Farrar's car blog

[Farrar]

I'm taking Dave Swingle's suggestion when starting this thread. This shall be the new home for the odd adventures of Sparky the AutoCarb -- or, rather, its owner -- namely, me.

First: I've not been driving the car regularly because it has a refrigerant leak in the evaporator which causes the a/c system to lose all refrigerant two days after a full charge. I am short of cash right now and so I thought perhaps before buying a new evaporator I would remove the current one, pinpoint the leak, and see if it could be repaired with e.g. JB Weld.

Second: It might be time for a new alternator. My current one (Houston's) has started to drop its output after warm-up. When I first start the engine, the volt gauge (verified accurate) reads about 14v, but even with no accessories on, it drops to 13v after the engine warms up.

Farrar

[nullset]

For some reason, I saw this as "Farrar's cat blog". I was wondering why you were starting a blog about your cat….

--buddy

[Farrar]

If I had a cat, I'd have even less time to work on my car! :P

Farrar

[stevedmc]

I have found that a 91 Saturn Alternator works nicely. You will need to use a few washers as a spacer when mounting it and you will need to swap pulleys. I figured out how to swap pulleys at home using a pipe wrench although rumor has it that Autozone might be able to swap pulleys for free.

[Mike C.]

I'm taking Dave Swingle's suggestion when starting this thread. This shall be the new home for the odd adventures of Sparky the AutoCarb -- or, rather, its owner -- namely, me.

First: I've not been driving the car regularly because it has a refrigerant leak in the evaporator which causes the a/c system to lose all refrigerant two days after a full charge. I am short of cash right now and so I thought perhaps before buying a new evaporator I would remove the current one, pinpoint the leak, and see if it could be repaired with e.g. JB Weld.

Second: It might be time for a new alternator. My current one (Houston's) has started to drop its output after warm-up. When I first start the engine, the volt gauge (verified accurate) reads about 14v, but even with no accessories on, it drops to 13v after the engine warms up.

Farrar

Hervey's now selling that main grounding cable on his site. Mine started doing the same thing that yours is doing, dropping voltage randomly... I figured I will give it a shot for 30 bucks. I will install it in the next 2 weeks and let you know if it does anything.

[Farrar]

Mine started doing the same thing that yours is doing, dropping voltage randomly...

Unfortunately, mine's not random. Within a few minutes, voltage is down to 13, and when I turn on the headlights, a/c, etc., it gets lower regardless of engine speed.

Still, a new grounding strap isn't a bad idea. I look forward to seeing how it goes for you.

Farrar

[stevedmc]

Unfortunately, mine's not random. Within a few minutes, voltage is down to 13, and when I turn on the headlights, a/c, etc., it gets lower regardless of engine speed.

Still, a new grounding strap isn't a bad idea. I look forward to seeing how it goes for you.

Farrar

I installed the new ground strap about 2 weeks ago and was pleased with the results. The new ground strap mounts to the original location (trailing bushing bolt) and there is an extension that goes from there to the transmission.

The only thing I didn't like was it was a little bit of a pain to remove/install the bolt attached to the trailing bushing but that isn't Hevey's fault.

I removed my old ground wire and was suprised that it seemed to be fine. I felt as if I had wasted my money on a new ground wire but upon installing it I was suprised to see that my volt meter reads about one volt higher than it did before. I guess a solid transmission ground really makes a difference.

[Farrar]

I guess a solid transmission ground really makes a difference.

Hmm. Perhaps it's time for me to use that 6-gauge cable I have lying in my tool closet and make a whole-car-ground-bus like Bill Robertson did...

Farrar

[uhhair]

I have found that a 91 Saturn Alternator works nicely. You will need to use a few washers as a spacer when mounting it and you will need to swap pulleys. I figured out how to swap pulleys at home using a pipe wrench although rumor has it that Autozone might be able to swap pulleys for free.

This post just made me think of an idea for an entirely new forum section: Available parts from other cars that will fit a delorean! It would be nice to have a thread where you could easily check available alternatives like this one that many people just aren't aware of.

[r00b]

Maybe you could have got away with cleaning the ends on your old ground cable.

[sdg3205]

This post just made me think of an idea for an entirely new forum section: Available parts from other cars that will fit a delorean! It would be nice to have a thread where you could easily check available alternatives like this one that many people just aren't aware of.

the old DMCTalk had that. It was an "emergency crossover list." Did you ever check that out? It's great for a number alternatives - non emergency stuff was included.

[stevedmc]

True but most of the information was part numbers. Part numbers can sometimes be usesless when walking into Autozone if they don't sell the same brands as other stores. It is much easier to walk into Autozone and say I need an alternator for a 91 Saturn SL1 or I need an oil pressure sender for a 70 Corvette (I think that is the right year).

[Farrar]

I couldn't help but laugh when I looked at the title in my browser (FireFox) -- it says "General Farrar's Car Blog." Maybe I'll make a nametag for DCS that says "General Farrar." :lol:

Farrar

[stevedmc]

I couldn't help but laugh when I looked at the title in my browser (FireFox) -- it says "General Farrar's Car Blog." Maybe I'll make a nametag for DCS that says "General Farrar." :lol:

Farrar

I used to think you were a General until I met you a while back and realized you were a music man.

[Farrar]

I forgot that I had already bought a spare alternator from AutoZone a while back -- crossed over from a Volvo of appropriate vintage. Looks from the ears that I'll need spacers for that one, too. It's 95 amps, but with LEDs everywhere, low-pressure fuel pump, stock headlights, no ridiculously powerful stereo system, and no engine electronics, it should be more than enough to drive everything in my car.

I'll take a picture of the Volvo alternator for reference if anyone is interested.

Farrar

[Farrar]

I guess no one's interested in the alternator, so I'll skip to my next idea.

I installed my footwell lights prior to installing Dave M's new interior light delay module, which dims the dome and parcel shelf lights a few seconds after the door's closed. Now, I think it looks silly having the footwell lights turn off as soon as the door's closed while the rest of the interior lights dim. So I've decided to re-wire the footwell lights to be coincident with the dome and parcel shelf lights, and have the entire interior of the car dim together.

Question: can the dome light wiring be found behind the driver's side A-pillar, or should I look somewhere else to splice in?

Farrar

[Bitsyncmaster]

Question: can the dome light wiring be found behind the driver's side A-pillar, or should I look somewhere else to splice in?

Farrar

Your looking for a purple/white wire from the front dome light. I think the light diodes are in the drivers side foot well. The wire you want has two purple/white wires going to a diode and one purple/white on the other side of that diode. You want to splice into the double wire side. That splice would go to your - LEDs and use the purple wire for your + LEDs. The purple wire should be available on your glove box light.

[Farrar]

Thanks, Dave!

[Farrar]

OK, gang. I'm moving later this month and already in the process of sorting and packing, so obviously nothing will be done to the car (apart from drive it to the new place) until I get settled. When that's accomplished, I plan to buy a MAPP gas kit and attack the evaporator.

I have also been making some sketches of a new armrest. I'm simply tired of the stock switches -- as someone mentioned in an internal DMC memo years ago, they're prone to breaking and sticking. Also, to me they feel overlarge.

Now, at this point I have all of the materials required to make a custom console, but I'm not sure I want to go that far. However, when I take the console off for the Nth time to remove the heater box, I might just go ahead and re-do the entire console and armrest to my liking.

FYI, that green foam they sell at Hancock Fabrics (and presumably other hobby stores) for things like ottomans and seat cushions is perfect for an armrest. It cuts easily but is not too soft, and will spring back to form quite nicely.

Anyone got any pics of their custom consoles they'd like to send me? I'm still in the planning phase.

Thanks,
Farrar

[dmc6960]

I still have that sketch of what I plan to do to mine. Only problem is I haven't done it yet. It does require cutting the fiberglass support from the center console unfortunately, so its more than just building a new armrest. FYI the "narrow" switches I'll be using still look stock, arn't obnoxiously large, are better built (than original, I'm suspecting same internals as DMC's new window switches), and are backlit (including the defrost switch). I'll see if I can find the file...

[Farrar]

Thanks, Jim -- I remember that sketch, but I lacked the forethought to save a copy of it to my machine.

My re-working won't involve cutting any fiberglass, fortunately... but it will require a lot of cutting of ABS plastic, since that's what I intend to use as a replacement for the current console when I change from the stock one-piece arrangement to a multiple-piece arrangement -- I found that ABS plastic, in addition to being something I could fabricate with tools I already own, provided enough flexibility to match the original console's "give," being only slightly thicker (minus the padding and vinyl).

Farrar

[Farrar]

I know this is supposed to be about my car, but screw it -- I'm not doing anything to the car at the moment. And I love the BBC and Mitch Benn. And I have to share this with all five or six of my friends. And if you don't like it -- nyah nyah nyah.

And YES -- this is the kind of geeky shot I would do if I were a rock-n-roller. Unfortunately, I took trumpet lessons when I was a kid, not guitar lessons. (I think it was my parents' way of guarding my virginity. Not as good as accordion lessons, but much cheaper.)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p3q2iZuU5WM

Mitch Benn is hilarious and a great songwriter. Here's his website (http://mitchbenn.com/).

Okay, marginally related to my car: I'll be listening to Mitch Benn's CDs in my car when I get it fixed because they should have arrived from the UK by then. :)

Farrar

[SamHill]

Enjoyed the video. And the shout out to Keeping Up Appearances, as old as it is now. Mind the curb, Richard.

Oh, yeah, might as well add this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nej4xJe4Tdg

[DMCMW Dave]

... cutting of ABS plastic, since that's what I intend to use as a replacement for the current console when I change from the stock one-piece arrangement to a multiple-piece arrangement -- I found that ABS plastic, ..Farrar

Be sure to check its temperature stability.

[Farrar]

Be sure to check its temperature stability.

"Highest temperature range: +100° to +200° F"
"Operating temperature range: Up to +140° F"

Close, but worth a try.

Edit: By that I mean it's close to as hot as it does get inside the cabin when the car is parked in the sun, but it's worth trying out as a material since it's as flexible as I need it to be.

Sorry I've been away -- medical problems.

Farrar

[content22207]

Nylon is expensive, but quite temperature resistant. It's also easy to work with. I make my air filter lids and charcoal canister blockoff plates from nylon.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Bill,

What do you cut nylon with? I like ABS because I can cut it with a hacksaw. (I'm limited to hand-powered tools, with the exception of my Dremel tool and battery-powered drill/driver.)

If ABS can't handle the cabin heat (note: I plan on installing the custom console after I repair the air conditioning), then I may go with nylon instead.

In other news, I made a Gulf Coast DeLoreans website (http://www.gulfcoastdeloreans.com/). Hooray for free HTML authoring software that's as easy to use as Netscape Composer used to be.

Now I go back to work in the Land of Radio and then continue my recently-acquired evening routine of packing up my apartment into little boxes. I swear I'll get to that evaporator eventually, but right now I have two ER visit deductibles to pay off.

Farrar

[stevedmc]

In other news, I made a Gulf Coast DeLoreans website (http://www.gulfcoastdeloreans.com/). Hooray for free HTML authoring software that's as easy to use as Netscape Composer used to be.

Awesome. Can I be a member?

[Farrar]

Awesome. Can I be a member?

Yeah, but I wouldn't call it a "membership" since it's free. :)

I put an announcement about the website in the GCD "area" (not sure what else to call it!) here on DMCTalk. Eventually I'd like to have pictures and some basic info about all of the Gulf Coast DeLoreans owners and their cars in the "About Us" section -- picture, location, VIN. Just shoot me an e-mail with all that stuff and I'll add you.

Farrar

[content22207]

What do you cut nylon with?

Saber saw (jig saw).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Saber saw (jig saw).

Looks like a saber saw is an unpowered tool, whereas a jigsaw is powered. Hm. I'll investigate this further.

Thanks!

Farrar

[content22207]

Actually a saber saw *IS* a jig saw: http://oxforddictionaries.com/definition/saber+saw?region=us

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Actually a saber saw *IS* a jig saw: http://oxforddictionaries.com/definition/saber+saw?region=us


DAMN YOU, WIKIPEDIA!!!

Mmmmmmmm, cranberry juice...

Farrar

Okay, so I don't know how this works exactly, but it looks like I may indeed have a leaky heater core.

When I got into my car last night to drive it to the new apartment, I noticed what looked like a giant greasy patch on the windshield. At the same time, when I checked my fluid levels, I noticed that I had lost some antifreeze. I recall filling up the expansion tank to the proper level the last time I drove the car a month or two ago.

Common wisdom dictates "Greasy Film On Windshield + Lost Coolant = Leaky Heater Core," but I thought that was only in the cool months when you're running the heater/defroster. Could the symptoms also arise when the car is simply parked for a long time and subjected to very high ambient heat?

At any rate, it looks like I will be ordering a new heater core at the same time as I order the new evaporator. Well, I'm told I have to replace both at the same time, anyway.

Farrar

Random thoughts:

While I have the system drained of coolant (required for heater core replacement), I might install the low-current radiator fans I installed last year.

Also on the subject of the cooling system, I have the urge to simply re-wire the entire damn thing while I'm in there, giving myself a relay for each fan.

Come to think of it, the fuse/relay compartment on my car is getting very messy; thanks to a melted relay socket, I have a couple of mismatched sockets in place of the missing blue one, for a start -- and there's more wire under there that has never been properly tamed. I could clean that area up significantly by removing the unnecessary K-Jet components (Lambda relay, etc.) for a start. I think that can wait for a cooler time of year, though -- for the moment I simply want to have air conditioning so I can drive the car some more.

Bill, I'd appreciate that photo of your cleaned-up fuse/relay compartment for reference, if you still have it and it didn't go down in flames with the old DMCTalk.

Farrar

[content22207]

Bill, I'd appreciate that photo of your cleaned-up fuse/relay compartment for reference, if you still have it and it didn't go down in flames with the old DMCTalk.

Wait until batteries in the World's Cheapest Digital Camera recharge (I need to snap a new pic because I recently installed a relay socket for my modified headlight circuit to make it easier to swap relays if one goes bad -- when I lost the relay at Justin's house it was a PITA to move short leashed individual quick connects to the replacement relay).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[content22207]

As requested:
2009

I just noticed that the totally misnamed "main fuel relay" is still in place -- I'll pluck it out and throw it in the glovebox as a spare.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Thanks, Bill!

Just out of curiosity, what's that relay hooked up to the door lock circuit breaker as its unswitched source? Is that your new headlight relay?

Farrar

[content22207]

Yep. Relay socket is of course the former rear window defroster socket.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Bill, now you've got me thinking about replacing the relay sockets and fuse box in my car. It's a mess back there...

... but I guess I'd better tackle the air conditioning first. *sigh*

Farrar

[Farrar]

Speaking of air conditioning, I'd better stock up on R-134a --- evidently, the local Big Lots has it for $8 a can, which is almost half what AutoZone charges for it at the moment!

Farrar

[stevedmc]

Speaking of air conditioning, I'd better stock up on R-134a --- evidently, the local Big Lots has it for $8 a can, which is almost half what AutoZone charges for it at the moment!

Farrar

I have seen it at few Dollar General stores for $8 and most Walmarts have been stocking it for $9.17 a can around here as well. You need to just park your car over at my house (in the shade) and leave it here until the AC work is done.

[Farrar]

I have seen it at few Dollar General stores for $8 and most Walmarts have been stocking it for $9.17 a can around here as well. You need to just park your car over at my house (in the shade) and leave it here until the AC work is done.

Hm, my local Wall-to-Wall has been selling it for more than that. I guess it depends on the area.

I'm all for using your shade if you're serious about the offer. With everything else on the car sorted out, it's killing me to not drive it just because I don't have cold air!

As soon as I'm done paying off the moving expenses, I'm ordering a new heater core and evaporator from Hervey. Maybe we can take care of it next month if you're going to be around.

Farrar

[Farrar]

In lieu of re-wiring the entire circuit as I have the temptation to do (but not the time or energy at the moment), I have decided to make the following alterations to the circuit and see how it behaves. (Note that modifications are reversible.)

1. Remove circuit breaker from circuit.
2. Replace 20-amp blade fuses in "fan fail module socket" with 20-amp auto-reset circuit breakers (http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d28.html#p185).

Bench testing of the system (with low-amperage replacement cooling fans) will commence once I have unpacked the necessary equipment.

If this works, I may recommend to Dave M that he could use the above-referenced circuit breakers in his fan fail module replacement, thus negating the need for the factory circuit breaker -- they make "mini-blade" versions which will fit. (In my opinion, one breaker for each fan is better than one breaker for both fans.)

Farrar

[robvanderveer]

Bueller, Bueller?

Haha wonderful, you just made my day. That is my (bar none) favorite movie. Oh yes I know this is off-topic-beyond-words.

[Farrar]

Bueller, Bueller?

Yes, it certainly looks like not a lot of people are reading this thread.

Therefore, I will link to my next task, thus (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?765-heater-core-evaporator-replacement-what-to-buy)!

Clicky clicky! Thankee thankee!

Farrar

[Bitsyncmaster]

If this works, I may recommend to Dave M that he could use the above-referenced circuit breakers in his fan fail module replacement, thus negating the need for the factory circuit breaker -- they make "mini-blade" versions which will fit. (In my opinion, one breaker for each fan is better than one breaker for both fans.)

Farrar

I think a fuse is more reliable and produces less heat than a circuit breaker. As long as you don't have fan problems your fuse should never blow. I do recommend you remove the 40 amp breaker when you have each fan fused. Even if you just have the fan fail fused jumpers, get rid of that breaker.

[Farrar]

As long as you don't have fan problems your fuse should never blow. I do recommend you remove the 40 amp breaker when you have each fan fused. Even if you just have the fan fail fused jumpers, get rid of that breaker.

As long as I don't have fan problems ... or drive through lots of standing water! (I still don't know how that happened -- I drove down a flooded street (no choice thanks to traffic) and both my fan fuses blew. After the car dried out, I replaced the fuses and all has been well since.

So what's wrong with the breaker -- apart from the fact that it's in the wrong place in the circuit? Is it just redundant with the fuses in place, so getting rid of it saves clutter, or is there another reason? I'm curious as I am still running with the breaker in place.

Farrar

[Bitsyncmaster]

So what's wrong with the breaker -- apart from the fact that it's in the wrong place in the circuit? Is it just redundant with the fuses in place, so getting rid of it saves clutter, or is there another reason? I'm curious as I am still running with the breaker in place.

Farrar

It is not only redundant but if one fan has an open circuit then the other fan is now "fused" with 40 amps. It saves clutter....YES YES YES. It also adds about 6 foot of wire in the harness. The replacement jumper is 4 inches long.

[Farrar]

It is not only redundant but if one fan has an open circuit then the other fan is now "fused" with 40 amps. It saves clutter....YES YES YES. It also adds about 6 foot of wire in the harness. The replacement jumper is 4 inches long.

OK, that's it -- when the weather cools down I'm cleaning up the entire relay/fuse compartment. I have mismatched, detached, and missing relay sockets... a mess of wires underneath the fuse box... and -- evidently -- a redundant circuit breaker.

Thanks for the info, Dave!

Farrar

[content22207]

The reason DMC used a circuit breaker is because it has the ability to reset itself -- for example, after you drove through that big puddle. If you hadn't had those additional fuses in the circuit, you wouldn't have risked overheating.

Thomas went to circuit breakers exclusively on its buses in the 1980's (everything on the bus is breaker protected -- there's a big bank of them inside the driver's box, where the fuse block used to be).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

The web-like wiring of the circuit is another reason why I'm tempted to just buy an aftermarket fan kit like those folks use to retrofit electric cooling fans to their classic vehicles -- no worries about replacing 30-year-old diodes with more 30-year-old diodes, no worries about fuses versus circuit breakers, or two fans on a single relay. You can even use the stock thermal trip (I mean "otterstat") with some of these aftermarket kits. (And they will answer to an a/c fan request as well.)

Perhaps some day, when I have the money...

Farrar

I had an idea about mounting flashers on the mirrors for added safety/visibility. You can find the discussion here (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?769-idea-mirror-mounted-flashers).

Farrar

In other news, I am working on slimming down the wiring in the engine compartment to make it easier to get around in there and look slightly less disorganized -- not to mention removing any potentially hazardous still-live-but-no-longer-needed power leads. If my calculations are correct, I can go from 54 wires down to 26. :)

My plan is in my head thus: Rather than unwrap, partially dismantle, and rewrap the original harnesses unnecessarily, I plan to simply remove the ones for which I don't need all their terminals and run new wires, so I'll be buying lots of wire of different colors, heat-shrink, and such. When I've run the wires and confirmed their function, I plan to finish by using high-temp wire loom and zip ties rather than electrical tape. Fortunately, all of this stuff is available online from the same seller, so I can save on shipping by not being in a hurry.

I'm not sure what gauge wire was originally used on the wiring harnesses, but it looks like 14 gauge. Can anyone confirm this?

Also, I will need some pins/sockets for the connections at the bulkhead. Are they the standard Molex size -- .093"/2.63mm diameter? If so, this is great news since I can buy those pins by the bag at my local Radio Shack.

Farrar

On second thought, it's impossible to buy the necessary wiring in the proper jacket colours without buying it in 100-foot spools. So it looks like I may end up unwrapping wiring harnesses after all. What a mess. :(

Anyway, it occurs to me that since I don't have an engine compartment light or switch, I can re-purpose the always-on 12v from that circuit to do Welmoed Jonker's constant-otterstat trick. The circuit is protected by a 10-amp fuse, and I'm sure the otterstat doesn't draw that much power -- besides which, my courtesy lamps are all LEDs now so that fuse could be reduced to 5 amps with still no danger of blowing.

I am aware that if my otterstat ever fails in the "closed" position the fans will drain the battery as the car sits, but my car is also equipped with a battery disconnect switch, so it's not as much of a problem for me as it would be for some owners.

I've been making lists of materials to keep with my car, including which relays are needed in use compared to stock configuration, and which fuses protect which devices compared to stock configuration. It's a lot of fun, and I look forward to getting into the real nitty gritty of it later when time allows. Unfortunately, I'm busy the next few weekends, so my projects may have to wait until August, which is when I plan on repairing the air conditioning, also.

Farrar

Notes to self in case of lost sketches from today:

- Replace stock taillight circuit boards with black nylon board of same thickness, cut to fit into stock housing.
- Cut holes and mount appropriate sockets (1156x4, 1157x1) onto nylon board.
- Gang grounds from sockets.
- Connect one side of a 6-terminal weatherpak connector to the sockets, connect other side to stock harness inside fascia.


- Engine compartment light source wire, unused, is purple -- bulkhead connector #37. Fuse is #12, 10A. Utilize for cooling fan thermal trip.

Some more notes for sketches from today:

Six mounting holes in radiator -- use for aluminum bar stock (U-channel?) to mount radiator fans. Measure gap between stock fans and radiator -- replicate as closely as possible with thickness of aluminum and rubber/foam tape between aluminum and radiator.

A co-worker of mine reminded me of these lovely things called "legal pads" which I can use for sketches. It's not ideal, but it's better than little pieces of paper which then get folded up and tossed in the laundry.

I have transferred some of my recent sketches to the legal pad. If anyone is interested in my ideas for ground bus, cooling fan circuit modification, taillight circuit board replacement, or mounting aftermarket radiator fans with off-the-shelf-available parts, here they are... I don't have my scanner unpacked, so I just took pictures of the sketches. Comments and suggestions are welcome. Also, if you can't read my writing or need clarification, ask away and I'll try to explain as best I can.

Farrar

[content22207]

Is the 1157 bulb in the turn signal or the backup light socket? (You can simply solder across the positive contacts on a 1157 bulb and put it in an 1156 socket for super bright backup lights, if that's your intention. The higher side knobby needs to be filed off).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Is the 1157 bulb in the turn signal or the backup light socket? (You can simply solder across the positive contacts on a 1157 bulb and put it in an 1156 socket for super bright backup lights, if that's your intention. The higher side knobby needs to be filed off).

Bill, thanks for catching that -- I labelled the sockets backwards, oops! My plan is to have dual filaments in everything but the backup lights, but your idea for super-bright backup lights using dual filament bulbs is also a good one. I will have to revise my sketch.

Farrar

[Farrar]

OK, I think this is a really fleshed-out version of what I came up with yesterday and should be easy to read.

2648

FWIW, I got the idea for this by thinking of Bill's dual-filament brake light modification, and also that it would be nice to have dual-filament signal lights on the rear, just like we do on the front, and getting rid of the awful corrosion-prone connections back there. (Remember, I live in a high-humidity area: right now it's 88°F with a heat index of 104. And it's not yet 10 A.M.!)

Farrar

[content22207]

In the U.S. it is illegal to have amber running lights (or reflectors) in the rear.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

In the U.S. it is illegal to have amber running lights (or reflectors) in the rear.

Okeydoke, here's my modified modification... modified. :)

2652

Does that make sense?

Farrar

[content22207]

The reflector/diffuser insert in position 3 won't yield the same light scatter as positions 2 and 4 (which aren't 100% identical either, but are a lot closer to each other than position 3).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

The reflector/diffuser insert in position 3 won't yield the same light scatter as positions 2 and 4 (which aren't 100% identical either, but are a lot closer to each other than position 3).

True enough, but I plan on compensating by removing the stock diffuser and putting in a different one like you did. I wish I had saved those photos from the old DMCTalk -- I guess everything uploaded to that site is gone forever.

Farrar

[content22207]

I shot a couple of new pics of the lights in action:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=1172&d=1308192855 http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=1171&d=1308192853

At some point I'll photograph the boards themselves.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=1171&d=1308192853


That certainly looks good enough for me -- I don't care if it matches 100% precisely as long as it's good and bright.

My plan is slightly different -- I plan on all three red bulbs being dual-filament, thus functioning as running lights and brake lights.

...unless, of course, it's illegal to do so... in which case I shall have to go and hide my head in shame.

Farrar

[dmc6960]

True enough, but I plan on compensating by removing the stock diffuser and putting in a different one like you did.

I would STRONGLY advise against that. That diffuser also acts as a DOT spec reflector, required on the car. CD's will not work as needed in all safety situations. I personally think its an excellent part of the taillight system. The only mod anybody should make on the taillights would be to make the running light a combo-brake light. Which it appears is all you plan on changing now. Bill's specific mod makes what are the stock brake lights running lights, and all lights brake lights. Thats a complete changeup. Only serves to make other DeLorean owners think his running with his foot on the brake.

With the effort it seems your planning to put into this, I dont see why you dont just get a set of new taillight boards?

[Farrar]

I would STRONGLY advise against that. That diffuser also acts as a DOT spec reflector, required on the car. CD's will not work as needed in all safety situations. I personally think its an excellent part of the taillight system. The only mod anybody should make on the taillights would be to make the running light a combo-brake light. Which it appears is all you plan on changing now.

Why on earth would I use a CD? They have light diffusers where I work on all the fluorescent tubes; I can cut a sheet of the same material to fit the middle housing.


With the effort it seems your planning to put into this, I dont see why you dont just get a set of new taillight boards?

Planning in my case is not much effort; I simply take out a pen and paper and start drawing stuff. The reason I plan on using a Weatherpak connector is because I don't like the stock edge-clip connector.

Farrar

[dmc6960]

Why on earth would I use a CD? They have light diffusers where I work on all the fluorescent tubes; I can cut a sheet of the same material to fit the middle housing.

Because Bill used CD's.

Do your diffusers from work have a DOT certified reflector in them? Its difficult to diffuse, transfer light, AND reflect light. Our taillights do it, but I rarely see other cars today with their DOT required rear red reflectors running double duty with the lighted parts.

[Farrar]

Because Bill used CD's.

Do your diffusers from work have a DOT certified reflector in them? Its difficult to diffuse, transfer light, AND reflect light. Our taillights do it, but I rarely see other cars today with their DOT required rear red reflectors running double duty with the lighted parts.

Ah, so I think I see what you're getting at -- both a diffuser close to the lens and a reflector behind the bulbs would be necessary. Interesting.

I had forgotten that Bill used CDs, it was so long ago when last I looked at photos of his setup.

What do you mean by "running double duty with the lighted parts"?

Farrar

[dmc6960]

See this picture of a Mustang tail light...
http://www.heatperformanceparts.com/heatshop/images/tail_light_trim_550.jpg

You'll see the primary running/brake/turn signal lights on the top 3/4. On the bottom right 1/4, you'll see the reverse. And on the middle/left bottom 1/4, you'll see the required DOT red rear reflector. The reflector portion does not light up with the running/brake/turn signal. This type of setup is what I typically see on most cars. Our cars are fairly unique in which the running light segment also has the DOT reflector in it. Thats what I mean by double-duty.

BTW, putting a diffuser in front, and a reflector behind the bulb would be no good. The reflector is for OUTSIDE light, not the taillight. The idea is an oncoming car would see the illuminated reflectors and know about your car if it were completely dark.

[Farrar]

The reflector is for OUTSIDE light, not the taillight. The idea is an oncoming car would see the illuminated reflectors and know about your car if it were completely dark.

OK, I think I understand now -- so it's a requirement that there be reflectors, like those safety strips on construction vehicles, and it's OK to shine light through them as long as they do their job, but it isn't necessary.

So would it be illegal to simply have all three red bulbs as 1157s without removing the diffuser/reflector? I know it wouldn't match in intensity but that's not my main concern.

Farrar

[dmc6960]

So would it be illegal to simply have all three red bulbs as 1157s without removing the diffuser/reflector? I know it wouldn't match in intensity but that's not my main concern.

No it would not as long as there isn't a significant difference in visual appearance. There are specifications min/max brightness of both a running light and a brake light. I dont know specifically what they are though. In general, it would be illegal to have the bright filament of a 1157 on as your running light. So as long as you have them all dim for running/park, and bright for brake you should be fine. If I were doing this myself I would only add bright brake function to the running light. I would personally not add dim running function to the brake lights.

[Farrar]

If I were doing this myself I would only add bright brake function to the running light.

Well, that's easy enough. :) Are you going to?

Farrar

[dmc6960]

Well, that's easy enough. :) Are you going to?

Perhaps as an experiment sometime next year, but likely not this year. I need a replacement taillight assembly for the passenger side (amber is moderately faded), and both taillight boards are marginal at best (original boards with poor soldering repairs). So fixing up the taillights is on my list of things to do before next DCS.

[dmc6960]

Here is the full text, minus the images, for the federal DOT regulations regarding external lighting and reflection...

http://fmvss108.tripod.com/fmvss108text.htm

Standard No. 108: Lamps, Reflective Devices, and Associated Equipment
Scope and Purpose:
This standard specifies requirements for required original and replacement lamps, reflective devices, and associated equipment and their installation. The purpose is to reduce traffic crashes, deaths and injuries resulting from crashes by providing adequate illumination of the roadway, and enhancing the conspicuity of motor vehicles on the public roads so that their presence is perceived and their signals understood, both in daylight and in darkness or other conditions of reduced visibility.

Application:
Passenger cars, multipurpose passenger vehicles, trucks, buses, trailers, (except pole trailers and trailer converter dollies), and motorcycles

[content22207]

Feds are of the opinion that I should be running catalytic converters. Feds are of the opinion that I should not be running a carburetor. I am not about to go running in fear from the specter of Federal boogymen.

My car passed a North Carolina safety inspection. According to a state licensed safety examiner, it met all legal requirements to drive on public roads.

All I know is: my tail lights do not look as ridiculous as a stock DeLorean with only one anemic tail light illuminated in a sea of red lens.

Any DeLorean owner following behind me, who thinks I am driving 80 MPH with my foot on the brake, is crazy.

BTW: I did not use CD's in Position 3. I tried that already -- they don't work. My 3rd positions have proper reflectors, just like positions 2 and 4 (I made concave rears, then lined the entire housing with chrome tape).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

On another note, now that I've figured out a way to mount my aftermarket radiator fans (thanks to a car I saw a cruise-in last Saturday), I'm figuring out what to do while I'm there. My sway bar brackets are badly scratched and rusted from some incidents when the car was much lower in the front than it is now. NOS brackets from Houston are $10 each, but DPNW have a "combo kit" which has brackets, washers, and polyurethane bushings for $100. Are polyurethane bushings really worth that much money, or should I stick with the bushings that are on the car, which were probably replaced in 2004 when the radiator was?

Thanks,
Farrar

[stevedmc]

On another note, now that I've figured out a way to mount my aftermarket radiator fans (thanks to a car I saw a cruise-in last Saturday), I'm figuring out what to do while I'm there. My sway bar brackets are badly scratched and rusted from some incidents when the car was much lower in the front than it is now. NOS brackets from Houston are $10 each, but DPNW have a "combo kit" which has brackets, washers, and polyurethane bushings for $100. Are polyurethane bushings really worth that much money, or should I stick with the bushings that are on the car, which were probably replaced in 2004 when the radiator was?

Thanks,
Farrar

I believe I read a post saying you might hear more sounds or notice something you didn't before if you go with polyurethane sway bar bushings. Maybe I am wrong, but I think I read a post where Josh Bengston said its pretty much a gamble whether or not you will hear new sounds because of them.

Myself, I would just replace them with new rubber ones every 20 years or whenever the time comes to do it again.

[Nicholas R]

Keep us up to date how this whole light mod thing works.

I had to pull my tail lights out last weekend and one of my brake light bulbs had apparently heated up the surrounding plastic so much that it warped, and I couldn't get the bulb out of the hole. I ended up having to use a heat gun to open the hole back up.

I'm running stock incandescent brake lights (for for my cruise control), with LED's in the running lights and I still heated the shroud up to the point of warping and deforming. If now you're now running with all this extra light=extra heat back there, could end up with an issue.

That area doesn't necessarily breath or get airflow to cool down, just be careful.

[Farrar]

Nicholas:

I've had LED brake lights now for almost two years, so heat is not a problem.

Steve:

I'm inclined to agree with you; the gains from polyurethane seem minimal since I do not engage in what is called "performance driving," so I'll just replace the brackets with NOS ones and keep my scratched ones as spares.

In other news, in the mail I got my 20-amp circuit breakers for the cooling fans. :)

Farrar

[stevedmc]

I'm running stock incandescent brake lights (for for my cruise control), with LED's in the running lights and I still heated the shroud up to the point of warping and deforming. If now you're now running with all this extra light=extra heat back there, could end up with an issue.

That area doesn't necessarily breath or get airflow to cool down, just be careful.

Are you sure your exhaust didn't cause any warpage?

[Farrar]

The last time I took Sparky out for a spin, he'd been sitting for a few months, and for a couple of them I had forgotten to disconnect the battery... so I had to jump-start the car from a booster battery. On the drive, which was maybe about ten minutes long, I noticed the volt gauge hovering just below 13. I started to doubt the alternator's efficacy.

Tonight I tempted fate: I went for a longer drive, and although I still had to use the booster battery to start the first time, the alternator seemed to be working just fine -- by the end of the drive the volt gauge was reading just above 13, which is normal for my car. After a couple of hours, I turned the key again and it started on the first try, and the volt gauge again read normal, so evidently my alternator and battery are both fine -- it's just that the last time I drove the car, there wasn't enough time for the alternator to charge the battery to where it could sit for two weeks and start up again.

(I hedged my bet, though -- I kept the booster battery in the car with me!)

I intend to drive the car to and from work tomorrow (lack of air conditioning be damned!) and keep an eye on the volt gauge. Looks like I may get more than two years out of Houston's alternator after all. :)

Farrar

[Bitsyncmaster]

The draining battery problem will accumulate the discharged state if your occasional drive is not long enough to fully charge the battery. Think of it this way: If your battery is 50 amp/hours, your alternator puts out 100 amps, your car needs 60 amps to run, then you need about 1.25 hours of running to fully charge a dead battery.

So if you lost 25% of your charge by sitting for one month and you only drove 10 min. to charge it, then the next month is sits you now only have about 50 % charge....etc.

[Farrar]

That makes perfect sense, Dave.

So it looks like my habit of going on long drives to absolutely nowhere when I want to have a little think is actually good for my vehicles. I'll have to start obeying the impulse again. :)

Farrar

[Farrar]

After carefully looking at what would be required for removing all stock bulkhead-connected harnesses in the engine bay and running new wires only for what I need, I've decided against that route. Instead, I bought a pin extraction tool from Radio Shack (designed to push pins out of Molex connectors) and will use it to remove the unused wires without damaging anything. I'll have to unwrap the harnesses first, so I see a lot of isopropyl alcohol in my future as I remove 30-year-old electrical-tape adhesive. :)

After that, I will remove the Lambda box behind the driver's seat.

From there, I will move to the relay/fuse compartment and start removing unused relays.

Any suggestions?

Farrar

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'll have to unwrap the harnesses first, so I see a lot of isopropyl alcohol in my future as I remove 30-year-old electrical-tape adhesive. :)

Farrar

Only the ends of the wrap have sticky stuff. It's not hard at all to unwrap the harness.

[Farrar]

Only the ends of the wrap have sticky stuff. It's not hard at all to unwrap the harness.

That's good to know!

For re-wrapping, my mother* pointed out something she thought would come in useful: silicone tape. It says that it has no adhesive, but bonds to itself with time and temperature. Would that be appropriate for wrapping a wiring harness, or would it be too much of a pain to remove in the future? Are you familiar with this material?

Farrar

*Yes, my family members appreciate and encourage my hobby. I'm a lucky man.

[dvonk]

you could ask Chris 16409 as well... he mentions in this post (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?181-VIN-2964-Engine-Electrical-Wires-Need-Help!&p=1635&viewfull=1#post1635) about replacing all electrical tape with silicone tape.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Most of the harness tape has nothing with glue on it. You wrap it tightly with a little stretch and is sticks to itself. You may want to use a small piece of tape at the ends.

[dvonk]

...he mentions in this post (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?181-VIN-2964-Engine-Electrical-Wires-Need-Help!&p=1635&viewfull=1#post1635) about replacing all electrical tape with silicone tape.

please omit the word 'all' from my previous post, i thought i had but now its too late to edit it. :blush:

[dmc6960]

This is the tape I used for such re-wrapping....

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31Cm8mu2stL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/Techni-Tool-Tape-Cold-Shrink-Black/dp/B001MX0XL0

[Farrar]

Thanks all for the tape tips. I'll be using either cold-shrink or wire loom.

New thought: Anyone investigated these (http://sherco-auto.com/headlampconv.htm) for their DeLorean?

2846

Looks like if I wanted to use these, I'd end up buying "H4" bulbs for low-beam and "H4HW" for high-beam... is that correct?

Farrar

[Chris 16409]

I wasn't sure where to find wiring loom tape, and finding silicone tape is a bit tricky as well. I was wondering why some of the harness wasn't a sticky mess with the original wrapping. It was only where electrical tape was used that I found the old sticky adhesive. I also rewrapped most of my engine bay wiring with silicone tape. There was a lot of electrical tape there. I wish I would have thought about wiring loom tape, it may have been cheaper. Anyhow, the silicone tape gives good results. Now, I did not know about that cold shrink tape. I wonder where you can get it locally?

[dmc6960]

Now, I did not know about that cold shrink tape. I wonder where you can get it locally?

Bought mine at O'reilly's. And I *think* I've seen it at AutoZone as well.

[Farrar]

My silicone tape came out of a catalogue: "Duluth Trading Company," I think. So if you can't find it locally, that's one option. I got a big multi-color pack so I can wrap different harnesses in different colors. :)

Farrar

[sdg3205]

How's the heater core/evaporator install going, Farrar?

[Farrar]

How's the heater core/evaporator install going, Farrar?

I don't have the parts yet. I expect to do the job some time in August.

Farrar

[Farrar]

OK, I hopped in the car last night to go somewhere and noticed that ALL OF THE WINDOWS were fogged up with a greasy film. It was not like this a week ago; in fact I had just cleaned all of the windows from the inside. My coolant level was still OK.

What on earth is going on?

Farrar

[stevedmc]

OK, I hopped in the car last night to go somewhere and noticed that ALL OF THE WINDOWS were fogged up with a greasy film. It was not like this a week ago; in fact I had just cleaned all of the windows from the inside. My coolant level was still OK.

What on earth is going on?

Farrar

Is any of your carpet damp?

[Farrar]

Is any of your carpet damp?

Nope, all dry.

I am stumped.

Farrar

[stevedmc]

Are you sure you cleaned them with the right product such as windex? I know this is a dumb question but I was washing my car the other day at the self serve carwash and when I set the spayer to rinse with water it started spraying wax instead.

[sean]

Did or do you use armorall or any other cheap leather vinyl treatment on on your interior?

[Farrar]

Are you sure you cleaned them with the right product such as windex?

Not on the inside; I just use water and a microfiber cloth.


Did or do you use armorall or any other cheap leather vinyl treatment on on your interior?

No, but I wouldn't put it past the previous owner to have used such a thing -- the dashboard has always looked far too shiny. I have cleaned the seats a few times over the years with Mother's leather cleaner but did not treat them. And this is the first time the side windows were fogged over in hot weather.

Maybe it's just condensation on the windows? I will buy one of those dessicant packages at the hardware store and put it in the car, then clean the windows again and see if it reappears.

DeLorean ownership just gets weirder and weirder...

Farrar

[sean]

No, but I wouldn't put it past the previous owner to have used such a thing -- the dashboard has always looked far too shiny. I have cleaned the seats a few times over the years with Mother's leather cleaner but did not treat them. And this is the first time the side windows were fogged over in hot weather.

Farrar
Well Ill just say this, we had a local owner that had to replace his windshield b/c a PO used so much armorall on the interior that it evaporated in the sun and left an oil slick on his glass he could not get off, and believe me he tried all sorts of solutions to get the funk off his glass with no luck.

[Farrar]

Well Ill just say this, we had a local owner that had to replace his windshield b/c a PO used so much armorall on the interior that it evaporated in the sun and left an oil slick on his glass he could not get off, and believe me he tried all sorts of solutions to get the funk off his glass with no luck.

Well, the fog on my windshield starts at the edges and works its way toward the center. Considering that the edges of the windshield are closer to vinyl surfaces than the center, I think your theory may be the correct one.

Farrar

[sean]

Well, the fog on my windshield starts at the edges and works its way toward the center. Considering that the edges of the windshield are closer to vinyl surfaces than the center, I think your theory may be the correct one.

Farrar

Is it greasy feeling or just seem like water?

[Farrar]

Is it greasy feeling or just seem like water?

I haven't touched it with my fingers but I can tell you that it comes off looking dirty on a white cloth -- a dark grey color. I will investigate more when I get home tonight -- maybe get some photos for reference if they would help.

Farrar

I got home after dark so it was difficult to see much of anything. However, I thought up a new theory on my way home from work: what if the fogginess is a result of me not having any air conditioning and driving in high humidity with the windows open? When I get to where I'm going, I roll up the windows and park the car, and then it sits for days while the moisture inside gets to 140°F or above. Meantime, I got sweat on the seats, steering wheel, door panel, and armrest. What if the "fog" is really just evaporated water and sweat?

So I put a desiccant pack in the car tonight. I have some work to do on the car tomorrow, but it is all in the engine compartment so I can leave the doors closed at least until Sunday. I will see how much water is sucked up by the desiccant in the meantime.

Farrar

Well, I managed to get the yellow harness unwrapped today and remove the spare red plug with jumper (used in the event of a manual transmission, so I'm not sure why it was included on my car) just as it started to rain. Now I'm trapped inside, more or less, until the rain stops.

Fortunately my engine compartment wiring is independent of all of the other wiring back there, so if need be I can finish up this evening. I need to drive the car tomorrow afternoon, so I hope I can remove the unused wires from the yellow harness and re-wrap it before then.

One thing I noticed when I was unwrapping the harness was that there were a few places where it had touched something hot enough to melt away some of the original wrapping material, so it's a good thing I decided to do this job anyway. Instead of silicone tape, I believe I will use wire loom and zip-ties to re-wrap. It's quicker and looks neater when completed.

And as I sit here at my computer desk, the rain is getting harder and harder...

Farrar

The Radio Shack pin extractor is useless -- too small. I will be cutting the wires off instead. This will be the first irreversible modification to my car, so there goes the resale value! :lol:

Farrar

[content22207]

You can buy replacement K-Jet wiring harnesses if necessary: http://www.delorean.com/store/c-347-3-7-0-rear-harness.aspx.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[stevedmc]

I will be cutting the wires off instead.
:evilgrin:

[Farrar]

You can buy replacement K-Jet wiring harnesses if necessary

I know. I just thought I'd make a joke about DeLorean resale value.

Like most of my jokes, it wasn't funny.

I need to make jokes in the absence of progress. It's still raining here. I haven't finished re-wrapping the yellow harness. And it looks like I won't make any progress until either later tonight, or first thing in the morning -- assuming it quits raining some time between now and, say, Christmas.

Farrar

[DeMopar]

Yes, Farrar-I think this is like day 10 of consistent rain here in the tropical weather capital.

I feel your pain!

[Farrar]

OK, so there's good news and bad news...

Good news: the rain slackened off to the point where I could work. I have now finished getting rid of unused wires and wrapping what's left in wire loom. Fortunately, the auto trans harness is 100% removable, so I got to do that part out of the rain. :)

Bad news: when the first downpour occurred, I gathered up all of the wires I had then removed and threw them in the dumpster. Unfortunately, one of those wires went to my choke heater!

So now I have to figure out where would be a good place to tap 12v for my choke heater. Maybe somewhere from the auto trans harness?

Farrar

[content22207]

Tap it into a keyed wire in your ECU compartment and run it out the same grommet as the hall effect sensor. I used the Green wire that used to power my CIS ECU. You can put a 1/4" male quick connect on the end and plug it into the factory harness connector if you want to keep what is left of your car original.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Tap it into a keyed wire in your ECU compartment and run it out the same grommet as the hall effect sensor. I used the Green wire that used to power my CIS ECU. You can put a 1/4" male quick connect on the end and plug it into the factory harness connector if you want to keep what is left of your car original.

Whoops! I wish I'd stuck around to see that reply (or that you had been home, Bill, when I called you just before posting). I also had the idea of running a wire through the grommet, but as it is raining outside I felt no urge to work with the doors open. (I have had a hard enough time with foggy windows recently without exacerbating the problem by choice.) Instead, studying the wiring diagram I see that the solid Green wire which sends 12 volts to the auto trans computer is indeed keyed and pulls through Fuse #13. So I used a quick-splice connector and tapped into that. At the moment I am out of spade terminals, so I only had one chance at making a new wire for the choke heater. Let us hope that it works. I haven't tried to use the car yet -- I just put on my third set of clothes of the day and I am enjoying being dry for the moment.

Farrar

[content22207]

In a pinch you can simply relax tension on the choke spring by rotating the housing clockwise. It will eventually heat up and expand from ambient heat anyway (I left the 4100 for one of my buses sitting on the front seat of my truck last week. By the time I installed it, the choke wouldn't close -- spring had already expanded from heat in the cab).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Well, using the same Green wire as the auto transmission computer worked beautifully. I'm inclined to keep it that way -- even though it means having an "unsightly" quick-splice visible in the engine compartment.

I must say though I am rather proud of how it looks back there now. It's not perfect, but it's much better!

2909

Farrar

[stevedmc]

For what its worth, I pulled my old wiring a couple of weeks ago and ran 12v to my electric choke from the RPM relay plug. The RPM relay quit working anyway so I trashed the part and installed a jumper wire into the plug. I am running 12v from the jumper wire straight to the choke and things are working, and looking great.

[Farrar]

Here are some more pictures of the engine compartment with the new wiring loom installed; I had some sunlight today so I took advantage of it.

29312932293329342935293629372938

One thing that bugs me is that giant thick loop; originally there was a good reason for it to be that long -- it stretched over to the cold start valve and control pressure regulator. Now the only thing exiting that giant loop on the left side is the otterstat, but I don't feel that shortening the wiring that is left is in my best interest, so it's simply tucked out of the way for now.

Farrar

[sean]

Not to shabby, reminds me of Doc Ock :tongue2:
2939

[Farrar]

Never heard of Doc Ock, and although my nickname is Doc, it is from Severinsen... whom probably most folks around DMCTalk are too young to remember.

Anyway, I have yet to hear back from John Hervey. Although I wish him the best, I need to get my air conditioning fixed pronto, so I will be ordering a low-pressure switch, heater core, and evaporator from Houston. I hope they all work, since they're 30-year-old parts.

Farrar

[Farrar]

I called up Dave & Julee this morning about my evaporator/heater core replacement project. Dave said that the heater core rarely fails, but that I do have the classic symptoms of a heater core leak (foggy windshield in heat, slowly disappearing coolant), and that I might as well replace both while I am doing the work. Makes perfect sense to me. So I ordered a heater core, plus -- instead of just the evaporator -- an evaporator "kit" which contains an orifice tube and accumulator. I figure the system has been exposed to the humid air so long by now that I might as well replace the accumulator; it is, after all, relatively cheap.

I also ordered a low pressure switch because I accidentally threw out my old switch when I removed the accumulator -- oops! Fortunately, also a relatively inexpensive part.

Now I have to find some appropriate closed-cell foam to replace that which surrounds the box and has probably disintegrated over the last thirty years (hm, I wondered where that black fuzz was coming from when I turned on the a/c after a long time!), plus some adhesive cork tape, and I should be ready to do the job! I know it will be a pain, but I am excited to get it done so I can drive with a/c, which is generally necessary nine months out of the year in this climate.

I'm pretty excited! :)

Farrar

[Farrar]

...or perhaps not a heater core.

Dave doesn't have any new ones, Houston doesn't have any new ones, and the used ones don't look so great.

So I'm not sure how to proceed -- find a radiator shop and have them pressure-test the heater core I've got once I have it out of the car?

I could also simply remove the heater core I've got and bypass it with a length of hose... I don't drive the car much in winter at all and have used the heater maybe once -- but if memory serves I have used the defogger a few times over the years, and I wouldn't want to lose that function -- in fact I was thinking today that while I'm in there it would be a good idea to re-wire the mode switch to run the compressor when the defroster/heater is engaged.

Oh dear, what to do?

Any suggestions?

Farrar

[DMCMW Dave]

If you modify it to run the compressor in defrost mode you won't need heat. (Applies to New Orleans, not Milwaukee!).

[Farrar]

If you modify it to run the compressor in defrost mode you won't need heat. (Applies to New Orleans, not Milwaukee!).

Dave, that's what I was thinking... I will have to study the wiring diagram for the HVAC system and see how I can modify the routing behind the switch to make this happen -- unless you already know how, in which case I'm ready to take notes! :)

Farrar

[Farrar]

Okay, I found it (http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/modeswitch.html). I sure hope I can do this without destroying the switch... I'm not the best at soldering but I think I can do this.

Farrar

[stevedmc]

It appears someone has a heater core for sale:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?979-Heater-Core&p=10401#post10401

[Farrar]

It appears someone has a heater core for sale:

Honestly, I think I can just do without one.

Farrar

[sean]

Honestly, I think I can just do without one.

Farrar

I'd think so. So is a bypass I your future?

[stevedmc]

Hervey is alive and well. I just spoke with him on the phone and he is busy trying to get orders out today before 5pm.

[Farrar]

I got my H4 conversion kit today and am super excited -- they are GLASS on the front, ladies and gentlemen! For $22.11 a pop, that's pretty impressive. I also got 4 60/55W bulbs for $2.50 each. :)

The fixtures have small blue lights which have separate leads which I presume are meant to be running lights. But blue lights are only for law enforcement, right? So I guess I will leave them alone.

Farrar

I did some math and calculated that the 55-watt low-beam filaments will draw less than ten amps when engaged, but the 60-watt high-beam filaments will draw 20 amps when engaged. Therefore, I will be changing Fuse #15 to 30 amps after I install the new H4 headlamp units.

Farrar

I went about installing these today:

http://www.sherco-auto.com/images/gint/070100.jpg

All went well to a certain point: swapping the two positive leads in the low-beam sockets was the easiest part, thanks to a small flathead screwdriver I had lying about. I recall reading on the old DMCTalk that someone else's housings required the holes in the rear of the headlight buckets to be enlarged; this is not required with the units I bought; they fit perfectly with no modifications. I did, however, remove the small blue running light in each housing and cover the resultant hole with white electrical tape.

As luck would have it, one of the screws holding the passenger-side high-beam lamp is rusted to where I can't get a screwdriver or pliers to grip it and turn it -- and as I was trying to turn it from the other side with pliers, a frog-strangling rainstorm started hurling itself down upon me at vicious speed. So I have three of four bulbs installed at the moment, and it appears a long time to think about how to remove that rusty screw in the interim.

I did, however, make sure that the bulbs worked correctly. They do, and even in daylight and with my fingerprints all over the glass it looks very nice! :)

Farrar

Since a normal screw extractor won't work, I bought one of those "grab-it" things tonight at The Home Depot. I will try again tomorrow.

Farrar

[Farrar]

The Grabit Pro thing I bought at Home Depot -- actually a set of three tools for $20 -- worked like a charm. In ten seconds the screw was out! :shocked: I am keeping that thing with my power driver at all times.

I took some photos of the new H4 headlight setup, but the Internet at my house went down yesterday which is why I haven't posted them yet. Unfortunately while I was doing the work I noticed that Sparky is beginning to get some serious eyebrows. It looks like some aluminum bar stock is in my future... I only hope there's a way of installing the reinforcement without removing the fascia, which is something I don't trust myself to do without royally screwing up.

I forgot to change the high-beam fuse from 20 amps to 30 amps, but during a quick test of the setup, the fuse did not blow anyway. However, the engine was not running so I doubt the lights were pulling their maximum of 60 watts per bulb.

When I was applying RTV to the leak at the timing cover in an attempt to cure the oil leak for the Nth time (remind me to post a photo of my air cleaner -- you'll be amazed at what high humidity and an oil leak will get you), I noticed that the wire running to the oil sender had two different kinds of black electrical tape on it. Curious, and bearing in mind that I had some wire loom leftover from my earlier project, I decided to unwrap it and see what was up. It looks like at a certain point the insulation on that wire was melted away -- when I removed the tape, I could see a breach in the original insulation where copper could be seen. So just to be safe, I wrapped the entire length of wire, from where it split off to the light sender to where it goes down over the front of the timing cover, in silicone tape in lieu of the original (rubber?) heat insulation. Then I put the wire loom on it. With the extra little bit I had left over from that length, I covered the compressor wire. Why not -- it might as well match. :)

I also put wire loom on the otterstat leads before thinking last night while trying to sleep that the 25-amp door lock module circuit breaker, which only routes power to the engine compartment lights (136 milliamps x2), would be a good place to draw a constant source for Welmoed's otterstat mod -- that way if the otterstat fails "closed," I can quickly disconnect its power lead to prevent the battery from draining and use a jumper wire to re-connect it to its stock circuit so that it will run with the key on only. When it comes to fixing stuff, access is key. :)

After that work was done, which was about 40 minutes into what I assumed would be a nice long morning working on the car, I started feeling sick. I was already soaked with sweat and wetting everything I touched, so I figured it was the beginning of heat exhaustion and went inside. I started feeling better after a few hours, but by then it was even hotter outside and threatening rain. So I didn't get to do anything else.

There are competing theories as to my foggy glass situation: some folks think it's a leaky heater core, while others think it's out-gassing of an Armor-All-esque vinyl shiner. When I was at O'Reilly's yesterday afternoon I picked up some Meguiar's vinyl cleaner. The bottle says nothing about "shine" but it does say "deep cleaning," "protection," and "restores original appearance." I am hoping the "deep cleaning" part might be able to undo some of the harm that Armor-All (or whatever) has done to the interior of the car -- but, as I said, I didn't have a chance to try that yesterday.

I did take some photos of the H4 housings on the car which I will post later. In the photos, you can see that Sparky is developing eyebrows. I guess I will look for a "how to" on eyebrow repair and hope that I don't have to pull the fascia for that procedure.

Thanks for reading.

Farrar

Forgot to mention that as I was unpacking stuff from the move I located yesterday the weatherstripping with which I intend to replace the stock trunk seal. Looking forward to getting that done, and having fewer drips of water in the footwells after a hard rain. :)

Farrar

Pics as promised.

3120

3121

Farrar

[Farrar]

Last evening I received a package from Atolumination. It had been so long since I ordered anything from them I had forgotten what it was, but I realised that it had been sent to the wrong address, so I am lucky it found me eventually.

I ordered the brightest bulbs I could find for the door lights, plus two of the brightest 1156 LED modules they sell for my reverse lights. If I can manage it, I will put up some comparison photos in the next few days.

Farrar

I didn't get much done tonight, but here's what I managed:

Here are the new door lights from Autolumination.

3170

Here are photos for comparison; the new units are on the driver's door; the old units are on the passenger's door.

31673169

And here are the old units I removed. Considering the amount of rust on two of them, I'm surprised those were functioning at all.

3168

Farrar

[Renee_1632]

Do you have any pics of the headlights at night? I'm hoping to replace mine soon, and I'd like to see how yours look.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Here are photos for comparison; the new units are on the driver's door; the old units are on the passenger's door.

31673169
Farrar

Nice find on those door lights. I never liked the spot made by the old LEDs

[Farrar]

Nice find on those door lights. I never liked the spot made by the old LEDs

Thanks; neither did I. I can understand why people went to them in the first place (saving electricity), but the amount of light thrown by that first batch Houston came up with was pretty weak -- a curse of being an "early adopter," I suppose.


Do you have any pics of the headlights at night? I'm hoping to replace mine soon, and I'd like to see how yours look.

I've been busy every night this week so far, but I plan on aiming the headlights tonight when I get home from work. I should be able to get some photos then.

Farrar

My girlfriend insisted that we take the DeLorean to supper, despite my hesitation.

I think that's the last time she'll make that demand!

Sparky has now been towed home for the second time since I bought it. The first tow was, of course, after the infamous fire in the engine compartment which led to the car's nickname. Tonight, though, I have a mystery on my hands...

After running for five minutes or so, the engine will simply die. For the first couple of minutes, everything is great -- punch the gas, the engine revs. Oil gauge is jumpy but good. Voltmeter shows good. Everything works. Then the idle gets rough, and if you hit the gas the engine stops.

I tested this again after the engine had cooled down -- even if you don't punch the gas, the engine will die. It just takes longer for it to idle to a stop.

The fuel pump works, the carburetor bowl is full of fuel. Spark is fine. The only thing I can think of is that the engine isn't breathing properly. Since I took the air cleaner off and it did the same thing, then it must be the "exhale" which is causing the engine to bog down and give up, rather than the "inhale."

As much as I would love to troubleshoot this in the middle of the night, work tomorrow beckons. Good night.

Edit: I gave some incredibly-stressed-out-looking dude in a Chevy pickup some gas money while I was waiting for the tow truck. Maybe my Carma will improve...

Farrar

[sdg3205]

Hmm.

There's been a lot of trouble with carbed cars recently. Maybe its time to revisit K-Jet, Farrar! Look, there it is, waving to you from a box in the corner of your garage!


mmmmm k-licious.

[stevedmc]

Hmm.

There's been a lot of trouble with carbed cars recently. Maybe its time to revisit K-Jet, Farrar! Look, there it is, waving to you from a box in the corner of your garage!


mmmmm k-licious.

There's been a lot of problems with all 30 year old cars recently. A bad RPM relay will cause the same problem on carbed and K-jet cars.

Edit: It might not be the RPM relay but if it works after cooling down it just might be that. Just my opinion.

[sean]

There's been a lot of problems with all 30 year old cars recently. A bad RPM relay will cause the same problem on carbed and K-jet cars.

Edit: It might not be the RPM relay but if it works after cooling down it just might be that. Just my opinion.

This is as far as the carb v K-jet tangent will go here, all others will go away.

[content22207]

Just because there is fuel in the bowl does not mean the pump is spinning at that same moment. Remember: a full bowl gives you nearly a mile (at low RPM's) worth of travel without a pump even in the vehicle.

You need to catch the car red handed. Next time it dies, immediately denergize the car (so the pump has no chance to spin), then look in the bowl. I had to do that to isolate a problem with one of my church's school buses (bowl was completely empty when the engine died, but the pump made normal noises and refilled it as soon as I re-energized the vehicle, allowing me to narrow it down to a pickup problem). If your engine dies, the pump is not spinning (because you took its electricity away), and the bowl is full of fuel at the time of dieing, then you know your problem is not fuel delivery.

Fuel starvation is a very distinctive feeling. If you want to see what it feels like, simply unplug your pump then drive until the bowl runs dry. The engine will not cut off immediately, but will limp until the very last drop of fuel for several seconds, losing more & more power and sometimes even detonating (valve clatter) in the process. It's just like running your lawn mower dry at the end of the summer, but on a larger scale.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

I know what fuel starvation feels like because, a while back, my fuel pump died on me when I was on the road.

The fuel pump runs; otherwise I wouldn't have made it down the block, or idled for several minutes while I tried to figure out what was going on. I don't think this is a fuel delivery problem. When I took off the oil breather cap, which I had previously cleaned with carburetor cleaner a little while ago, it was covered in goo at the bottom which looked like softened butter. I wiped it off with a papertowel and smelled it, but it didn't have a distinct smell, just kind of smoky. There was some smoke coming out the "chimney" where the oil breather cap goes into.

I looked at the top "pie plate" -- globs of that softened-butter-looking stuff were stuck to it, except they looked more brown than yellow. Like whipped peanut butter with extra oil, now that I think of it -- very shiny and soft. Same stuff was on the bottom pie plate, just not as much. There was also a little bit on the inside of the air filter. This was slightly thicker, so perhaps slightly older, than what I found on the underside of the oil breather cap.

I haven't checked the PCV valve yet... I've put off going to work today long enough.

Farrar

P.S. - Thanks, Sean!

[content22207]

Water in the crankcase. You need to get the engine up to operating temp for at least 15-20 minutes to determine whether it's condensation/humidity/etc or a head gasket leak (atmospheric moisture will boil off and not come back).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Water in the crankcase. You need to get the engine up to operating temp for at least 15-20 minutes to determine whether it's condensation/humidity/etc or a head gasket leak (atmospheric moisture will boil off and not come back).

Okeydoke -- I will pull the air cleaner off and see if I can get the thing to idle that long. Even in this weather, the cooling fans do not come on when the engine has only been running for five minutes.

I will also try bypassing the fuel pump relay with a jumper (to the green wire instead of the brown one, so I don't do something stupid and drain my battery) to see if that might be the solution to Mysterious Engine Death.

If the PCV valve is blocked up again, I will be angry; I've already replaced the thing once a year ago.

Farrar

[content22207]

Was it raining when your car put you to walking? Water can play havoc with secondary ignition (for fun, Google "high voltage water bridge"). If the jackets on your plugs wires are frayed or the boots are torn (remember: leaking oil is really hard on them), voltage will jump all over a wet engine compartment rather than fire the plugs. At night you can seen it like St Elmo's Fire. Moisture inside a distributor cap will prevent the plugs from firing (this happens a lot when you wash an engine). Water inside the plug wells will cause voltage to jump directly to the block. Etc.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Was it raining when your car put you to walking?

Nope; in fact, i checked to make sure the plug wells were dry, as was the area around the ignition coil.

Although it has been very wet here of late, I drove the car successfully twice (about 20 to 30 minutes of driving each trip on successive days) after completing my wire-loom project, and it hasn't rained since that last successful drive.

Farrar

[content22207]

Was your distributor cap on fire?

In all seriousness, measure resistance across the rotor button. OEM is 5K ohms, but I have one spare button that reads more than three times that. It's stupid to put a resistor in the rotor button (who listens to AM radio anymore), but that's the reality we deal with. I believe Andre in Italy straight wired his.

On the old site there was a picture of a Volvo rotor button that had melted in half (anyone still working on resurrecting those archives?).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Not sure what resistance across the distributor rotor would have to do with engine temp... the engine dies just as it's getting warmed up, but prior to cooling fans coming on. Runs fine when cold. Oh well, it's worth checking anyway while I'm back there.

Thanks,
Farrar

I forgot to mention the good news: as I was back in the engine compartment trying to figure out what the hell was going on and dripping sweat everywhere, I didn't see any oil leaking from the timing cover gasket! Looks like all of that ugly silicone I gooped on top of the gap up there is working, at least temporarily.

Farrar

[content22207]

... the engine dies just as it's getting warmed up, but prior to cooling fans coming on. Runs fine when cold.

I thought the engine was simply dieing out of the blue. Are you saying that a warm engine (just before otterstat opening) idles OK, but dies when you open the throttle plates? If so, that just sounds like your choke plate isn't opening.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Cold engine idles fine. You can punch the gas and it revs up and settles down into idle fine.

As engine warms up (approaching the first line on the temp gauge), it starts stumbling and the idle speed drops lower and lower. Try to compensate by giving it gas, and the engine quits and will not re-start until the engine is cold again.

Farrar

[content22207]

After running for five minutes or so, the engine will simply die. For the first couple of minutes, everything is great -- punch the gas, the engine revs. Oil gauge is jumpy but good. Voltmeter shows good. Everything works. Then the idle gets rough, and if you hit the gas the engine stops.

This sounds like a choke plate that isn't opening.


I tested this again after the engine had cooled down -- even if you don't punch the gas, the engine will die. It just takes longer for it to idle to a stop.

This doesn't sound like a choke plate problem.


... the carburetor bowl is full of fuel.

Did you pop the top off the carb to look inside? You have to be careful not to put the tab that connects the choke plate to the activation lever on backwards when the choke spring is fully expanded. It's real easy to do when putting a warm carb back together. If you put that tab on backwards, the engine won't even restart -- the choke plate will be in a totally closed bind.

Bill Robertson
#5939


Cold engine idles fine. You can punch the gas and it revs up and settles down into idle fine.

As engine warms up (approaching the first line on the temp gauge), it starts stumbling and the idle speed drops lower and lower. Try to compensate by giving it gas, and the engine quits and will not re-start until the engine is cold again.

Farrar

Look at your choke plate.

You just did a bunch of wiring work in your engine compartment -- make sure you didn't disable the 12v line to your choke spring.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

I couldn't post here for a few minutes. Blame the Internet.

Bill, I checked the choke heater when the engine died -- it was hot, so it has voltage. The choke plate was wide open when the engine died.

New development: starter will engage from the engine compartment, but not from the key, after engine has died.

Electrical issue?

Farrar

As the pork chops sizzle in their pan, I have a quick question to ask:

Could it be a bad impulse coil in the distributor? How would I check that?

Farrar

Here's what I did today.

I bypassed the fuel pump (or "RPM" in DeLorean terms) relay by bridging switched power to the fuel pump. The fuel pump is now energized when the key is in ON and START.

I took advantage of the now-only-partially-used RPM Relay Socket for a source of unswitched, fuse-protected power to the cooling fan temperature switch (or "otterstat" in DeLorean terms), so that my cooling fans will now run after the engine has switched off, until the temperature drops below 195°F and the otterstat breaks the connection to the cooling fan relay.

I removed the air cleaner housing so that I could observe the action of the choke plate.

I checked the PCV valve: it rattles when shaken.

Having now eliminated the RPM Relay from the potential causes of what I have the urge to call Sudden Engine Death Syndrome but probably shouldn't owing to those of a sensitive nature, I checked the fluids, double-checked my recently-made electrical connections (including inserting a jumper to make the cooling fans run), and started the engine.

It started on the first turn of the key without hesitation.

The choke plates moved as they should -- opening just a touch when I started the engine, and then within a couple of minutes of idling becoming wide open.

After the choke plates had opened, I pressed the throttle to disengage the fast-idle cam, then released the throttle.

The engine settled into its prescribed idle speed of 950 RPM and idled beautifully.

The voltmeter read approximately 13.5 to 13.8 volts.

As the temperature gauge neared the first line from the bottom, the engine started to burble, but the idle remained at about 950 RPM.

Slowly, the burble became a stumble.

I was standing back by the engine as this was happening, seeing if I could observe any changes. I saw nothing. Suddenly, the idle dropped -- it sounded to me like it went down to 700 or 650 RPM. By the time I had walked forward and stuck my head inside the car to look at the gauges, the engine had quit running. It will not start again right now.

Next?

Farrar

[Farrar]

Just because I thought it might be diagnostically useful, this time I took a video. When I observed the end of it, I heard the fuel pump NOT SPINNING. So I opened up the carburetor bowl and saw a tiny bit of fuel. When I hooked up the fuel pump again, it ran for a second and then died.

I am sick of these damned Made In Mexico fuel pumps. Someone please make me a recommendation for another low pressure fuel pump with a 1/8" NPT fitting on the end.

Farrar

[content22207]

Apologies for the delayed response -- I have been driving my crappy carbureted DeLorean to DC (via Virginia Beach -- spent last night at the sleaziest motel in Norfolk, yet none of my windows were broken this morning!).

Autozone now sells Made in China pumps under the same part number (E8012S). They will fit inside your carrier (they are smaller than the Airtex units), but the top barb is built-in 5/16".

I put a Mr Gasket (Prestolite) pump on one of my church's school buses. It only puts out 3-4 PSI. I had to augment it with an Airtex pump by the tank, for a total of 12 PSI.

Advance still sells Airtex pumps.

A mechanical pump wouldn't really be any better -- gasohol causes the diaphragm to split.

See now why farmers strap a tank to the roof and just gravity feed the carb....

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

It's all right, Bill -- it's too hot outside for me to do much of anything, anyway.

At least this fuel pump failed in a creative way. The last one simply had me driving down the road and then poof -- the engine died. No chance of re-starting that one. This one was stealthy. In fact, I bet if I went outside right now and tried it, it would run for another five minutes and then quit.

AutoZone's Made In China fuel pumps don't give me much confidence if they're meant to replace the Made In Mexico units that fail after one year's occasional service.

There's an O'Reilly near to me which stocks Airtex E8090 fuel pumps. That unit is a 12V, 5-9 PSI, 30 GPH pump that comes without pickup screen but otherwise looks the same as the Airtex units I have been burning through every summer. Its retail price is $63.99. "Contact store for warranty details." Oh, boy. Perhaps I should buy a more expensive failure-prone unit. At least it will fit inside the fuel pump carrier, or so it appears from the photo.

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/aix/e8090-1.jpg

Or...

Also in stock is a Mr. Gasket 12S fuel pump. That's a 12V, 4-7 PSI, 35 GPH unit which is listed as "micro electric" and I am pretty sure will not fit inside the Bill Robertson Fuel Pump Carrier®. Retail price: $44.99. "90-day limited warranty."

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/mrg/12s.jpg

I guess if I used the Mr. Gasket 12S, I would have to mount it somewhere outside the fuel pump carrier/boot and run a hose from the bottom of the fuel pump carrier (read: from the pickup screen) to the fuel pump, wherever it happens to be. Question is, where? I don't want to drill holes in the fuel tank for the pump mounting brackets, and I don't want to run a long hose subjecting myself to vapor lock, or having to install a check valve of some sort -- another part to fail down the road.

Although -- I wonder if "micro electric" would be more reliable than the "solenoid" units I have been using. Thoughts?

Farrar

[content22207]

As stated, my church's school bus is using both a Mr Gasket (made by Prestolite) pump under the hood, and an Airtex pump next to the tank. The Mr Gasket unit produces very little fuel pressure.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

The Mr Gasket unit produces very little fuel pressure.

So yours is also a 12S? Hmm. I was hoping it would produce 5 PSI which I think would keep the 2100 happy.

Well, I suppose it's off to O'Reilly for an Airtex E8090.

(AutoZone does not sell this unit -- they sell an E8887 which is 10-14 PSI, and everything else is either too low fuel pressure or too high fuel pressure for my carburetor.)

If the Airtex E8090 works, and fits, I guess I will buy a spare and keep it in the car with me along with my jumpers, fuses, belts, and relays!

Farrar

[content22207]

Sequence of events Re school bus:
1) Started suffering what may be fuel delivery issues (I was not driving the bus -- just getting negative reports second hand, which had to be filtered through the prism that no one likes this particular bus -- complaints could have been mere griping from a driver who also drives like a Bat out of Hell, which this bus simply never will do by original design)
2) Installed a dash mounted fuel pressure gauge, which was a total waste of my time because the above mentioned driver doesn't monitor dash gauges -- hence the other dead school bus she did eventually manage to kill.
3) School bus dies on the side of the road, I restart it and drive it gently back to the church, but fuel pressure isn't even reading on the gauge. Suspecting a failing mechanical pump, I installed the Mr. Gasket unit, which does produce 4 PSI when the needle valve is closed, but drops to zero when the engine is running wide open (renders the fuel pressure gauge useless, but as stated above that doesn't really matter when the Steering Wheel Wiggler, AKA bus driver, doesn't even bother to glance at the damn thing).
4) Bus dies again on the side of the road, this time going uphill. I restart it again and barely limp it over the hill, at which time fuel pressure comes back. I begin to suspect a problem pulling from the tank, confirmed when I floor the bus and it runs wide open and dies shortly thereafter, at which time I pull the the top off the carb and find the bowl dry, yet the pump makes normal noises and refills it sitting still. I gently drive the bus back to the church, install a pickup from the bottom of the tank, and the second fuel pump.

I have since successfully driven the bus myself to/from Fayetteville at 55 MPH and Maxton at 60 MPH (the poor thing screams on the highway -- it's got a big Allison automatic that shifts into 3rd gear around 25 MPH). With both pumps running, fuel pressure reads 12 PSI at idle, dropping to 4-6 PSI at full throttle.

Negotiations are under way to fire the Bus Killer and hire me to drive the buses.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Bill, it sounds like you are having what my mother would call "a time" with that bus and its driver! I think a lot of large vehicles are damaged by people who don't understand a drivetrain that was made for haulage not speed. Sounds like you'd be the solution to their bus woes in more ways than one! I'll root for you. (Listen for the sound...)

A new fuel pump has been ordered and should arrive on Tuesday. I actually ordered two -- in case it fits, I will keep the second as a spare. They're $64 each, so that's most of my "fun" budget for the month gone.

In other news, when I opened up the relay/fuse compartment to run my new wire for the otterstat, my courtesy lights all failed. Somewhere back there, there's a wire disconnected. When I removed the row of relays, I looked carefully at the melted insulation from owners past, the slightly melted relay sockets, the unused relay sockets, and wiring kluges that have been done over the years, and with a resounding sigh said "Eff this. I'm doing this whole compartment over again." So I've ordered 10 relay sockets (price goes down if you order 10 or more) and 100 terminals -- but not a fuse box for obvious reasons -- and will soon be cleaning up that relay compartment.

I was considering using a kit like this one for an entirely new cooling fan circuit --

3333

-- but I think by giving each fan its own relay and circuit breaker I will accomplish the same thing that this kit offers. Although its lug-mounted temperature sensor intrigues me, the kit is $133 and I think that's a bit pricey considering what it is. Besides, why would I want a circuit breaker for my cooling fans which I have to reset by hand? I like the auto-reset type like I already have.

Farrar

[Farrar]

By the way, does anyone happen to know if the "lock doors" light should illuminate when my doors are unlocked even if I don't have the door lock module installed? My "lock doors" light has only worked once -- for a couple of days a year or two ago -- and I have no idea why it didn't work before, why it worked then, or why it doesn't work now. The bulb is good.

Farrar

[Bitsyncmaster]

By the way, does anyone happen to know if the "lock doors" light should illuminate when my doors are unlocked even if I don't have the door lock module installed? My "lock doors" light has only worked once -- for a couple of days a year or two ago -- and I have no idea why it didn't work before, why it worked then, or why it doesn't work now. The bulb is good.

Farrar

According to the schematic, it should work without the DLM. The door switches or the inertial switch should turn it on or off.

[Farrar]

According to the schematic, it should work without the DLM. The door switches or the inertial switch should turn it on or off.

"Inertial switch" -- you mean what turns the fuel pump off?

Farrar

[Bitsyncmaster]

"Inertial switch" -- you mean what turns the fuel pump off?

Farrar

Yes. In a crash it forces the door switch contacts to ground. That turns on the light and unlocks the doors.

[Farrar]

Yes. In a crash it forces the door switch contacts to ground. That turns on the light and unlocks the doors.

Fascinating! Thanks, Dave!

Looks like I have another electrical mystery (along with no interior lights) to track down this week as I am sprucing up the relay/fuse compartment...

Farrar

[content22207]

Since you are considering a Mr. Gasket pump, this is how it compares to an Airtex unit:

Mr Gasket pump & pressure:
3371 3372

Airtex pump & pressure:
3373 3374

Combined pressure:
3375

This is the new tank pickup -- no baffle necessary:
3376

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

I already ordered an Airtex pump. Two of them, actually.

The solution for drawing fuel from the tank is a novel one -- or it would be in DeLorean land! I don't think I feel like draining my tank and drilling a hole in it, though.

The Airtex pumps I ordered should arrive at the parts house today; O'Reilly's are open late, so I should be able to pick the fuel pumps up after work tonight.

With my courtesy lights not working, I can't install a new fuel pump after work tonight since it will be too dark outside. I should be able to install it tomorrow morning, if I sleep all right tonight.

Farrar

[content22207]

If you can't change your pump by flashlight, the spare won't do much good if your pump dies after dark.

My pump has never been grounded through the inertia switch (PO mod -- the inertia switch harness connector is melted). I drilled a dedicated frame ground next to the tank about a year into ownership when their radiator bracket ground failed, and it's been there ever since. Perhaps that is why I have better luck with pumps than you do:
- First failure, after 4 years, was due to sucking up a piece of epoxy from Hervey's pickup screen
- Second failure was an honest to goodness failure (bearings: pump jumped around like a Mexican jumping bean)
- Third "failure" probably wasn't a failure at all -- I'm pretty sure Louie and I got spooked by a gust of headwind and just threw the spare into the tank as a precaution (you may remember, I replaced that pump free of charge as a warranty item -- if you're getting a new pump for free, why not use it...)

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

If you can't change your pump by flashlight, the spare won't do much good if your pump dies after dark.

Don't need a flashlight if my courtesy lights are working:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2j6kdoyPvR8

Farrar

[h22wut]

Oh man, now that's a good idea.

[Farrar]

Thanks, Cliffwood for the comment!

In other news, my fuel pumps have arrived at O'Reilly's. Like every auto parts store I have always dealt with, they took my phone number and said they would call me when they arrived, and then didn't. I guess I just won't bother asking any more -- I think Advance may have done that once, years ago, but no one does it these days. (And I doubt the girl behind the counter was just trying to get my phone number.)

Unfortunately, I am working until 7pm until next Tuesday and O'Reilly closes at eight, which is not enough time for me to get there. So it looks like I will pick up the new fuel pumps tomorrow morning, and install it tomorrow night or Friday. Still hoping I can get my a/c work done on Saturday.

Farrar

Picked up $140 worth of fuel pumps and 30-amp fuses today. Really hoping the new unit does the trick. I have only one more day until, ostensibly, an a/c repair day in Schriever...

Farrar

New fuel pump has 3/8" NPT fittings. Fuel pump carrier has 1/8" fittings. Will have to go to hardware store to find adapters.

In other news, found out why courtesy lights failed: ground came out of the relay socket. Pushed it back in and held it with a small screwdriver while putting the dimmer module back in; all good now.

Boy, is it hot outside.

Farrar

[content22207]

Are you sure your fittings are 3/8 NPT? That's a pretty big fitting -- 5/8" actual OD (larger than the square head on top of your old pump). I have never seen a fuel pump with fittings that large.

I have seen pumps with 1/4 NPT fittings, which is about 1/2" actual OD.

The bottom of your carrier is already tapped 1/4 NPT. I use a modified 1/8 to 1/4 NPT bushing to connect the pump to the screen through the bottom of the carrier (two 1/8 NPT close couplings are joined end to end inside that bushing).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Are you sure your fittings are 3/8 NPT? That's a pretty big fitting -- 5/8" actual OD (larger than the square head on top of your old pump). I have never seen a fuel pump with fittings that large.

I have seen pumps with 1/4 NPT fittings, which is about 1/2" actual OD.

The bottom of your carrier is already tapped 1/4 NPT. I use a modified 1/8 to 1/4 NPT bushing to connect the pump to the screen through the bottom of the carrier (two 1/8 NPT close couplings are joined end to end inside that bushing).

Bill Robertson
#5939

I was only guessing. Maybe 1/4" is it, though: it is meant for 3/8" fuel hose.

After re-connecting the passenger kneepad (with a whopping two screws!) and its associated electronics (12v sockets and footwell lights), I am once again inside taking an air conditioning break. It's so hot outside that when I took out the glove box I burned myself on the lid, and no matter how much I clean the vinyl it gets coated in sweat before long. I am not sure I will work on the car any more today as it is now the hottest portion of the afternoon. (Heat index 110°F.)

Farrar

[Farrar]

A trip to the Home Depot yielded a proper reducing coupling for the bottom of the new fuel pump (1/4" MIP to 1/8" MIP), but no 90° fitting for the top of the pump. Just to see if I could make it work, I bought a straight 1/4" hose barb, and now I know why Bill uses 90° fittings: you can't get the closing plate on if you use a straight barb.

After looking at the amount of crud collected in the top of the fuel pump boot, I have decided to make a rubber splash skirt to hang off the back of that spare tire closing plate like Bill did, to stop water from coming up over the top of the tank. I have some black vinyl around which I bought for another purpose; if I can't get a piece of inner tube or something at e.g. Harbor Freight, I will just use some of that black vinyl. (Meant for the interior, but who cares?)

Good news: the pump is made in U.S.A.
Bad news: so was the old one.

Good news: I found the weatherstrip I was planning to use for my new trunk seal.
Bad news: it's raining again.

Well, I have my lights fixed ... so if it stops raining before it's very late indeed, I can give the fuel pump a 90° hose barb. I am off to Lowe's to see if they prove more useful than Home Depot in that vein.

Farrar

[Bitsyncmaster]

Try some local hardware stores for brass pipe fittings. Often I find a better selection at those than the large chain stores.

[Farrar]

Try some local hardware stores for brass pipe fittings. Often I find a better selection at those than the large chain stores.

Survey says: Ding ding ding ding ding!

Yup, I found a male-to-female elbow at my friendly neighborhood Ace Hardware. (Not as nice as Blackhawk, but still better than Lowe's and Home Depot.) A little Teflon tape and voila --

3542

Problem solved!

I can now feel like I accomplished something today.

Farrar

[sean]

Problem solved!


Nice! Pretty clean install.

[Farrar]

Nice! Pretty clean install.

Thanks, Sean! I like to keep my mods unobtrusive and reversible.

Farrar

[sean]

I know you are utilizing the groves in the boot but since you are not running a boot cover, which you should, you should run a piece of padding or some other barrier to keep the boot clamp off the wires. You are asking for a split or cut wire(s).

[sdg3205]

Farrar,

Did you drain your tank first? Do you use the stock DMC baffle?

I've got a tank dissection next week.

I was thinking of literally pumping the fuel via the fuel pump itself (jump RPM relay) into my Jeep tank, with a filter somewhere along the way.

[sean]

I was thinking of literally pumping the fuel via the fuel pump itself (jump RPM relay) into my Jeep tank, with a filter somewhere along the way.

This will work, just make sure you are moving good gas or you'll clog up your jeep.

[content22207]

That looks like an Airtex pump end -- did you go with another Airtex unit?

Bill Robertson
#5939

[sdg3205]

This will work, just make sure you are moving good gas or you'll clog up your jeep.

Totally.

This is to investigate the bucking and stalling I've had after about an hour of traffic idling. Pretty sure I'l going to find some debris and a rotten pick up hose.

[sean]

Totally.

This is to investigate the bucking and stalling I've had after about an hour of traffic idling. Pretty sure I'l going to find some debris and a rotten pick up hose.

Could also be a collapsing pickup hose, especially if it is an original hose.

[Farrar]

That looks like an Airtex pump end -- did you go with another Airtex unit?

Yep, Airtex E8090. $63.99 at O'Reilly's. But not normally in stock, so I bought a spare.


I know you are utilizing the groves in the boot but since you are not running a boot cover, which you should, you should run a piece of padding or some other barrier to keep the boot clamp off the wires. You are asking for a split or cut wire(s).

Thanks for that -- I will move those wires! Stock cap will not work -- has two holes and I would only need one; I am installing a splash shield behind the pump. Will illustrate with video tomorrow.

Farrar

[stevedmc]

Yep, Airtex E8090. $63.99 at O'Reilly's. But not normally in stock, so I bought a spare.

My Airtex pump failed 150 miles from home today. Fortunately I had a spare Airtex pump and was able to get back on the road after a quick road side replacement.

This was my first fuel pump failure but given our luck with Airtex pumps I do not trust them. I picked up the made in china pump at Autozone today for my new spare. I will not be buying anymore Airtex fuel pumps for 16510.

[sean]

Stock cap will not work -- has two holes and I would only need one; I am installing a splash shield behind the pump. Will illustrate with video tomorrow.

Farrar
I'd still say throw a stock cover on their and plug the other hose opening. Water has a funny way of finding itself there.

[content22207]

... I will not be buying anymore Airtex fuel pumps for 16510.

I tried the Mr. Gasket (made by Prestolite) pump on one of my church's school buses, but was disappointed with its output. It only registered 4 PSI on a dash pressure gauge, dropping to zero as the needle valve opened, rendering the dash gauge useless.

These Airtex pumps seem to be all over the map. John Marconi installed his pump Spring 2009 and is still running on it. I believe Bob Babcock is still running his first pump, including trips to Michigan and Pennsylvania. My first pump lasted Spring 2004 to Spring 2008, at which time its death was caused by a piece of sucked up epoxy (you know who's pickup screen).

Poor Farrar, meanwhile, goes through a pump every week.

What kind of failures are you experiencing? My epoxy killed pump just sat there like a bump on a log (didn't do anything). I lost one pump to what appeared to be bearing failure (jumped around so much it was difficult to hold in my hand). It is possible my third pump did not die (the car bogged down just as Louie and I were passing an off ramp, so we zipped off the interstate, into the gas station at the top, and threw the spare into the tank -- it could have been a gust of headwind).

The pump currently in my tank got me Alabama to New Orleans, then went to/from Lexington, Pennsylvania, and DC twice, but I won't hesitate for a second to throw my spare in there if necessary.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[stevedmc]

What kind of failures are you experiencing? My epoxy killed pump just sat there like a bump on a log (didn't do anything). I lost one pump to what appeared to be bearing failure (jumped around so much it was difficult to hold in my hand). It is possible my third pump did not die (the car bogged down just as Louie and I were passing an off ramp, so we zipped off the interstate, into the gas station at the top, and threw the spare into the tank -- it could have been a gust of headwind).

The pump currently in my tank got me Alabama to New Orleans, then went to/from Lexington, Pennsylvania, and DC twice, but I won't hesitate for a second to throw my spare in there if necessary.

Bill Robertson
#5939

I'm going to respond to this in the carb thread for sake of constancy.

[Farrar]

It is possible my third pump did not die (the car bogged down just as Louie and I were passing an off ramp...

This is what happened to me; frustratingly, the pump would work again after the car had sat for a little bit, leading me to think that it was not the fuel pump. So I manufactured a shop assistant out of a tripod and a videocamera: I set up the camera to record the gauge readings while I went back to the engine compartment and started 'er up. When the engine died, I looked at the recording. Although after a few minutes I could turn the key and hear the pump run, it was definitely not running when I listened to the recording (doors were closed to eliminate extraneous noise on the recording), so I deduced that I had fuel pump failure.

Mind you, I haven't had a chance to run the engine for more than five minutes since I installed the pump, but I should get the chance later today; I will let you know how it works out. Fingers crossed.

Steve, let me know what you use for your next fuel pump -- I'd love to tell AirTex goodbye.

Farrar

[stevedmc]

Steve, let me know what you use for your next fuel pump -- I'd love to tell AirTex goodbye.

Farrar

Right now Airtex is in my fuel tank but I picked up a made in china unit from Autozone for my new spare. I plan on removing the Airtex unit eventually and installing the made in china part. I will keep the Airtex unit as my spare.

[Farrar]

Didn't get anything done on the car yesterday, and won't tonight either. However, my relay sockets, terminals, and crimp tool arrived so I am ready to tackle the relay compartment -- later in the week if I'm lucky. Also, I will post my solution for protecting the top of the fuel pump from rain water when I have it. It will be very similar to Bill Robertson's...

Edit: While looking for a sno-ball stand, I passed an honest-to-goodness Machine Shop yesterday -- right in my neighborhood! :D

Farrar

[Farrar]

Glory or insanity awaits!

3767

Farrar

[sean]

Glory or insanity awaits!


Either way their will be a lot of work and a sore back involved.

[Farrar]

Either way their will be a lot of work and a sore back involved.

That's a given whenever I work on the car!

You forgot about dripping a pint of sweat down into the relay/fuse area.

I also usually end up with cuts and scrapes, and extremely dirty and/or broken fingernails. Fortunately, my girlfriend is used to this. "Good morning! Are you working on the car today? OK, I'll see you tonight." :lol:

Farrar

[sean]

You forgot about dripping a pint of sweat down into the relay/fuse area.


and those nice finger calluses conveniently located in the oddest of places.

[Ron]

I also usually end up with cuts and scrapes, and extremely dirty and/or broken fingernails. Fortunately, my girlfriend is used to this.
So, you are going to make her do it!?! Marry her NOW!

[Farrar]

So, you are going to make her do it!?! Marry her NOW!

Not so fast -- I've gotta save up the cash for the 18-piece big band I plan to have at the reception. ;)

Farrar

[Bitsyncmaster]

Not so fast -- I've gotta save up the cash for the 18-piece big band I plan to have at the reception. ;)

Farrar

I hope all forum members get and invite:tongue2:

[sean]

I hope all forum members get and invite:tongue2:

Open bar....Im there! better save for that Farrar!

[Farrar]

Open bar....Im there! better save for that Farrar!

Dude. This is New Orleans. We drink at funerals. We don't even need music to dance. Ponder that, and think of what kind of gentle, gorgeous chaos a wedding reception can be. :)

Farrar

[sean]

Dude. This is New Orleans. We drink at funerals. We don't even need music to dance. Ponder that, and think of what kind of gentle, gorgeous chaos a wedding reception can be. :)

Farrar


Note to self: seriously befriend Farrar by wedding date.

[Farrar]

Back to "Farrar's Car Blog" now... I am seriously thinking of 30-year-old wiring meant for 35-watt headlight bulbs, the headlight switch, and new 55-watt H4 bulbs, and it makes me nervous.

I think there is enough space behind the fake grille to mount two relays for the headlights; I will run a new 12v wire from the battery with a waterproof fuse holder, and a relay for the low beams and high beams. This way the headlight switch will only be switching the relay, instead of 110 watts of low beams and 120 watts of high beams. I do a lot of nighttime driving, and I don't want a melted headlight switch. So adding relays behind the fake grille sounds like a good idea to me. What do y'all think?

Farrar

[content22207]

Look at the wiring diagram -- headlights are on relays already. Only side and tail light amperage passes through the switch.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Only side and tail light amperage passes through the switch.

So what melts the switch? Do the tail lights and side lights draw that much current?

Farrar

[AdmiralSenn]

I am fairly certain that the headlight's full current passes through the switch - hence the extremely common modification of a relay behind the switch, as sold by several trusted and reputable vendors.

I recall many conversations about this on the old site. The consensus, if I recall correctly, was that the switch is actually "downstream" of the relays, and that this was a colossally stupid way to wire it.

[content22207]

I am fairly certain that the headlight's full current passes through the switch

Nonsense:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=84&d=1306264501

Bill Robertson
#5939

[AdmiralSenn]

You're right, my mistake. It is just the side lamps and markers. I am not sure where this notion of mine came from, as I just checked my sources and all of them agree with the diagram.

Pay no attention to the man behind the keyboard!

[Farrar]

All right; I will try to come up with an LED solution to the current draw problem.

In the meantime, I have a new problem: the new pump is too tall with that reducing coupling at the bottom of it -- I can't get the access panel (under the spare tire) back on.

It's too buggy to work outside even with my work light, and rain is forecast for tomorrow through the end of the week; this will have to wait until the weekend.

Meh.

Farrar

[Ron]

You're right, my mistake. It is just the side lamps and markers. I am not sure where this notion of mine came from, as I just checked my sources and all of them agree with the diagram.

Pay no attention to the man behind the keyboard!
Don't feel too bad...it also supplies power to illuminate the instrument panel (5 bulbs), license plate (2), cigar lighter, itself, and clock (early).

[Farrar]

It just occurred to me that it would be far easier to hang the skirt from the body of the car itself. DOH! Now if only I hadn't drilled those holes in the spare tire well access cover! Oh, well -- it was already broken in several places. I can either buy another one from Houston, or use it to teach myself fiberglass repair. :)

Farrar

[content22207]

I think you will find initial installation and later maintenance easier if you attach the splash guard to the removable panel.

The splash guard does not drop straight down -- it angles rearward behind the pump boot:
4042
That's why my rubber was cut too short -- I measured straight down. One of these days I hope to replace it with a piece that is the correct length.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Hm, my splash guard is ten inches tall and the entire length of the access panel. Maybe I made mine too big! I will have some time to experiment later this week.

Farrar

[sean]

4042


I like it, but Id still run a fuel pump boot cover.

[Farrar]

I really hate those pump covers, so I will avoid using one if possible. For now, I will see if I can use a belt or suspenders, instead of both.

Farrar

[sean]

I really hate those pump covers, so I will avoid using one if possible. For now, I will see if I can use a belt or suspenders, instead of both.

Farrar

Well the cover is there for more reasons than water from above.

[Farrar]

Well the cover is there for more reasons than water from above.

Enlighten me. :)

Farrar

[content22207]

Hm, my splash guard is ten inches tall and the entire length of the access panel.

You can't run the full width of the access cover, otherwise the guard won't clear the heater core hoses.

Mine is 8.125" tall (with the Gorilla Tape extension) and 14.125" wide:

Pump covers suck. They are a PITA to install, they shrink with time, and they crack. I think you'll be very pleased with a splash guard. Even after driving to Virginia Beach in the rain, the next day I only had a couple of drops of water in the boot when I took the pump out to show someone my tuna baffle.

Remember that most aftermarket fuel pumps are designed to be frame mounted:
4043
In such a location they are exposed to far more water than they will ever see in a DeLorean pump boot.

Lotus could have saved us all a lot of trouble if they had just put the plenum drain at the outside edge, next to the fender (as the Ford Truck Division does, thank you very much).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[sean]

Driving in the rain hitting a huge water puddle, driving over dirt patches or roads, general air moisture. Do as you wish Farrar but as poorly engineered as the car was I think covering the fuel pump is worthwhile long term. Of course at the rate you guys are replacing pumps I suppose long term is not an issue. It amazes me how resistant you are to an ounce of prevention here. If its a matter of not wanting to spend the money on a cover, fine, then cover that cat with some gorilla tape.

[sean]

Pump covers suck. They are a PITA to install, they shrink with time, and they crack.


So do the fascias, so should we start leaving them off the car? Great reasons not to use one by the way, its hard to put on and can wear :confused2:.

[content22207]

Driving in the rain hitting a huge water puddle, driving over dirt patches or roads, general air moisture....

Aftermarket pumps are designed to be frame mounted (ie: exposed to huge water puddles, dirt patches, general air moisture, etc). Please try again.

Ford truck fuel pumps (electric) are mounted to the frame from the factory.
4044
(As you can clearly see, they are also designed for road salt exposure -- this truck came out of New Jersey).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[sean]

Please try again.


No need to, you made it clear that if something is to hard to do you just wont do it.

[content22207]

May I humbly suggest that you try to work smarter, not harder. It might make you a more pleasant person.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[sean]

May I humbly suggest that you try to work smarter, not harder. It might make you a more pleasant person.

Bill Robertson
#5939
HA! look at you acting like you know me. Anyway, keep on trucking Bill.

Farrar, I sincerely hope you consider covering the pump even if it is hard to do, which is is not despite Bills opinion.

[Farrar]

It's not mere exposure to water -- it's the fact that the top of the fuel pump is lower than the top of the boot and the boot is sealed against fuel leaks. Because of this setup, water, once it has arrived, has no way to drain out.

I am going to consider covering the pump, but I have to perform a test first. I will install my own water guard, and then pour a bunch of water over the hood and windshield. Then I will look at the pump to see how wet it is. If I need a cover, I will seek something more permanent than a rubber cap (which will shrink in hot weather as New Orleans has for 9 months out of the year) -- for example, a plastic cap with a rubber grommet in the middle for the fuel hose to poke through.

Farrar

[sean]

If I need a cover, I will seek something more permanent than a rubber cap (which will shrink in hot weather as New Orleans has for 9 months out of the year) -- for example, a plastic cap with a rubber grommet in the middle for the fuel hose to poke through.

If you go this route keep us posted on what you choose.

[Farrar]

If you go this route keep us posted on what you choose.

How come? It wouldn't be of any use to a K-Jet user since it will only have one hole for a fuel line. Ah, well. I will probably take pictures anyway. :)

Farrar

[sean]

How come?

Damn Farrar, if you dont want to then dont.

[content22207]

Ignore Sean. I know three owners running splash guards, and all of us are quite happy with them.

I think your pump problems are caused by poor grounding. Notice you suffer motor failures, not bearing or vane failures. I would try grounding the pump directly to the frame and see if that doesn't work better (assuming your crappy braided strap at the motor mount is still halfway usable).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

Damn Farrar, if you dont want to then dont.

:lol:

Calm down, dude! I am trying to get some humour back into this thread.

Remember, you've gotta earn that wedding invitation. (That's a joke, too -- get it? :))

Farrar

[sean]

Remember, you've gotta earn that wedding invitation. (That's a joke, too -- get it? :))


Shoot, Im afraid to come now. Might get slipped some of that Robertson koolaid and end up taking horse and buggy home.:cheers:


:grouphugg:

[Farrar]

I think your pump problems are caused by poor grounding. Notice you suffer motor failures, not bearing or vane failures. I would try grounding the pump directly to the frame and see if that doesn't work better (assuming your crappy braided strap at the motor mount is still halfway usable).

I have a second engine block ground which you installed for me after the fire (back when we thought it was electrically-caused). As for better grounding of the pump, I may try seeking a better ground for the inertia switch as I don't think I want to lose that safety feature.

Farrar

[content22207]

There are quite a few DeLoreans with melted inertia switch connectors, #5939 among them -- I don't think the damn things are grounded worth 2 cents.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

There are quite a few DeLoreans with melted inertia switch connectors, #5939 among them -- I don't think the damn things are grounded worth 2 cents.

Sounds like a good addition to my ground bus.

Now we'll switch gears entirely and enter the realm of the hypothetical.

[insert spooky music here...]

I found something else I want to do in the future: install a time-delay relay on the power window circuit. I am sick and tired of turning the car off and taking the key out, only to discover that I left the windows down for the Nth time and I have to put the key back in and turn it on in order to roll up the windows again. :lol:

Farrar

[content22207]

The Blue/White junction is right next to the door lock circuit breaker -- just cut the windows loose from the junction and reconnect them to the circuit breaker (live all the time). You would only need to add an inch or two of wire.

Nevermind: the windows are Green/White. You can still use the circuit breaker (or any other protection that tickles your fancy), but you'd need to cut the windows loose under the console (that's where the Green/White junction is).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

I was actually planning on adding a relay to the power window circuit anyway, in advance of my re-doing the center console armrest -- and, in the process, replacing the stock window switches with different ones. The reason for this is that the window switches I bought have a relatively low amperage rating.

I will post a schematic of my future power window circuit later.

Farrar

Actually, I checked the switches and they're rated for 10 amps at 12v DC, so that should be fine. No relays to add except the delay relay. Using this guide (http://www.wolstentech.com/products/timedelayrelay/app8.php) as a ... er .. guide, I came up with this:

4048

I'm no electrician, so someone please correct me if I've made a mistake here.

Thanks,
Farrar

I also made this for the cooling fan circuit. However, I forgot to label the relay terminals. They should be self-explanatory, but for reference they are:

top: 86
left: 30
right: 87
bottom: 85 and 87A.

I have just discovered OpenOffice "Draw." Hooray for being able to draw straight lines without a ruler! (I can never find my ruler.) :D

Farrar

[Farrar]

I think I found a place to get my alignment done... Not too far from my new apartment, I found an honest-to-goodness alignment shop -- yep, that's all they do! And judging from the look of their shop, they still do things the old-fashioned way. How nice it would be to not have someone saying "Well, your car's not in the computer..."

Farrar

[stevedmc]

I think I found a place to get my alignment done...

I can get you a free alignment at Firestone if you are interested in swapping vin tags. I purchased the lifetime alignment plan a few weeks back at Firestone and am looking to get my money's worth.

[sean]

I can get you a free alignment at Firestone if you are interested in swapping vin tags. I purchased the lifetime alignment plan a few weeks back at Firestone and am looking to get my money's worth.

Is that regardless of the tires on the car?

[stevedmc]

Is that regardless of the tires on the car?

Its for as long as I own the car and isn't transferable hence needing to swap vin tags. I paid $180 including taxes, fees, and whatever other nickel and diming they could think of.

I verified with the manager that it is for the life of the car, as often as I want, no mileage limits, and absolutely no future cost including shop fees. Considering that an alignment cost $80 I think I got a pretty good deal. As long as Firestone doesn't go bankrupt I am all set.

When I get around to replacing one of my rear shocks (long story) I am going to bring the thing in again for another alignment.

[sean]

I paid $180 including taxes, fees, and whatever other nickel and diming they could think of.

Great deal if it follows the car while you own it!

[Ron]

I'm no electrician, so someone please correct me if I've made a mistake here.That delay module is only rated 10A max...you might want to use a relay as in the guide.

[Farrar]

Thanks, Ron! I will sketch something up and see if it works.

In other news, I can't use my new fuel pump yet, because there's a coupling stuck in the bottom of the fuel pump carrier which I can't remove. Bill Robertson must have the best thread-lock compound on the planet...

It will have to wait until Sunday.

Farrar

[Farrar]

That delay module is only rated 10A max...you might want to use a relay as in the guide.

You mean like this?

4197

Farrar

[content22207]

In other news, I can't use my new fuel pump yet, because there's a coupling stuck in the bottom of the fuel pump carrier which I can't remove. Bill Robertson must have the best thread-lock compound on the planet...


I bet it isn't a fitting -- it's probably the threaded end of a piece of tubing that extends all the way through the pipe cap (that's how mine is). Hold the tubing still and spin the cap off like a big nut.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Ron]

You mean like this?
Farrar
That would work, but the load is still going through the delay module. Actually, that's how the switched line coming in is stock (but feeds a lot of things). They should add "Enable" to their relay...it got me too. lol

I'd try this:
4205

[Farrar]

That would work, but the load is still going through the delay module. Actually, that's how the switched line coming in is stock (but feeds a lot of things). They should add "Enable" to their relay...it got me too. lol

I'd try this:
4205

Ahhhh I see now. That, combined with the coffee I had this morning, makes a lot more sense than what I came up with last night. :)

Thanks!

Farrar

[sean]

Ahhhh I see now. That, combined with the coffee I had this morning, makes a lot more sense than what I came up with last night. :)

Im starting to think you should not open up DMCTalk until the first cup of joe has been downed. Been living by that for a few years now.

[Farrar]

Im starting to think you should not open up DMCTalk until the first cup of joe has been downed. Been living by that for a few years now.

The corollary to that would be that I can't go online after I've had a beer. And as we all know, the Internet is more fun with alcohol. ;)

Hey, where's that "Coffee" emoticon we used to have? :cool:

Farrar

[sean]

The corollary to that would be that I can't go online after I've had a beer. And as we all know, the Internet is more fun with alcohol. ;)
I've done some regrettable posts in the past that way :8ball:.


Hey, where's that "Coffee" emoticon we used to have? :cool:
I know! I gotta talk to mike about that, he headed up the smiles.

[Farrar]

Just thought I'd share a little news with everyone:

I'm finally at a point in my life where I can afford to go back to school, at least part-time. So starting next week, I will begin the task of finishing up my degree, which I started in 1997. Yep, I will be a 32-year-old college sophomore.

So I will have even less time to work on the car! :lol: But it can wait -- I've put off my education for far too long.

Best,
Farrar

[sean]

I'm finally at a point in my life where I can afford to go back to school, at least part-time. So starting next week, I will begin the task of finishing up my degree, which I started in 1997. Yep, I will be a 32-year-old college sophomore.


Hey man, congrats for jumping back in. Regardless of how long the journey is the feeling you have when you get that expensive little piece of paper is pretty awesome. I'm assuming you are no longer "Undecided" so what's your major?

[Farrar]

Hey man, congrats for jumping back in. Regardless of how long the journey is the feeling you have when you get that expensive little piece of paper is pretty awesome. I'm assuming you are no longer "Undecided" so what's your major?

Thanks!

I haven't signed up for any classes yet. I will be seeking a Bachelor of Liberal Arts in Music. No concentration yet; I will discuss that with my adviser on Monday. I plan to minor in business or administration of some sort, too -- my goal is to be Program Director of a classical music station some day.

Farrar

[stevedmc]

Thanks!

I haven't signed up for any classes yet. I will be seeking a Bachelor of Liberal Arts in Music. No concentration yet; I will discuss that with my adviser on Monday. I plan to minor in business or administration of some sort, too -- my goal is to be Program Director of a classical music station some day.

Farrar

Have you considered testing out of some stuff with CLEP testing? I tested out of at least 30 hours worth of classes thanks to CLEP and study guides at www.instacert.com. It took me about a year to get my Associates degree and about 10 years to get my Bachelors.

[Ron]

+1 on the CLEP tests!

IIRC, ~$50.00 and a 1 hour multiple guess test v/s a quarter or semester is a no-brainer.

[Farrar]

Now that I've made sure it's possible, I ordered my time-delay relay for the power window circuit. Looking forward to working on this.

I am not looking forward to working on the fuel pump carrier... I see a hacksaw in my future.

Farrar

[content22207]

I am not looking forward to working on the fuel pump carrier... I see a hacksaw in my future.

What have you done to the poor thing?

If I am understanding correctly, you have a 1/8 to 1/4 NPT bushing turned upside down inside the carrier, now stuck on the original pipe. NPT threads are tapered, and brass can gall like stainless steel, so your bushing may well be stuck for good. I have snapped the threads off more than a few stuck brass NPT fittings over the years myself.

I would simply cut off the original pipe, then grab the the stuck bushing and use it to turn the remaining threads out of the carrier. If you want to use a pump with 1/4 NPT ports, just tap the bottom of the carrier 1/4 NPT (I'm pretty certain yours is currently tapped 1/8 NPT). Is your new pickup screen 1/4 NPT as well?

BTW: there is no pressure (above atmospheric) before the pump, and only a couple of PSI after it, so there's no need to tighten the everliving daylights out of these brass fittings.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Farrar]

I would simply cut off the original pipe, then grab the the stuck bushing and use it to turn the remaining threads out of the carrier.

With the help of a 7/16" deep socket, this is what I did. You had made the equivalent of a 1/8" NPT close nipple, only a little longer. The hole in the bottom of the pipe cap is not tapped all the way through, so I could only turn the close nipple out from one direction.


Is your new pickup screen 1/4 NPT as well?

No; I am re-using the old one.

Farrar

[content22207]

If I remember correctly, your exact words were "I want a carb setup just like yours..."

(You and I are the only ones with that custom piece of pipe. Everyone else has a collection of brass fittings).

McMaster Carr has the best selection of brass fittings. With their help you can adapt that carrier to fit anything.

Bill Robertson
#5939