If I set it up facing down, the exhaust will burn the wiring when the DMCH headers are on, there is so much water flow when the engine is running the chance of a air pocket to stay on that sensor is very low.
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A few more small repairs: rebuilt the rear brake calipers, the last clean up and painting with POR15 did not last. Stripped down, blasted, and powdercoated, rebuilt the parking brake calipers too but I doubt they will ever work as well as Id want them to.
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All the original tail light nutserts were rusted/ cross threaded over the years, time to drill the, out and replace them with M5 rivnuts and some smarter looking stainless allen head bolts.
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I like how you think ... and what you can accomplish. If only Vulcan mind-melds worked!
BTW ... no smog checks in MN... just saying ... we'd be happy to have you here:)
Thanks man! I doubt I could handle the cold out there, I'm from Arizona.
That new idle pipe routing looks awesome! Did you try the new computer yet? How is the overall idle treating you?
Also, wow - new door panels? I’m pumped you’re getting to some of the interior cosmetics!
The idle was working great for about a week, now its inconsistent again. Once hot it wont go below 1100, sometimes higher. If connect power to the ISC to fully close the valve the engine always stalls, I'm thinking the idle controller just wont restrict the air enough to give a proper idle. I've yet to try the new idle ECU. Engine is still out of the car.
My decel springs are removed and soldered shut.
I'm really hoping your idle controller does the trick .
Are you sure it is the idle control holding the RPM up and not the spool?
I have trouble getting my spool to drop to the neutral position, to the point where idle takes over. It is as if there is a dead spot as the spool return to its neutral position.
I suspect if I readjust the control arms so that the returned position in not at the 6 o'clock position but closer to the 7 o'clock position it would work better.