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Thread: Just got my project DeLorean....

  1. #1
    Member PeterBiggerstaff's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jan 2013

    Location:  New Zealand

    Posts:    79

    My VIN:    10985

    Talking Just got my project DeLorean....

    Hi All,

    I posted a while back saying I was on the hunt for a 'project' DeLorean under $15,000 for importation to New Zealand, and she just arrived on Friday!

    Vin# 10985 was on the Beverly Hills Car Club website for $14k, I managed to get them down to $13K. They were very good to deal with, as were my shipping company Extreme Global.

    Rather than go though the whole list of all the issues, I have put a video up here:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQc8XTraFNY

    As you can see she's going to be a huge project, but if Dave Stragand can build Project Vixen out of all those parts, I think I can get 10985 looking fairly decent with enough time and money!

  2. #2
    Senior Member DMC-81's Avatar
    Join Date:  Apr 2014

    Location:  Florida

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    Congratulations! Welcome to ownership. The car looks like a good project.
    Dana

    1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
    Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
    2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
    2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)

  3. #3
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Nov 2013

    Location:  NYS

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    My VIN:    Formerly 10372, currently 4728

    Congratulations....now get to work! -LOL

    IMO, I think what you'll like about this project is that most of the issues will refelect a noticeable difference when sorted and it'll keep you motivated. A lot of the things I fixed on my car is "stuff you can't see," I got the most satisfaction with the things that were most noticeable.


    How does the frame look?

    Enjoy!

  4. #4
    Member PeterBiggerstaff's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jan 2013

    Location:  New Zealand

    Posts:    79

    My VIN:    10985

    Thanks Rich!

    Yeah, I'm really looking forward to doing the interior, I think this will be the easiest and most rewarding part, I will be on the hunt for a replacement binnacle though, and I know those are as rare as hens teeth..

    From what I could tell from the original photos, the frame is in good condition, with just a bit of surface rust at the front. I need to get the car on a hoist so I can see for myself and get that rust killed.

  5. #5
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Reedsburg, WI

    Posts:    3,794

    My VIN:    5180

    Club(s):   (DMWC) (DCUK)

    Congratulations on your project.

    One correction through. When you said here's where the transmission fluid goes, is actually your brake fluid reservoir/ master cylinder. Clutch fluid goes in the reservoir under the round rubber cover next to the fuel cap. The transmission is filled with gear oil via a pipe plug half way up the RH side of the transmission case.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE I, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID sealed beam style headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, Mid-State Club Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, GENUINE MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  6. #6
    Senior Member Trstno1's Avatar
    Join Date:  Aug 2014

    Location:  Anchorage, Alaska

    Posts:    694

    My VIN:    5625

    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Congratulations on your project.

    One correction through. When you said here's where the transmission fluid goes, is actually your brake fluid reservoir/ master cylinder. Clutch fluid goes in the reservoir under the round rubber cover next to the fuel cap. The transmission is filled with gear oil via a pipe plug half way up the RH side of the transmission case.
    Congrats on the new car!! Very exciting. Let us know how the restoring goes. Great video.

  7. #7
    Four fish Delorean ALEXAKOS's Avatar
    Join Date:  Feb 2013

    Location:  38.09080 N 23.8005 E

    Posts:    2,068

    My VIN:    MMMMMCMXCII

    Congrats on the arrival and enjoy the resto cause you have a loooong way

    The Beverly Hills car club usually offered overpriced project cars. The one you got seems to be his best condition yet delorean. All others were a real mess

    Water isn't coming through the doors. Your roof is corroded and needs replacement.
    Here is a nice stainless one.
    http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/produ...ucts_id=168003

    It all comes down to how your frame is. And by the looks of that top, I don't think it will look too good.

    I would say you are looking at an approximate 15k at least for it to be in a fair running mode. But we all know we don't settle for fair. We want the best for our babes so make that a 20k with all your effort ofcourse. Let the games begin.
    VIN 5992/Body 5697/Frame 6000/Grey/Manual/ALL LED/Square HALOs/SPAX/DMOCO SS shifter/Genuine MOMO steering/iPhone base/Porsche turbo 997 exhaust/K&N/ SS: f.fascia mounts, brake lines, clutch line+fuel line+tank cover+heat shields/Posi-quiet brake pads/Poly: steering rack inserts+f.sway bar bushing+radius bushing/wings-a-loft/Radius enforced tabs n bolts/turbo fans... Oh! + a BTTF on/off replica set etc (still adding)

  8. #8
    LS1 DMC Nicholas R's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

    Location:  Orlando, Florida

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    Club(s):   (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by ALEXAKOS View Post
    Water isn't coming through the doors. Your roof is corroded and needs replacement.
    Here is a nice stainless one.
    http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/produ...ucts_id=168003
    Be sure to thoroughly inspect this area and be aware of all your options before deciding to actually replace this. No one ever estimates how truly difficult these are to replace. It is by far one of the most difficult parts on the car to replace.

  9. #9
    Senior Member Patrick C's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern Michigan

    Posts:    1,007

    My VIN:    1880

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Nicholas R View Post
    No one ever estimates how truly difficult these are to replace. It is by far one of the most difficult parts on the car to replace.
    Agreed 500%
    Patrick C.
    VIN 1880
    Modifications done to my car can be seen in this video: https://youtu.be/ncMjW2pI2e4

  10. #10
    Member PeterBiggerstaff's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jan 2013

    Location:  New Zealand

    Posts:    79

    My VIN:    10985

    thanks for the feedback guys..

    The windscreen needs replaced, so it will be interesting to see what we find when its out.. A mate of mine had substantial rust in that area, which I'm expecting too.

    I have been thinking about the frame, from the photos it looks like therr is some surface rust on the front right, but apart from that it looks OK. I cant get her on a hoist until she is mobile. I can see the rear part of the frame through the engine bay and it's spotless. (had to be steam cleaned for entry).

    The wiring is a hell of a mess, it looks like some amateur mechanic has butchered most if the wiring in the engine bay. The main red lead from the battery has been cut in two, and is held together with duct tape!

    she is holding oil and water though.. I'm going to top the oil up (wont bother changing it until I know if I need to strip the engine or not), replace that main lead and see if she'll crank. I'm expecting the fuel pump not to work, again the wires all seem to be baked and brittle.

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