Location: Connecticut
Posts: 102
I have the remote door launchers. Mother in-law was facinated with the car, wanted to sit in it then locked herself in much to my embarrassment and I had to pull her out from the driver's side. I CANNOT OPEN THE F-ING PASSENGER DOOR AT ALL. Please help as I have not had any issues with this mod till now. It's like the door is just jammed. The outside lever feels loose like it's not actuating anything and the remote actuation does nothing though I can hear it trying to open the door.
Location: Atlanta OTP GA
Posts: 7,084
My VIN: 2743
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCH) (DCUK) (DOC-UK)
The door is still locked. Lower the window down and rock the lock switch back and forth while pulling up on the interior door lever.
Once it is open, you will probably be taking your first trip inside the door to see what has worked loose. Stock up on masking tape.
Dermot
VIN 2743, B/A, Frame 2227, engine 2320
I don't always drive cars, but when I do, I prefer DeLoreans
http://www.will-to-live.org
No-one is to stone anyone, even, and I want to make this absolutely clear, even if they do say "carburetor"
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 102
DOOOD you're a fricken genius. That totally worked! I lubed everything up, but the door handle is weaker than it used to be. Opens great with remote door launcher, but still a little leary of the handle. Either way......you SAVED MEOriginally Posted by Dangermouse
Location: Atlanta OTP GA
Posts: 7,084
My VIN: 2743
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCH) (DCUK) (DOC-UK)
No genius here, just bitter experience.
Glad it worked out.
Sometimes passengers accidentally fiddle with stuff and it is considered rude to slap their fingers with a ruler.
If it continues to be a problem there is a "lock and latch" adjustment procedure that can be done. I think it is the resource section. It takes a few hours and you need to take the door trim off.
Dermot
VIN 2743, B/A, Frame 2227, engine 2320
I don't always drive cars, but when I do, I prefer DeLoreans
http://www.will-to-live.org
No-one is to stone anyone, even, and I want to make this absolutely clear, even if they do say "carburetor"
Location: Sunfield, Michigan, USA
Posts: 2,444
My VIN: 1798
I've had my locks fail to disengage on a few occasions, and I'm still running the stock/OEM controller.
While this admittedly could just be coincidental and not truly relational at all, one thing that I've noticed is that you don't want to close the doors while they're locked, as doing so seems to mess up the linkages more so than closing them while they're unlocked. Lock them only after they're closed.
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,326
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Even more important, DO NOT lock the doors when they are open. That really makes a mess of things. Remind your passenger if they get in before you and close the door, not to lock it.
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Location: Sunfield, Michigan, USA
Posts: 2,444
My VIN: 1798
Precisely - that's what I meant to say
Location: Near Toronto, ON
Posts: 1,211
My VIN: Previous Owner of 5875
Club(s): (DOI)
I know all about that one! You just have to hope the passenger listens.
Previous Owner of 5875 - 1981/Grey/5-Speed/Grooved Hood
Posts: 841
Is there a way to wire the door lock module to safe mode so that it can't lock the doors if the dome lights are on?
Location: Connecticut
Posts: 102
That's a cool idea actually though I don't think there is an electrical relationship between the two systems other than the two-pronged spring door trigger. Maybe someone else can chime in on this?
I have noticed that my door handle is a bit weaker. When I took my mother-in-law (the principle offender) to the train this morning it extends almost all the way up before the latch trigger is activated and the door opens. HOWEVER, from the inside and from the remote launcher it's business as usual. I'm assuming there is no way to adjust this without taking the door trim off?
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