Are the Gates hoses you speak of the ones that come with the kit? If not is this recommended?
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Techron is not meant for regular use and certainly not meant to be left in a non-running car for prolonged periods. It is to be put into a filled gas tank and used all up right away maybe once a year at most unless you put a lot of miles on your car. If one dose doesn't fix it you probably need the fuel injectors pulled, cleaned, and tested.
This has been an annoying issue for me to, I have the same issue with the fuel pump hoses. They are ethanol resistant rated as well and got them from both Ed and my local quality parts store but they don't last, especially if the car is not driven frequently enough.
I' now change them every couple of years to keep ahead.
I'm running stock fuel pump set up.
Unfortunately here in Ireland (not sure about northern Ireland) all unleaded petrol for sale is ethanol based..
The metering heads don't like the ethanol to.
If you drive it reguarly thru out the year with fresh fuel the problem is minimised
Shane
Can you site a source for this? I read through the literature and can't find anything to support this claim.
I was using Techron mainly to aid in cleaning valves and piston crowns. Bad turbo rebuild caused prolonged oil injection. That issue has been resolved.
Back to the actual reason for failure:
Gates Barricade hoses are not intended for use on barbed fittings:
http://www.napabeltshose.com/~/media...20Brochure.pdf
Techron is meant for use mainly as a fuel system cleaner. To clean the combustion chambers there are top end cleaners for that. If the deposits are really bad you are probably better off pulling the heads and removing the deposits mechanically. While it doesn't explicitly say it in the literature about overuse and leaving it in the lines, IMHO Techron is very volatile and is meant to loosen accumulated deposits inside the fuel system and injectors. It can't be doing any good for the rubber so the less time it is in contact with the rubber the better. Pulling and "reading" the spark plugs can give you some indication of what's going on in the combustion chambers. If you have a borescope even better.
Reference: https://www.techronclean.com/en_us/faq.html
That's really enough OT about fuel additives.Quote:
Q: What does Techron do?
A: Techron targets carbon deposits, breaks them up and clears them out of your car’s system, and keeps vital engine parts clean with continued use.
Solving issues surrounding rubber hoses & modern fuel modules:
A modern plastic fuel line should be used, nylon or PTFE. These can be installed on the existing K-jet barbs (see photo) without too much effort using 5/16" (8mm) tubing and assembly oil. Will need 90 degree quick disconnects at the fuel pump due to clearance with underbody.
Attachment 57273
If you have K-jet, the check valve needs to be in line with the supply hose. DMCH supplied valves have excessive OD for 5/16" tubing so a different style of valve is necessary. There are barbed check valves out there, 6mm OD valves will match the tubing ID. Have no idea which brands are quality as I've deleted the valve from my EFI setup.
The tubing needs to be indexed as it isn't going to allow for any rotation. Add the QD connectors on the bench first, then connect to pump and route / trim the lines. Once nylon has been seated onto the barb it will be nearly impossible to rotate.
Once everything is clocked into place the tubing should be clamped using proper earless EFI clamps. In my tests using Dorman fuel tubing, I was able to pull on the tubing hard enough to distort the plastic without the hose releasing from the barb. Dorman does recommend clamping the tube, though.
Posted my own fix for the rubber line issue in this thread:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?16...l=1#post236447
Feed side only. Needs to be rated for gasoline fuel injection.
Without the check valve the accumulator spring will decompress and drain fuel back into the tank through the fuel pump, causing a loss of rest pressure. Since deleting the check valve I can now hear this at every shutdown (a slow "bong.... bong.... bong... noise from the center of the frame). If you have EFI it doesn't matter since they don't vapor lock like K-jet.
If you have a hot start relay it honestly might not matter either. The HSR will help purge the fuel lines via the CSV at every startup which helps eliminate the rest pressure portion of the accumulator's job.