How To: Door lock solenoid REPLACEMENT with actuator

[ALEXAKOS]

It was actually as easy as 1.2.3.

You will need:
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz135/alex-akos/delo%20resto/DSC00303_zps77391dd3.jpg
- Actuator
- a stainless steel thin bolt and screw to fit through actuator hole
- 1 inch piping wall mount
- a stainless steel bolt and screw to attach piping mounting onto door

First remove Solenoid:
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz135/alex-akos/delo%20resto/DSC00313_zpsade9ee10.jpg

Mount screw onto bolt so you can tighten easily and put onto the rear solenoid mounting hole on you door
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz135/alex-akos/delo%20resto/DSC00315_zps5ffaaab7.jpg

Screw on and tighten rear part of piping wall mount
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz135/alex-akos/delo%20resto/DSC00316_zpsb2d88857.jpg

Screw on front piping mount and slide in the actuator upside down
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz135/alex-akos/delo%20resto/DSC00307_zps4e556a77.jpg
And tighten

You will notice your actuator's hole is right across the initial solenoid's mounting hole.
Put your small bolt through that hole and tighten with the screw.
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz135/alex-akos/delo%20resto/DSC00309_zps6b32fd28.jpg

Just clip the actuator on
http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz135/alex-akos/delo%20resto/DSC00310_zps89d2f234.jpg

I tried it many times, it sits perfectly without it being stressed during operation.

http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz135/alex-akos/delo%20resto/DSC00317_zps048e21e0.jpg

I simply connected the wiring onto the solenoid's wiring and will then replace the door lock module with a simple actuator module from ebay.

[djdogbone]

How does this affect the "door lock" light on the dash?

[sdg3205]

How does this affect the "door lock" light on the dash?

It doesn't!

[robvanderveer]

i noticed you are just using the 2-wire actuator here.

my car has since long been equiped with 5-wire actuators. the 3 additional wires are used to sense 'open' and 'close' transitions, so that the key or inside switch can be used for central locking (since the original lock module is no longer functioning). This bypasses the lock state contacts in the doors, using the wires originally attached to the switch sensor. The 5 wires of the actuator are: GND, lock detect, unlock detect, lock positive and lock negative.

The lock doors lights are not connected to this system as far as i know.

[Farrar]

my car has since long been equiped with 5-wire actuators. the 3 additional wires are used to sense 'open' and 'close' transitions, so that the key or inside switch can be used for central locking (since the original lock module is no longer functioning). This bypasses the lock state contacts in the doors, using the wires originally attached to the switch sensor. The 5 wires of the actuator are: GND, lock detect, unlock detect, lock positive and lock negative.

I sure wish I knew that that meant :) but I haven't studied the door lock system in detail. I always assumed that we had an old-fashioned "switched polarity" system, where the "lock/unlock" button in one direction would send a positive pulse to the solenoid, and the button in the other direction would send a negative pulse. Is that the case? I have no electrical training and it is hard for me to discern the function just by looking at the diagram. Is the function of the system detailed in the Workshop Manual? Sorry to ask so many questions off topic. :)

[robvanderveer]

I sure wish I knew that that meant :) but I haven't studied the door lock system in detail. I always assumed that we had an old-fashioned "switched polarity" system, where the "lock/unlock" button in one direction would send a positive pulse to the solenoid, and the button in the other direction would send a negative pulse. Is that the case? I have no electrical training and it is hard for me to discern the function just by looking at the diagram. Is the function of the system detailed in the Workshop Manual? Sorry to ask so many questions off topic. :)

You are not wrong here. The solenoids were indeed 'switched polarity' as you call it (no idea what the proper name is though). Two wires, either RK/RS (+12V/Gnd) pulse for lock, or RK/RS reversed (GND/+12V) pulse for unlock. The lock module takes care of it.

However, for the lock module to see if the door is locked or unlocked, the module checks the state of the locks by checking the switch sensor. This sensor is connected through 3 wires: GND, NS (Brown/Slate) and NK (Brown/Pink). If GND connects to NS, the door is locked, if GND connects to NK the door is unlocked (or vice versa).

http://i.imgur.com/3pnoC19.png

Now, with my $10 central locking module, the basic +/- logic is maintained (therefore it works for ALEXANDROS), but the actuators also senses which way the lock is being pulled (either by the exterior lock, or the interior switch). The fact that it senses a DIRECTION and not a STATE is why the original lock module is not compatible. Another reason for it being incompatible is the power required for the actuator to move compared to the solenoid (i'm not sure about this though). Anyway, my new $10 lock module has a remote which is of course very cool. Installation will be pretty easy since the PO already exchanged the solenoids for actuators. My new $10 lock module has 2 bonuses. 1) it can be configured to close the windows automatically on lock, and 2) it blinks the direction indicators when locked/unlocked.

I tried to explain this as comprehensible as possible. If it is still unclear, let me know.

[Farrar]

I tried to explain this as comprehensible as possible.

And you did brilliantly! Thanks, Rob! :D

[Flash66]

Cool!

[theMonch]

Thanks for info. Could you post where you got the actuators what model part numbers perhaps? Maybe the pipe mount info as well? Thanks.

Sent from my C811 4G using Tapatalk

[gamerguy51]

You are not wrong here. The solenoids were indeed 'switched polarity' as you call it (no idea what the proper name is though). Two wires, either RK/RS (+12V/Gnd) pulse for lock, or RK/RS reversed (GND/+12V) pulse for unlock. The lock module takes care of it.

However, for the lock module to see if the door is locked or unlocked, the module checks the state of the locks by checking the switch sensor. This sensor is connected through 3 wires: GND, NS (Brown/Slate) and NK (Brown/Pink). If GND connects to NS, the door is locked, if GND connects to NK the door is unlocked (or vice versa).

http://i.imgur.com/3pnoC19.png

Now, with my $10 central locking module, the basic +/- logic is maintained (therefore it works for ALEXANDROS), but the actuators also senses which way the lock is being pulled (either by the exterior lock, or the interior switch). The fact that it senses a DIRECTION and not a STATE is why the original lock module is not compatible. Another reason for it being incompatible is the power required for the actuator to move compared to the solenoid (i'm not sure about this though). Anyway, my new $10 lock module has a remote which is of course very cool. Installation will be pretty easy since the PO already exchanged the solenoids for actuators. My new $10 lock module has 2 bonuses. 1) it can be configured to close the windows automatically on lock, and 2) it blinks the direction indicators when locked/unlocked.

I tried to explain this as comprehensible as possible. If it is still unclear, let me know.

You say "my $10 central locking module" like you are selling it...but I think you mean the wiring and parts needed for your mod. Do you have a link for instructions and parts required? Thanks!

[robvanderveer]

You say "my $10 central locking module" like you are selling it...but I think you mean the wiring and parts needed for your mod. Do you have a link for instructions and parts required? Thanks!

Doh, no! i can imagine the confusion, but it is just a cheap ebay remote, :) i wrote so in another topic.

this the one i bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/151257806099?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

[Flash66]

Do you have a link for the actuators?

[robvanderveer]

i think Alexandros might have one, but his are 2-wire actuators. Mine are over 15 years old. i suggest you check ebay, they have plenty.

[gamerguy51]

Doh, no! i can imagine the confusion, but it is just a cheap ebay remote, :) i wrote so in another topic.

this the one i bought: http://www.ebay.com/itm/151257806099?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
that's what I thought thanks! let us know how it works out!

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[ALEXAKOS]

Sorry guys,
I was in Germany his whole week. Just got back
my actuators are form this China man
http://www.ebay.com/itm/390567684107


And with these you can either use Rob's remote system instead of the old and problematic Delorean module
or the simple module I bought:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/400536333359

and will combine it with the Viper 211 Car Keyless Entry, to get it working with the actuators used for the door opening. So its a kind of wings-a-loft system

[robvanderveer]

For those wanting to know how to connect my cheap Chinese remote (not the one from Alexakos), head over to my post at DeLoreanEurotec.co.uk (http://www.deloreaneurotec.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=436&p=56209#p56209) for a detailed explanation.

http://i.imgur.com/xsVta8Wl.jpg (http://imgur.com/xsVta8W)

[ALEXAKOS]

For those wanting to know how to connect my cheap Chinese remote (not the one from Alexakos), head over to my post at DeLoreanEurotec.co.uk (http://www.deloreaneurotec.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=41&t=436&p=56209#p56209) for a detailed explanation.




"YOU COMPLETE ME" :lockdance:
http://stream1.gifsoup.com/view2/4695690/you-complete-me-o.gif

[robvanderveer]

lol!

(also, i got a message from the ebay seller with the instruction manual)

[DCUK Martin]

Just a little correction: the original solenoids are not "switched polarity" but are two separate coils either of which is powered in isolation, hence two feeds with a common ground. The original system is elegant in design but atrocious in its execution and cheap and easy to make robust if you know what you're doing. Original solenoids are almost always burnt out but if you're lucky and you fix the module before it sticks, they're good for the life of the car. Alternatively they can be re-wound.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

[robvanderveer]

Just a little correction: the original solenoids are not "switched polarity" but are two separate coils either of which is powered in isolation, hence two feeds with a common ground. The original system is elegant in design but atrocious in its execution and cheap and easy to make robust if you know what you're doing. Original solenoids are almost always burnt out but if you're lucky and you fix the module before it sticks, they're good for the life of the car. Alternatively they can be re-wound.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk

yes, you are absolutely correct. The DeLorean diagram shows the two wire and a GND for each solenoid. This method is called "switched positive", and most modern replacement central locking modules support that.

[Farrar]

Just a little correction: the original solenoids are not "switched polarity" but are two separate coils either of which is powered in isolation, hence two feeds with a common ground. The original system is elegant in design but atrocious in its execution and cheap and easy to make robust if you know what you're doing. Original solenoids are almost always burnt out but if you're lucky and you fix the module before it sticks, they're good for the life of the car. Alternatively they can be re-wound.

Thanks, Martin. (As an aside, I removed the original door lock module since my solenoids are still working very strongly and I wanted to keep them that way. My plan was to install a lock module like Rob has done, with remote keyless entry but without openers.)

If I understand this correctly, both motor legs of the locks are normally open, and the switch connects alternately to both +12 and ground/earth when engaged? Is this why the solenoids have two leads instead of just one? So for example when I press the switch on "lock," it connects +12v to wire A and ground/earth to wire B, and when I press the switch on "unlock," it connects ground/earth to wire A and +12v to wire B?

[robvanderveer]

no,

the original soldenoids are wired like this: 2 control wires A and B, and a ground.
both control wires are open.
put 12v on A (B unconnected), the door locks
put 12v on the B (A unconnected), doors unlock.

this is called positive pulse.

The module i have works as you describe, just two wires, 12/- locks, -/12 unlocks. this is positive/negative pulse. I must add that i no longer have central locking when using the door locks manually.

[ALEXAKOS]

I must add that i no longer have central locking when using the door locks manually.
Correct! Either when using a key (why would you anyway when you have a remote) or the interior lock handle.

That is why I will be using one of the center console switches for central locking unlocking, like the modern cars have.

[robvanderveer]

Correct! Either when using a key (why would you anyway when you have a remote) or the interior lock handle.

That is why I will be using one of the center console switches for central locking unlocking, like the modern cars have.
I have not found a way (yet) with my module to trigger a lock or unlock other that using the remote, like you describe. The only way is using the remote (that will open/close both door), or mechanically (using the key in the door, or the rocker switch on the door itself). It will do for now, but I will keep my eyes open for a module that does have that option.

The reason : my keyless entry is a remote-that-can-be-used-as-a-locking-system, but it is not a central locking system. It is so cheap because it should be installed as an add-in to your existing central locking system. This is why it is so cheap, and also the reason why there are no actuators with the kit. And most importantly: the diagram says the 6 wires should connect to your central locking.

[DCUK Martin]

Lots of info here:

http://dmcnews.com/Techsection/doorlocks.htm

As to how to rewind them - this is tricky - took me a while to master!

[Farrar]

Thanks for the link, Martin. Hm, interesting some of the info is from you as well - looks like you've been at this for a while yet ;)

Smart idea to have the module drive only relays. Simple but effective mod, albeit very space-consuming...

Not planning to rewind mine as long as they still work.

OK, I think I've hijacked this thread enough. Sorry :blush:

[Tillsy]

That is why I will be using one of the center console switches for central locking unlocking, like the modern cars have.

I did likewise - wouldn't be without it!

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=28458&d=1403317984

[ALEXAKOS]

I did likewise - wouldn't be without ]

You have mastered it Tillsy;)

[robvanderveer]

i had a spare lock actuator so i mounted it as a trunk release. Photo is work in progress.28632

[Chris 16409]

i had a spare lock actuator so i mounted it as a trunk release. Photo is work in progress.28632

Toby sells this as kit. Maybe someone had a digital copy of his instructions to see how it's all set up.

[robvanderveer]

who needs a kit when you can DIY for less than $20. I will put up a pic plus schematics when it's done.

[ALEXAKOS]

who needs a kit when you can DIY for less than $20. I will put up a pic plus schematics when it's done.

Hell yeah baby!!! Tackle that euro style;)

[djdogbone]

Still waiting on those schematics....I have my kit ready to install

[robvanderveer]

Still waiting on those schematics....I have my kit ready to install

Here ya go. No guarantees though. I'll be making a few pics of the installation in the back later on. But it'll take some time before I can do that.

http://i.imgur.com/fJvbd17l.png (http://imgur.com/fJvbd17)

Notes:
- "To windows" is not connected"
- the blue "to thermistor" goes to one side of the thermistor, while
- the brown "12v" goes to the other side and inline fuse is NOT pictured in this diagram.
- the purple wire splits in 2 (with a diode on each wire), but I actually only use one of them and cut the other one off.
- note that the brown "12v continuous" on the 9 pin connector is NOT protected by the thermistor. So only the remote system RED should be on there (with the fuse). The others go through the thermistor (which roughly speaking is a fuse).

[zimvsdib]

It was actually as easy as 1.2.3.
I simply connected the wiring onto the solenoid's wiring and will then replace the door lock module with a simple actuator module from ebay.


Thanks for all the info on your setup.!
I have a question that i hope can be answered on this thread. I'm very good with my engine but electronic systems are new stuff to me.
I own a car with a keyless remote system with door poppers, i guess thats a wings-a-loft- setup.
Original heavy solenoids still in there, and original door lock module.

The doors started to click and lock and unlock themselves plus i suspect drain the battery. I unplugged the system and have been manual.
From what i read on this thread it seems really inexpensive with your setup to get nice actuators to replace the solenoids. What about the module?

Could i do this with my system and avoid the 250 dollar dmc digital door module?
A list of what i need would be very helpful.

should i toss out my setup and get this stuff or can i use some of what i have?

1. Universal Car Remote Control Central Door Lock Locking Keyless Entry System
2. DC 12V Auto Car 8 Wires Black Plastic Shell Central Door Lock Actuator (would this replace the door lock module? save 250$ from buying the dmc one?)

As you can see from this photo brow. This is my door i already have the actuators to pop the door open.

Thanks for the help.


http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/zimvsdib/delorea%20pics/IMG_1022.jpg (http://s275.photobucket.com/user/zimvsdib/media/delorea%20pics/IMG_1022.jpg.html)

[djdogbone]

Sweet! I was going to give this a Try this weekend but strepthroat had other plans for me....