How To: Fix a broken Louver

[mburshtain]

Hi Guys,
My Louver is cracked and I am not sure what should be the next steps to get it fixed.
Did anyone did some fiberglass work on his louver before? any written guides or advice is available?
Is there any way to glue it?
Should I buy the LOUVRE BRACE?

I am attaching 2 pictures which shows the damage.

photo 2 (4).jpgphoto 1 (4).jpg

[skill]

Hey there mburshtain!

Definitely, your louver is fixable. Here's the approach i'd take to recondition the louver. See photos, as I had to fix one, two not too long ago, and are currently working finishing a How To video on fiberglass louver repair for us... the video should be out in about a month from now... I just haven't got around to it as other things are in the way... See the photos as to the steps I took on repairing a louver.

Supplies used and sources;

1 Fiberglass Resin by Evercoat (Summit Racing online website),
1 or 2 Visegrips, (Harborfreight),
Cardboard; Make cardboard strips to use as needed,
1 wood block or wood strip or wood paint mixer stick is fine to use,
1-3 60 Grit Sand Paper sheets by 3M (Autozone or autoparts store that carries autobody repair supplies),
1 Icing, Polyester putty and hardener (Summit Racing online website),
1-3 320 Grit Sand Paper sheets by 3M (Autozone or autoparts store that carries autobody repair supplies),
1 roll of blue painter's tape (Wallymart),
1 gallon acetone (Wallymart),
1 weight (10-15lbs),
1 Pack of fiberglass sheets (Summit Racing online website),
1 Bondo spreader, and
1 pair of work-gloves!

After reviewing your louver's condition, I'd attempt this approach on repairing the unit...

First, outline pre-masking with blue painter's tape. Mask the area you are going to work on and protect the good area with the blue tape so the area you gonna work on is confined.

With work gloves on, carefully use the 60 grit sandpaper and sand down the broken area where it snapped. Don't aggressively sand the area... only sand down until the area until the fiberglass particles turn into a white powdery like dust... you can get into the cracks and area with possibly a paint mix stick like piece of wood that is thin enough to get into that area moving in and of the area side to side.

Next, wipe the area you sanded down w/ acetone. Let it dry.

At the looks of the area of concern, your louver snapped at the spine. Here's where I'd find a weight (Weightlifting weights), like a nice 10 and or 15 pound weight to be used to push down the area after you apply the fiberglass resin.

Next step, after you've sanded down the damaged area... mix a few drops of the fiberglass hardener with the fiberglass resin, it's good to mix up both these together on a flat piece of cardboard and spread and mix, and spread and mix... the resin w/ the hardener will start to turn into a cloudy dark yellow and that is your time to apply it over the fiberglass sheets you pre-cut to fit in and 1-2 layers of fiberglass cover the area of concern. Apply within the cracks/broken joint (the louvers' spine) together!

Next step, I'd give it a day to harden. I know, other's would just jump right at it after they touch the resin and think it's okay to start sanding down... I'd let hardener do its job for one whole day and go relax! Remember, not to apply too much and pass the area where you blue taped off because you don't want to do too much work here! Just apply only the area where the crack is at! After you've applied the resin in the area, place the heavy weights over the area of concern. Use cardboard strips and clamp-vise grip down the area if you can bring the area together. Not sure if in this case you will use the vise grips to mend this louver's spine, but if you can get it to clamp the two separated part together, you've solved it and it should bond nicely! See my pics on how I vised down a broken flappy fiberglass part together for bonding.

(Remove vise grips, cardboard strips and weights if used.)

Next step, a day has passed... It's time to sand down with a flat piece of wood... Use the 60 grit sandpaper. Carefully sand down the area where the fiberglass resin has hardened. While you are sanding away, blow off the resin particles as you go. Block sand it matching the contour and lines of the louvers' design.

Next step, lightly apply the Icing with a Bondo spreader... only spread over the area you blocked off sanding. Let the Icing cure/ harden for another full day. Again, patience, no need to start sanding it off if you feel it's hardened... just don't mess with it, let it do its job and cure.

Last, block sand off with 3M's 320 grit the area with a painter's mix paint stick. Remove blue tape.

As for buying the stainless steel brace for the Louver's spine.... Well, I think it's a great idea to get one for the future after it has been repaired. I don't own one yet... I'm waiting for the right one I don't have to screw into the spine because that is the area that bares a lot of the ups and downs, side to side and is the center and strongest part on this unit.

Any questions, let me know as I'm here to help you out as best as I can!

For final finish on Louver Repair, Paint & Sanding, see my post about 712's Louvers here; http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?24...367#post147367

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[mburshtain]

Hey Skill,
Thank you so much for your detailed explanation!
Very much appreciated, I will give it a shot next week and will keep you updated.

[skill]

Oh, no worries! I gave this repair a bit more thought... While you apply the fiberglass resin during it hardens... You can tie it down with a strap between the vents. Take the straps off after the day is past and start the sanding.

Sent from my SGH-M919 using Tapatalk

[Rich_NYS]

Looks good Brian...lotta helpful info there.

I saw a repair on one of the car shows where the guy mentioned adding black dye. When I repaired the crack on the side of my louvre I didn't add any black to the resin but the next time I will. It really helps to see where more sanding is needed.

[skill]

Looks good Brian...lotta helpful info there.

I saw a repair on one of the car shows where the guy mentioned adding black dye. When I repaired the crack on the side of my louvre I didn't add any black to the resin but the next time I will. It really helps to see where more sanding is needed.

Thanks Rich! Interesting, using the dye... I guess mixing in some black dye before stirring it up w/ the hardener/ catalyst, possibly? I like, I like... cool, cool! I'll have to adopt that step in my next fixin'

[Szabi]

My louvre is not broken but the black paint looks worn and unevenly faded. Also, in some smaller patches (2-3 mm diameter) the paint is missing and the white fiber glass (?) material is visible. Would you remove the paint first, or just fill in where the paint is missing and re-paint the whole louvre? Would you remove the 2 grills before that? I guess it shouldn`t be a heat resistant paint (?).

[Kenny_Z]

My louvre is not broken but the black paint looks worn and unevenly faded. Also, in some smaller patches (2-3 mm diameter) the paint is missing and the white fiber glass (?) material is visible. Would you remove the paint first, or just fill in where the paint is missing and re-paint the whole louvre? Would you remove the 2 grills before that? I guess it shouldn`t be a heat resistant paint (?).

When I painted my louvers and engine cover after a repair job I primed them first and then painted with SEM trim black paint. It's not heat resistant but it doesn't need to be. There isn't enough direct heat on those parts to warrant high heat paint.

[skill]

My louvre is not broken but the black paint looks worn and unevenly faded. Also, in some smaller patches (2-3 mm diameter) the paint is missing and the white fiber glass (?) material is visible. Would you remove the paint first, or just fill in where the paint is missing and re-paint the whole louvre? Would you remove the 2 grills before that? I guess it shouldn`t be a heat resistant paint (?).

No need to remove the 2 grills. I kept them both on. I used a 3M sponge (the blue sponge and you could use any sponge that you can hand grasp) and wrapped it with 1000 or 2000 wet sand grit paper by 3M to get into the vents... I then layered the black SEM Trim paint #39143. Let dry after a good even pass and go for another layer. If you want a nice result, wet sand with 3M 5000 grit and soap and warm water for a final... do this smooth and not push on it just skim across with running water. Tape the edges so you don't get the white fiber glass to show again Good luck! ~Brian

[skill]

You can also follow these steps... Check this thread out; Send us a photo of a before and after. Feel free to post your questions and we'd be happy to help you out step by step!

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?24...367#post147367