Quote:
Originally Posted by
FABombjoy
-Warmup looks lean and low RPM.
That seems consistent with how quickly it stalled out after I hooked up the MAP sensor properly. I should also note that the strong fuel smell from the exhaust is pretty much gone now.
Quote:
The combo of 40F CLT, 700-ish RPM, and AFR swinging around 14:1 will lug like mad on my engine and shake like an off-balance washer.
That's fits with what I was seeing, too.
Quote:
I run closed-loop idle and I know my ECU would probably abuse ignition advance to maintain that target. I'm sure the 3.0 would be smoother but even modern cars have higher warm-up RPM targets. I target 1200 RPM at that CLT. AFR is bouncing all over and will probably change once MAP is reconnected.
Actually, once I connected the MAP I saw the AFR go pretty crazy still, up over 22 at one point before it stalled out. I'm guessing other factors are at player here.
About the higher warm-up targets, that explains my neighbor's late-model Camero, which seems to rev a bit higher than I expected on a cold start for a couple of minutes before settling down. I had wondered about that.
Quote:
-What kind of idle valve? msq shows 4/6 wire stepper. If that's the DIY valve setup I would suggest changing minimum steps to move to 2 or 3, and "always on", at least for now.
4 wire Jeep IAC. I'll make the change for the next time I go to the garage (which unfortunately won't be for at least 2 weeks, as I'll be busy next weekend).
Quote:
Did you visually verify stepper movement using the test mode? From experience I sent a lot of pintiles flying across the room until I got the wiring straight :) If it's the stock valve then ignore this.
I did not; I wasn't aware of a test mode. This has taken four years, and the last 1.5 years was waiting for an exhaust before finally just building one myself, and most of the electrical work was done that. Which mostly means my memory is fuzzy about exactly what I did. I do remember spending a lot of time making sure I got the pins right on the IAC, which I documented (briefly), and used a diagram as a reference for what to wire up to what. I never visually checked it, as I didn't know I could.
I'll have to remember to bring a torx driver with me next time I go, as for some reason it uses that instead of hex bolts or Philips screws.
Quote:
-REQ_FUEL doesn't seem to correspond with what was previously stated in this thread regarding your injector size (stated 19lbs, 22lbs in the equation)
Ah, sorry, it seems I pulled that information from the part of my site from when I was looking at doing a 2.8 EFI conversion, before I found a hole in my engine block and switched to a 3.0L swap. I used 22lbs because that's what I found when I googled for the Ford FOTE-9F593-D9B injectors that I'm actually using. 22lbs is (I believe) correct.
On an unrelated note, I notice that my oil gauge in the DMC is pegged to straight up, beyond the end of the marks. I'll have to look into that at some point. I'm using the one-wire sender that came with the 3.0L engine.
Quote:
The fact that it runs at all is a huge thing, tho! I'm sure with some fine-tuning it'll be right in no time.
I was pretty surprised it ran at all. :) Although now I have to figure out why it doesn't again, but your suggestions should help. Thanks!
-- Joe