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I?m looking for a lighter gray paint for the facias since my car is mirror polished
The dark paint clashes too much so I peeled it off
Anyone have what they used and with pictures?

Thanks...

Martin, I’ve got an issue with 3rd and 4th not getting into gear.
I Test drove to verify and new bushings put in last year.
But seems like a lot slop in 1st moves into the slot 3rd should be in...

Ok should I disconnect the shifter Connector arm?
And how would I do that?
And what to look for as far as how to shift the tranny?


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I’m sure about the shifter position 100.% As I drove it to verify
1,2,5 Reverse all work

It would shift in all gears but would be hard to get into and out of 1st and 2nd which I attributed...

Well I Drove the car today and after a few hours adjusting and getting what I thought was close
I can 100% unequivocally say I have NO 3rd and 4th gear!
There’s seems to be a lot play in 1st...

I can’t get into R without lifting also No nothing below 5th I’m quite sure it’s in 5th gear but hey I could be wrong just nothing below and it’s way right where it should be
No grease in...

Still can’t find 3th,4th?
Here’s some shots of 1st 1st picture then
Then neutral
(Note position of fork)
Am I missing something or is 1st really 3rd gear?
The car seems to pull forward in...

Wow all good Points Rich
Yes 1st thing in the morning. I’m going to ace
The car is ready to roll this is the last thing I need to do other than install the fuel closing plate.
So I’m anxious...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210326/6612062c4aac1fd373088270465cd332.jpg
So I cleaned it up quite a bit
And yeah it appears what I thought was 1st-2nd was actually 3rd-4th
It appears Rich...

Going to clean everything up, the reverse lockout pin was cut in half but I was able to move it forward so I have that protection.
Hopefully I can keep trying to adjust the cross gate adjustment...

Suggestions on aligning the stick to get it to shift
Trying to align the cross gate adjustment nut
Can’t get it into 3th or 4th gear
1st 2nd and 5th and reverse seem to be fine
But somehow...

Reinstalled the clutch master and installed a new Slave, I already have a stainless line .
But I’m not getting any fluid out of the master when I loosen the line under pressure.
Nor at the slave...

Through the whole line? I don’t want to remove the line


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What solvent and procedure would be best to remove clutch fluid from line
Trying to remove DOT 5 so that’s why
Thanks


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200912/4b71052797569df24effb71d13ca18de.jpg


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Ok will do I’ll call either later today or Tues.


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So Progress, I started it up and it was working with all rear rods disconnected. Put those back on one by one an it works, except the rear lock latch rod.
I’ve tried adjusting that one but nothing...

Ok Got the lock unit back updated (thx Dave) and new wiper arm plus a new actuator from Toby installed on the driver door but even with the rods disconnected on the driver door lock doesn’t get...

Yeah actuators have been installed for years and working not sure of correctly but they appear too


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I’ll take a picture


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Well he did something I sent him the one I had in there I think it was oem?


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I have NO X on mine and Front has been done for 2 years now and it’s still as shiny as ever. I do nothing to it except wipe it down (not often)
Agree it is hard work but
Kinda disagree on flaws...

Well looks like I can either get the front lock rod or the rear lock rod to work but not both.
Adjusting the other rods do not seems to help, as the wiper arm doesn’t move forward or rearward...

Ok I’ll try readjusting tomorrow
On the lock relay I have Hervey’s unit and bitsyncer checked it out 3 weeks ago said everything looked ok.
Should I have a second opinion and who could do...

Ok so are ya sayin move everything alittle forward?


I hesitant cause it took so long to get it this close but I’ll do it
Now
I one thing thats got me scratching my head, is the CLS is not...