VIN 11408, getting it back on the road!

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Originally Posted by Josh

Something else not engine related... Taillight boards. I tried out my stock ones and they worked terribly and I need to feel confident my brake lights are going to work! So I measured out the board and cut it out of 1/16" aluminum and riveted bulb sockets to it. Snaps in like the the original boards and I replaced the flaky connector with a weatherpack connector. All the red lenses have dual filament bulbs so they are park and brake lights.

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3...68627978_n.jpg

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Josh,
Bringing up an older post here, but I'm in a similar process of replacing the taillight boards. I know new boards are not that expensive, but I want to do some things with dual filament sockets. When I saw this, I was in the middle of meticulously measuring the stock board. Now I'm wondering if you might have a CAD file for the aluminum replacement you made and would be willing to share?

Sincerely,
Ron

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Originally Posted by DMC-Ron

Josh,
Bringing up an older post here, but I'm in a similar process of replacing the taillight boards. I know new boards are not that expensive, but I want to do some things with dual filament sockets. When I saw this, I was in the middle of meticulously measuring the stock board. Now I'm wondering if you might have a CAD file for the aluminum replacement you made and would be willing to share?

Sincerely,
Ron

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Hi Ron,

Here is the .DWG file for the taillight board. Be mindful of the thickness, I think I had it cut out of 14ga instead of 16ga, so the clips on the end didnt fit very well. It is a starting point for you at the very least.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1tS...A5QztGh1hQskGD

For the bulbs, the stock lights use single filaments across the board. I used dual filaments for the brake and tail lights, as a effort to increase visibility. You can see this in the picture the sockets with the two wires. The dual filament sockets also have a wider base so I had to clock the sockets off the other holes a little and drill new ones.

All in all it works very well and I was able to increase the light output in the rear, something you cannot do with the stock tail light boards. I wired everything to a weatherpack connector to further ensure the lights have a solid connection. Something you can never be sure of with the stock setup.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Josh

Hi Ron,

Here is the .DWG file for the taillight board. Be mindful of the thickness, I think I had it cut out of 14ga instead of 16ga, so the clips on the end didnt fit very well. It is a starting point for you at the very least.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1tS...A5QztGh1hQskGD

For the bulbs, the stock lights use single filaments across the board. I used dual filaments for the brake and tail lights, as a effort to increase visibility. You can see this in the picture the sockets with the two wires. The dual filament sockets also have a wider base so I had to clock the sockets off the other holes a little and drill new ones.

All in all it works very well and I was able to increase the light output in the rear, something you cannot do with the stock tail light boards. I wired everything to a weatherpack connector to further ensure the lights have a solid connection. Something you can never be sure of with the stock setup.

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Josh,
I was about halfway there with the measurements then would've needed to CAD it up. So this saved a bunch of tedious work. Thanks a bunch.

I'm not sure I follow the wider base issue. Out of curiosity, I miked an 1156 socket against a 1157 socket and they were basically identical. Also miked a new 1156 bulb against a new 1157 bulb and they had the same diameter base (about 15.15).

Wait a second. I think just caught on. It's the mounting tabs of the sockets where the securing holes were wider with the 1157. I've noticed there are quite a few Chinese suppliers and they have a variety of mounting tabs. There doesn't seem to be a real standard for the mounting.

Thanks again,
Ron

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Originally Posted by DMC-Ron

Josh,
I was about halfway there with the measurements then would've needed to CAD it up. So this saved a bunch of tedious work. Thanks a bunch.

I'm not sure I follow the wider base issue. Out of curiosity, I miked an 1156 socket against a 1157 socket and they were basically identical. Also miked a new 1156 bulb against a new 1157 bulb and they had the same diameter base (about 15.15).

Wait a second. I think just caught on. It's the mounting tabs of the sockets where the securing holes were wider with the 1157. I've noticed there are quite a few Chinese suppliers and they have a variety of mounting tabs. There doesn't seem to be a real standard for the mounting.

Thanks again,
Ron

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Sounds like you have it figured. These are most certainly Chinese; ebay specials.