@Andrew: unfortunately I’m unable to see the photos you uploaded to DMCtoday. Do you feel like reposting them here?
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@Andrew: unfortunately I’m unable to see the photos you uploaded to DMCtoday. Do you feel like reposting them here?
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Here are the pictures that I took back in October / November 2016. Sorry if they aren't the greatest quality. Converting the Volvo engine to a DMC engine was pretty straightforward. Just make sure to follow the angular torqueing sequence detailed within the DMC shop manual when installing the lower crankcase. When swapping the lower crankcase make sure not to disturb the main bearing caps (don't flip the engine over when the lower crankcase is off or loose).
Also make sure to get the proper sealant and sealant primer. I still have both, thus I should be able to get you the part numbers without too much difficulty. IIRC I swapped the front cover from my DMC engine, but I can't recall why.
I contemplated cutting the outer two pulley groves off the four groove Volvo crank pulley to use in conjunction with the double groove water pump pulley. This, along with a longer A/C belt, would have provided the benefit / extra security of a dual water pump belt setup. Due to time constraints I didn't follow through on this mod, but it would certainly be interesting.
Thanks!
How exactly do you mate the dmc wiring harness to the ignition and fuel injection respectively?
The whole lambda setup is obsolete? You didn’t connect the lambda ecu at all? How do you get rpm to the tachometer?
And what about the idle control system? Wur and cold start injector?
I would like the Volvo engine to work as it did in the Volvo, I don’t mind at all omitting the clunky dmc addons.
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And, yeah. For once I should strive to use the proper chemicals for sealing. In earlier projects I’ve just used generic gasket silicone, with mixed results.
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I can answer a few of these for Andrew ;)
Tach is triggered from the coil (-) wire. Virtually any OEM single-coil ignition system will drive the tach. MSD needs an adapter.
These are all answered with the word "carbureted" :D
If you're just performing a short block swap all of the electrical Bosch FI parts should bolt up. You could keep the DMC intake manifold to be sure of the mounting provisions.
I would keep the DMC crank pulley as it's quite a bit lighter than the Volvo pulley. Plus it has a larger OD and will overdrive the AC compressor which is probably not desirable.
OK, thanks!
I'm not going carbureted. I'm going to use the Volvo unit as is (as much as possible).
+1 On what Luke said.
Sorry I can't provide more K-Jet info...now if you wanted into on the Peugeot 604 Solex Carb setup, I'm the guy LOL.
I would use the B28E distributor as opposed to the DMC distributor. The DMC distributors were known for having a very mild advance curve, thus making the slightly higher performance Volvo units more desirable. I'm running late 70's Volvo distributors sourced from B28F engines on both of my Deloreans, and I've been happy with the results.
It would be interesting to confirm what distributor Volvo used on the B28E. If it's not too much trouble, could you post the Bosch part number from the distributor body?
With regard to the lower crankcase swap, take a look at Joe's pictures and documentation from his 3.0 swap. His pictures are better than mine. In addition to the Volvo and DMC workshop manual, I used his website to walk me through the crankcase swap procedure.
http://www.tmproductions.com/repairs...ower-crankcase
By the way, where are you located and how did you find a B28E?
Volvo manual TP31397-1 shows:
(Values below given in engine RPM / degrees - manual lists values at distributor RPM / degrees)
B28E: 0 237 402 013
Total advance: 26 degrees
Advance curves from 900/1150 RPM to 4800 RPM
Vacuum adds 15 degrees
B28F: 0 237 402 017
Total advance: 22 degrees (listed as 13 distributor degrees)
Advance curves from 1000/1200 RPM to 4000 RPM
Vacuum adds 20 degrees
Photo of curves on page 76