drive, causing premature failure. With the electrical strippers, there should be a section labeled "ignition terminals" (or similar). It's the biggest hole on there. Slowly crimp the end incrementally, verifying that the end turns just as easily as before you started crimping. If it gets any harder to turn, STOP, grab the pliers, and squeeze at a 90* offset to loosen the crimp. Repeat so you have two (or even three) crimps. The end should now look like this:
http://vin559.com/images/tutorials/long_bypass_speedometer_cable/resized/bypasscable06_640.jpg
Shazam, you now have a longer bypass speedometer cable! Here's where you install it: first, oil the cable. You may not need any additional oil if the old angle drive and speedometer still have plenty of oil (mine did), but it doesn't hurt to add more. Next, block the wheels and jack the car up following the directions here (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1411-Proper-use-of-the-floor-jack-and-jack-stands-on-the-front-and-rear-of-the-DeLorean).
Once you've got it jacked up safely, go behind the driver's footwell and start routing the longer bypass speedometer cable in the same route the original lower speedometer cable took, binnacle end first (it's easier to maneuver the cable with the narrower end). Once the cable's routed roughly the same way the original one was, connect it to the angle drive. Then, route it through the firewall. If you opted to have the grommet transferred as well, plug that in place too. Next, route it in the same space as the upper speedometer cable, and connect it to the binnacle. Reinstall the binnacle, and you're done!
Enjoy your new speedometer cabling setup! :wrenchin: