Angle Drive Gear Reduction Ratio?

[LordFly]

Does anyone happen to know what the gear reduction ratio of the angle drive is? I'm kinda bored and having fun drawing planetary hear systems in SolidWorks. Thought maybe I'd try and draw something moderately useful I also want to see how much abuse 3D printed gears can take

[LordFly]

That should say "planetary GEAR systems". Apparently I can't edit the first post

[Nicholas R]

I'm pretty sure there is no reduction, just change In direction. At the height of angle drive unavailability, someone plugged their speedo cable directly into the hub of the wheel and it worked ok.

[LordFly]

Oh..... Well so much for making something useful. I suppose I could make a 1:1 planetary gear, but that seems rather pointless.

I guess I could still do an angle drive just to see how plastic holds up. I don't have high expectations, just curious more than anything.

[Nicholas R]

Oh..... Well so much for making something useful. I suppose I could make a 1:1 planetary gear, but that seems rather pointless.

I guess I could still do an angle drive just to see how plastic holds up. I don't have high expectations, just curious more than anything.

Lol, a 1:1 planetary gear set wouldn't have any moving parts within the planetary gear set. You'd either be locking the planets to the sun, the sun to the ring, or the ring to the planets (depending on how your inputs and outs are setup). Planetary gear set transmissions typically work because you have several gear sets stacked, and the ratios compound. To decrease in ratio, you lock the gear sets to be 1:1, one at a time.

[Shep]

I'm fairly certain the OEM ratio is NOT 1:1 -- Hervey units are 1:1 and mamy users (like former DMCTalker Steve) report it being about 12% slower than stock, and having to do the math in their head. I don't recall the exact ratio offhand, but I believe both DMCH and DPI replacements have the OEM ratio built-in.

For what it's worth, I'm honestly not sure how durable the plastic gears would be, particularly if you're going for extruded plastic (instead of powdered plastic), which may not hold up to the high speeds and suspension. There's a reason most long-range automotive gears are metal That being said, 3d printed metal gears may actually work here. That is, if you can find a 3D printer suitable for metal!

[Nicholas R]

I can't really speak to that then. I was under the impression that the reduction that people saw when deleting the angle drive was due to the binding of the cable within the sleeve and not rotating at a constant rate. Someone will have to take theirs apart and count the teeth to know for sure.

As for printing metal, there are plenty of sites that will print in SS, bronze, even silver and gold. Typically it's laser sintered, however some use powered metal and a binder. I don't think the latter is nearly as strong. I've used imaterialise.com and shapeways.com both with good success. I prefer imaterialise because they have a better method of pricing the parts, but they're also sending the parts from Belgium so delivery is usually 2-3 weeks unless you pay for priority.

[Tomcio]

Since I have my angle drive apart I thought I could help you out a bit...

The gearing is definitely NOT 1:1. The input gear coming from the wheel has 18 teeth and the output connected to the cable has 16. This makes a ratio of 1:1.125 exactly. This means that the output shaft and cable turns faster than the input shaft. For one complete revolution of the wheel the cable will turn 1.125 times. Or for 1000 revolutions of the wheel the cable will turn 1125 times.
If you'd like to count the teeth yourself here are pictures of both gears:
Input:

2014-09-22 18.49.57.jpg

Output:

2014-09-22 18.50.12.jpg

And here's a picture of both. Notice the wear on the teeth. Oh, BTW, to all those who still believe that the gears are made of plastic - they are made of metal but this setup is made to destroy itself. The forces are huge and whoever designed this setup with the angle drive and two cables with two counters was a complete idiot.

2014-09-22 18.46.12.jpg

[chris williams]

I'm fairly certain the OEM ratio is NOT 1:1 -- Hervey units are 1:1 and mamy users (like former DMCTalker Steve) report it being about 12% slower than stock, and having to do the math in their head. I don't recall the exact ratio offhand, but I believe both DMCH and DPI replacements have the OEM ratio built-in.

Correct, just done a 400 mile round trip in mine and it does read slow 55mph reading is about 60mph in reality, I found on average about 10% slow across the range.
Chris

[Tomcio]

Correct, just done a 400 mile round trip in mine and it does read slow 55mph reading is about 60mph in reality, I found on average about 10% slow across the range.
Chris

According to the calculation the speedometer and the odometer is 12.5% slower when connected directly to the wheel.