Carb Conversion "Kits" ETA March-April 2016

I had a feeling that was the case with the new pump since carbs rely on pretty much a trickle fuel supply from a mechanical pump. At the end of the day, it isn't much for me to just pull the mixture control unit for now to replace what I need. I've just done the removal, and install process three times, and it's tedious. If I didn't have to do it again, it would be too soon.

The motor has just shy of 80K miles on it. I barely put 10K on it before it took the long nap, but the oil gaskets were pretty much shot when I bought it. That being the case, I'll eventually do a power train pull in order to completely overhaul the gaskets on the engine, and while doing that upgrade the cams, port the heads, etc. to get a little more naturally aspirated juice out of the PRV.

I'm just putting the feelers out there for what the options are, and I really do like the simplicity of Bill's setup in the engine bay, but at the same time I am still considering the EFI option. In hindsight, I wish I had a 5-speed.

Good luck with your LS swap. If I had a 5-speed, I was considering what it would take to drop a 2011-2015 Mustang 3.7 V6 in.

I've done an EFI conversion on my car. Very happy with the results, but it is a lot of work. If you're just looking to get the car running for now, the carb is the cheapest and fastest route to that goal.

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Originally Posted by Project Jiga-Watt

1. If I'm going to go through the effort of having to remove the intake and K-Jet top end components anyway to properly replace my old crusty heater hoses for a complete overhaul of the coolant piping network, would it be a good time to do this switch since everything on top will be removed anyway?

2. Is using the mechanical fuel pump necessary or can the conversion be done while still utilizing the electric pump in the tank with the tank return line hooked up to the carburetor? Does the electric pump produce too much fuel pressure?

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Welcome to DMCTalk :)
For what it's worth, I am the owner of a DeLorean which has been carbureted since 2008, but I am no expert. Nonetheless I will try to answer your questions:

1. Yes, I believe that this will be a good time to change those hoses. Although removing & replacing a carb/manifold assembly is easier and less time-consuming than removing a K-Jet/manifold assembly with all of the accouterments attached, you might as well do it before you put the new manifold on to get that work out of the way.

2. Mechanical pump is not absolutely necessary, but the stock fuel pump sends too much pressure. In my experience, rigging up a low-pressure electrical pump is irksome: the low-pressure pumps are not submersible so you have to mount the pump elsewhere, and they have a disappointingly short service life. I did have an electric, low-pressure pump on #2613 for a number of years, and simply kept a spare fuel pump in the car with me. Twice I have changed the fuel pump on the side of the road. Other times the pump would die while the car was parked. Failure rate was unpredictable. I considered getting an EFI fuel pump (~40 PSI) and using a regulator with a return line, but my car started having other problems which led to a total engine replacement. #2613's new engine has a mechanical fuel pump, which has proven more reliable than the low-pressure electric fuel pumps I used to buy at Auto Zone/O'Reilly/Advance &c.

[Side note: At first I ran a completely new fuel line, but this was unnecessary: you can simply use one of your K-jet lines with a bit of hose at either end. #2613 now has this setup.]

Good luck with your conversion!

I was actually planning on relocating the fuel filter into the engine compartment anyway. I was doing some reading and there are a number of options for bypass regulators that are designed to allow the use of an in tank EFI fuel pump for carbureted applications. I can plumb the return line directly into the existing one with no issue. I was going to make some AN6 stainless braid hoses for the fuel filter relocation anyway.

One of the other potential hiccups I just considered was the charcoal canister. While it may be different in other states, unfortunately Nevada still operates under a very archaic understanding of emissions equipment, and I must have all original factory emissions equipment installed and visibly in "working" condition, which would necessitate having the canister and vacuum lines all properly hooked up.

Also, do Bill's manifolds have vacuum ports for the brake booster and heater core valve, or are those re-routed through a T junction?

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Originally Posted by Project Jiga-Watt

One of the other potential hiccups I just considered was the charcoal canister. While it may be different in other states, unfortunately Nevada still operates under a very archaic understanding of emissions equipment, and I must have all original factory emissions equipment installed and visibly in "working" condition, which would necessitate having the canister and vacuum lines all properly hooked up.

Also, do Bill's manifolds have vacuum ports for the brake booster and heater core valve, or are those re-routed through a T junction?

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Depending on which carburetor you use, there will be a purge port for a charcoal canister on it that you can use. Just make sure that Bill knows you have to use a charcoal canister.

Yes, Bill's manifolds have the correct number of vacuum ports. His manifolds even include a port for the automatics' vacuum modulator, but on a manual he simply uses a plug instead of a barb in that location.

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Originally Posted by Farrar

Depending on which carburetor you use, there will be a purge port for a charcoal canister on it that you can use. Just make sure that Bill knows you have to use a charcoal canister.

Yes, Bill's manifolds have the correct number of vacuum ports. His manifolds even include a port for the automatics' vacuum modulator, but on a manual he simply uses a plug instead of a barb in that location.

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My car is also an auto and I just recently converted it to carburation using one of Bill's turnkey kits. He literally sends you everything you'll need to convert a stock setup. The auto, like Farrar mentioned, requires some extra components on the conversion. Aside from the extra vacuum line, it also has a second cable under the throttle cable for the shift points. In addition, you will repurpose your auto trans kickdown microswitch from the old throttle spool to the new linkage.

The conversion is not difficult at all. Tear down and removal of all the K-Jet components takes almost as long as the installation. Also like Farrar mentioned, I repurposed the old K-Jet return line as my new supply line from the tank to the mechanical fuel pump now in the engine bay. You mentioned your car was already on jack-stands. If that's true, this would also be a good time to remove the rear line on the accumulator and plug it, should you decide on a carb setup. Doing this will ensure you don't start sucking air should the accumulator bladder fail. The repurposed return line has a "T" up in the frame and plugging this line is the easiest way to mitigate that.

Also while the car is on jackstands you could take that opportunity to remove the old K-Jet fuel filter, as it is not used on the new carb setup. My kit from Bill came with a fuel filter screwed into the carb directly and connects back to the fuel pump via a custom made metal fuel line with a flare on the filter side and a compression fitting on the pump side. The filter is a $6 common part from any major auto parts store. I bought a couple of spares this weekend. I've tried to update my resto blog with some of this information so feel free to check that out. It's linked in my signature box below.

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Originally Posted by Project Jiga-Watt

I was actually planning on relocating the fuel filter into the engine compartment anyway.?

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Check these out. $39.89 w/ filter:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-12s/overview/

If the pump is small enough, you could mount it on the firewall nearer the fuel tank.

Attachment 53800

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Originally Posted by Project Jiga-Watt

One of the other potential hiccups I just considered was the charcoal canister.

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I had another thought about this.

Even if your chosen carburetor doesn't have a separate barb for a charcoal canister, it will have a barb for the spark advance hose. You could put a "T" fitting in the spark advance hose and install the resulting second hose to your charcoal canister's ''purge'' port.

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Originally Posted by OverlandMan

He literally sends you everything you'll need to convert a stock setup.

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Including a case of cheerwine.