Thin socket worked. All torqued to 30 ftlbs. Left side was already at 30 ftlbs. Thanks all!
John
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Thin socket worked. All torqued to 30 ftlbs. Left side was already at 30 ftlbs. Thanks all!
John
Before I switched to socket head cap screws, I always used a 3/8" drive 10mm socket to take the bolts out and in. A 1/2" drive socket is usually a little too thick.
The bolts are 17mm
If you do use a "crow's foot" to tighten ANY bolt you must calculate the change in lever arm and change the torque setting accordingly. Torque settings are for sockets centered over the attachment point of the torque wrench. The other problem will be if you are not careful the crows foot will just slide right off the head.
When the cars were much newer it was somewhat common to encounter an axle that had loose bolts. I'm guessing the factory spec of 30lb's was on the light side so erhaps that's the explanation. Based on my experience I would guess that a spec of about 37lb's would have you in the correct ballpark. That is also the size and factory spec of some of the transmission case bolts. Although I tighten these particular bolts by feel rather than spec the steel flanges are rather forgiving of a little extra torque. I don't ever recall finding a stripped axle thread.
My bolts were very tight even after I got them started loose. Had to use a wrench to get each bolt all the way out. So I chased the threads with a tap and then the bolts could be started finger tight.
Not sure if all the cars are the same but that would result in less real torque on the bolts than your torque wrench is set for.