nkemp
09-10-2013, 11:53 AM
Replacing the blower fan speed switch is relatively easy.
Remove the blower, mode & temperature knobs
Remove the single screw holding the faceplate & carefully remove the faceplate
Remove the three lamps (fan fail, defroster, AC)
Now is a good time to carefully clean it including any dust on the back side near the lamps
Now is also a good time to install LED's if not done so already
Using a small flat blade screwdriver, insert it near the top of the blower switch and carefully depress the spring. (see the spring in the first picture)
Insert your finger through the hole to the left of the switch and motivate the top of the switch to move out a bit. The switch will angle in doing so since the bottom will stay in.
Using an appropriate size flat blade screwdriver, insert it under the light tan spacer around the switch (see picture). Gently push it up compressing the spring in doing so
Using your fingers through the hole, motivate the switch bottom to come out
Separate the old switch from the socket
Inspect the socket for damage or poor quality.
On mine, the #2 speed pin showed signs of overheating which likely caused the sw failure. The #2 socket did not seat itself properly like the others. When I reassembled, I made sure I pushed the #2 wire out to properly engage the sw spade connector. I may also wire a relay around it like speeds 3 & 4 bu that is a separate discussion
Remove the spacer/gasket from the old switch. To do so, on the spring side, move the spacer back a bit onto the spring. Then, while pushing the spacer against the spring, push the bottom past the directional nibs. Note these nibs on the new switch because that is what makes re-instillation hard and proper.
Put the spacer on the new sw. Slide it up to the spring. compress it against the spring and slide over the directional nibs on the bottom.
The spacer provides a snug and secure sw fit. Be careful to not break it. If you do, you can buy a new one or fabricate one (poster board, cereal box, other?)
Put a it of silicone grease (dielectric grease) in the socket or on the sw spades
Put the sw on the connector making sure all sockets are secure.
If you have a loose connector, hold by the wire (not the female connector housing) while putting the sw into the connector.
Slide the sw into the hole. Insert the switch spring part first into the hole and the sw will be at a slight angle.
Insert a screwdriver under the gasket/spacer and carefully push it up while pushing the bottom part of the sw into the hole. Doing this step as described makes installation easy. Otherwise getting the sw to seat properly is difficult. If the sw is not seated fully, the knob will be at an angle against the faceplate when complete.
Reinstall the faceplate
Reinstall the knobs
check for proper switch position by rotating the know full clockwise or counterclockwise. Then reinstall the know pointing towards the proper number.
The first two pictures show the switch, spacer and spring on the top.
The third picture shows using a screwdriver to compress the top spring when removing or installing the sw (you actually have to push it up a bit with your hand.
218782187921881
Other posts have suggested opening and trying to repair the switch. I noticed that it looks just like the VW Jetta 81'ish switch (must have 5 pins) and ordered one for $10. It feels much better than the old one ever did. So don't bother trying to repair the switch.
Now mine looks perfect, works better and feels much better than before.
Remove the blower, mode & temperature knobs
Remove the single screw holding the faceplate & carefully remove the faceplate
Remove the three lamps (fan fail, defroster, AC)
Now is a good time to carefully clean it including any dust on the back side near the lamps
Now is also a good time to install LED's if not done so already
Using a small flat blade screwdriver, insert it near the top of the blower switch and carefully depress the spring. (see the spring in the first picture)
Insert your finger through the hole to the left of the switch and motivate the top of the switch to move out a bit. The switch will angle in doing so since the bottom will stay in.
Using an appropriate size flat blade screwdriver, insert it under the light tan spacer around the switch (see picture). Gently push it up compressing the spring in doing so
Using your fingers through the hole, motivate the switch bottom to come out
Separate the old switch from the socket
Inspect the socket for damage or poor quality.
On mine, the #2 speed pin showed signs of overheating which likely caused the sw failure. The #2 socket did not seat itself properly like the others. When I reassembled, I made sure I pushed the #2 wire out to properly engage the sw spade connector. I may also wire a relay around it like speeds 3 & 4 bu that is a separate discussion
Remove the spacer/gasket from the old switch. To do so, on the spring side, move the spacer back a bit onto the spring. Then, while pushing the spacer against the spring, push the bottom past the directional nibs. Note these nibs on the new switch because that is what makes re-instillation hard and proper.
Put the spacer on the new sw. Slide it up to the spring. compress it against the spring and slide over the directional nibs on the bottom.
The spacer provides a snug and secure sw fit. Be careful to not break it. If you do, you can buy a new one or fabricate one (poster board, cereal box, other?)
Put a it of silicone grease (dielectric grease) in the socket or on the sw spades
Put the sw on the connector making sure all sockets are secure.
If you have a loose connector, hold by the wire (not the female connector housing) while putting the sw into the connector.
Slide the sw into the hole. Insert the switch spring part first into the hole and the sw will be at a slight angle.
Insert a screwdriver under the gasket/spacer and carefully push it up while pushing the bottom part of the sw into the hole. Doing this step as described makes installation easy. Otherwise getting the sw to seat properly is difficult. If the sw is not seated fully, the knob will be at an angle against the faceplate when complete.
Reinstall the faceplate
Reinstall the knobs
check for proper switch position by rotating the know full clockwise or counterclockwise. Then reinstall the know pointing towards the proper number.
The first two pictures show the switch, spacer and spring on the top.
The third picture shows using a screwdriver to compress the top spring when removing or installing the sw (you actually have to push it up a bit with your hand.
218782187921881
Other posts have suggested opening and trying to repair the switch. I noticed that it looks just like the VW Jetta 81'ish switch (must have 5 pins) and ordered one for $10. It feels much better than the old one ever did. So don't bother trying to repair the switch.
Now mine looks perfect, works better and feels much better than before.