9 Attachment(s)
Compressor removal and teardown
I removed my compressor next and tore it down to assess the condition and if it is still good, replace the shaft seal, etc.
Compressor disconnected and ready to be removed. First was removing the 3/8" bolt holding the hose bracket, Then, there were 6 M10 nuts and washers (locking and flat) that hold the compressor to the bracket. I removed the 3 back bolts and slid the compressor forward (towards the rear of the car) as I couldn't remove the other 3 because the pulley was in the way:
Attachment 53305
I rented a clutch holding tool, but the hole in the center was too small to fit the 19mm socket. So, I just used my air ratchet just a bit to break it free. That worked no problem:
Attachment 53306
I borrowed the Deluxe A/C clutch hub puller and installer kit posted above from Auto Zone to remove the armature plate:
Attachment 53307
Armature plate removed. You remove this snap ring to remove the pulley hub. The snap ring has a beveled and a flat side. The beveled side goes up:
Attachment 53308
There were 2 shims on the shaft and a woodruff key that I removed:
Attachment 53309
I rented this OEM #27078 jaw puller to remove the pulley assembly:
Attachment 53310
I sprayed a little bit of WD-40 where the the inner race of the bearing meets the shaft hub. Then I positioned the puller and the pulley came off easy after a little bit of initial resistance:
Attachment 53311 Attachment 53312
Next, I removed the snap ring for the coil and the Phillips screw and bracket that holds the wire. Then the coil came off easily. Same thing as before: the snap ring has a beveled and a flat side. The beveled side goes up.
Attachment 53313
To be continued...
Refurbing a Very Early A/C System
The puzzler here is that it didn't build system pressure. Because it is closed loop, any blockage/restriction should cause the Highside to climb like crazy.
Broken reed valves would cause no pressure to build. But from your teardown inspection all the components appear to be good.
Fwiw, when you reassemble the clutch, be sure the air gap is within spec.
.016"-.031". Adjust or remove shims as needed to bring into spec. When I was redoing my system last year, I noticed the clutch was slipping intermittently. The Clutch Air gap was almost .060. Since I was replacing the compressor anyway with an SD7H15, it didn't matter to me. For comparison the New compressor's clutch was near the bottom of the spec.