How To: Change the window motors (instructions from A1)

[Totally 80s]

When I was having problems with my window motor I called A1 electrics and asked them some questions. They sent me everything they had on the motor and instructions on how to replace it. I thought I would share what they gave me. They told me this stuff usually goes to mechanics and not private individuals because that is who they mostly sell to. Just thought it may help someone along the way. Here are their written instructions followed by the photos they sent me.

A 1 WINDOW MOTOR REGULATOR

Removal of DeLorean Window Regulator
and
Installation of A 1 Electric Window Regulator


Tools and Materials Needed:

Duct tape
Long flat face screw driver ( 14” or longer shaft)
10-12” long extension bar or smooth tool
Large Phillips screw driver
10 mm socket
¼ “ eight inch extension bar.
Socket wrench
10 mm x 12 mm long, fine thread machine screw ( two for two motors )
10 mm fine thread nut ( two for two motors )
Super glue

Note do not use electrical harness supplied.








1.Remove upper and lower interior trim panels per instructions in DeLorean service manual. Follow instructions to avoid damage and difficulty.
2.Apply duct tape to stainless steel service access openings to avoid cutting hands.
3.Tape moveable window to allow lowering window approx. 2”
4.Note, when moveable window is separated from regulator, it can slide off guides and drop down into interior of door.
5.Remove screws holding DeLorean motor bracket to the door.
6.Remove bracket screws from window regulator and remove bracket from door.
7.Remove elbow screw from door pull handle.
8.Disconnect DeLorean motor terminal connection wire leads at the motor and note polarity.
9.Move motor toward front of door so as to lower the moveable window approx, 2”.
10.Remove the two nuts connecting the regulator tube butterfly tab to window rail.
11.Remove DeLorean motor and regulator tube from interior of door.
12.Remove four screws connecting door pull handle bracket and remove bracket from door.
13.Disconnect door lock rod on one end and lower out of way.
14.Remove A 1 Electric mounting bracket screws.
15.Super glue black spacers to back side of bracket.
16.Remove motor from the mounting bracket after noting the exact position of the ¼ square drive in the bracket hole,(suggest using magic marker).
17.Place A 1 Electric motor inside door at same location as original motor by inserting regulator tube inside door through the service access opening.
18.Insert motor mount bracket and reconnect to the motor noting the exact position of the ¼” square drive. Note, if misalignment has occurred, use ¼ ”socket extension to realign.
19.Note that three black spacers are in place.
20.Connect the regulator tube butterfly to the window rail and install the two nuts.
21.Insert pull handle bracket into place but do not insert the four screws at this time.
22.Connect the regulator tube lower tab to the pull handle bracket using the bracket hole nearest the back of edge of door or rear of car.

23.Thread the 25 mm screw one- half way into bracket hole.
24.Install the four door handle bracket screws and tighten.
25.Tighten the 25 mm screw the remaining length.
26.Connect the motor wiring keeping connector’s flat side face to face. Test polarities by operating the window switch; reverse wires if necessary.
27.Place one of the offset mounting brackets at the side of the motor through the service access opening.
28.Place flat side of bracket to the door bottom screw hole nearest rear of car.(It is easier to install the screw from the inside of the access opening and apply the washer and nut from motor has been mounted the outside of the service access opening).
29. Connect the opposite end of the offset bracket to the motor mount using the threaded hole nearest the red tube. Use a 10 mm short screw so as not to contact motor when tightened.
30.Use a 10-12’ long dull rod, push the red tube toward the front of the door . Note, the red retraction tube is a guide to direct the regulator coil spring without restriction.
31.Remove tape from movable window .
32.Motor has been mounted. Before raising and lowering the window , loosen the two rear window rail nuts, raise and lower the window two or three times with the window switch for self alignment of the rail.
33.Tighten the two rail nuts.
34.Raise and lower the window. If the window tends to bind when lowering, rearrange red retraction tube to eliminate restriction .
35.Raise and lower window several times to locate the red retraction tube in proper position.
36.Tighten all screws and nuts.
37.Reconnect the door lock rod.
38.Remove duct tap from service access openings.
39.Install the door trim panels per manual instructions.

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[Dangermouse]

Very useful. Thanks for accumulating and posting

[Mark D]

Thanks, this should be very helpful when I swap window motors next year :thumbup:

[ALEXAKOS]

nice walk through.:thumbup:
Numbering helps keep track while working at the same time.
There was also a quite helpful video of that work on you tube fro anyone like me who can't help him self reading more than 3 lines of text:strongman:

[sean]

Ha! I can't believe those instructions are still floating with A1. Byrne and I wrote those, took the pictures and sent them to A1 over 8 years ago. Wow, flashback!

[robvanderveer]

can anybody tell me where to find the adjuster bolts indicated by step 32?

[D Knight]

Has anyone ever wondered why they supply the wrong wiring with it if it's supposed to be for a DeLorean? Makes you wonder why, for the price they want, they wouldn't just fix that problem before it ships.


-D Knight-

[DeLorean03]

Has anyone ever wondered why they supply the wrong wiring with it if it's supposed to be for a DeLorean? Makes you wonder why, for the price they want, they wouldn't just fix that problem before it ships.


-D Knight-

$470 for a pair is not THAT bad when you consider the other option$.

[DMCMW Dave]

Has anyone ever wondered why they supply the wrong wiring with it if it's supposed to be for a DeLorean? Makes you wonder why, for the price they want, they wouldn't just fix that problem before it ships. -


I've often wondered the same thing. As far as I know it's intended for this application only, although I'll bet the electric motor is somewhat universal, and our quantities are pretty small in comparison to whatever else it is used on. So they don't bother.

[robvanderveer]

can anybody tell me where to find the adjuster bolts indicated by step 32?
found it
27943

[DMCMW Dave]

found it
27943

Take off the lower door panel and look up.

[robvanderveer]

Take off the lower door panel and look up.

Looking up is always a good suggestions:worship::worship:

[robvanderveer]

it's fixed! thanks everybody!

[zimvsdib]

When I was having problems with my window motor I called A1 electrics and asked them some questions.

2227422275222762227722278

The last image where you see the regulator inside the door body is the original regulator correct? It has a really nice bracket that holds it in place. The A1's come with 2 crappy metal tabs that didn't hold my motor down, the motor assembly would shift when the window hit the to position or bottom position crating tension.
Here is what the A1's look like below.
Has any ones else had issues of a shifting motor once installed? Its like the motor is too powerful for the lame bracket system. Obviously A1 created the cheapest solution, not the best one.
any pointers to get this failed in right?




http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=7822&d=1326860096

[klaus5980]

I took two stainless metal plates from Hagebau (thats the German equivalent of Lowe's)

[GS450-Junkie]

I need to put in new window motors. About how long does it take per side?

[robvanderveer]

If you're lucky, you can be done in 1 hour per side.

In reality though, you need about 632 hours for the first door, and 20 minutes for the other side. :D

[Ron]

if you're lucky, you can be done in 1 hour per side.

In reality though, you need about 632 hours for the first door, and 20 minutes for the other side. :d :hihi2:

[Dangermouse]

If you're lucky, you can be done in 1 hour per side.

In reality though, you need about 632 hours for the first door, and 20 minutes for the other side. :D

definitely a :giggle: there, thanks Rob

[robvanderveer]

You have been a wonderdul audience! Badum-tssss (exit stage and curtain)

[bfloyd]

I'm getting ready to tackle this on Saturday and have a couple of questions regarding the instructions and materials needed.

On the list of materials it says to get two 10 mm machine screws x 12 mm long and the nuts to go with them - used in step #29. I went to Lowe's tonight to pick up two 10 mm machine screws, and a 10mm screw( M10) is actually a big ass bolt about 3/8" in diameter. Is this right? I didn't see anything in the door that would fit in.

Should the instructions say a #10 fine thread machine screw? Big difference in the two .

In the instructions it mentioned some "black spacers". Are these supposed to be included with the A1 regulator or are they already in the door somewhere ?

[DMC5180]

10mm head (M6 x 1.00) 12mm long. I don't recall any spacers but It's been 20 years since I did mine. There is an online video of the procedure .

Search: Delorean Uprated Window Regulator Installation

Video by Martin

[bfloyd]

I started this installation on Saturday - it's is a serious pain. The "spacers" I mentioned above I found are actually included with the new A1 regulator and are located between the motor body and the regulator mounting plate. I used a "gel" super glue to keep my spacers in place while working it all back into the door.

In step # 23, a 25mm length screw magically enters the scene that's noted no where before that step. I took a ton of photos, so hopefully I'll have something to contribute for others who follow afterwards to use as a reference.

[Morpheus]

Not looking forward to this job on my car. Not at all.

[durech]

Yes, pictures please!!!! I wish someone would do a detailed video. While Martin's video is helpful, it is after the fact. One showing the whole process (removal and replacement) would be FANTASTIC and very helpful.

[bfloyd]

After getting it all put back together, getting locked out of my car due to a sticky lock rod, and taking the door panels and doing it again, I think I've finally finished my version of replacing the Delorean window regulator with the new and improved A1 replacement.

First of all for "newbies" like me... in my course of finding the regulator, I checked the websites of several Delorean parts vendors, and it seems they ALL sell the exact same thing. One in particular was about $80-$90 cheaper than the others, so I went with that vendor.

The A1 regulator is NOT a direct drop in replacement, but it's darn near close. The butterfly tab that bolts to the window glass rail lines up perfect. The regulator tube mount tab lines up with the REAR bolt hole of the door pull handle, as opposed to the front bolt hole of the original. The motor mounting bracket is nowhere near close to the original, but with the supplied offset brackets, it can be made to work.

In the "Tools and Materials Needed" list:

Make note that the "10 mm x 12 mm long, fine thread machine screw" is actually an M6 fine thread machine screw. An M6 hex head actually measures 10mm, so you would use a 10mm socket to drive it.

In the list in mentions "super glue". I used a GEL Super Glue" to fix the black spacers to the regulator mounting plate.

The instructions say do not use the supplied electrical harness, in my experience this week.... use it, and crimp two spade terminals on to the stripped ends to connect it all back to the cars wiring harness.

Photos...
Use duct tape or something similar to hold the glass in place while working on the regulator. Make sure to have the window lowered about 2 inches or more to access the two bolts that fix the butterfly tab to the glass rail.
http://i.imgur.com/CPPS5PIl.jpg

The motor of the original regulator is held in with a mounting bracket affixed to the door with 3 - M6 phillips head screws.
http://i.imgur.com/K7QN5Kql.jpg

Bad photo here, but the butterfly tab that holds the existing regulator tube to the glass rail is accessed through this upper hole underneath the black support bracket. Make sure to lower the glass about 2 inches to be able to access the nuts to remove them. (Step #10)
http://i.imgur.com/JheMdO3l.jpg

The mounting tab of the existing original regulator tube is bolted to the back of the door pull handle assembly bracket. (Step #7)
http://i.imgur.com/R6LgeJul.jpg

Once those bolts are removed, the whole thing can be fished out of the door.
http://i.imgur.com/DT9izy0l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/z3zz6Xzl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Q0TUmaGl.jpg

On the existing motor, make sure to note the polarity of the wiring harness. These two black connectors slide right out.
http://i.imgur.com/ydjQx3yl.jpg

Here is the original regulator removed from the door. Like most others, the part that broke was the plastic tube that connects the regulator track to the motor. I've seem online where folks have repaired this with 3/8" PEX piping. I might try that on this for a future replacement if necessary.
http://i.imgur.com/l8wZcdbl.jpg

Here is the back side of the new A1 regulator. Before attempting installation, you'll need to remove the angled mounting brackets, and remove the three bolts that fix the regulator to the motor assembly and separate the motor from the regulator mounting plate.
http://i.imgur.com/6za1Lx9l.jpg

Here are the three "black spacers" as mentioned in step #19 of the written instructions. They are located between the motor assembly and the regulator mounting plate.
http://i.imgur.com/ALSEif7l.jpg

This is the new A1 motor assembly with the regulator plate removed. Note the three threaded bolt holes for the regulator mounting plate and the 1/4" square drive in the center
http://i.imgur.com/07SdCYwl.jpg

Flip the regulator mounting plate assembly over and glue the black plastic spacers on to the mounting plate. I used a GEL super glue so it wouldn't run all over the place as I tried to put the spacers back in place. (Step #15 in the written instructions)
http://i.imgur.com/M2XFtn7l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/5aGokIFl.jpg

To install the whole assembly, the motor has to go in first, then the regulator tube and drive assembly. Once both pieces are inside the door cavity, you have to mate the two pieces back together. Nothing is bolted in place yet, as you'll need to be able to rotate both the regulator and motor separately to get them lined up. I used a flat blade screwdriver to adjust the alignment of the 1/4" drive hole to match up with the angle of the motor shaft.

I used the supplied angled mounting brackets to secure the motor in place. Not too difficult, but it would be nice if a vendor came up with a permanent solution as opposed to this hack job of motor mounting. It's secure, tight, and won't move, but a better solution would be nice.
http://i.imgur.com/c2496mul.jpg

The supplied wiring harness has a molded plug on one end that plugs directly into the new motor, and the opposite end is two stripped wires. I crimped two spade terminals on to the bare wire leads and plugged them into the existing wiring harness of the door. Step #26 in the written instructions lead me to believe that the connectors on the cars wiring harness will fit into the socket on the new motor. I tried several times and couldn't make it work. These crimped terminals worked perfectly. Make sure to test the polarity by using the window switches. I hooked mine up backwards the first time. I wrapped my connections with electrical tape after this photo was taken.
http://i.imgur.com/Mzr6TYDl.jpg

Always knew my car was an August '81 build date, now I know the specific build date....8-24-1981. Somebody will be celebrating their 34th birthday this week!
http://i.imgur.com/kD3UraVl.jpg

[durech]

Great pictures. Thanks!!!

[DMCMW Dave]

That really looks like the hard way to do this job. Other than moving the two brackets we don't take anything apart.

[painterdave72]

do not use the hole they go into.. use the hole in the middle of the door bottom.. just take the h shaped bracket off. it is only held on by four screws.. the window regulator fits thru that opening no problem..

[DMC5180]

That really looks like the hard way to do this job. Other than moving the two brackets we don't take anything apart.

My thoughts exactly. I didn't disassemble mine when I did them way back in the day.

[OZ DMC]

Noted, I am about to do this job so see how I go
If you're lucky, you can be done in 1 hour per side.

In reality though, you need about 632 hours for the first door, and 20 minutes for the other side. :D

[durech]

Has anyone used Ed's windows motors (DMC EU). They are cheaper than the A1 version (338EU--$381.91--for a pair shipped to the US (Texas in my case). This price is after removing the European VAT tax. They appear to be similar, but the mounting bracket looks slightly different (although hard to tell really since the pictures are very small).

[bfloyd]

That really looks like the hard way to do this job. Other than moving the two brackets we don't take anything apart.

I followed the written directions..... :facepalm:

[DMCMW Dave]

I followed the written directions..... :facepalm:

There are a couple of versions of the directions.

[lazabby]

Since the driver's side window motor went out I went ahead and ordered both motors so I could replace what I thought would be the original motors in both sides. I changed the drivers side and it was the facotry original with the white plastic (which was broke) and the white tube. I took apart the passenger side door and it has the red tube so it had been replaced before I got it. Since it had been replaced and since it's working anyway I decided not to replace it. Now I have a brand new passenger side motor that I will be selling plus a broker driver's side motor that someone can repair.

[lazabby]

Is the Delorean window motor regulator used exclusively in the Delorean or is this a part used in other car models?

[DMC5180]

Regulator assembly is Delorean specific.

The drive motor is universal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Horsebox]

There are a couple of versions of the directions.

Would it be possible to attach the better set of instructions to the thread? I'm midway through this goatfest of a job but didn't receive any instructions with my new regulator.

Thanks!

[mrpeterman]

To install the whole assembly, the motor has to go in first, then the regulator tube and drive assembly.

I just completed the Driver's side, I found it easier to actually slide in the regulator tube first and then slide the motor in after it. I secured the spacers to the Motor before sliding it into place and attaching to the regulator tube.

The motor kit I have was from Delorean GO, which I'm pretty sure are the same ones DMC EU/A1 sell
https://www.deloreango.com/us/power-window-motor-kit.html