New Owner: The Greatest Adventure of #6895’s 1100 mile journey

Welcome and congrats!

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Originally Posted by megamanex

fuel tank cleaned with new filter installed

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What about fuel pump and fuel hoses? The original pumps and rubber are long past their sell by date.

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Originally Posted by megamanex

new stainless steel clutch line

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Take a peek at the master clutch cylinder by the clutch pedal. See if it's leaking and if so, not a dangerous amount.

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Originally Posted by megamanex

My overall question is this...should I attempt the 1100 mile drive in the car or just rent and tow the car the whole way down?

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Every situation is different. It's hard to say in a vacuum. It sounds like you probably have the bare essentials to try it (working brake system, replaced coolant hoses, new fans, working turn signals and A/C). I went to pick my car up under the impression that it "needed nothing" and was "driven regularly," only to find that it needed a lot of things done (and re-done correctly). Good luck!

Towing insurance. Hopefully everything will go OK and won't need it. AAA or your car insurance company and check their limitations.

Congratulations and I hope it will be a great adventure bringing it home.

The safest choice would be to trailer or have the car transported. Flying into a distant city, getting a car that you don't know the exact condition of, getting plates and insurance, driving it a long distance and unfamiliar with the car, the weather can get bad, any of these things can go wrong. If the tires are old they can blow, you could overheat, a lot of things can go wrong. Often the decision is not made logically, you do it on emotion and luck. If you do break down the tow will cost a lot more than if you had it transported in the first place. If you figure your plane fare, time, tolls, gas, and all of the other associated costs besides the obvious cost to fix the car. Overheating the motor and "popping" the cylinder heads can cost a LOT. I vote you tow or transport the car home where you can work on it and enjoy it safely and close to home. If you do choose to drive it, take a fire extinguisher, extra water, some hand tools, wire, tape, fuses, battery pack, AAA card, cell phone, a list of other Delorean owners on the way that could help. You can never carry enough spare parts and the ones you do take you won't need. A tire pressure gauge, a fuel can, a can of tire sealant. Don't trust the fuel gauge till you KNOW it is accurate, go by the trip odometer if the speedo works. Run a can of Techron through a full tank of gas. Make sure all of your lights work. A camera and maybe a good luck charm.

fire extinguisher and check those fuel lines my man, seriously

I've just heard back on a the fuel lines.
They're not the original lines from '81 but are newer and aren't steel braided (which I plan to change). The pump is new.

He's telling me the master clutch isn't leaking but i'll be taking a flashlight down there to check it out.

Fire extinguisher is a definite first get upon receiving the vehicle.

David T,
I'm going to give it a day or so driving around the city before committing to try the long haul drive. It ANYTHING seems off I'll be towing it the whole haul down facing forward and covered.

Jets 81,
Insurance is on the car for towing and breakdowns 100 percent!

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Originally Posted by megamanex

7. Wiper blades are a good call. Does anyone know the part number where I could pick up a entirely new set to take on my way?

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The original refills or blades were Bosch 40920. Looks like they're NLA.

Practice getting both wipers of off the hook on the wiper arm. No fun to fuss with in the rain if they are stuck.

Both wipers are 20in. size and mount on the hook connector as you will see. Napa, Autozone, any decent parts store will have something that fits.

I have 22 inch wipers...no problems

I'm feeling MUCH better about the work done to the car and the ability to drive it after getting the full history on the car.
Looks like it was worked on in 11/2018 and had quite a bit done to it by Delorean Northwest.

Sorry this will be a long post...

Full (abbreviated) history below:
R&R OR ADJUST TORSION BAR OR RETAINING PLATE (EACH, REAR SCREEN FINISHER REMOVED))
R&R REAR SCREEN FINISHER/REPLACE UNICAPS
SHOP TIME - Perform in-situ clean out of CPR ports

MODE SWITCH REPAIR KIT
R&R A/C CONSOLE FACE PLATE
R&R MODE CONTROL SWITCH (A/C FACEPLATE REMOVED)
REBUILD A/C MODE CONTROL SWITCH

SWITCH, COOLING FAN THERMOSTAT
FUEL PUMP - AFTERMARKET
HOSE, FUEL PICK UP
HOSE, FUEL RETURN INSIDE TANK TO BAFFLE
SEAL, FUEL PUMP CVR
RING, FUEL PUMP
SCREEN, FUEL PUMP
LINE, FUEL RETURN
Fuel tank baffle assembly with wire hold-downs, support ring
CLAMP, HOSE


CLEAN OUT TANK IN CAR
R&R FUEL PUMP ACCESS COVER
R&R FUEL PUMP AND/OR INNER COVER SEAL AND/OR SUPPORT
R&R BAFFLE, PICKUP HOSE OR PICKUP SCREEN

CALIPER KIT, FR
CALIPER KIT, REAR
PISTON FRONT
PISTON REAR
PADS, F&R (CERAMIC
BRAKE FLUID
R&R FRONT CALIPER
OVERHAUL FRONT CALIPER
DETACH HANDBRAKE CALIPER
R&R REAR CALIPER
OVERHAUL REAR CALIPER
BLEED AND FLUSH BRAKE SYSTEM

High Performance fans from DPNW
HOSE KIT W/ RADIATOR
HEADER BOTTLE, ALL STAINLESS ASSY
COOLANT - PREMIX
CAP,COOLANT RESVR
INSTALL COMPLETE COOLANT HOSE KIT INCLUDING RADIATOR (COOLING SYSTEM BLEED & FAN THERMO SWITCH & SEAL, CHECK ELECTRIC COOL FAN OPERATION INCLUDED)
R&R PLASTIC COOLANT RESERVOIR, REPLACE WITH STAINLESS STEEL


STEERING BUSHING, STRG COL
REPLACE STEERING COLUMN BUSHING
R&R UPPER STEERING SHAFT JOINT

IGNITION WIRE SET - 8MM, BLACK
CAP, DISTRIBUTOR
ROTOR, DISTRIBUTOR
Spark Plugs - Set of 6
WASHER M8 COPPER
WASHER M12 COPPER
R&R wires, plugs, cap, and rotor

THROTTLE CABLE
R&R THROTTLE CABLE ASSY (INCLUDES CHECK FOR FULL THROTTLE OPENING)
R&R CENTER CONSOLE (FRONT PANEL AND COIN TRAY REMOVED)

Epoxy damage on frame at various points - front frame cradle, belly pan, rear frame cradle, trailing arms, front crumple tube inner surfaces
POR-15, Gray (4 ounce can)
Remove old damaged epoxy as required and then apply POR-15 to protect exposed steel. Includes chipping, grinding, sanding, and application of new coating.
Perform in-situ cleaning and repainting of the LCA's to the extent possible without removal

BOOT, LWR BALL JOINT/TIE ROD END
REPLACE TIE ROD END BOOT (EACH

OIL FILTER
LOF: LUBE OUTER SUSP'N JOINTS, CHANGE ENGINE OIL & FILTER, 4WAY SPRAY RUBBER SUSP'N BSH'GS; INSPECT BRAKE PADS, TIRE PRESSURES, ALL FLUID LEVELS, AND LIGHTS.

Front sway bar bushings rusty and delaminating. One threaded hole in frame partially stripped, other bushings stiff.
BUSHING,STAB STAR
BUSHING,STAB-BAR
Stud - zinc plated, M10
NUT, M10 NYLOC

MASTER CYLINDER, BRAKE
R&R BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER
BLEED AND FLUSH BRAKE SYSTEM

The below was completed last month.

SLAVE CYL, CLUTCH
STAINLESS STEEL CLUTCH LINE
R&R CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER
INSTALL FLEXIBLE STAINLESS STEEL CLUTCH HYDRAULIC LINE
FLUSH & BLEED HYDRAULIC CLUTCH SYSTEM

Extensive list - I'd feel much better as well if that was my purchase. :)

Welcome here and congratulation on your purchase :)
Have a safe trip back and please keep us updated ;)