[QUOTE=Ron;233559]Missing a post?
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2857-PLEASE-READ-BEFORE-POSTING-!!!-For-sale-Wanted-section-rules[/QUOT
?
Type: Posts; User: OutOfTime
[QUOTE=Ron;233559]Missing a post?
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2857-PLEASE-READ-BEFORE-POSTING-!!!-For-sale-Wanted-section-rules[/QUOT
?
Potentially sold to out of town buyer.
If it falls through I will post here. Thanks
See my new thread - Shingle Springs is about 2 or 2.5 hours from San Jose
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?16391-1981-5spd-Grey-Interior-Northern-California-95682-15500
To answer another question, frame is solid no rust, its been a California car for at least the past 20 years
Its on craigslist too, only for about an hour and Ive got 5 people texting me... maybe...
Grey interior with a 5 speed transmission. 32k miles VIN 4710
Very clean with new tires, new fuel pump, new paint on bumpers, new door seals, new battery and misc other parts. Starts, but does not...
Still no idle... What is the standard setup for the idle microswitch? Its pressed down completely now, I have to press the gas (or twist the throttle control) to get it to "click". Is that proper?
...
I turned the key to the run position and was able to observe the valve slowly close, however it did not reopen, it stayed closed. Is that normal?
Yes, it is buzzing. Confirming this little hose is what you are saying to remove and look inside:
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No backfiring. How would I test to see if the idle speed motor is operating? Thank you
It started! I have the relay back plugged in and was able to fire it up with a little gas. I have the video attached below. It will stay running as long as I keep the RPMs over 2000 or so... as...
I pulled the passenger side injectors, cleaned them up, and tested them each. They are all spraying a satisfactory level. Tested a start before I fought with the drivers side injectors and no...
The car has been sitting for about 5 years. I uploaded a video to youtube of trying to start it just now, with the relay jumped and FP running. It seems like it tries to start for just a second,...
Didnt know I had to jumper the pump at this stage, but I will do that. Air plate is up at the moment, making light contact with the housing.
No I do not.
Update...
I rigged up the ground and reinstalled the fuel pump. It primes and acts fine. I replaced the fuel filter after, while I was under the car and can verify that it was full of fuel (that...
Well I found the problem... LOL There is NO inertia switch! Looks like a long time ago the previous owner cut it off. See pic:
35812
Theres my black/purple wire....
So heres my plan,...
I did, and there is NO continuity. The FP black/purple is dead.
Yes, with the jumper in place I get 12.6V on the FP power.
Yup, so brown to ground I show 12.65.
Is it safe to run a new ground wire and install pump?
Im sorry, Im a total newb at this.
When I connect one probe to the brown wire and the other to the + battery terminal I get 0.00. To the negative terminal I show -12.65
Mark
When I tested the voltage between the brown wire and the white/purple I got a reading of (-3.40) ... Now I'm really confused but that doesnt take much
Ok, update... I left your jumper on and ran a test ground wire to the battery and plugged the connector onto the fuel pump. It instantly came on :cool:
So it seems like I have a bad ground...
Ohms reading was 1.0 when at the 200 level.
There is NO continuity to ground, I ran that back all the way to the battery just to be sure.
OK... now Im really confused....
I put on the jumper and still no power to the FP.
I tested the continuity off the white/purple wire expecting there to be none... but wow, there was continuity!...
Sorry, I somehow missed that, I'll give that a try and report back.