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Thread: 3.0l bottom end/2.8 heads and valvetrain question

  1. #11
    Junior Member Barney10186's Avatar
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    any information you can provide me will be priceless! really looking forward to getting a gameplan for hybrid build

  2. #12
    President, DeLorean Industries
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    Location:  CLE/PHX

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    My VIN:    5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538

    Our twin turbo uses a 3.0 bottom end, 2.8 pistons, 2.8 heads, 3.0 cams, 2.7 rockers.
    www.deloreanindustries.com Every Detail Matters

  3. #13
    Junior Member Barney10186's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barney10186 View Post
    any information you can provide me will be priceless! really looking forward to getting a gameplan for hybrid build
    ive been asking myself all these same questions! and yeah if i can do somethin crazy like keep the odd cams/crank ill just shave 1mm off the heads, throw flat tops in it and get eds fast cams made with the retard for the shaved head so valve timing stays sane. i want more displacement, compression, and air in/out. no preference of odd or even fire, but massive head proting and valve work will be done by me, plus ill be fabbing headers and exhaust as well. oh and fyi 10186 is running a Peugeot 604 intake with motorcraft 2100 like a boss.

  4. #14
    Junior Member Barney10186's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barney10186 View Post
    ive been asking myself all these same questions! and yeah if i can do somethin crazy like keep the odd cams/crank ill just shave 1mm off the heads, throw flat tops in it and get eds fast cams made with the retard for the shaved head so valve timing stays sane. i want more displacement, compression, and air in/out. no preference of odd or even fire, but massive head proting and valve work will be done by me, plus ill be fabbing headers and exhaust as well. oh and fyi 10186 is running a Peugeot 604 intake with motorcraft 2100 like a boss.
    was wondering when Josh would come across this one! lol. its joshs fault he had that oh so tempting display of wonderful delorean performance parts laid out at dcs. cams caught my eye josh! actually id much rather source my parts from dpi. stuffs amazing
    Last edited by Barney10186; 07-01-2014 at 01:38 PM.

  5. #15
    Senior Member DMCVegas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Barney10186 View Post
    ive been asking myself all these same questions! and yeah if i can do somethin crazy like keep the odd cams/crank ill just shave 1mm off the heads...
    Double-check on that one, but I don't believe you'll be able to. At least not from what I've heard. The problem is that the cams are mounted in the heads, not the block, connected with lifters to the valves. As such when you pull the head closer to the block, you lengthen the amount of slack in the timing chain. To get rid of that slack the chain gets pulled down by the tensioner, and the gear's timing will be off. By the same token I've also heard of at least one owner who did this and said they had no problems, but again, it's not optimal.

    Now if you have cams that are cut specifically for this, that would be great. But what we really need is an adjustable pulley.
    Robert

    People they come together, people they fall apart...

  6. #16
    EFI DeLorean dmc6960's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DMCVegas View Post
    Double-check on that one, but I don't believe you'll be able to. At least not from what I've heard. The problem is that the cams are mounted in the heads, not the block, connected with lifters to the valves. As such when you pull the head closer to the block, you lengthen the amount of slack in the timing chain. To get rid of that slack the chain gets pulled down by the tensioner, and the gear's timing will be off. By the same token I've also heard of at least one owner who did this and said they had no problems, but again, it's not optimal.

    Now if you have cams that are cut specifically for this, that would be great. But what we really need is an adjustable pulley.
    Yes you can do it with a caveat. Read the whole post again and you'll see mention of using Ed's cams, which are reground with the timing adjusted for a 1mm shave. I have this in my engine and to my knowledge so does someone in NJ. I'm sure there is more by now, I did mine in 2009. 35k+ miles later engine is still running strong.
    Jim Reeve
    DMC6960

    D-Status: - Getting some Spring exercise

  7. #17
    Senior Member DMCVegas's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmc6960 View Post
    Yes you can do it with a caveat. Read the whole post again and you'll see mention of using Ed's cams, which are reground with the timing adjusted for a 1mm shave. I have this in my engine and to my knowledge so does someone in NJ. I'm sure there is more by now, I did mine in 2009. 35k+ miles later engine is still running strong.
    4sPnZbx.jpg
    Robert

    People they come together, people they fall apart...

  8. #18
    Junior Member Barney10186's Avatar
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    Now thats what i like to hear! here we go...........

  9. #19
    Senior Member
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    Club(s):   (PNDC)

    My Frankenstein engine

    Quote Originally Posted by Barney10186 View Post
    Hey all got a question here. was thinkin bout sandwiching a 3.0 bottom end in the D, but retaining the stock heads while doing so. with the 3.0 even fire bottom end, what type of valvetrain gear issues will i be up against? can i use the odd cams? the even 3.0s? Idk you all tell me....lol. someone school me here
    I highly DO NOT recommend it but if you are doing all the work yourself then all you have to lose is your time and money.
    I have been driving the set-up you describe (3.0 liter bottom end with the original DeLorean 2.8 liter heads and intake) for thirteen (13) years. Yes, thirteen years. I mentioned the engine transformation and the name of the shop that did the combining of two engines into one thirteen years ago on the DML (DeLorean Mailing List) but the links I had were no longer of any good.
    I have put on about 100,000 miles on this modified engine in the past thirteen years.

    The camshafts are a higher lift cam and who made them or where they came from before being installed in my Frankenstein engine I have no idea. The camshaft for cylinders 4,5,6 had to have a special gear ground onto it to make it work for this even fire engine set-up.
    I have to use a MAHLE OC 142 oil filter.
    My fuel injectors are Bosch 0437502013.
    My fuel distributor is from some thing? It’s a Bosch unit and has the numbers on the exterior label 0 438 100 105.
    My electrical distributor cap and the rotor, which is for an even fire engine, came from somewhere? I lost that information but there is a number on the exterior of the cap. The cap is not at all easy to get to so I don’t know If I will ever look for that number. The base of the cap has to be grounded off to expose the single tab that sticks downward. That tab sits in the slot of the metal housing on top of the electrical distributor. A steel hose clamp holds the base of the cap so it remains centered on top of the distributor or the cap will not stay exactly where it should since the base of the cap has been ground off.
    The starter motor came from somewhere and I know not where. My starter motor makes a sound unlike any other DeLoreans with the original equipment.
    A small steel sleeve was added around the crankshaft because the front main seal wasn’t making a perfect seal and oil was slowly escaping and being thrown around by the main pulley wheel.
    The spark plug wires and spark plugs with the single electrode are the same that everyone uses in their original equipment 2.8 liter engine.
    The v-shaped timing chain cover is from the original DeLorean 2.8 liter engine and it was leaking oil many years after the transformation so my friends at DMC Northwest removed it and resealed it.
    I always, ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS had premature detonation, pinging, knocking especially during the hottest days of summer. And I ALWAYS used 92-octane fuel from either Chevron, Texaco, 76, Shell. An additive from Red Line called Complete Fuel System Cleaner always helped a little. The approximate compression ratio is now 10.1 to 1 thus requiring premium unleaded all day every day.

    Fast forward to September 2013.
    After all those years I finally had an engine overheat condition and continued to add coolant while I drove the DeLorean to work. I made an appointment with DMC Northwest and limped there early in the morning of course while overheating in traffic. I would pull over rest a while then add more coolant then keep on driving.
    It was found the head gasket was allowing coolant into cylinder number 3 and washing the cylinder out real good!!! The top of the piston inside cylinder number 3 was like brand new. DMC Northwest had to remove both heads and have them checked by another shop for any warping or cracking. Fortunately for me there was no warping or cracking found.
    Then they found that the sprocket on the end of the camshaft for cylinders 1,2,3 was incorrect.
    It was impossible to properly time the engine when both the left and right banks of valves were not opening and closing at the proper time!!!
    No wonder I ALWAYS had premature detonation, pinging, knocking especially during the hottest days of summer.
    DMC Northwest did some research and came up with a better sprocket for the camshaft over cylinders 1,2,3. And, now the pinging is virtually gone.

    Fast forward to October 2013.
    OOPS THE ENGINE OVERHEATED AGAIN and I limped into DMC Northwest and paid the bill for their service on November 4, 2013.
    This time it was coolant found in the oil pan.
    The engine had to be raised slightly to remove the oil pan to locate the leaking source.
    The source confirmed to be leaking cylinder liner base seals, particularly #3, but #1 and #2 to a lesser extent.
    Next the head for cylinders 1,2,3 had to be removed again. And, the pistons, connecting rods and cylinder liners 1,2,3 had to be removed from the engine block to install brand new cylinder liner base seals. The original base seals were pitted and corroded so no wonder they couldn’t provide a good seal. The base seals are steel by the way.

    I got so sick of these very expensive engine repairs that I finally bought another vehicle as a daily driver in January 2014. I still have the D though and it runs just fine.
    Mark Vanyo
    Links to DeLorean related web sites!
    http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?19...s-Part-I-of-II.

  10. #20
    Junior Member Barney10186's Avatar
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    monaco.jpgwow what an interesting combo of stuff eh? welp i picked up a 1991 dodge monaco today with 123k for 375$. runs great! drove it home. so im gonna get into it one day here. kinda hate to dismantle it cuz the car actually is a good car. ac works n all! has anyone tried to use the oddfire 2.8 crank with the odd setup on a 3.0 block?
    Last edited by Barney10186; 07-07-2014 at 04:51 PM.

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