It looks like you are missing the front end recall reinforcing brackets. Kit is here:
http://store.delorean.com/p-10229-fr...ecall-kit.aspx
I don't see the brackets, not sure about the castle nuts and cotter pins, etc. Can't tell from the photos.
Given the surface rust on your suspension (front and rear), I would count on needing to get your brakes rebuilt (calipers) and fluid flushed. Perhaps the rotors will need turning too.
Not sure about the steering rack, a closer inspection would be recommended. Look for tears in the boots. I'd imagine your tie rod ends and the ball joints maybe in poor shape considering the areas next to them.
Not sure what that greyish goo is that looks to have dripped down in a couple spots on the front frame?
The part you mentioned as separating is the door seal:
http://store.delorean.com/p-10340-ou...eal-front.aspx
Likely just the glue needs attention. Not a big deal or fix.
In that same photo, the side finishing metal pieces along the windshield generally meet the top piece flush. Yours is sticking out some, as the top horizontal piece looks too short (which I'd assume is the side piece not flush and not the top piece being too short).
http://store.delorean.com/p-9322-a-p...nisher-lh.aspx
It is screwed into place in a couple spots. Yours might just have had a screw fall out. Don't worry, screws fall out all the time. The world is an imperfect place. :)
Yea, cracking is no nice. See if you can find the date code on the sidewall and report back. Not that it matters too much as these should likely be replaced after seeing that cracking.
Yea, important. Charging the battery of course, but if the belt goes, your coolant doesn't flow and you get what you got with the overheat. Rule of thumb is, if you see the battery light come on, pull over immediately. Don't keep going even if you live just a couple more miles away.
That's the portion of the lower engine cover stay/bracket that is supposed to be attached to the underside of the lower cover. It's not a very amazing design, but yea, it won't work like that.
See if this image helps you understand how it is supposed to work:
http://store.delorean.com/c-312-8-4-...ver-lower.aspx
It's part number 10 on that diagram.
Take Chris' advice, leave that badboy alone unless you take precautions for asbestos inhalation. That looks to be the one under the catalytic convertor. You have much more of yours left than my car had. Not sure what the going advice is on those in general? Bueller? Bueller?
That's the otterstat. That's a silly name for the "turn the cooling fans on switch." Hard to say if yours is working, since if it was, the fans would come on when the coolant gets hot, but since your coolant wasn't flowing, it was going to get hot anyway.
You can replace the seal for that and it likely stops the leak. Your otterstat "tee" is pointed in the proper direction though (down) so that is good. Take note of those leads there as we'll likely be jumpering those in the near future to prove your fans are working.
http://store.delorean.com/p-6348-coo...otterstat.aspx
That's no moon, it's a space station. Just kidding, that's not the fuel system, it's your bulkhead connections (electrical) and the cylinder thingy is your ignition coil.
You have about the cleanest one I've ever seen so bonus marks for that. :)
Ok, yea, you can see the engine bay light switch has the connection on the left disconnected. The plunger is supposed to hit into a small little tab and depress the plunger. It might be missing, not sure, maybe that's why it got disconnected?
http://store.delorean.com/p-9651-lgt-sw-actuator.aspx
Check your fuses against the colours/sizes that should be in there (the diagram is in the manual and on here in the resources section). There aren't any blue 15 Amp ones on purpose.
Priority order:
Alt belt and coolant
New tires
Rusty suspension (brake work, ball joints, tie rod ends, front end recall, etc. as mentioned above)
VOD cleaning can really wait unless you know there is a hole in the engine block waiting there for you. Not wait indefinitely maybe, but it doesn't need to be done right this second. I would get the car running reasonably well and safely and then go after the VOD. You need to take so much apart that if it isn't running well before you start, you'll never figure out what is not right to get it going once you do the reassembly.
The radio, cigar lighter and speedo are all items that can wait until the crucial ones are done. Speedo seems crucial, but it really isn't on this car.
Get the car safe and reliable before doing cosmetic stuff or big swaps or changes.
Or use this to decide: would you rather drive the car when it's less than cosmetically perfect or admire its cosmetic perfection while its stuck in the driveway? Wait on the cosmetic stuff.