Thank You-
I did not realize that the assemblies had to be purchased in two pieces (4 pieces in total), That is where I was going wrong,
Much appreciated.
-Charlie
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I can check the model for more info on the triangular spaced holes for the CO2 nozzle mounting. I shared these images a while ago with another member via email that includes the hole spacing on the RH side.
The locations on the hole positions are pretty much the highest level of detail you can get though on the vents. For it to really even matter you'd first have to have the shape of each plate correct, and then the individual plates located correctly in space relative to one another. Having an accurate engine cover is also important so you can accurately locate the whole vent assembles relative to the rest of the car.
Otherwise you'll just have a really accurate hole pattern on inaccurate parts.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...2&d=1489077236
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...1&d=1489076862
In regards to the nuclear reactor hatch, yes there are three locking pins on the cap that line up with three corresponding notches in the core. Spacing is an even 120 degrees
Wow! You never cease to impress Mark! Thank you very much, I appreciate that.
That's pretty much exactly what I was looking for. If you do have the time or the inclination to provide the same for the LH side, that would be epic. Again, no worries if it's not possible though, I am grateful for what you have provided already.
I completely understand about the accuate vent panels and engine cover, I'm hoping to gradually improve the accuracy as I go along and learn new info.
Thanks also for the confirmation of the locking pins.
Have a great day!
It shouldn't be a problem to measure the holes on the other vent. It might take a day or two since all those files are on a different computer.
Incredibly helpful! Thank you Mark.
Would it happen to be on the computer (laptop) that we saw in the OUTATIME documentary? :D
Just another quick question (sorry to be so inquisitive!), is the rear edge of the engine cover curved to match the body work of the car, or is it straight and sits underneath the rear body panel?
Thanks!
I've finally been able to upgrade to a more decent desktop machine at home to run Catia V5 which is the program all of the parts are designed in. I had a laptop during the restoration so I could work on the go during my trips out to California. Most 3D modeling programs are pretty demanding so it's nice to finally have a graphics card that is designed with modeling programs in mind.
The rear of the engine cover is slightly curved to match the curvature of the fascia. The bottom plates for the bolt on lower vent sections are also angled for the same reason. This also requires three vertical plates of the lower vent section to be slightly different.
I was describing in another post how that lower section was modified by the tram garage after production so the engine cover could be raised and lowered without removing the lower half of the vents. For the restoration undoing that modification meant having to measure what we left of the original vent bottoms and redesigning new parts back to the original state. All things considered it was one of the more challenging designs to perfect since the vents are such an important part of the time machine. It took a few weeks of collaborating back and forth with Joe and some extended measuring sessions with the real parts in hand.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...1&d=1489163336
I know only too well of the hardware demands of 3D software! Especially as the newer generation renderers are only GPU and sometimes only an NVIDIA GPU?! I noticed you taking real measurements of the parts on a portable laptop which looked like a pretty cool and convenient setup.
Every time I read your posts on here, I learn something new and fascinating! I had no idea that the bottom most plates of the rear vents were angled like that to follow the profile of the rear lights?! It makes sense of course when you think about it. Also makes sense that the vertical plates would each have to be slightly different to allow for the bottom plate(s).
Great that you restoration guys went to so much trouble to make them authentic to 1985. Legendary work!
Do you know what size the round gauges are? I got one off eBay - a Phaostron that's 2.5 inches across the bezel, but obviously too small as the holes in the faceplate are 7cm that I got from Bruce, and that's the size in the sketch on here as well.
There's one more on eBay, but it's only 2 inches in diameter.
Greg