Options for wheel speed sensing
One of the challenges/benefits of electric drive is instant max torque. The challenge component of this means that there is a greater risk of loss of traction. A Tesla Model S solution is to monitor the speed of each rear wheel (in the rear drive models) and to apply a combination of reduced power and instantaneous braking to individual wheels.
So the question becomes, how best to measure the speed of the individual rear wheels? Is the only option... having magnets & sensor mounted at the wheel / transmission side (on each side)?
Thanks
Jeff
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And so the journey begins...
Two photos of the rear motor from a 2015 Tesla 70D (dual identical motor version), 259HP drive unit. The drive unit includes the motor, the inverter (DC to AC), and the transmission. The photo with the front suspension parts gives a good impression of the unit size. Suffice to say it's small.
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I'm under no illusion that this is going to be easy or quick, or supported by vendors, or anything other than going where no one has gone before.
This is going to be fun.
How to handle an Engine for Sale?
As part of the process of converting to Electric, lots of parts are no longer needed. My plan is to post them in the For Sale section on the forum. While some of the parts are standalone (new style fuel pump/sender unit), others could be bundled (EFI Conversion : megasquirt, fuel rails, low profile injectors, etc.). My plan is to bundle first, and if it doesn't sell, to list the items separately. There are so many items that I'm going to list them as I have them ready-to-ship, so it could take a while. I took an inventory of "parts already off the car" or purchased "waiting to go on car" in storage buckets and came to 200 separate items (not counting multiples), of which probably one third will be offered for sale. Items currently "yet to be de-installed from the car" probably account for another 20 items.
The item that I'm most curious about how to sell is the engine, as I've never sold or bought an engine before. At the moment the engine is stripped down at the top (heads still on), done to clean the valley in preparation for the EFI project that never was due to a house move.
Jeff
Electric hybrid fiero project
Dr. Jeff, I'm a good friend of Nicholas R on the forum here, and helped him with his LS1 conversion. About the same time you started your project here, I started my own electric conversion on my Fiero (link to blog). I won't bore with non-delorean related details unless you ask, but Nick sent me a link to this thread to follow as I do mine. Basically I am looking for 100hp to power the front wheels while keeping an engine in the rear. I have decided to use the Leaf system because of this and the batteries. Obviously you're looking for a much higher output system on yours since it is the main drive. Have you seen what Jehu Garcia has done with his VW bus on youtube? Link to his youtube Electric samba here He basically built his own tesla battery packs for his DIY powerwall, and from the looks of the OEM packs he had in one video, they might fit very well in the front of the D.
I'm by no means an expert in any of this at all, but seeing as we are trying to do similar things, if you have anything you want to bounce off me, PM me.
I really look forward to seeing this happen!
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Calipers : Trashy in a sexy kind of way
They look sort of trashy in a sexy kind of way, and like most lingerie they won't be seen by the public.
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Test fitting Front Suspension bits - except swaybar
After a lot of preparation and playing with spring compressors, I finally got to test fit all the front suspension components (except the sway bar). Everything fits pretty good, after some trials with the LHS spring bowing out and striking the angle drive. Re-greased and refitted the original angle drive (creates another 5mm space) and fits the spindle nut better. Also turned the spring so that the end of the spring was outermost at the lower control arm.
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Rear suspension/Brakes rebuild and New Parts
Quick update on the TesLorean project...
Lots of powder coating on rear suspension parts and calipers. Getting closer to putting the wheel back on and starting the body/frame separation. Surprising what you can achieve with a toaster over, besides just toast. Got the bushings in after this photo, going in was fine, getting them out what a chore (needed two heavy duty washers with exactly the right ID). I used the Hervey "springs between the pads" again.
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Got some new Tesla parts. Picture is the PTC Heater (electric air heater). The design previously called for the same coolant loop that cooled/heated the drive unit & batteries to also heat the cabin, but after further study the heat from the drive unit / batteries would not show up fast enough to aid in defrosting the windows. The PCT heater uses battery voltage (400v) and can be instantly switched on/off and at six different heating levels. This also removes the need for a coolant loop into the airbox, so the coolant loops can stay with the batteries and drive unit.
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Jeff
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Rear Suspension Upgraded and Reassembled
Between vacation breaks, still forging ahead with the rear suspension rebuild..
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- Poly trailing arm bushing
- DMC Inconel bolt for the trailing arm
- SPAX shocks (adjustable)
- Powder coated, refurbished calipers
- Powder coated upper and lower control arms
- Powder coated stock rear spring
- Stainless braided flexible brake line
- Stainless caliper cross-over brake line
- Cleaned, treated, and painted frame area
(still to do : refurbish and rebuild parking brake)
Preparing for Frame/Body Separation
I scrapped together this listing from multiple postings on this forum (thanks to all the contributors!). I've already got most of the 'disconnect' items done, but I wanted to get a checklist together to be sure I didn't miss anything.
I'll be doing the lift on a MaxJax 2 post lift, probably doing the separation at an upcoming Tech Day - so I can attract some extra eyes. Frame will be set down on wheel dollies (just to make moving it around the garage a little more flexible), and the body will go onto some mover dollies connected with a temporary frame (to make it movable - and not stuck on the lift). Once separated the engine and transmission are coming out, and ready for positioning the Tesla motor and measuring for mounts and axles.
Body Frame Separation
- Disconnect
- - Front
- - - Bracing
- - - - Front radiator shroud
- - - AC
- - - - Evaporator Lines @ passenger wheel well
- - - Coolant
- - - - Heater Core lines @ front firewall
- - - Control
- - - - Steering linkage @ firewall
- - - - Speedo cable at Angle Drive
- - - - Brake lines @ master cylinder
- - - Electrical
- - - - Radiator Fan lines @ front frame
- - - - Horn lines @ front frame
- - - - Fuel level sender wiring @ sender
- - - - fuel pump wiring @ fuel pump
- - - - Front lighting wiring/ground junction area @ front crumple tubes
- - - Fuel
- - - - Fuel filler hose @ fuel tank
- - - Hydraulics
- - - - Clutch line @ master clutch cylinder
- - - - Brake lines @ master cylinder
- - Cabin
- - - Shift boot and shifter @ console/shifter area
- - - Mode switch vacuum lines @ engine bay / driver's pontoon ?
- - Engine Bay
- - - Control
- - - - Throttle cable @ spool
- - - Electrical
- - - - Engine wiring @ connector box
- - - - O2 sensor @ sensor
- - - - Alternator Power @ alternator
- - - - Starter Power @ starter
- - - - Automatic Transmission computer lines (if applicable)
- - - - Battery ground cable @ passenger lower control arm AND @ rear frame
- - - - Frame/body grounds @ rear quarter stainless panels
- - - Emissions
- - - - Carbon Canister lines @ drivers pontoon
- - - Air
- - - - Air duct to filter box @ passenger's pontoon
- - Rear
- - - Control
- - - - Emergency Brakes @ each brake caliper / rear hub
- - Rear Fascia
- - - Engine cover release cable @ release
- - - Rear tail lights (for access)
- - - Fascia wiring assembly @ inside rear fascia
- - - Bolts along bottom of fascia
- - - Rear fascia assembly (whole)
- Bolts Removed
- - 2 bolts in the trunk bolting to shock towers
- - 2 bolts inside near center console bolting sideways into the frame
- - 2 bolts near the transmission/engine connection bolting the frame the body to the frame
- - 2 seat belt bolts @ inner side of seat
- - 2 in rear pontoons @ pontoon inside, after rear fascia removed
- - 2 above the rear shock towers (under shock tower brace)
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Dear 6311, I have your Frame
Made good progress running through the checklist in preparation for the body-frame separation. As Nick suggested, I'll create a new thread with the separation checklist included, I just wanted to 'test run' it on 6313 first. I have already found some updates (such as the rear marker lights needing to be pulled back into the rear fascia), but more on that later.
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When I got the rear fascia off of 6313, it looks like I might have the frame of 6311. If you're out there 6311, I've got your frame. I've got to think that this was something that happened at the factory. Perhaps the 6313 frame was pulled from the line for a fix and 6311 stood in to keep things flowing, or 6311 was written by mistake on the rear frame? The VIN number under the headliner on the driver's door is consistent with the VIN tags, i.e. 6313.