New to DMC & Sudden Multiple Issues

[Shark Pilot]

Hey Folks,

I'l try NOT to be verbose, but I'm a SAAB guy entering into the long awaited DMC realm after 5 years of ownership, but not actually driving the darn car due to combat tours and renovation time.

History: Car purchased from AZ owner while in Iraq 2009. Shipped to Bauerle Automotive and refurbished over the next 4 years and two combat tours. Stage II upgrade, custom (annoyingly loud and catless) exhaust, remote doors and a host of other minor electrical and aesthetic upgrades as well as transmission rebuild. Car had 11,300 and now has 13,000 since I've been driving the crap out of it thanks to my SAAB Viggen being down for maintenance (repairs/upgrades).

1./ The car was driving like the bomb diggity and ALWAYS fired up within 2-3 seconds then one day within a week of taking it out of winter storage I turned it over, hot starting after a Home Depot run, and its run like CRAP ever since. Two weeks now. Starts hard ALWAYS now regardless of hot or cold, but reliably and reluctantly grumbles to life within 10 secs every time (though it sounds like arse). Likes to pause under load in each gear until I've revved it past 2800. Does it less when warm.

- Replaced ignition coil and wires with Pertronix 40kva coil, 8mm blue silicone wires, new K&N filter and "shielded" core wire from core to cap. I thought maybe my coil went and wasn't burning off fuel. This did nothing but allow for the car to start badly quicker. Not sure if that's good or bad as the problem is obviously NOT the ignition system.

- Brand new Bosch fuel injectors on the way and a new accumulator (both on my car are original) because of stuff I've read in these forums in terms of common failures and I pulled injectors 2&3 and they look like poo covered with rust/corrosion. I think the issue is fuel related, but whatever it is, it happened quickly. The car was working brilliantly, then 20 mins later the car just wouldn't run well at ALL and has been that way since.

2./ On the way to work this morning I experienced a sudden and violent uncommanded throttle accelleration shifting between 3rd and 4th gears. I saw 8000 rpm before I tapped the pedal and it decided to go back to idle. It scared the HELL out of me. What was that?? I've read the "sticky" and "sticking" throttle threads because I have idle issues too, but nobody has mentioned this weirdness. Ideas?

3./ Brakes violently vibrate when applied causing steering wheel shake and the car does NOT brake well. I'm assuming this is a warped rotor fault as the rotors are the original 32 year old ones. Ideas? Thinking of new rotors and pads all around.

I have more, but that's enough for now. I have scoured this forum (and the UK one) for days doing research, but I need some ideas on the engine and throttle faults that I have at least. Based on what I've read it could be one thing or another. Argh! I had a 1984 BMW 633, but this DMC-12 is like, arcane compared to that car so I'm a little out of my league here starting out with DIY. I will get it, but I hope you guys can help bend my learning curve a bit. I'm a UH-60 Blackhawk Test Pilot so I have the mechanical know-how and tools, but not the KNOWLEDGE as it relates to this model. Please help as it's been a little embarrassing for me to drive the car the way it performs/sounds: mallet:.

Patrick

[Michael]

I can't help you much with the fuel delivery issue since I know next to nothing about KJet, but the throttle sticking I would suggest you remove the spring, clean it, and lube it(I just did mine yesterday). Make it part of a routine schedule, say every other month or 6 months, or every 5k miles. Don't forget to check the spring and plate next to the intake as well. Also check your cable, if it's sticky, then you may want to replace the throttle cable.

Brakes, that's a sign of a warped rotor. If you feel it in the wheel, most likely one or both front rotors. If those are original pads then definitely replace them no matter how much pad is left. I'm going to assume you have already replaced the brake fluid.

[Dangermouse]

Patrick,

you will get better and quicker answers if you post this in the main General Discussion folder, rather than in this Resources sub-folder. Many of our technical people just live in teh main folder :)

I'm with Michael on the warped rotors also

[Shark Pilot]

Thanks guys! And Dermot I thoght I was in the General, at least that's what I clicked on. Still trying to figure out how to navigate this site. Will re-post in general.

[Jonathan]

Welcome back Patrick and welcome aboard the good ship DeLorean.

A couple questions/clarifications:

For the 1st issue, you mentioned your car has seen 1,700 miles since you've owned it (was 11,300 and is now 13,000). You also mention it having this issue within one week of coming out of winter storage. Can I ask you how many miles you have or had put on it THIS season since it came out of storage? And with that in mind, how was the car's fuel system stored? Tank full with stabilizer added? Tank near empty with stabilizer added? Without stabilizer added? Drained? Have you gotten a fresh tank of gas this season since it came out of storage?

For the 2nd issue on the RPMs jumping, would this have been what you'd expect to see if you were on the gas in neutral in any other situation? It does sound like the throttle was stuck at whatever amount you were pressing it when driving in 3rd gear and needed to go into 4th. I was wondering if maybe there was some cruise control system installed that hit the gas unexpectedly, but the sticky throttle spool or cable sounds more likely. As Michael said, you will benefit from getting it lubed. Sorry, I don't remember seeing if you mentioned where you live, and what your weather is like of late. I think that Bauerle Auto you mentioned is in Ohio, right? The temperatures have been pretty cold in many areas and I wonder if you have had your deice shield/kit safety recall done or not? It might not have mattered for a car that was in Arizona, but it can in the NorthEast. In your engine bay, are there any red or blue paint spots on the firewall just to the left of the engine cover stay bracket? Or is your throttle spool covered with a shield bolted onto the W pipe? Got an engine bay photo for us? or your VIN?

With the brakes, as was mentioned, 32 year old brake parts are good candidates for replacement. You'll know more when you have them apart, but expect to replace fluid, pads, sounds like rotors and perhaps the piston seals or pistons themselves if they are gummed up. Brand new replacement calipers as a package seem elusive, but rebuilding them should be well within your abilities.

Does your car shimmy shake at speed without the brakes pressed?

How would you describe your idle problems/situation? Hunting? High?

[NightFlyer]

The running issues you describe sound like a vacuum leak, but could also be fuel or ignition related. Check all the vacuum lines. You can also spray carb cleaner around the engine parts where leaks commonly form to help identify where you might have a leak. Smoke machine is the best way to find vacuum leaks, but isn't always a practical option. If you identify a leak, you'll of course want to repair whatever is causing the leak.

The fuel accumulator wouldn't cause what you're describing, unless there was a complete failure of your existing accumulator, which is relatively rare. You can test for complete failure by pulling the single hose off the back of the accumulator, plugging that hose, installing a temp hose on the barb and running the other end into a bucket or something to catch fuel in, jumping the fuel pump on via the RPM relay, and assessing the amount of fuel that's coming out of the back of the accumulator. Ideally, there should be none (perfect/new) or a miniscule amount of fuel (worn) coming from the hose. If you're seeing a non-stop constant stream with good pressure though, then you're accumulator has indeed suffered a rare complete failure and will need to be replaced. The only other reason to change the accumulator is if it's causing hot start problems due to being overly worn or you begin noticing chunks of degraded rubber diaphragm in the fuel lines or fuel filter.

As to the brakes, could be a warped rotor, especially if you're hard on the brakes. If you're not very hard on the brakes though, then it's probably more likely to be a stuck or seized pot/piston in the caliper(s). The rear soft lines can also plug virtually solid, causing inconsistent performance. If you're pulling rotors, then may as well rebuild all the calipers with new rubber while you're at it. If the soft lines are plugged at all, then you'll want to change those out as well. Whether or not you need new pots/pistons is something that you'll have to assess once you have the old ones out.

Best of luck!

[Rich_NYS]

I know I'm not the only one who read his post like this:

Car doesn't start, .....etc, etc, etc.

1. ..........

2. .........

3. .........

UH-60 Blackhawk Test Pilot

:rock_on:


(Welcome, and thanks for your service! )