Window Glass Decal Removal

[Citizen]

On the back glass, there is a decal of some medical facility in Georgia that the PO must have put on there. For all I know, it could be that it's been on there since new and I want to remove it. Normally I'd try a paint scraper/razor, but since it is on the back glass, I'm afraid I will damage the back glass window defroster (looks like small wires mounted on the back glass).

Anyone know how to easily remove a 33 year old decal from glass without damaging anything? Is there a solvent or something? And for that matter, how about removing decades old window tint? Maybe the same procedure would work for both?

Thomas

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[Michael]

I have done this using a combination of a razor blade being very careful not to touch the defroster grid. The remainder can be taken off with lacquer thinner.

You might try laquer thinner first and get lucky. Be careful with the thinner, it will easily melt the plastic trim in the car so don't get it on anything other than the glass.

[Mike F]

I trick that I was taught by a tinter years ago is to spray the tint down with ammonia, place a large black garbage against the window, and park the car in the sun for a while. The ammonia loosens the glue, and the tint slides right off. You then just clean off the loose glue residue. This really only works if the tint isn't overly dried out and brittle, and if there hasn't been any attempt to peel it off already. This technique may also work on that sticker.


Goes without saying, but don't sit in the car while the tint sweats off, and wear breathing protection when working in the car afterwards until you get it very well ventilated! The fumes aren't pleasant!

[Farrar]

In my experience, lighter fluid (naptha) is fairly nonreactive with most plastics. You might try dabbing a bit on an inconspicuous spot of the tint, wait for it to evaporate, and see if it has any effect on the tint. If it were me, I'd try soaking the decal with lighter fluid and using gentle pressure with a plastic scraper, trying to avoid a metal razor blade.

Thus endeth my 2¢.

[Ron]

Turtle Wax and a lot of others make removers. I've had good luck with "Sticker Shock".
Depending on how porous it is, you may want to score it parallel with the heating elements first.
Being patient while it soaks is key.

[Flicky]

I like goo-gone for gluey things. A picture of the sticker would be helpful. I'm guessing it is a little square thing with plastic backed paper with glue. I'd score the plastic with a razor, being very careful and bracing my hands with each other so no random movement could take out the grid, then juice it up with the goo-gone and wait till it turns the glue to a liquid, then clean up with glass cleaner.

You can usually get it at wal-mart or some auto stores. Goof-off works too, but is more reactive and stinky.

Here is what the bottle looks like:
http://www.amazon.com/Homax-Oz-Goo-Gone-GG12/dp/B00006IBNJ/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1401123067&sr=8-16&keywords=goof-off

[Mike F]

Turtle Wax and a lot of others make removers. I've had good luck with "Sticker Shock".
Depending on how porous it is, you may want to score it parallel with the heating elements first.
Being patient while it soaks is key.

+1 on Sticker Shock. I've used that before and it worked really well.

[Flicky]

Another tip would be to heat it up with a hair dryer first.

[David T]

Nobody uses the rear defogger anyway so I would not worry about damaging the traces.

[mluder]

Nobody uses the rear defogger anyway so I would not worry about damaging the traces.

I've used it before... Here in the Pacific Northwest it comes in handy. Damp and cold here sometimes.

Cheers
Steven

[djdogbone]

I've used WD40 or goo-gone.