Body gaps and fitment

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01-18-2018, 06:11 AM
Bullitt

Body gaps and fitment

Hi!

Was there any change in the production of the fiberglass body on later cars to correct fitment issues?
I have an early car #1598 which I have had a frame off restoration on.
My front fenders were shimmed alot, but i reduced the amount of shims, changed gasket on hood to a thinner one, and adjusted the hood closer to the trunk.
I did all this to try to get the fenders to align better with the doors.
The right door I had to shim the front door striker pin, and grind the edge of the rear one, as the rear one was pushing the door forward.
Keep in mind I have also changed the roof box, but I dont see why that would matter as the striker pin pushed it forward.
I cant remember how the fitment was on the doors before restoration, but i remember the hood was riding high and the right door was hard to close, as it was now until i modified the striker pins. (I have adjusted the rods for the latches)
The rear fascia I had to adjust all the way up on the right side, cause it seems like the fascia was lower on the right side compared to the roofline and rear window.
Feels like It needs a little bit more adjustment too.... But that would also make a bigger gap on the exhaust tip on the right side than on the left side. (it is already bigger)
Anybody have these issues?
I have not seen any damage on frame and body, but when measuring the frame it seems like he rear right corner could have been a little bit higher up, which would help on the looks, but again also make the exhaust gap on the right side even worse.

I can see why some people say they loose interest in the car after working on it, cause it is certainly making me mad when it looks like it was thrown together after trying to restore the car! :)

What are other peoples experience with this? (mainly the the fascia leaning on one side)
01-18-2018, 06:49 AM
Lwanmtr

Yaay for hand built cars...lol.

Cant say on doors...I need to do my driver side alignment still. I spent a few hours getting all my gaps decent...The rear fascia on mine looks like it was from a model kit and i dont think it will ever be perfect. Didnt have a leaning issue, but then mine was so warped the back end was smiling, which required many days in the hot sun of bracing and tensioning to straighten.
01-19-2018, 11:00 AM
dn010

I can tell you I had to remove shims from my front fenders so my hood would close properly with even gaps from side to side. The fascias had a ton of work done, my guess is they shrink or distort after this age and in my case constant exposure to the sun rays. I had to adjust both doors via the hinge and pins. Again, my guess is age and things probably settling after all the miles put on. My vin is 5003 and I still have some door alignment problems.
01-19-2018, 11:25 AM
mrpeterman

I have VIN 1596 and the fitment isn't too bad. I recently replaced the inner door seal so I am in the process of adjusting striker pins. I'm expecting it to look good, maybe not perfect as some examples out there. I'd be happy to take come photos if you want to compare since its possible our cars were built the same day side by side :)
01-19-2018, 11:47 AM
Bullitt

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrpeterman

I have VIN 1596 and the fitment isn't too bad. I recently replaced the inner door seal so I am in the process of adjusting striker pins. I'm expecting it to look good, maybe not perfect as some examples out there. I'd be happy to take come photos if you want to compare since its possible our cars were built the same day side by side :)

Awesome! If you could take a picture from the rear of the car when sitting down on your knee, and one of the door gaps on the right side. And if I could bother you some more, compare the height from left to right side on the lower support bracket for the rear fascia down to the ground. (Check that the rear jackpoints are the same height from left to right)
01-19-2018, 12:40 PM
David T

There were changes made during production to improve fitment. The other reason early cars didn't have good gaps is that things got better and better as production proceeded and the workers got more experienced. Same for the QAC centers. The most noticeable area are the doors.
01-19-2018, 12:47 PM
mrpeterman

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bullitt

Awesome! If you could take a picture from the rear of the car when sitting down on your knee, and one of the door gaps on the right side. And if I could bother you some more, compare the height from left to right side on the lower support bracket for the rear fascia down to the ground. (Check that the rear jackpoints are the same height from left to right)

Sure thing, I'll get those tonight and post them for you
01-19-2018, 06:08 PM
mrpeterman

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bullitt

Awesome! If you could take a picture from the rear of the car when sitting down on your knee, and one of the door gaps on the right side. And if I could bother you some more, compare the height from left to right side on the lower support bracket for the rear fascia down to the ground. (Check that the rear jackpoints are the same height from left to right)

Here is the rear view, side views, and gaps in the pass side door.
Rear view: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VEi...ew?usp=sharing

Rear pass door and gap: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rUk...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Yqz...ew?usp=sharing

Front pass door and gap:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1B5k...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1M0T...ew?usp=sharing

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bullitt

And if I could bother you some more, compare the height from left to right side on the lower support bracket for the rear fascia down to the ground. (Check that the rear jackpoints are the same height from left to right)

Not sure I follow what you mean rear fascia, maybe a photo of the location? The rear jack points (metal plates on the tub) are both identical at about 7''/18cm from the ground on stock front and rear springs.

Let me know if I can get anything else!
01-20-2018, 12:45 AM
Bullitt

Quote:

Originally Posted by mrpeterman

Here is the rear view, side views, and gaps in the pass side door.
Rear view: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VEi...ew?usp=sharing

Rear pass door and gap: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rUk...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Yqz...ew?usp=sharing

Front pass door and gap:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1B5k...ew?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1M0T...ew?usp=sharing

Not sure I follow what you mean rear fascia, maybe a photo of the location? The rear jack points (metal plates on the tub) are both identical at about 7''/18cm from the ground on stock front and rear springs.

Let me know if I can get anything else!

Cool thanks.
I see now that the photo of the rear could be at a higher angle so I can see the roof line as well, and the whole rear end to compare from side to side.

Now that I know your car is level from side to side on the jackpoints, I am curious if the rear of the frame is as well. Mine is not, could seem like it is a little bent. (Easy fix though. But it would probably make the exhaust gap on the right side worse) so if you could measure the far left and the far right lower fascia bolts between the two exhaust tips and down to the ground.

Thanks!