Fuel Filter Question

[OverlandMan]

I'm wrapping-up my fuel system rebuild and am at the point now where I need to connect the main line between the fuel filter and fuel distributor. I've replaced all the original fuel lines with a DPI kit. Because the filter is such a PIA to get at, I'm wondering if I should just replace it since I have to lift the car on jackstands to get to the darned thing anyways. I don't have a lift so this is a bit more challenging.

I thought I would see what others who have done this job could contribute. The filter is cheap but the job seems to be a real crapper. Is there even a way to replace the top line (going to the fuel dist) without undoing the bottom hard line?

[David T]

I'm wrapping-up my fuel system rebuild and am at the point now where I need to connect the main line between the fuel filter and fuel distributor. I've replaced all the original fuel lines with a DPI kit. Because the filter is such a PIA to get at, I'm wondering if I should just replace it since I have to lift the car on jackstands to get to the darned thing anyways. I don't have a lift so this is a bit more challenging.

I thought I would see what others who have done this job could contribute. The filter is cheap but the job seems to be a real crapper. Is there even a way to replace the top line (going to the fuel dist) without undoing the bottom hard line?

If you think getting to the filter is hard you haven't done much work on your car! Try changing the accumulator and see if that is easier! Most of us don't have a lift. Using a floor jack and jackstands is not all that bad.

[OverlandMan]

If you think getting to the filter is hard you haven't done much work on your car! Try changing the accumulator and see if that is easier! Most of us don't have a lift. Using a floor jack and jackstands is not all that bad.

I did the accumulator last year. It wasn't terribly difficult. I also did it on jackstands.

RE-WORDING --> Looking for HELPFUL contributions from others who have done this job. Not really interested in being told I haven't done much work on my car. My resto-blog would argue with you as well...

[Josh]

If you think getting to the filter is hard you haven't done much work on your car! Try changing the accumulator and see if that is easier! Most of us don't have a lift. Using a floor jack and jackstands is not all that bad.

x2 haha. If you are doing any doing any sort of fuel system work i would just replace the fuel filter instead of leaving the old one in place for the extra piece of mind.

[NightFlyer]

I'm wrapping-up my fuel system rebuild and am at the point now where I need to connect the main line between the fuel filter and fuel distributor. I've replaced all the original fuel lines with a DPI kit. Because the filter is such a PIA to get at, I'm wondering if I should just replace it since I have to lift the car on jackstands to get to the darned thing anyways. I don't have a lift so this is a bit more challenging.

I thought I would see what others who have done this job could contribute. The filter is cheap but the job seems to be a real crapper. Is there even a way to replace the top line (going to the fuel dist) without undoing the bottom hard line?

If you remove the elbow fitting from the filter, then you won't have to mess with the fitting to steel hard line connection. It's how I always change out my fuel filter. When reassembling the fitting to the new filter, the use of teflon tape and anti-seize on the threads will make future changes much easier. Also be sure to use two wrenches, using one on the filter nut. It typically takes me about 20 minutes to change the filter on my car in the stock/OEM location, including the time it takes to put the car on jack stands.

Best of luck :smile:

[DMC5180]

I did the accumulator last year. It wasn't terribly difficult. I also did it on jackstands.

RE-WORDING --> Looking for HELPFUL contributions from others who have done this job. Not really interested in being told I haven't done much work on my car. My resto-blog would argue with you as well...

The trick to doing the upper filter banjo is putting 2 wrenches up there one on the Bolt head and one below the banjo fitting (on the hex of the filter neck). Set the wrenches so that they are 15-30º apart. You should be able to reach up with both hands (gripping both wrenches within the grip of your hand(s)) and squeeze them towards each other to break the fitting loose. It's much less of a knuckle buster that way. It's been a while since I did this to my own I don't remember If I used shorter than standard wrenches. I do know a Gearwrench works great on the Bolt head because of the fine Click adjustability.

[Bill6298]

I thought I would see what others who have done this job could contribute. The filter is cheap but the job seems to be a real crapper. Is there even a way to replace the top line (going to the fuel dist) without undoing the bottom hard line?

Full disclosure, I ended up damaging my old hose doing this last week but I had a bunch of atypical problems. I also have far less mechanical ability than most on the forum.

It should be possible to put a stubby wrench on the banjo bolt to remove the hose without removing the filter. It was 17mm or 19mm. You might need a 2nd wrench on the filter's nut for leverage. To me, the space above the filter is worse than the accumulator cubby hole.

If you decide to change the filter...

You might be able to rotate the filter off of the elbow with the banjo disconnected and padding around the filter removed.

Alternatively, if you cut the hose close enough, you might able to rotate the filter off without removing the banjo.

I fished the hose down from the engine compartment to under the car and that didn't work out too well for me. I wanted to rotate the filter with the hose still connected to the banjo.

Josh's tip about keeping the hard line connected to the elbow was the key to my filter change last week. I guess it depends on the car.

My car is on the lowest setting for my jack stands which is suppose to be 13.2".

FWIW, I agree the job sucks really bad and would change the filter just so it's done. Then again, I'm also having trouble getting my accumulator off as well. :banghead:

[David T]

I did the accumulator last year. It wasn't terribly difficult. I also did it on jackstands.

RE-WORDING --> Looking for HELPFUL contributions from others who have done this job. Not really interested in being told I haven't done much work on my car. My resto-blog would argue with you as well...

I didn't mean to belittle you, it is just that doing the fuel filter is not all that difficult. As the previous posters mentioned, you need to use 2 wrenches so you do NOT twist and damage the hard lines. If you were able to do the accumulator the fuel filter should be easy.

[NightFlyer]

What makes my filter so easy to do is the ability to rotate the entire filter into a horizontal position around the elbow/steel hard line joint.

All I do is disconnect the bracket from the frame, rotate the filter into a horizontal position while holding the steel hard secure with a vice grip, disconnect the soft line (banjo bolt) from the top, and then spin the filter off the elbow. During reassembly, I wrap the bottom threads of the elbow fitting in 3-4 layers of teflon tape, apply some anti-seize on the threads, spin the new filter onto the elbow fitting, reattach the soft line (banjo bolt) to the top, rotate the filter into the vertical position while holding the steel hardline secure with a vice grip, reconnect the mounting bracket to the frame, and tightening the steel hard line to elbow fitting retaining nut if necessary.

Takes me about 20 minutes max.

I can't separate the elbow fitting from the steel hard line for the life of me, but it will rotate without leaking (kinda like how some of the banjo fittings will freely rotate in the fuel hoses without leaking), so I go with it :biggrin:

[Tillsy]

I didn't mean to belittle you, it is just that doing the fuel filter is not all that difficult. As the previous posters mentioned, you need to use 2 wrenches so you do NOT twist and damage the hard lines. If you were able to do the accumulator the fuel filter should be easy.

OMG David you quoted the correct post! :yesss: ;)

[OverlandMan]

I didn't mean to belittle you, it is just that doing the fuel filter is not all that difficult. As the previous posters mentioned, you need to use 2 wrenches so you do NOT twist and damage the hard lines. If you were able to do the accumulator the fuel filter should be easy.

Thanks. I guess I'm just timid about this job for whatever reason.

I also appreciate all the other input. I'll go ahead and order the filter this week. Aside from the filter, is there anything else I should replace while I'm there? I'm already replacing the upper fuel line and banjo bolts.

[DMC5180]

Thanks. I guess I'm just timid about this job for whatever reason.

I also appreciate all the other input. I'll go ahead and order the filter this week. Aside from the filter, is there anything else I should replace while I'm there? I'm already replacing the upper fuel line and banjo bolts.

Why are you replacing the banjo bolts? just because or Rusty heads.

It's Generally not necessary unless you like shiny new plating. FWIW be very diligent about torquing the banjo bolts to Spec. (especially the the small M8 bolts (injector lines, CSV,CPR) the M8 spec is 7-9 lbft. It's very easy break the small ones since they are hollow. It's somewhat difficult to put a torque wrench on the Upper M12 banjo bolt on the filter. That one you'll just need do by feel and leak check. It's big bolt and much more forgiving. It is a must to use NEW copper sealing washers on all banjos that have been removed.

[OverlandMan]

Why are you replacing the banjo bolts? just because or Rusty heads.

It's Generally not necessary unless you like shiny new plating. FWIW be very diligent about torquing the banjo bolts to Spec. (especially the the small M8 bolts (injector lines, CSV,CPR) the M8 spec is 7-9 lbft. It's very easy break the small ones since they are hollow. It's somewhat difficult to put a torque wrench on the Upper M12 banjo bolt on the filter. That one you'll just need do by feel and leak check. It's big bolt and much more forgiving. It is a must to use NEW copper sealing washers on all banjos that have been removed.

Because I'm replacing all my fuel lines and this is one of them. I got a new fuel line set with refurbed banjo bolts from DPI last month. Looks sharp!

[DMC5180]

Because I'm replacing all my fuel lines and this is one of them. I got a new fuel line set with refurbed banjo bolts from DPI last month. Looks sharp!

:thumbup: Good luck!

[OverlandMan]

Well that wasn't as bad as I had been anticipating. I wrote up a review of the process on my blog here: http://dmctx.blogspot.com/2014/01/fuel-filter-change.html

Thanks for the input folks!