Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Location: Happy Valley, OR
Posts: 1,709
My VIN: 4456 - Owner since March 2011
Club(s): (PNDC)
Welcome to DeLorean ownership...
The other Law of Ownership you will eventually run into states that "In the process of fixing a singular item you will inevitably accidentally break or lose of at least 2 additional items."
BTW - I don't recall... Does your factory radio work? If so there's an FM Modulator that you can connect inline to the antenna lead. It works much better than the stand alone modulators because it interrupts the antenna feed and sends the radio signal directly to the radio. I have this kit and it works pretty well. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SCOSCHE-FMMO...item53f71e4acc
If your antenna is in the rear pontoon then there's an antenna coupling location in the compartment under the parcel shelf behind the driver's seat. All you need to do is provide power and ground - also locally available and you're set.
Of course this doesn't increase the power output of the factory stereo but its a cheap and easy remedy.
Cheers
Steven Maguire
#4456
IT'S A TRAP!!!!!
Location: Middleburg Heights, OH
Posts: 1,939
Precisely why they make a good intro, not a good long-term solution. I have quite a few in my taillight wiring setup (before I really knew electronics), and am going through them to properly solder them in the coming days, now that I can successfully wield a soldering iron without burning a hole in my skin.
Although they're not all steel, are they? I'm fairly certain I have only seen a few very old ones rust on me, most of the time they're perfectly fine years later with no rust at all when broken apart (I say this on unrelated family projects, not on my DeLorean -- some dating back before I was born!). Could be mistaken though, but at least in my experience, they're a good interim solution until you have the know-how to wire it up correctly. Good call on the disclaimer though!
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 2,734
My VIN: 01643
Club(s): (DCF) (DCO) (DCUK)
I have to admit, I agree. Also, if you don't size the size of the connectors to your wire gauge, you can end up slicing through some of the wire strands inside, or have poor contact. Truthfully, nothing beats a soldered connection with heat shrink. If I'm in a situation where I have to use connectors, it's almost always crimped and soldered spade connectors, or at worst, butt splices. For testing or temporary installations I'll use wire nuts but that's only if I know it's getting removed or made permanent in the future.
Location: NYS
Posts: 2,511
My VIN: 4519
Hi, I can add my 5 cents to it. I exchanged all light bulbs in my car to LED (with the exception of the battery light and headlights). I followed this and this blog.
I think that it is always a good idea to take the load of the battery of an old car and LEDs are the way to go. But this is no cheap thing if you buy all from SuperbrightLEDs (which I did). But this is not my point in this post.
I recommend to enforce your taillight sockets for your bulbs like it is described in the lower part of the first blog I mentioned. I had to pick them up on a vacation trip to the US, because they could not source these kind of screws in Canada, and it was totally worth it. You get those screws and nuts in nearly every Radio Shack or you can order them and it is a very cheap update. Old taillight sockets have sometimes loose sockets or bad connections. These little screws will take care of that and they will hold your heavier LEDs (once you decide to do this upgrade) in place very well.
Just an idea.
- Volker Seidel -
The way I see it, if you're gonna drive around in a car, why not do it with some style?
Location: Torquay, England
Posts: 247
First spend $300 on a nice socket/drive/allen-key set and torch. Only one way to learn.
I loves my grooves!