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Ok, I have replaced a lot of radiators on other cars, but I was looking for tips on replacing on the DeLorean. Best way to drain, any tips on getting in and out, and how to fill it back up, since it is way upfront... Any help or tips you have to offer would be appreciated
Thanks,
Craig
I used some rope to weave in and out of the condenser, and in and out of the rock screen. That suspended the condenser nicely while swapping out the rad.
Check that both fans are working while you're in there. It's also a good time to replace any original hoses.
Jack up the rear end of the car when refilling, and bleeding the system. Bleed it by removing and reconnecting the hose at top passenger side of the radiator, and at the bleed screw at the water pump. There might be a small hose installed from the water pump that runs to the expansion tank, which eliminates the bleed screw, and auto-bleeds the system.
I've done this a couple times and it is way easier to remove the front sway bar and drop the radiator with the fans & shroud attached then to disconnect them and leave them there. Having a buddy there with you (one on each side of radiator to disconnect, lower & re-install) is also way easier than by yourself. I also tied the condenser up so it would not fall down while sitting overnight.
You may want to shoot all of the bolts (shroud, air dam, radiator, etc.) with PB Blaster & let sit a while.
Thanks, I am replacing the fans and shroud with 2 new lower amp 11" fans with shroud so the old ones have to come out as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by ssdelorean
Did you have to jack up the rear end to re-fill fluid?
Craig
You really should have a cooling system pressure tester to test for leaks and bleed the air. You can buy it or some stores lend them out. Dropping the sway bar allows you to remove the rad with the shroud and fans attached. Still have to disconnect the condenser coil and you will have to hold it up with some rope. Figure you will break most of those little bolts even with PB Blaster. If the coolant hoses are old and brittle you should replace them.
I second having a buddy to help. I also put anti-seize on all bolts so if I have to do this again in the future, hopefully everything will come apart a little bit easier. Oh, and you will absolutely break the rock screen bolts (if it's original). I thought I could soak them down in PB Blaster and slowly work them off a bit then back on. It seemed to work at first then they just broke off one by one. Had to buy a new rock screen.
The last time, no. It may help when re-filling depending upon how high you have your front end up on jacks/ramp. After re-filling I ran it up to temp and checked for leaks, then dropped down to ground and checked level in overflow tank when cool. I have the self bleeder add-on hose above the water pump so sitting level air bubbles will work their way out.Quote:
Originally Posted by Silverbullet
Crap. I forgot to do that!Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate88
I ended up snipping off a small vertical segment in my rock screen every where one of those bolts are located. That way I can get a small wrench/needle nose plyers thru the screen to hold on to the bolt head when removing/putting back on.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nate88