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Originally Posted by
dn010
You've gone through the wiring to ensure the coils are wired up the same as the wiring diagram. You've made sure the correct coil is going to correct plug as shown on the wiring diagram. You checked to see that the CPS is in position, did you check the air gap? Seems like you've got a good start in narrowing down the problem.
I haven't directly measured the air gap; I was figuring that since it had a good RPM signal that it was fine, but as my higher-level attempts fail I start doing more and more tests like that, so I'll check it out in September (I'm out of town this weekend, so I have to wait a bit longer to do any more checks).
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Get rid of the noise on your sensors, maybe you still have a ground issue.
I'll have to do another trace of the wires, I guess. I'm having trouble figuring out where the grounding issue could be. Apparently routing away from the coils wasn't the solution.
I'm starting to wonder if there's a problem with the passenger side injector wiring. In the setup I got from Josh, the passenger side uses the two blue wires run from MS (as is normal) and one large orange one from the 5A fuse. All three of the of the orange wires from the injectors are then soldered to the orange one from the fuse, and all three blue wires to the two blue ones from MS.
When I lengthened these wires to get enough slack to reroute the harness, I cut the blue and orange wires, and soldered in two new blue wires and two new orange wires (the two orange wires to account for the smaller gauge wire I was using relative to the larger original wire).
In theory, if one of those wires isn't connected sufficiently, there wouldn't be enough currently to reliably open the injectors. While test mode seems to click them open and closed OK, it may be that in actual operation they can't operate smoothly or reliably enough.
This is a wild guess, and would only account for the injectors on the passenger side of the engine, but it's the only thing I actually changed before this whole problem started.
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Instead of unplugging the SAW connection, you can set base timing in TunerStudio to whatever you want, try 20, try 10.
Ah, cool. I knew that some of the timing controls don't apply to EDIS, but I hadn't looked at the base timing.
This harness is one of the things I got from Josh (sans DB37; I had to get one and solder it up, and I went through the whole harness at the time to make sure I understood it, and to crate my diagram). He had installed a removable plug of some sort (almost looks like a fuse, but without actually being a fuse) that I can just pop out to disable SAW. I have no idea where that plug is from, but it's pretty handy. I got the impression that EDIS ignored any SAW input under 400 RPM anyway, but I may be misremembering.
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In my opinion I'd use a different connector than the stock bulkhead ones. Those connectors are junk and I've had nothing but problems with them throughout the years running stock. My tail lights would go out, my frequency valve would stop working, and I'd run rough because some pins were just not connecting. It was a very, very good day when I cut down all those connectors and put in a single weather pack.
I'm also not a fan of the original connectors. I used them in part because Josh's harness had them, but also because I had some silly idea of trying to remain somewhat original, before I realized just how much of the electrical system changes for EFI. I've seriously considered replacing them with GM weatherpack ones myself -- I just haven't wanted to pull everything back out to do it. I also want a decent way to mount them and seal up the holes for the old connectors in the bulkhead. That, and my connector kit maxes at four or six pins. What did you do for yours?
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Few more thoughts - did you ground your shielded wire, the actual shielding to the MS?
The crank sensor wire shielding is grounded only to EDIS pin 7. It is not connected to the engine ground, MS, or to the crank connector -- It is only connected to the EDIS. This is how I understood it from the docs (I made a note about it in my wiring diagram so I wouldn't forget).
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At this point you might try picking up a cheap used EDIS coil pack and wire it in, see if that makes any difference.
Worth a go, I guess. The thing is, I know the coils work -- I went so far as to pull each plug, one at a time, and saw the nice blue-white spark provided by its specific coil while cranking.
Somewhat relatedly, For some reason my coils don't really want to sit firmly in the socket, and tend to pop out a bit, which is a bit annoying. I cut a some aluminum stack to make a bracket to hold them down more securely, although all I probably really need to do is cut down the conductor springs so the they simply make contact with the tops of the plugs and don't try to force the boots out of the engine. I'm honestly surprised that these boots stayed in on the original Monaco/Premiere setup.
A lot of this 3.0L/EFI conversion was me reading a bunch of docs, getting confused, taking parts that seemed to work for other people and putting them together, and then re-reading the docs again, which now actually made sense with context and my new-found experience. A simple example is the springs springs in the spark plug boots -- I just thought they needed to be that long because that's how they came, but now that I properly understand their purpose it's clear that they only need to be long enough for a solid electrical connection.
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I don't have my laptop at the moment so I cannot look at your tune, will look after work.
No problem -- thanks! I forgot to mention that I also tried Josh's known good tune, on which my car had previously run. Still didn't work.
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Also - if you notice a difference with COP 1 & 5 pulled, 1 & 5 are both on the same wire. Check that wire, make sure it has a good connection. If you wired it according to the wiring diagram you posted in your other thread, it will be the gray/yellow wire going to the blue bulkhead connector. Again, I hate these connectors, I've tried in the past to bend the side of female connectors of these in where the split is in the metal a little, thus making a better connection and it has worked somewhat.
Good point -- I'll do a more thorough test on #1 and #5 next time I'm at the garage.
Thanks!
-- Joe