Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,326
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 636
My VIN: 4608- sold 4885- current
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 636
My VIN: 4608- sold 4885- current
Location: West Sayville, N.Y.
Posts: 1,350
My VIN: 005058 000927
Club(s): (AZ-D) (DMA) (DOA) (DCUK)
Hi Alex,
Winzer and Wurth both sell rubber care products that work the best for this purpose but they only sell to the trades if I'm not mistaken. We carry it so you could order it from us if you'd like to try it.
Your problems are more than a shot of lubricant will completely solve if you're breaking door handles from the binding you're having. Solving the door fit issues on such cars is a somewhat complicated process that involves grinding and recontouring the body edges where the surround seals rest on the body. It requires grinding equipment and a good quality respirator to do it safely. It also requires some real skill with a die grinder to avoid doing more harm than good and for these reasons I've decided it's best not to post a "how to" here lest some people get themselves in trouble with the procedure. After the grinding process the door strikers often need to be reshimed and adjusted to obtain the maximum benefits. All of this is best left to experienced hands.
Rob Grady
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 636
My VIN: 4608- sold 4885- current
The old seals closed beautifully. Sad face.
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 636
My VIN: 4608- sold 4885- current
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
Alex, where is your start/finish line with the door seals? Are you tying the two ends together at about where the door lights plungers are?
You might want to release the new door seal completely along the lower side from that starting/ending point back to where this spot is you are struggling with in the photo. It looks like you might not have given yourself enough slack for it to sit down on the lip of the fiberglass. To me it looks like it's getting pulled off the lip by the portion below it. Basically shift everything a small amount towards that problem area so you have a bit more seal to play with. You want there to be excess material to compress in the corners as you go around and not too little such that it needs to stretch. If there's too little, it'll pull itself away from the lip.
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 636
My VIN: 4608- sold 4885- current
Posts: 4,808
My VIN: 3937
Another quick check you can do is see that your doors open and close without interference while you have the door seal completely removed. That's often more of a check while you're doing striker pin/door alignments, but if you already have your seals off (and once your door handles are back together) give it a go and you might notice a problem area more easily. Maybe, maybe not. Simple thing to check though.
Sept. 81, auto, black interior