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This is going to take a while. :)
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What are you going to cast them out of? Silicon?
Cheers
Steve
I have some Rubber ReoFlex 60 and black tint from Smooth-On that I will use for casting. I've made two silicon molds so I can cast two at a time. The cure time says 16 hours for the ReoFlex 60.Quote:
Originally Posted by mluder
Next up is an idea I had for mounting the flux band brackets. I'm suspending hard drive magnets just inside the mold so they will be slightly under the bottom of the bracket.
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Now the Reoflex goes in and wait 16 hours!
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I'm testing on the front fender since it's easy to get magnets behind the stainless.
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Now the bracket will stick to the car!
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I'm not sure if this will be strong enough to hold while driving. I guess once they are all on the car I'll have to see how much force it takes to pull them all off. I have a feeling I will need to fasten them to the car somewhere for safety....time will tell.
Now on to make a crap load of these....
Next up, flux boxes!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smcguiga
This is great... You're making real all the things I've been thinking and writing down. It's always handy to have someone else prove the concepts.
Is the wood flux box the final piece or are you casting those too?
Cheers
Steve
I'll be casting the flux boxes once the wood models are perfect.Quote:
Originally Posted by mluder
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Lookin good so far Steve!
Looks great so far! I'm excited to see your progress on the magnets. Great idea!
Nice work so far, and I like the idea of the magnets too- once you have those all in place under the skins they might hold fine as the load is being spread out.
As far as the flux boxes, I was considering modeling them in Fusion 360, hollowed out, and then 3D printing in a couple sections so they're lighter than resin boxes - same goes for the Wormhole Emitter I modeled. Can't wait to see your progress. If I can get close enough to another time machine replica, I might do some 123D catch to get some good 3D scans and then I can print out most of the hard to find parts, like the pucks, etc.
I think I am finally ready to make some molds. The oil separator model (thanks Steven Maguire for the measurements and pics) has removable dowel pieces for the pipes so I will just mold the base. Question now is what material should I use for casting. I'm thinking it would be good to tint the material the blue/gray for the boxes and of course black for the oil separator.
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I didn't forget about the little angle piece on the oil separator. :)
I don't know if it's perfect yet but looks pretty good I think.
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I would suggest roto-casting for the flux boxes and oil separators. You don't wan them to be solid - way too much weight.
Also, The angle pieces on the oil separators are not solid. They are bent metal. as such I wouldn't try to cast them as part of the piece. I'll try to send you pics tonight.
Cheers
Steve
I wonder how the Smooth-On Feather Lite product would work. https://www.smooth-on.com/products/feather-lite/Quote:
Originally Posted by mluder
If you do a rotocast I understand smoothon's 65d or Onyx Black are a good choice.Quote:
Originally Posted by smcguiga
Check out this... http://www.tested.com/art/makers/575...t-prop-helmet/
Steve
I remember my Mom and her friends baking cookies every Christmas. One woman would just bake prune cookies....while another would do just macaroons... They would get together before Christmas and swap cookies.......so that they would all have a variety of cookie trays for Christmas. We need to get this same concept going for BTTF enthusiasts that don't have 50 grand to spend on a conversion. If we split up the work, and "mass produce " parts, it will make things easier for everyone. For example, the engine covers would be easy for me to make... I could even laser-cut them. Same for vents (If I had dimensions). Would anyone be interested in doing this as a joint project?
For the moment, I am looking to do exterior only....non-destructive.
I just got the light into the roentgens meter. It looks like the needles have to be cut so they don't slam into the light. Looking at the movie it looks like that's what they had to do. I still have to make the "EMPTY" label on the light.
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Other than ordering a working TCD from Moretto, anyone have any info for putting this together? I know the parts from other forums but the actual "working" is looking pretty involved. I'm guessing programming and arduino is the best option. Anyone have some code or schematics to share??
As you can see here, I've got a good start on most of the internal parts.
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What did you use for your empty light, and is your meter the standard (not very deep front) Simpson 2246 voltmeter that you put the new label in? I got the red LED pushbutton but it's way to tall and even after taking the black sides down to the base so the red lens is still covered, the cover doesn't go on all the way.Quote:
Originally Posted by smcguiga
I was able to snag a real roentgens meter from eBay so I had plenty of room for the light.Quote:
Originally Posted by Timebender
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Oh that makes sense. Nice find too!
This is looking great.Quote:
Originally Posted by smcguiga
As far as time circuits goes, Gary Dunster in the UK has a pretty awesome center console setup he makes and sells. Check him out on Facebook.
Joe Walser has said the dash readout is coming in mass production (as an alarm clock) and it's supposed to be very accurate and functional. No idea when we'll actually see it or how accurate it will be. Everyone remembers Bob Gale and the Hoverboard incident.
Cheers
Steve
Yeah, I remember them talking about that a while back.....from Temporal FX. I guess I will hold off for a while on ordering or trying to make something myself. I wonder if it'll just be the time display in a simple enclosure since its suppose to be an alarm clock, or if it'll be the full size enclosure with the keypad just like what would go in the car. Hopefully we will hear about this soon.Quote:
Originally Posted by mluder
I haven't been in touch with EFX lately but they are the company that will be bringing the TCD to production along with Temporal FX. The displays and enclosures are intended to be fully accurate but function as an alarm clock and use a TRW style keypad as input for setting date and time. From a component standpoint it would be a good jumping off point to build something that you could put in a DeLorean. The guts could be transferred over to actual LMB boxes and aluminum welded housing and the electronics could be modified. That, or there was some early discussion about a "car mode" that would function more like the movie prop.Quote:
Originally Posted by smcguiga
If you're interested Joe may have more recent details or you could contact EFX directly on their website. https://efxcollectibles.com/
Gary,Quote:
Originally Posted by smcguiga
I am starting my time machine build and want to build my Torin blower from scratch. would you be willing to share any of the dimensions of it? I appreciate your time in advance! I can’t find any info anywhere, I’ve been just guessing the dimensions compared to the size of the flux box.