How To: Front speaker replacement made easy

OK... maybe I should have said "easier".

One of the problems replacing the front speakers and mounting flush to the underside of the dash using the original studs is getting the nut onto the stud. The opening in the dash sub-deck is very small and there is not much room for your fingers to hold and rotate the nut. I suspect it was difficult when they built them in the factory and were working on a bench (maybe this is the real reason DMC went bankrupt). This is added to the fact that it is difficult to move around and get all the necessary body parts under the dash.

As I was trying to get the original nuts back on the studs I realized I needed a longer nut. One name for a longer nut is a "standoff." So I ordered some M4 x 50mm Brass Hex Standoffs. The 50mm length extends far enough below the dash that getting them threaded on is easy.

Also, you'll likely need washers to hold the speaker. To simplify adding a washer, superglue it to the head of the standoff. Use gel superglue and avoid getting on the threads.

Here are pictures of the standoffs:
Attachment 21787

Here is what it looks like installed:
Attachment 21788

There you go. So simply you can change your speakers daily:yesss:

So you're not using these as standoffs, just as really long nuts so you have something to hold onto with your fingers?

I have just recently done this on my car I just sold. checkout a company called unicorpinc.com the standoffs are called metric male-female. I called them about ordering some but they only do bulk. I just said I was a restoration shop and they sent me 5 for FREE!!!! I ordered the 10mm standoffs in the correct thread, think it is 4mm???? anyways you just screw these on to the factory studs in the dash. then I had metal washers that have a rubber backing. The rubber backing will hold the washer on to the standoff so you can then mount the speaker against the washer, then just use the original washer and nut, easy and not going to push you speaker through the dash. I mounted the same Infinity speaker that you are using.

Others have had luck using coupling nuts. The install onto the existing studs, and then you use a bolt of whatever length into the other half of the coupling nut.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kobachi

So you're not using these as standoffs, just as really long nuts so you have something to hold onto with your fingers?

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Correct. Others have used standoffs to space the speaker down from the dash. I wanted my speakers flush to the underside of the dash. I ordered the long standoffs and simply used them as nuts ... long nuts. No more trying to get a nut, or even a short standoff into that small opening

The passenger side went in in a couple minutes. The driver side a bit longer (the stud pointed such that I had to grind a bit of underdash away.

Does it matter how you hook up the front speaker wires? I cannot find a (-) or (+) symbol on the original speakers, but the "new" Infinity speakers do have connections labeled positive and negative. The passenger side wires are purple / purple+black, while the driver's side wires are red / red+black. My color-coded electrical diagram shows all speakers wires coming from the radio in black so not very helpful. I don't want to listen to the music back asswards...:rofl:

Thanks!
Andy

Plain speakers (no additional circuitry) can be wired either way. The important thing is to wire them consistently so that the sound image is all in the same phase. If the speakers are wired in opposite ways/phase, then the sound image will be out of phase and there will be some canceling. This can make the sound muddled.

If the speaker has additional circuitry attached to it then polarity is important

I'd do my best to wire per the speaker indicators and have the "-" side wired to the common/ground line.

Speaker wire is usually coded in some way. One side may have ridges or a secondary color (or color stripe). Sometimes one wire is steel colored and the other is copper colored. Take a very close look to see if there is a difference. Another difference may be the terminals. One may be smaller than the other

The DeLorean diagram indicates that the radio has only two commons ( I believe the left side is common and the right side is common ... not front vs back). The common wire is the "-" wire. See the following and note that the wires connect at the "dot"
Attachment 44512

If you cannot discern a designator on the speaker wire, then you can use a meter to find the common wire. Disconnect the speaker wire from the radio. Test each wire at the speaker end. When you have the two common wires, the meter will indicate zero Ohms (or very near so). If you use a "beep mode" then the meter will beep when tested across the two common wires.

I don't recall seeing the speaker wire colors you indicated installed in a DeLorean (that is not to say they are not factory). The PO may have wired it and if so, the above diagram may or may not be appropriate. But some testing with the meter should ferret it out.

I hope that helps or at least helps you get further.

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Originally Posted by gulwng3

Does it matter how you hook up the front speaker wires? I cannot find a (-) or (+) symbol on the original speakers, but the "new" Infinity speakers do have connections labeled positive and negative. The passenger side wires are purple / purple+black, while the driver's side wires are red / red+black. My color-coded electrical diagram shows all speakers wires coming from the radio in black so not very helpful. I don't want to listen to the music back asswards...:rofl:

Thanks!
Andy

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Yes, it matters. All of your music will play in reverse if you reverse the polarity. . .which could still be fun. . .

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YI_dqSO30Mg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by gulwng3

Does it matter how you hook up the front speaker wires? I cannot find a (-) or (+) symbol on the original speakers,

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there are smaller terminals on the ground wires

Where's the best place to order those standoffs? Im in the process of removing my front speakers and really dont wanna have to fiddle with getting them back in...hehe.

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Originally Posted by Lwanmtr

Where's the best place to order those standoffs? Im in the process of removing my front speakers and really dont wanna have to fiddle with getting them back in...hehe.

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I got mine from unicorpinc.com. I bought 10mm tall and 4mm thread I believe. I can't remember where I bought the washers with the rubber backing though. I think it was lowes or home depor

Thanks Ill check there

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lwanmtr

Where's the best place to order those standoffs? Im in the process of removing my front speakers and really dont wanna have to fiddle with getting them back in...hehe.

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I think I ordered mine via eBay from China. You might find via eBay and a US shipper at a bit higher cost

By the way, to the genius who posted this idea initially - thank you so much. I have no idea how much time and frustration this saved, but it was awesome.

I bought mine on Amazon, (like 99% of the things I buy in life). $7!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are shorter than recommended, so I doubled them up.

Also, interesting tip: put two together, with a washer in between. Now glue the washer to the female side only, then let it sit overnight. Then when you take it apart, you've got a washer perfectly glued to the top of the standoff.

Good idea on gluing a washer on them. Gonna be a while before I can get new speakers to replace mine.

Removing the old ones wasnt much of a problem..cept one of the nuts on the passenger side one wouldnt come off..had to wiggle n twist the speaker to get it loose.
Driver side came right out easy peasy.

Biggest suggestion I can give...remove your seats...Id have still been trying to squeeze under the steering wheel if mine werent already out.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by rickjames8

By the way, to the genius who posted this idea initially - thank you so much. I have no idea how much time and frustration this saved, but it was awesome.

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Thanks! I'm not sure about the genius part tho :):). I'm glad to hear that others are benefiting.

At the factory, this was probably a piece of cake with the dash upside down on a bench. Different story when you are on your back.

And to whoever first came up with the washer glueing. Good idea! It is amazing how fast the speaker magnet will suck parts to it. The brass stand-off is immune but not the washers... unless you are using SS washers.

Nick

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Originally Posted by nkemp

Thanks! I'm not sure about the genius part tho :):).
Nick

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Your profile pic would beg to differ. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by nkemp

Correct. Others have used standoffs to space the speaker down from the dash. I wanted my speakers flush to the underside of the dash. I ordered the long standoffs and simply used them as nuts ... long nuts. No more trying to get a nut, or even a short standoff into that small opening

The passenger side went in in a couple minutes. The driver side a bit longer (the stud pointed such that I had to grind a bit of underdash away.

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I think that is a good idea, but I have one concern. Shouldn't we be using lock-nuts on speakers? Regular nuts, standoffs, and coupling nuts will vibrate loose eventually. (speakers do a lot of vibrating).

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Originally Posted by cpistocco

I think that is a good idea, but I have one concern. Shouldn't we be using lock-nuts on speakers? Regular nuts, standoffs, and coupling nuts will vibrate loose eventually. (speakers do a lot of vibrating).

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You can use Locktite (blue not red). Or use lock washers.

IIRC ... the origial nuts were not locknuts. There may be some soft compression that helps avoid nut loosening.

The small 3.5" front speakers arent going to vibrate enough cause the nuts to rattle loose, as long as you tighten them good. I never had any speakers I installed in a car come loose from that myself.....of course I dont run 35" car vibrator speakers with 30000w amps...hehe.