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Thread: MS conversion questions!

  1. #1
    Senior Member BABIS's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2012

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    MS conversion questions!

    Hello guys,

    I have a couple of questions for all you guys with a good running MS conversion.
    I also have an efi converted Delorean, I have a later even firing 2.8 prv engine which is very similar to the US 3.0, it shares the same air intake.
    I started using the original Renix ECU and the renault wiring harness, but then I decided to try a Megasquirt 2 ECU to have full control on the map. I used an adaptor to connect the renault harness to the the Megasquirt, but now I would like to buy a Megasquirt harness to have future references to know what all the wires are (IIRC in the MS manuals there are described all the colours of the harness).
    and, I would like to create 2 indipendet harness in the engine bay, one for the MS and one for all the other electrical things (otterstat, alternator, starter and so on). I would like to mantain the original wiring colours always for future references.
    I still have my original engine harness. Is it possible to open it and rerouting it the engine bay? there is also the chance to redone it completely using original colours wirings from britishwirings.com, but there are more costs and efforts involved.

    currently I'm having some problems to get a clear RPM signal, I read here that is quite a common problem. I'm also using this chip http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/l...hip-p-320.html

    with the Renault ECU I used a 3 wires idle control valve similar to the Delorean one, but I read that they are very difficult to use with the MS so I think I will use one of the IAC valve native to the MS along with this adapter http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/c...alve-p-69.html
    one barb is to be connected over the throttle plate the other under the throttle plate, right?

    and, is possible to have a "check engine" signal with the MS? I would like to have the "lambda" light showing if there is a faulty sensor. I'm also interested in adding an anti knock sensor..

    Best regards
    VIN 4502

  2. #2
    Back to the Omnipresent! Spittybug's Avatar
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    Is it possible to open it and rerouting it the engine bay?
    Too vague..... what are you asking? Unwrapping the harness is sticky, but not hard to do.

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    one barb is to be connected over the throttle plate the other under the throttle plate, right?
    The IAC valve mounts in the hole in the end and the two threaded/barbed nipples go on hoses that need to connect on either side of the butterfly valves. I don't recall the stock throttle body having these connection points however since the stock IAC delivered air far downstream of the throttle plates. Basically one of the ports needs to receive clean air (tap the airbox or just add a small filter on one end of the hose, and the other needs to get into the manifold, either via the same hole cast in the top of the manifold where the stock IAC dumped in, or easier, into the W pipe by taking off the little plate that is bolted down. Make sure you plug the hole in the manifold - we found an American quarter is exactly the right size to glue in there.


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     is possible to have a "check engine" signal with the MS?
    Sort of. MS can send an output signal (up to 1 amp if I recall) under a given circumstance. For example, I have mine set to activate a buzzer if my temperature goes higher than X degrees. While I was tuning the car, I used the same feature to sound the buzzer if my AFR went too high so that I could immediately tell under what driving circumstances it would happen without having to look at the tables while driving.
    Owen
    Tour the country and visit breweries through the eyes of our two puppy dogs. http://www.twobrewdogs.com
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  3. #3
    Senior Member BABIS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spittybug View Post
    Too vague..... what are you asking? Unwrapping the harness is sticky, but not hard to do.
    yes this is what I thought, I'm planning to remove all the wires I don't need anymore and reroute the wires in use in a better way, using nylon braided sleeves..

    Quote Originally Posted by Spittybug View Post
    The IAC valve mounts in the hole in the end and the two threaded/barbed nipples go on hoses that need to connect on either side of the butterfly valves. I don't recall the stock throttle body having these connection points however since the stock IAC delivered air far downstream of the throttle plates. Basically one of the ports needs to receive clean air (tap the airbox or just add a small filter on one end of the hose, and the other needs to get into the manifold, either via the same hole cast in the top of the manifold where the stock IAC dumped in, or easier, into the W pipe by taking off the little plate that is bolted down. Make sure you plug the hole in the manifold - we found an American quarter is exactly the right size to glue in there.
    I will use 3.0 throttle body and manifold, and I need to do a couple of weldings so the IAC will be placed accordingly..

    Quote Originally Posted by Spittybug View Post
    Sort of. MS can send an output signal (up to 1 amp if I recall) under a given circumstance. For example, I have mine set to activate a buzzer if my temperature goes higher than X degrees. While I was tuning the car, I used the same feature to sound the buzzer if my AFR went too high so that I could immediately tell under what driving circumstances it would happen without having to look at the tables while driving.
    nice to know!
    VIN 4502

  4. #4
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

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    My VIN:    03572

    The OEM harness the wires are pretty brittle from the insulation age. You would probably want to shorten or lengthen the wires anyway. Just make up your own document with new colors if you don't buy the original color wire.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  5. #5
    Senior Member BABIS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    The OEM harness the wires are pretty brittle from the insulation age. You would probably want to shorten or lengthen the wires anyway. Just make up your own document with new colors if you don't buy the original color wire.
    Thanks for the thoughts Dave, I just want to keep original colours for future references...
    VIN 4502

  6. #6
    Senior Member AdmiralSenn's Avatar
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    Regarding the RPM noise, where are you getting your RPM input from? I had endless problems with noise until I switched to the wires from the distributor's internal VR sensor, spliced from within the car behind the driver's seat. I also have a shielded coil-to-distributor cap wire but I don't know if it really helped.

    You're on the right track with the VR circuit, maybe before anything else you should try adjusting the VR potentiometers on the MS mainboard?
    Aka Adam S, aka Adam Wright
    1981 DMC-12 #3416, mothballed in preparation for motor swap
    2006 Volvo S60R

  7. #7
    Senior Member BABIS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BABIS View Post
    and, is possible to have a "check engine" signal with the MS?
    Quote Originally Posted by Spittybug View Post
    MS can send an output signal (up to 1 amp if I recall) under a given circumstance. For example, I have mine set to activate a buzzer if my temperature goes higher than X degrees. While I was tuning the car, I used the same feature to sound the buzzer if my AFR went too high so that I could immediately tell under what driving circumstances it would happen without having to look at the tables while driving.

    I found this interesting article about the "check engine light" but I guess this is feasible only with the MS3, or not? http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/cel.html
    VIN 4502

  8. #8
    Back to the Omnipresent! Spittybug's Avatar
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    Nice feature. I'm running MS2e, not MS3. Looks like they just continue to improve things. One day I'll get a MS3 box and keep the MS2 as a spare..............too many other projects to worry about it now though.
    Owen
    Tour the country and visit breweries through the eyes of our two puppy dogs. http://www.twobrewdogs.com
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  9. #9
    Senior Member BABIS's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2012

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    Quote Originally Posted by AdmiralSenn View Post
    Regarding the RPM noise, where are you getting your RPM input from?
    You're on the right track with the VR circuit, maybe before anything else you should try adjusting the VR potentiometers on the MS mainboard?
    I will check the RPM input.

    anyway, maybe this will help? http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/z...ers-p-378.html
    VIN 4502

  10. #10
    Senior Member BABIS's Avatar
    Join Date:  Sep 2012

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    My VIN:    4502

    Hi guys!

    I have a bunch of new questions for you. As I said before I am converting my previous efi setup (original Renault renix) to the Megasquirt and I am planning the various stages of this conversion.

    Iíve read almost every efi thread from this forum and I found some interesting subjects to talk about.

    1) Iím replacing the clt and iat sensors with the ones MS specific. I have a couple of ideas about the clt sensor placing: I have a new Y pipe without threads (itís not the delorean one, itís from an earlier prv) and I can tap it for the 3/8Ē sensor, or I can buy a M18 to 3/8Ē adaptor to be placed on the thermotime switch hole in the wp ; what do you think is the best place?

    2) I know that for a good working efi itís all about good power sources and good grounds; Iím gonna follow this wiring scheme http://www.msextra.com/doc/general/p...3-external.png . about the various sensors: in this scheme there is written that pins 1,2,7,19 are all good for sensor grounding (iat, clt, tps, crank) ; should I ground them all on the same pin or should I deserve one ground pin for each sensors?

    3) Iíve read that the best thing to do is to feed the ecu and the injectors and the fuel pump with separate power sources (directly from battery) and dedicated relays; I will use a Innovate LC-2 and Iíve read that it needs a switched power source, do you think itís worth to wire it up a dedicated relay like described here? http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...C-2_Manual.pdf the LC-2 ground should be connected to a MS pin ground or to the main grounding point?

    4) Do you think I should wire the MS grounds (and other grounds..) directly to the battery or I can wire them on a good spot of the frame? I will install also Hervey double ground wires.. I guess I will wire there also the coil module ground.

    5) LC-2 gauge: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...ual%28B%29.pdf
    I guess I can wire it in the same ground of the LC-2 and the same switched source. About the signal wires from the LC-2, the gauge only works with a wide band signal but I want to use the wide band signal for the ecu. Is it possible to reprogram both the signal from the LC-2 to be wide band?

    6) I will use this knock sensor module http://www.viatrack.ca/KnockMS/KnockMS.PDF but I didnít understand if it must be wired on a switched source or just from the battery (fused?). I guess the ground will go to the main grounding point (battery)


    Thanks in advance!
    VIN 4502

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