+1
Wait for an OE gasket.
Type: Posts; User: Ron
+1
Wait for an OE gasket.
The threads are only "locked out"/closed when an item has been purchased/sold, or by OP request.
Members are asked to not post in the For Sale and Services / Want To Buy section(s), unless they are...
The "3rd" wire is what grounds the 2 wires Dave mentions above (see below).
70421
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RE: "Wanted- Do not post a question or remark if you do not intend to sell an item."
...
Maybe this from the Resources Section will help:
https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=92&d=1306264512
Please post the Location.
I agree that you should always check the dwell after changing injectors. To get it running so you can, try a shot of starting fluid under the air plate. If no luck, put an spare plug wire in the coil...
Yes, as long as you insulate the joint afterwards...:smile:
Swapping the two plugs is one of the tests to check the TTS. (It sends power to the cold start valve.) The engine temperature sensor has nothing to do with the cold start valve (its for the gauge...
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Try swapping the injectors you suspect are bad over to cylinders you think are good...
https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?19806-Governor-Crazy&p=277602&viewfull=1#post277602
Assuming the pic shows right before you tried to install it, try loading the piston into the lower half of the ring compressor instead of the top half...Soak with oil first.
Down under where you enter your username and password there is a checkbox labeled "Remember Me?"...
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+1
Need a bit of clarification here... When you said it was "leaking oil near the torque converter seal...", did you mean gear oil or automatic transmission fluid? I was assuming Automatic transmission...
"Permatex High Temperature Sleeve Retainer is a high temperature anaerobic adhesive that secures slip and press fit assemblies and restores fit to worn or out-of-tolerance assemblies. This adhesive...
I agree, it wasn't temp nor too much fluid.
He should of used a high temp sleeve retainer and the correct installation tool, imho.
+1 :thumbup:
^+1^
The Lambda counter is also a good place to start checking to see if the cable is at fault. Rather than top to bottom, divide and conquer...jack the left front up, spin the wheel and see if...
I agree, it's not that bad. Trim the high spots off and taper the end a bit. Then chase the threads from the good to the bad as mentioned and you'll be good to go.
That would be ok if the damage will allow the tool to get started straight and smoothly.
Sorry, I fixed the link. Works best for me, especially if the lead threads are smashed...
Try a thread chaser (Pitches 0.75, 1.0, 1.25, 1.5, 1.75, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0mm on Amazon).
FWIW- If is was an auto, I would of suggested checking its vacuum line for leaks/sucking fluid...
Bad oil can definitely make it fail...if during the 500 miles it was running way rich (or anything...
WTH???
...We don't have to deal with the tests here, but if I'm reading them right, it looks like everything for high RPM is worse while the low RPM is better than the 8/30 test now (after replacing...