Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 40

Thread: 3.0l bottom end/2.8 heads and valvetrain question

  1. #1
    Junior Member Barney10186's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2014

    Location:  Nowhere Ohio

    Posts:    28

    My VIN:    SCEDT26TXCD010186

    3.0l bottom end/2.8 heads and valvetrain question

    Hey all got a question here. was thinkin bout sandwiching a 3.0 bottom end in the D, but retaining the stock heads while doing so. with the 3.0 even fire bottom end, what type of valvetrain gear issues will i be up against? can i use the odd cams? the even 3.0s? Idk you all tell me....lol. someone school me here

  2. #2
    Senior Member BABIS's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2012

    Posts:    457

    My VIN:    4502

    Quote Originally Posted by Barney10186 View Post
    Hey all got a question here. was thinkin bout sandwiching a 3.0 bottom end in the D, but retaining the stock heads while doing so. with the 3.0 even fire bottom end, what type of valvetrain gear issues will i be up against? can i use the odd cams? the even 3.0s? Idk you all tell me....lol. someone school me here
    if you use the 2.8 heads you have to use even the 2.8 liners (and pistons) ..
    VIN 4502

  3. #3
    Senior Member DMCVegas's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2011

    Location:  Las Vegas

    Posts:    2,426

    My VIN:    6585

    Club(s):   (DOA) (DCUK)

    Crank also has to be matched to cams since 3.0 is even-fire, and 2.8 is odd. 3.0 also does not have a provision for an adjustable distributor on it's cams.
    Robert

    Wake me when hockey season returns...

  4. #4
    Junior Member Barney10186's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2014

    Location:  Nowhere Ohio

    Posts:    28

    My VIN:    SCEDT26TXCD010186

    this thread is what started it all...


  5. #5
    Senior Member Josh's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2013

    Location:  SK, Canada

    Posts:    1,735

    My VIN:    11408

    Club(s):   (TXDMC)

    it is my understanding if you want to make it even fire (complete 3.0 bottom end) you need to install the 3.0 cams in the 2.8 heads. However the drives side cam does not have a gear for the distributor. I have heard of a guy grafting this gear to a 3.0 crank and he had a k jet 3.0! Another way you can go is just drop in the entire 3.0 as is and drill out the head and graft the cam gear on the cam and install the 2.8 distributor. If you want to use your carb maniforld it needs intake spacers (1/2" I think) in the head intake ports. EIther way some work is involved. the 3.0 is a "dumb" distributor as it has no rpm output or vacuum advance. Another thing you could do is leave everything as is and run an ignition computer. You could run coil pack ignition and install a ford edis unit for spark management. Then plunk your carb on top. Would be a weird setup but I think it could work.

    edit: edis will run at 10btdc all the time without any computer. So it will start but run like shit. and drive like shit. It needs a computer to tell it to advance the spark. Still i think this method would be cool, never done before.
    Last edited by Josh; 07-01-2014 at 12:30 PM.

  6. #6
    Junior Member Barney10186's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2014

    Location:  Nowhere Ohio

    Posts:    28

    My VIN:    SCEDT26TXCD010186

    Quote Originally Posted by Josh View Post
    it is my understanding if you want to make it even fire (complete 3.0 bottom end) you need to install the 3.0 cams in the 2.8 heads. However the drives side cam does not have a gear for the distributor. I have heard of a guy grafting this gear to a 3.0 crank and he had a k jet 3.0! Another way you can go is just drop in the entire 3.0 as is and drill out the head and graft the cam gear on the cam and install the 2.8 distributor. If you want to use your carb maniforld it needs intake spacers (1/2" I think) in the head intake ports. EIther way some work is involved. the 3.0 is a "dumb" distributor as it has no rpm output or vacuum advance. Another thing you could do is leave everything as is and run an ignition computer. You could run coil pack ignition and install a ford edis unit for spark management. Then plunk your carb on top. Would be a weird setup but I think it could work.

    edit: edis will run at 10btdc all the time without any computer. So it will start but run like shit. and drive like shit. It needs a computer to tell it to advance the spark. Still i think this method would be cool, never done before.
    Interesting, wonder if the odd fire crank will work with the 3.0 crankcase? Anyone done that one? although josh i like the idea of just running the new ignition side like you said to avoid all the cam gear nonsense. im trying to find the most practicle combination of parts that jive together. i feel like mix-n-matching.
    Last edited by Barney10186; 07-01-2014 at 12:45 PM.

  7. #7
    Custom DeLorean Builder Rich W's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Chicagoland area

    Posts:    1,678

    My VIN:    A few, by name... DeLorean Monster Truck, DeLorean Roadster, DeLorean Hovercraft, DeLorean Limo

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Barney10186 View Post
    Interesting, wonder if the odd fire crank will work with the 3.0 crankcase? Anyone done that one?
    Yep, I have one of those ... but I have not tried firing it up yet. Maybe later this year?

    I purchased the 3.0L/2.8L "hybrid" engine from Marty Maier a few years ago. Marty built the engine based on a new crate 3.0L engine.

  8. #8
    Junior Member Barney10186's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2014

    Location:  Nowhere Ohio

    Posts:    28

    My VIN:    SCEDT26TXCD010186

    Quote Originally Posted by Rich W View Post
    Yep, I have one of those ... but I have not tried firing it up yet. Maybe later this year?

    I purchased the 3.0L/2.8L "hybrid" engine from Marty Maier a few years ago. Marty built the engine based on a new crate 3.0L engine.
    awesome rich! you know what specific internals etc your hybrid consists of?

  9. #9
    Custom DeLorean Builder Rich W's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Chicagoland area

    Posts:    1,678

    My VIN:    A few, by name... DeLorean Monster Truck, DeLorean Roadster, DeLorean Hovercraft, DeLorean Limo

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Barney10186 View Post
    awesome rich! you know what specific internals etc your hybrid consists of?
    I need to check with Marty on the specifics. The engine was purchased as part of a package deal from Marty Maier.

  10. #10
    Senior Member DMCVegas's Avatar
    Join Date:  Oct 2011

    Location:  Las Vegas

    Posts:    2,426

    My VIN:    6585

    Club(s):   (DOA) (DCUK)

    I have seen that conversion of moving the distributor gear over to a 3.0 cam. that is tons, and tons of work and not really worth it.

    Now the one thing that I am honestly not sure of, and this is what I would ask someone who has a cracked one of these open would be the following:

    1. Are 3.0L Cylinders compatible with 2.8L Heads.
    2. Are 3.0L Connecting Rods Compatible with the 2.8L Crankshaft?
    3. Is the 2.8L Crankshaft compatible with the 3.0L Upper Crankcase?


    I don't see what the problem with the pistons and cylinder heads would be. The displacement is marginal, but it's there. The real question would be if you had to swap those connecting rods out, and if the crank is a direct swap.

    If the cranks cannot be swapped between blocks, that's no big deal. What you would do is use the 2.8L block in it's entirety. Then just swap over the 3.0L Pistons, Sleeves, and Crankshafts. From there you just have to see if the Connecting Rods on the 3.0L Pistons will connect to the 2.8L Crank. If not, you're gonna have to swap them out. If yes, no big deal.

    You should still be able to get a Carb Conversion kit from over in the UK which includes the manifold and everything. It's meant for the 2.8L Alpine engine.

    Off the top of my head, I don't know what the rod lengths, pistons sizes, or even the displacement of the cylinder heads are between the engines. So when swapping heads, I'm not sure what the final displacement or compression ratios will be though. Such a conversion should be around $2,000 or so to complete. That however is just the start. Really it should be a bit higher because you're going to want to port and polish those heads up and install some performance cams to extract even more power. Which depending would probably be another $3,000 or so. That still doesn't even figure in a proper exhaust either. But in the end I don't know what the gains would be to tell you if it would even be worth it compared to the cost. When you start looking at the work that has to be done, and the price of parts, DMCH's Stage II engine upgrade really does show itself as an honest price. The only difference in between is the labor.

    The 3.0L engines have been around for about 26-17 years or so. I would think that if there were such an easy conversion to build the engine, someone would have figured it out by now and we'd probably all have it in our cars. Not that I'm trying to discourage you, but hey, I'd say to explore it more and see what you can do.
    Robert

    Wake me when hockey season returns...

Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •